Toyota - Corolla :: 1997 - Moisture After Rain / Fog On Inside Of Instrument Panel Window
May 17, 2012
I have a '97 Corolla with 198K miles... this week all of a sudden, it has a strange moisture issue. It rained some on Sunday and a little Monday morning. I got in the car to go to work, and there was fog on the inside of the instrument panel window--turning on the defroster fixed it, but that's the first time I've ever had to defrost my speedometer!Monday while I was at work, it rained a lot more.
I got in the car to go home, and it was very humid inside! I turned on the air and opened the windows for a minute, and all was fine. It hasn't rained since, but due to the moisture now the car smells pretty bad at first in the morning...I have to turn air on/open windows for a minute when I get in. What would allow moisture to get inside the instrument panel??
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2005 Toyota Sienna minivan. Neighbor brings it by my house for a headlamp bulb.Rt head lamp low beam is out. Access is easy with the hood open.Rt Headlamp lens housing has moisture inside, left does not.Bulb is not broken or shatterd, it is in one piece.Before we spend $76 for an HID bulb, I have questions on the HID system. Is it that simple..just a bulb..or is there electronic controls involved that could be the culprit?Did the moisture take out the bulb in the first place ? ( halogen bulbs explode when wet ) or cause a chort in the electronics ? I already told her we need to take out the lens body and find and seal the leak and dry it out but I'm curious about the HID system.Do I dare just put 12v to the bulb ( #D2R 35w ) to test it or is that a bad idea with HID ?....( my best Ford tech to ask is off today )
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Today (1/11/2015), after I had just finished filling up the tank, I opened the car door and since the key was in the ignition the buzzer was sounding. However after 2 or 3 "beeps" it stopped and the door was still open. When I got home and pulled in the garage, I shut the car off, left the keys in the ignition and opened the door and there was no "beep," also the door ajar lamp on the instrument panel was out. I opened the trunk and the light came, then I opened passenger side door and the light came on. Does that mean that the switch on the driver's side door is bad? If so, is that a fire hazard?
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I have to repair or replace my rear window wiper/washer unit.
How do I remove the trim inside the lift gate? I saw two screws and removed them, but it's still being held in place. Is it near the indented handes? There seems to be little square plastic screw covers in there. I couldn't remove them (I was on the road) and didn't want to hack them if they weren't.
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I have a Toyota Echo 1999 1.5 VVTi. Lately the Instrument panel / Dashboard has been intermittently turning off / on while driving. Its one of those digital instrument panels.
Fuses seem good , Dimmer switch works (only when the instrument panel is illuminated!) The other lights (none digital) on the dash work such handbrake , temp etc. always work fine, just the digital Instruments are causing the issue.
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My instrument panel lights are out are they hard to change ? the truck is a 1997 f-150 4x4 /4.6 liter...
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I just finished replacing the instrument panel light bulbs on my 1997 Ranger XL, 2.3L, 2WD pickup. I wanted to share how I did this. First of all, if you never have done this before, go slow and take your time removing the dash panels as they are plastic molding and break easily. Allow yourself about an hour to complete the task. You will need smaller sized hand sockets to remove the screws. The very first thing you should do is remove the negative battery cable from the battery. This way you will not risk shorting out anything electrical as well as possibly triggering the airbag in the steering wheel column.
The key piece in starting the process is to remove the radio first and then central console panel that houses the radio. It pops out very easily by gently prying it out in the four corners. Once you get that piece out remove the screws the support the lower knee panel. In order to get that piece off you will have to remove the two screws the hold the hood release lever in place. Get under the dashboard and look up as you lay looking upward near the brake pedal. Pull the hood release lever and you will see the two gold screws. Remove them. This will free up the panel on the under side. The top side of the panel will pop out if you pry it gently on the top two corners.
Next, you will see a metal panel underneath the knee panel. Remove this metal panel as well. Now you will be able to remove the instrument cluster panel piece. There are some visible screws holding this in place, remove them and gently pry the cluster panel out. Once the cluster panel cover is out you will have to actually remove the gauge cluster itself by removing the the four screw bolts that secure it in place. After the screws are out, gently work it out of the dash slowly as you will need to disconnect three electric plug harnesses in the back.
After it is unplugged and out, on the backside of the instrument cluster you will see some round, black colored thumb screw bulb housings that house the light bulb. Just twist them and turn making sure to go in the right direction. Feel it out for the direction, I cannot remember which way it turns. The bulb housings are labeled "ILL" on the circuit overlay. I recommend you replace all the bulbs as you might not want to have to do this again in the near future. Once all the bulbs are tightly seated and installed just reverse the above process for installation. This is a fairly easy job and like I said it takes about an hour. Make sure you test the lights after finishing.
