Toyota - Corolla :: 1995 DX - Engine Just Stopped While Driving On Highway Then Would Not Turn Over
May 12, 2011
The car's engine just stopped while driving on highway, then would not turn over, nothing.Took for repair, said battery had bad cell or something, still under warranty, replaced.Fixed a few other things that were overdue, spark plugs, wires.
Okay. Next day, took the car on a few city driving short trips. While going across town on hot 85 degree day w/ ac on, it died again. Don't remember any lights coming on, didn't last time either. I think the AC died first then car died. Wouldn't make a peep. Right in middle of heavy traffic. When police came couldn't even steer. There might have been a slight weird noise which I thought was the ac making trouble right before it stopped, can't describe it really.
Had it hauled to shop again. It runs fine for them so far. They are still working on it.What in heck could it be? All belts were replaced a few years ago, car has always run well, never any major repairs just maintenance. It has about 133,000 miles on it. It has a clutch.
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My 1995 1.8L Corolla wagon (230K original) automatic transmission will shift to neutral while I am driving. It will do this at any speed. It lasts for one to five seconds. Otherwise it runs and shifts perfectly . It does it on level or graded roads, maybe one to five times per week. I no longer feel confident to drive it. At first I would be driving along and the speedometer would go to zero. This would last for one to three miles. Then, after this, the speedometer would go to zero and the overdrive light would go on/off, and the transmission would shift back and forth. I changed the VSS but it did not fix the problem. Now it does the same again, only the transmission shifts to neutral.(The lever stays in Drive) This lasts for one to five seconds. Moving the shift lever during this time has no effect.
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I have a 1995 Corolla which is facing misfire issue and randomly turn off at stop sign the code I am getting is 26 which is rich fuel ratio. I have changed the O2 sensor car has new spark plugs and spark plug wires both NGK. the problem started when I installed the new distributor. one of the member here had the same problem.
Here is the person who had the same problem: [URL] .....
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I drive a 1995 Toyta Corolla. Two things that I should mention that may or may not be relevant. I have a history of electrical issues (I've replaced my alternator 3 times) primarily when it has been wet outside. I have also noticed smoke under my hood. I was initially scared this was an engine issue, but my brother assures this is due to a power steering leak
The issue at hand:
For the last couple days I've noticed a few things worth mentioning. First my brake light has come on a handful of times, however oddly never when actually braking. Secondly, my enigine will sometimes but not always stop running when I brake. At this point all my electrical systems still work (lights etc.) and all the lights on my panel come on (which I understand is normal if a car is on but engine not running). Lastly, my car has never not stopped, but it has been for the lack of a better term "mushy" for a couple weeks.
When I go to start the car again after this engine stop, sometimes it will immediately start, sometimes it will struggle (rewr rewr rewr) but then start, sometimes it will struggle and go to battery noise ""click click click"", and if we start getting the battery clicks it stays there until jumped.
My brother today went and checked my battery with an multimeter, and he states that my battery is both maintaining a charge and charging (He told me to tell you he got Cold not started 12.3 volts, car running 14.48).
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Have a 2001 Corolla with 150k miles on it. It isn't straight up dying, but it is shuddering when driving at slower speeds or while stopped at a stop light. Have had the air intake looked at so that shouldn't be it. Sometimes the lights on the dash will dim when this happens but not sure if it might be a battery issue or that is just happening because the car is dying.
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My 1995 Toyota Corolla DX with 180,000 miles is missing. It was missing intermittently, especially when idling and cold, and especially when I drove short distances to run errands and then restarted it. It got to the point where it was missing even when warm, and would stall out when idling (always restarted eventually). I took it in to a shop, and they replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil (which was fried) and the distributor cap and rotor.
All of the low speed and idling problems are solved. However, it now misses intermittently when I drive on the highway, only when giving the car gas at speeds of 45 mph or higher. It doesn't miss when I am coasting, regardless of speed, and doesn't miss at all under 45 mph. This car drives too well under 45 to be headed to the scrap yard yet.
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My car engine wont turn over. I can hear the starter going when I turn the key but the engine wont start. My battery is old and when I read volt meter in my car the line is right in the middle. When I tried getting jump started by a friend the engine still wont turn over. I'm wondering if this is due to a bad battery that drained because of cold weather or something else. 1995 Toyota 4runner 251,900 miles...
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I have a 1999 Venture Van. The engine has a low idle and stalls when stopped/parked after driving on the highway for 10 minutes or longer. Whenever I drive it to the train station in the morning to go to work, it dies as soon as I park it. It will start up again fine right away tho. I drive 10 minutes on the highway.
The engine light is on, but goes off sometimes for months before coming on again. I've brought it to at least 3 mechanics and they can't get the light to stay permanently off, and say to just drive as-is. But that still leaves me with the low idling problem. It doesn't always stall, but the potential is always there, as you can hear the low rpms threatening, and dread stopping at a light.
I had the engine light interpreted as P0122 TP SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW. The mechanic replaced the Throttle Positioning Sensor. Engine light came on again 2010. Mechanic did a Computer system check/smoke test. Diagnosed a Leak in evap system so they installed a new gas cap and vent valve. 2 months later, engine light went on again.
New plugs, spark wires, fuel filter, fuel treatment, fuel line, gas cap, vent valve.
1 month later light is on again, and low idling persists. I put alot of $ into the problem with no solution. Some mechanics say the engine light has no relation to the low idling.
