Feels like I can almost put my foot to the floor. From where it engages to where there's strong resistance is 2 or 3 inches. Seems strange, what do you think?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2005 Toyota Corolla with 312,000 miles. I was driving in extreme desert heat, uphill, ac off, and the car continuously stopped. Gauge did not show overheating. Engine light has been on because of the catalytic converter/exhaust system. Got some repairs. Now, it's doing what it originally did. With my foot on the gas pedal, driving along smoothly, suddenly it feels like I've just braked -- chugs a couple of times like it's going to stop, slows, then goes back to normal for a while. Continually doing that. Especially when it is very hot outside. Already had the ECU replacement from the recall.
View 5 RepliesThe brakes on 95 toyota tocoma are soft and almost hit the floor and wont stop the truck, My first thought was the master cylinder was going bad so we changed it and bleed all the lines and back with the same problems. I am leaning to a bad caliper but every thing looks good so far no leaks every moves good as far as I can tell. Truck has 200 plus on her pads seem to be in good shape, just don't want to pay a shop and no i can do it myself if i no what part to change and don't want to throw parts at it as I've already did with the master cylinder...
View 18 RepliesTwo days ago I had the front brake pads on my 2003 Toyota Camry LE replaced because they were squeaking when I stopped. That squeak stopped, but after driving about 15 miles, I heard a squeaking noise AFTER I took my foot OFF the brake pedal. Pressing the pedal makes the squeak go away. I took the car back the next day and they changed the front rotors. While driving home, the squeak returned. I took the car to my regular mechanic this time. He says the guys who installed the brakes didn't clean anything when they put the new ones on, so he disassembled everything, cleaned the rotors, etc. and put everything back together. He also said they put the wrong pads on the car - I need ceramic pads and they used the metallic kind. Well, the brakes are still squealing when I'm not pressing on the brake pedal and stop squealing when I do press it.
Characteristics of the squeak....It only seems to happen when I drive the car more than 5-10 miles. When I drive a short distance, it doesn't happen. The sound is rhythmic, not constant. If I step on the brake and let if off slowly, like at a stop light, I can hear it "squeak, squeak, squeak" as the tire rotates. The faster the wheel spins, the more constant the sound. It only seems to come from the driver's side.
I hate to take the car back to the original shop because I don't think they know what they're doing. I'm scared of getting ripped off at one of the big chains (I'm a female and of course whenever I take a car in for service at one of those places "everything needs to be replaced.")
Will Toyota ceramic pads fix the problem? Can the wrong pads cause the brakes to squeak when you're not stepping on the brake pedal? Someone else suggested it might be the caliper binding and that would require replacing it.
I have a '95 Camry LE with the 2.2L four cylinder. The car ran PERFECT. Went to town today, great. Get in it a few hours after returning, it will turn over but not start. It is getting fuel, no fuses are blown, but is not getting fire.
View 5 RepliesI've had this 2001 toyota corolla for about 2 years now and its been sputtering ever since i got it. it usually happen when i start the car first thing in the morning, idle is usually fine but as soon as i put it in drive and give it a little gas it sputters, sometimes almost shuts downs. it has given my beautiful wife quite a few scares when pulling out on a busy street, by pretty much stopping in mid pull-out! so later on in the day it isnt as bad, usually just when we gas it to take off or pass someone.
But it ALWAYS does it when we go up the mountains here in PA, sometimes i cant go more than 35mph. Its been 2 years, im tired of this, i just had the second mechanic look at it without success. both times they said i had bad plugs. so i changed em. ive looked in forums and through that i learned that i can clean the MAF, i did, and i think its a little better, but not enough to see too much difference.
For What Its Worth: it consumes oil, almost a quart a week, and that is with an approx 500 mi per week. But no symptoms,(no blue smoke out the tail pipe and no spots on the garage floor)
ok so the other day my radio suddenly cut out. the speakers are very quite and i can only pick up static. I need to know if i have to replace the antenna, radio, or both?