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My daughter's 2001 Corolla (3-speed transmission) is stalling in the rain. Twice in the last week it has stalled when pulling away from a stop sign. Both times she was able to restart the car and continue driving. The check engine light is not on (it works). The MAF sensor & O2 sensor (closest to the engine) were replaced last year. Would a faulty coil pack on 1 cylinder cause the car to stall?
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I have an 02 extended cab F150 and whenever it rains the rear window leaks (it doesnt have a slider, it's solid) and the half doors leak too... i sealed the back window with caulk to try and fix it and it worked for about 2 storms and then it started to leak again. The side doors leak at the seam where they meet the front doors... Should i order new seals for the windows? or is there a simpler way to do it that isnt as expensive..
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A friend of mine owns a 2002 Toyota Corolla with around 100k miles on it and it has some sporadic problems. Once in a blue moon the engine light comes on because of a misfire and seems to be around the same time it is humid and wet out (suggesting spark plug wires). However it recently sat overnight, after a slow rain, and would not even turn over the next day. The lights are not dimmed in the car but there is only a faint hum when the key is turned. What is wrong?
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My 2010 Toyota Corolla caught fire IN THE RAIN yesterday ( Jan 9, 2014) while I was driving ..... I was lucky to get out of the car before the fire came in the passenger compartment.... Trying to find out a way to see if this has happened to other Toyotas....
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I just noticed 2 rust spots on the back quarter panel in front of the wheel well on my Corolla. Then I looked on the other side, and found rust in the exact same spot. It looks like the rust is near some bolts that are holding on (what looks like) a small plastic mud flap (I'm not really sure if that is the correct technical name). Anyway, is that normal to have rust in the same spot on both sides, or is it defective? This is the only car I've ever purchased new so I was planning on keeping it, like, FOREVER. I think I've taken pretty good care of it so I plan to have it fixed. Just wondering if I should bring it to Toyota.
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I have an '89 Corolla with a very odd leak. There is what seems to be engine fluid dripping on to the brake pedal. My oil level is good- no apparent drop in levels and it's clean- coolant is good, brake fluid is good. The leak smells a bit like engine oil, is dark gray/ black and slippery.
Local mechanic says it sounds like a bad heater core. (The heat is working great however.) I recently replaced the distributor cap and wires/ air filter as it was misfiring like nobody's business. Running fine now
This is a second car I bought a year ago to leave on the east coast for summers. it's been really reliable- ice cold AC, great heat, great gas mileage/. Did start to over heat once this summer, but not bad.
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I've had an issues with the drivers side light fogging up after damp nights or rain. The dealer replaced it under a TSB but it is still happening I've checked the 3 seals (low beam, high beam, small light on top) and replaced the high beam just to make sure. I'm about to replace the HID in hopes that moisture is getting in through it but for some reason I don't think so. The passenger side is fine and Yaris parked right next to it is fine also so I don't think this is "regular"condensation.
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The passenger door key-lock on my Corolla is stuck, so the only way I can open that door is to unlock it from the inside. It had been sticking and hard to get it to work using the key in the lock for a while, but now it won't work at all. I opened the door panel and lubed everything that looked like it needs to be lubed, but that had no effect. The thing you pull to open/lock the door from the inside works a little smoother, and the inside handle that opens the door from the inside works smoother now so that's something at least. But opening a locked door from the outside with a key remains a no-go.
I tried spraying some WD 40 in there, and putting some WD 40 on the key and trying to unstick it that way, but the key-lock remains stuck in the upright position, won't budge at all by twisting/jiggling the key. Any luck unsticking a door key-lock ? Heat? Hammer? Ice? Different kind of lube? Cleanser? Swearing? Or is the only solution to replace the key-lock with a new one?
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Rear window was replaced now the defogger does not work.
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For some reason I am getting moisture inside my car. This has started to happen regularly, even when it is not raining. I have checked all of my weather stripping, all windows seal tight, all doors close tight. VW service can't find anything.
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It rained really hard yesterday. This evening I got in my car and the windows were all wet on the inside. While I believe some moisture is normal this was ridiculous. Where to check/look or what it could be. I checked the sunroof and under all the floor mats (not under the carpet; just mats)..
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I installed HID for Headlight in my Accent, after few weeks it builds moist inside the headlight. How to clean it?
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Refer the attached picture and its visible, that it has some moisture marks inside the display, its is there for long time more than 1 year, ( only on the left side block of the display). How to get rid of it?
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