Toyota - Corolla :: 1996 - Bogs Really Low Almost Wanting To Stall Out
Sep 3, 2014
I own a 1996 Toyota Corolla Manuel Transmission. Im currently experiencing an i idling issue. When i first start the car everything is pretty much ok. Until it finally heats up and reaches normal temperature. After that it boggs really low almost wanting to stall out. When I'm driving i have no issues it drives smoothly and shifts fine. This is a list of everything i have done so far:
Vacuum line cleaning
Throttle body and EGR valve cleaning as well as checked for cracks (After I cleaned this it seemed to work a little)
Tune up (wires, plugs, cap, rotor,)Changed the fuel filter
Ran lucas fuel injector cleaner
Cleaned the IAC
Not really sure what else to do.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
330,000 km on car. I drove 45 minutes when battery light came on on and car engine stalled when making a left turn (fuel light had just come on too but not empty) and restarted on own, drove 10 minutes and it stalled again, so I pulled over and restarted. Drove 45 minutes home. No issues since. Shop says 10 year old battery and alternator are testing fine, though they suggest replacing alternator as it may be going. Could there be other electrical issue since the issue is more intermittent? Car would not stall immediately if alternator failing I would think - should run on battery for a bit and not restart. Drive maybe 400km per month and it sits for 10 days at a time.
View 4 Replies
I fill my gas tank to 100% but I don't pump it again and overfill it like most people do after the pump stops. I then proceed to start the car. Initially it revs up and starts fine but when it revs back down to idle it does a rough idling (and sometimes it stalls). To get around the stall, I would restart and rev the engine to 3000 rpm for about 2 mins and it would be fine enough that I can drive away without it stalling but after a mile the rough idling stops and everything is back to normal. I replaced the PCV valve and it worked for about a year but it all came back again. I am stumped and every mechanic gives me a different reason and none of the reasons are even definite. It's one of those "lets try this and see what happens". One more thing, the car runs fine. It only happens when I pump more than 75% of the tank.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S.
When ever it is idleing and i hit the gas it bogs like its going to stall but then revs up. Difficult to get out of first because of the bog might stall it. My check engine light came on and it said rich fuel as well as oxygen sensor. Do the oxygen sensor would cause this because their are 2 and are expensive if I change it and turns out not to be the prob.
View 14 Replies
My '96 Toyota Corolla has difficulty going beyond 45 mph on the freeway, especially when the temperature gets down to zero. Normally the car shifts into 3rd gear at 45 mph. Instead it has excessive engine noise. I just keep my foot on the gas, and it goes past 50 mph, but with considerable effort. It sounds like I have the car in 2nd gear when driving at 50 mph. Eventually it "lets go" and shifts to 3rd. There is no CEL on, fuel filter replaced, transmission flushed, spark plugs checked last fall. From other issues I've read, I'm guessing it might be a bad thermostat? The car heats fine. Gas mileage is more than normal. No gas smells when I park. Once the engine warms up, I have no problems with the gears shifting. I had this problem a few years ago. Don't know what my mechanic did to fix it. My budget is pretty tight right now, so if I can fix it myself, I'd really like to do so.
View 13 Replies
I have a 1996 Toyota Corolla (5-speed, manual transmission) that has never had any problems until the past month or so. About 80% of the time now, the car does not turn over at all upon turning the key first thing in the morning. The dash light indicators (seat belt, brake, etc) come on, but that's ALL. No sounds come from the engine. I turn the key all the way back to the starting position and immediately try again, and the engine starts right up on the second try, almost every time (a couple times it has taken a third try). It will start the first time the rest of the day.
Three things to note that may or may not be related:
1. About 6 months ago, a large tree branch fell on the hood, causing some damage to both front fenders and some dings in the hood.
2. It seems to mainly occur on mornings following a rainstorm, but I can't be sure that is always the case.
3. My key is the original, and occasionally will not unlock the doors (manual locks) on the first try, but when this happens, the key will not turn at all until I mess with it for a bit.
View 2 Replies
My daughter has a 1996 Toyota Corolla that she bought last year from a personal seller who kept impeccable records on everything that was ever done to the car for maintenence, etc. My mechanic ok'd the buy. For the past few months she has been complaining of it slowing down as it warms up.It was doing this at 60mph to start and now at 45mph. It runs perfect when it is cold but once it warms up it's downhill. The mechanic is stumped. There is no code for it. The distributor seems quite new. The fuel pressure is the same when it is acting up or not. Don't know about fuel volume. Tried replacing the map sensor and another sensor that I cannot remember, to no avail. The car has 172000 miles on it. What can be the cause?