View 3 RepliesGetting the car ready to drive 1500 miles cross country, I took the car to a mechanic for a check up. I asked him to pay particular attention to a thumping noise from the right front side below the floor every time the car goes over a small bump at low speeds. The car has 128 K miles. He tells me everything checked out fine except the attachment points of the sway bars are worn and that is the cause of the noise. He said that apart from the nuisance factor its not a safety issue and that I could leave it alone. Alternatively, replacing the bar/s would cost around $300. What is a sway bar and what does it do. I'm planning to trade this car in about a year from now. Till then it will be mostly used in city driving and commuting. It will be driven around 12K miles a year.
View 8 RepliesThe brakes on my 2007 Toyota Sienna suddenly went soft. The mechanic first replaced the rear pads, which needed to be done anyway, and when that didn't fix the problem he replaced the master cylinder. The brakes are still very soft. He has bled the system several times to get rid of possible air in the line, but that hasn't fixed the problem.
View 5 RepliesI drive a 1995 Toyta Corolla. Two things that I should mention that may or may not be relevant. I have a history of electrical issues (I've replaced my alternator 3 times) primarily when it has been wet outside. I have also noticed smoke under my hood. I was initially scared this was an engine issue, but my brother assures this is due to a power steering leak
The issue at hand:
For the last couple days I've noticed a few things worth mentioning. First my brake light has come on a handful of times, however oddly never when actually braking. Secondly, my enigine will sometimes but not always stop running when I brake. At this point all my electrical systems still work (lights etc.) and all the lights on my panel come on (which I understand is normal if a car is on but engine not running). Lastly, my car has never not stopped, but it has been for the lack of a better term "mushy" for a couple weeks.
When I go to start the car again after this engine stop, sometimes it will immediately start, sometimes it will struggle (rewr rewr rewr) but then start, sometimes it will struggle and go to battery noise ""click click click"", and if we start getting the battery clicks it stays there until jumped.
My brother today went and checked my battery with an multimeter, and he states that my battery is both maintaining a charge and charging (He told me to tell you he got Cold not started 12.3 volts, car running 14.48).
95 corolla 277k miles. 4 hours into a long trip went over a huge bump and the shocks seemed to "bottom out". Like they compressed as much as they could. Pulled over half hour later for a break.
After that drove rest of way home. Car started shuddering and slowing down going up a hill. Had to floor it just to get it to be 60 mph. Hill wasn't that steep. Seemed to do ok on flat parts.
Was a little low on gas so pulled over to fill up. Noticed car idled very roughly felt like it was going to stall while pulling into gas station.
Gas cap was a little loose. Didn't hear the whoosh of the vacuum you usually hear when undoing the gas cap either.
After that it seemed to be a little better going up hills. I drove it home, and a day later drove it and it seemed to go up hills ok.
It still idles very weirdly, roughly and like it's about to stall. While driving it sounds ok.
I was thinking fuel pump but now i'm not sure. It might be related to the gas cap, maybe the bump loosened it.
All of a sudden my radio and clock stopped working, k-checked fuses 20A, seem fine- two days later, the door chimes stopped working, and then the lights are one-chimes stopped, then the key in the ignition, and when the door is ajar, stopped dinging---is this a computer malfunction or sensor-WHICH ONE? 1997 toyota corolla........
View 2 RepliesOn the surface, the F-250/350 seems to have great brakes: big rotors, vented front and rear, and dual-piston calipers front and rear. But, I have two problems:
One is the annoying 'grunt' the brakes make every time you change from Park to Drive, or Park to Reverse, or Drive to Reverse. Its as if under normal brake pressure, the brakes cannot hold the truck from moving against the torque convertor engaging. It's not just my truck, I've heard older SD's with the 5.4L or diesel do this too. If you push the pedal really hard, it won't grunt.
The second problem I think is the root of the first: mushy brakes. Maybe I'm just used to driving european cars with firm brakes, but every time I apply my truck's brakes, it feels like I need to bleed the system! The truck does slow pretty well, and I realize it's heavy, but how can the pedal feel be improved? Maybe replacing the rubber sections with braided stainless?
Lastly, the truck has a 'hill-hold' feature which is retarded in an automatic transmission. My problem with it, is that sometimes it sticks on...engage drive, the truck won't move...a second later its like something gets unstuck and the truck kind of lurches forward.
My 1995 corolla door would not close. I looked and discovered that the 3 screws holding the door lock mechanism in place were gone. I went to the hardware and bought 3 new screws and installed them. The door shut and now it will not open at all. It was opening intermittently, so I bought shorter screws and put them in and now it will not open at all. The screws are flush with the door. The door is not stuck, you can feel that it is locked, so forcing it will not work. Climbing in and out over the passenger seat is quickly losing it's appeal. Monday I am taking the door apart from the inside.
View 6 RepliesOk I got a 1995 toyota corolla 1.8l dx .... So this is my back up car I went out started it up let it set and warm up and took it around the yard to run it a little well it ran fine then all of a sudden it lost all it's power well I finaly got it back to the drive that was only 50ft away took almost 30mins just to get it there. I cut it off let it sit started it back up and still no power well now it won't even start it has new plugs.. Wires.. Cap button.
View 17 RepliesMy 1995 1.8L Corolla wagon (230K original) automatic transmission will shift to neutral while I am driving. It will do this at any speed. It lasts for one to five seconds. Otherwise it runs and shifts perfectly . It does it on level or graded roads, maybe one to five times per week. I no longer feel confident to drive it. At first I would be driving along and the speedometer would go to zero. This would last for one to three miles. Then, after this, the speedometer would go to zero and the overdrive light would go on/off, and the transmission would shift back and forth. I changed the VSS but it did not fix the problem. Now it does the same again, only the transmission shifts to neutral.(The lever stays in Drive) This lasts for one to five seconds. Moving the shift lever during this time has no effect.
View 5 RepliesCar: 1995 Corolla 1.8L automatic
Symptom: misfires around 3000-3500 RPM only when warm.
I have replaced the following:
-Spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
-Ignition coil
-Fuel filter
-Poured some quality fuel system cleaner into the gas tank
The car stutters when accelerating in any gear hard enough to reach the engine speed that the misfire occurs at. It doesn't backfire, it just misses... I am confused since so many of the misfire issues I know about that are RPM specific are spark-related.
I have considered cleaning the injectors, but don't want to go through the hassle to remove and have them cleaned unless I really have to. Checking if hunch on the injectors is correct? Something else?
When I drive over bumps or dips my car makes this clunking noise in the front passenger side. I just had the front brake assembly replaced as well as the engine mounts but the noise is still occurring. what could this be and would it affect my new brakes in any way?
View 6 RepliesThe car's engine just stopped while driving on highway, then would not turn over, nothing.Took for repair, said battery had bad cell or something, still under warranty, replaced.Fixed a few other things that were overdue, spark plugs, wires.
Okay. Next day, took the car on a few city driving short trips. While going across town on hot 85 degree day w/ ac on, it died again. Don't remember any lights coming on, didn't last time either. I think the AC died first then car died. Wouldn't make a peep. Right in middle of heavy traffic. When police came couldn't even steer. There might have been a slight weird noise which I thought was the ac making trouble right before it stopped, can't describe it really.
Had it hauled to shop again. It runs fine for them so far. They are still working on it.What in heck could it be? All belts were replaced a few years ago, car has always run well, never any major repairs just maintenance. It has about 133,000 miles on it. It has a clutch.
I have a 1995 Corolla which is facing misfire issue and randomly turn off at stop sign the code I am getting is 26 which is rich fuel ratio. I have changed the O2 sensor car has new spark plugs and spark plug wires both NGK. the problem started when I installed the new distributor. one of the member here had the same problem.
Here is the person who had the same problem: [URL] .....
My 1995 Toyota Corolla DX with 180,000 miles is missing. It was missing intermittently, especially when idling and cold, and especially when I drove short distances to run errands and then restarted it. It got to the point where it was missing even when warm, and would stall out when idling (always restarted eventually). I took it in to a shop, and they replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil (which was fried) and the distributor cap and rotor.
All of the low speed and idling problems are solved. However, it now misses intermittently when I drive on the highway, only when giving the car gas at speeds of 45 mph or higher. It doesn't miss when I am coasting, regardless of speed, and doesn't miss at all under 45 mph. This car drives too well under 45 to be headed to the scrap yard yet.