View 5 Replies
I have a Toyota Corolla 96. The check light is on. I took it to AutoZone and the guy told me everything is Ok. I looked the oil level this morning and it was low. The temperature sensor is normal and the car runs fine. My car experience is almost zero....
View 13 Replies
About a month ago I went to get into my car and it would not start. It tried to but after testing things with my neighbor there didn't seem to be consistent spark. So I bought a new distributor. Got it installed and the car worked great. Then after about a week we had a heavy rain while I was driving. The car shut off and wouldn't start. After the rain was over for about an hour I went to look over the car and it started. I thought with the heavy rain something got wet. Then things really went down hill. A day or so later when I went to start the car it didn't want to start and when it did it would misfire. Later that day the car started fine but would only run right if the engine was warmed up.
I tried covering the car completely with a tarp, no change. My cousin who is a skilled mechanic said he was pretty sure that the issue was the new distributor. So I got a used one, not wanting to pay another large amount again. Put that in the car and no change. So I pulled the plugs on the car. Plugs 1 and 4 had a heavy carbon build up on the tips with pitting in the carbon. I had had them replaced, with the wires back in October. So I replaced the plugs and coated the wires in liquid electrical tape. Car started fine like it does in the afternoons. Nest day it was raining and I went to see what the car would do. It started! I drove it that day with no issue at all. The next day I went to start the car thinking my issues where over. The issue has returned. I changed out the plugs with new ones that night. Car started fine that night. Next day the car is still not wanting to start and misfires when it does. It has been damp but covering it doesn't change anything.
View 4 Replies
I have an 87 ranger, 2.3 4cyl. 2wd 5 speed. When I start up the truck after it sits for a few hours it will idle fine but then it starts to bog down and wants to stall but after about 5 mins its fine and runs like a champ. I don't know if its a sensor or what.
View 2 Replies
I have a 1996 Toyota corolla base model,my dome light stopped working a bout a year ago,I clean the contacts and bulb with sand paper,light would then work for about 2 weeks now When I clean contacts light will only work for a few hours. Have tryed new bulbs many times does not make any difference, don't know what to do.
View 1 Replies
1996 Toyota Corolla base model 1yr ago dome lite would stop working,I then would sand contacts on dome lite and sand bulb it would then work for about 1 month now I do the same thing and lite will only work for about 20 min.(tried new bulbs many time) was told could be corroded or a bad relay, dont know what to do????
View 3 Replies
So.... here's my issue. I have a 2001 supercrew 5.4 and runs great all day long, no problem starting or anything. After I have driven it for a while and turn the AC on it cools off very good then after about a 1/2hr. the truck tries to stall. It almost sounds like a vacuum leak and really bogs down. I can wait about 2hrs and then with the AC off the truck starts and drives like it should. I am steering to the IAC valve but would like to know if this is it.
View 9 Replies
RPMs fluctuate from very high to very low without me doing anything. It doesn't do it all the time, so far its happened 4-5 times in the past 3 days. I first noticed it when driving, I took my foot off the gas to break and it started doing it and once I hit the gas it stopped. It seems to be getting worse because today I put it in the park and when it should have jumped into idle it started and even when I hit the gas it didn't stop. Like I said the RPMs fluctuate from very high to very low in a few seconds regular intervals.
View 2 Replies
My son bought a 1996 Toyota Corolla as his first car. There is rust developing on the driver's side door panels, mostly around where the decorative strip is. I am wondering what we can do to stem the tide, so to speak. Hopefully, something simple can be done. We can worry about patching the small areas that have already corroded, but he would like to not have it get worse.
View 12 Replies
My mechanic cannot figure out what's wrong with my car My car is a manual trans 1996 Toyota Corolla with almost 154K miles. I had the oil changed two weeks ago (about 1000 miles with my commute), and at that time, I let my mechanic know that it's been losing oil and so check it over. At that time, he changed the oil, cleaned the engine, and added a dye to the oil to show up any leaks.
I took it in this past Thursday for him to locate the leaking, and the mechanic let me know that 1) It came in mostly dry (no oil), 2) there was no visible leaking except for a seepage around the oil pan, which he says could not account for the loss of 4 quarts of oil in two weeks, and 3) it's not burning it out in the exhaust system.
A bit of the history of the car. I got it when it was at 59K, used, and there were a number of things wrong with it that I didn't discover until later, such as that no maintenance had been done to it at all in the 60K someone else had owned it. It came to me needing a timing belt, brakes, and an engine and radiator flush (the radiator fluid was brown instead of green).
At one point at around 70K, as a stupid teenager, I did let it run dry. The oil light came on, I panicked, shut it off, dumped in two quarts (which brought it to full on the dipstick, which I thought was weird), and took it straight for an oil change, where they told me it was dry, which was odd, because I'd just put 2 quarts in it.
After that, there were no issues until it hit about 120K. At that point, I started smelling burning oil and there was smoke coming from under my hood, so I towed it to my mechanic at the time. He replaced the valve cover gasket, the rear main seal, and the head gasket (with engine block machining and all). That more or less cleared the problem up, but then I took it across the country on a 3K road trip, and it ended up accidentally running dry again. Oil light came on, I shut it off, dumped in oil, took it for a lube job.
Since that time, it's been occasionally throwing me an oil light when I go downhill (I figure that this is because it's low but not out, and the change in pitch reduces the pressure?). Each time it does this, I've shut it off, coasted to a stop, dumped in 2 quarts (which brings it to full on the stick), and gone on, berating myself. These times have become more frequent, however, even though I now check the oil regularly.
So before I endure the deserved lectures about being dumb, yes, I blame myself, but regardless of my lazy maintenance, it's becoming ridiculous. My car is now finding a way to lose a gallon of oil over the course of 1000 miles, with no discernible leak or consumption.
Also, why my oil light comes on when it's only 2 quarts down on the stick sometimes, and then sometimes goes almost dry without throwing the oil light? I just got it back with the oil topped up, more dye in the engine, and instead of going for 2 weeks, I'm going for 1 week to see if maybe he can catch it in the act of learning this magic trick of vanishing oil.
View 16 Replies
My 96 2dr. Blazer with 121,000 on it . It will randomly not start. Come back next day starts and runs fine. It will randomly Stall (usually at lower RPM) it may start back up or not .If it dosen't start, it will start up 2 hours later, like nothing happened.
Fuel press. reads 58-62 lbs. running or with k.o.e.o., Even when it won't start. It holds press. for 2 min. c.e.l. never comes on when car won't start. c.e.l. would come on at close to red line and would be "left bank rich" Dont think it's crank or cam sensor cause their are no codes? Gonna check coil and ICM .
Checked for bad connectors at ecu, and everywhere, pulled, giggled on harness at ign. switch,plugs on drivers side under hood.Pump coming on even when car doesn't start. When it dies or doesn't start it doesn't sputter, like it's not getting gas ,I think it's voltage.
Car has new fuel pump and spider installed 2 years ago, run 44K every 6mos. Car is perfect inside and out Very well maintained . I want to keep this car forever.
View 8 Replies
I have a 1996 Ford Escort that was giving me problems resulting in a new fuel pump and fuel filter, that was improperly installed and got that fixed. It has continued with the problems and they are getting worse. I had the fuel pressure checked, came out fine, then had a full engine diagnostic test, all testing fine. The mechanic suspects a sensor. The car acts like it is going to stall, then just when I think it is going to quit, it kicks in and runs great.
I got bad fuel a while back and it is doing the same behavior except does not quit. It happens very intermittently, now in every driving situation, except since I brought it in. The mechanic said if he checks the sensor when it's not happening, it would be a waste of time and money. Is this true? A faulty sensor will not read as faulty? This town is full of bridges, and the highway has long stretches of nothing and a mountain pass. He is suggesting I drive it until it happens again, then take it in, but that's what I did the first time. Do I really have to wait till it quits in one of these driving scenarios?
View 1 Replies
After driving my car for about ~15 miles it bogs, throttle doesn't respond, if anything makes it worse. And then she dies. I've cleaned my MAF sensor and checked for spark, cleaned the connectors.
The only symptoms it seems to have is-when my A/C is on, the idle will jump from ~1000 RPMs to 700RPMs to 900RPMS etc. Its all over the place every few seconds.-bad gas mileage
My culprits right now are maybe -the fuel filter getting clogged up, -or the fuel pump overheating? (even with a full tank) -or my O2 sensors. Do O2's overheat? I feel like it could be that, given the horrible gas mileage I'm getting.
View 3 Replies
My 01 tundra can bog down under load - going up a long hill or towing a trailer - with the speed and RPMs steadily dropping until it finally downshifts, and the RPMS shoot up to 4k or so, but I don't regain much speed. This is without cruise control. If I have the cruise control on the problem does not occur. The truck slows, but in a normal way expected under the circumstances. The CEL is not on. No codes are being recorded. The Tranny fluid is full and smells fine.
View 18 Replies
When I press on gas the engine hesitates as if it's going to stall and the acceleration takes effect only after 2 seconds or around there! The check engine light is also on.
View 13 Replies