Wife wants me to get rid of it, but the Van is in great condition except the low idling/stalling problem. I don't care if the light stays on, as long as the low idling/stalling stops. Can't I just ask a mechanic to increase the idling rpm?
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Have a 1995 Toyota Tacoma 4WD with around 230K miles. Recently, it has been 'skipping'. When we are driving or idling, it's like the engine sputters out and jerks along but it never stalls and always starts. Had it to dealer and another mechanic - plugged it in said it was catalytic converter and 02 sensor. We changed those, along with: plugs, wires, air filter, oil. That did not fix it. What this could be. Where else to start to look for this vehicle. It's been the greatest little truck.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla CE manual transmission with 431,000 (not a typo) miles on it. About 7 weeks ago I noticed that when I turn on my high-beams after driving for awhile, the car dies for a few seconds. All lights go out, radio stops, engine stops and then it starts up again as if nothing happened. It will just do it once in about a half-hour time frame. I can switch the high-beams on and off repeatedly afterwards and it doesn't do it again. I have to drive for about a half-hour before it will do it again. I usually hear a slight pop sound when it does it.
A month later I noticed that if I parked it after driving for awhile, like at a gas pump, and get back in it, it acts as if the battery is dead for a few seconds. If I step on the clutch or open and close the driver door, the car comes back on. It appears that the battery was disconnected. The CD pops out of the player and all the radio station settings are gone. One morning last week I got in, and it had happened during the night. The CD was out, station settings gone, and the clock was 6.5 hours off.
I have had the car to a Toyota repair center 3 times. They have checked fuses, battery, battery cables, grounds, alternator, tensioner, looked for rodent nests, squirrels and I don't know what-all, etc. They can't find what is wrong. I am scared to drive it, but I depend on it. I commute 200 miles/day. I won't leave anything important in the car because I am afraid it will catch fire. I am scared I am going to have a wreck, too, with no lights and no power steering suddenly.
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I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla S 5 speed manual and after 15000 miles I noticed a ticking noise in my engine bay and goes away once I push down on the clutch, but once I get off the clutch the noise comes back. Is this a normal thing or should I be concern? I have 75000 miles on my car now, is it covered through the extended manufacturer warranty coverage of 120000 miles?
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I have a 98 Toyota Corolla, manual transmission. When I come to a hard stop, or make a hard turn, the engine either stalls or almost stalls. I've had it serviced lately with new plugs and wires, oil change and fuel system cleaning. The engine idles fine when you start it and are just sitting there. The problem seems to come with stopping hard or turning while quickly slowing, when the clutch is engaged. If I am able to hit the gas I can keep it running and then it runs fine.
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I have a 1997 Pontiac sunfire the other week I was driving and it stopped on me the engine would crank but quickly turn off but everything inside the car would still be on k was told I needed a new cat and got that and a new muffler put on. This morning I went to leave for work and the same thing happened again! I was told it could be the fuel pump or fuel filter but it doesn't act weird while driving it. What could this be?
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My 1990 Toyota Corolla which I hate to retire has only 64,000 miles on it. Starts and runs but while I am driving the dash lights up and the engine shuts off and won't restart. He thinks it is the NEC (?) switch but he said he is not really sure. Spending all that money and then finding out it is not fixed would not be worth it. It also is dangerous what if I am on the expressway?
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2000 Corolla - "growling" noise on the passenger side of the engine / stops when I turn the steering wheel - no loss of PS fluid (I also flushed the system) - which bearing(s) might be bad...?
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As I was driving, my break light came on and my ABS light came on. Also, the temp gauge stopped registering and my AC stopped blowing cold air. Is this a familiar problem or do i have a legit electrical problem.
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95 corolla 277k miles. 4 hours into a long trip went over a huge bump and the shocks seemed to "bottom out". Like they compressed as much as they could. Pulled over half hour later for a break.
After that drove rest of way home. Car started shuddering and slowing down going up a hill. Had to floor it just to get it to be 60 mph. Hill wasn't that steep. Seemed to do ok on flat parts.
Was a little low on gas so pulled over to fill up. Noticed car idled very roughly felt like it was going to stall while pulling into gas station.
Gas cap was a little loose. Didn't hear the whoosh of the vacuum you usually hear when undoing the gas cap either.
After that it seemed to be a little better going up hills. I drove it home, and a day later drove it and it seemed to go up hills ok.
It still idles very weirdly, roughly and like it's about to stall. While driving it sounds ok.
I was thinking fuel pump but now i'm not sure. It might be related to the gas cap, maybe the bump loosened it.
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My 1995 corolla door would not close. I looked and discovered that the 3 screws holding the door lock mechanism in place were gone. I went to the hardware and bought 3 new screws and installed them. The door shut and now it will not open at all. It was opening intermittently, so I bought shorter screws and put them in and now it will not open at all. The screws are flush with the door. The door is not stuck, you can feel that it is locked, so forcing it will not work. Climbing in and out over the passenger seat is quickly losing it's appeal. Monday I am taking the door apart from the inside.
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Ok I got a 1995 toyota corolla 1.8l dx .... So this is my back up car I went out started it up let it set and warm up and took it around the yard to run it a little well it ran fine then all of a sudden it lost all it's power well I finaly got it back to the drive that was only 50ft away took almost 30mins just to get it there. I cut it off let it sit started it back up and still no power well now it won't even start it has new plugs.. Wires.. Cap button.
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Car: 1995 Corolla 1.8L automatic
Symptom: misfires around 3000-3500 RPM only when warm.
I have replaced the following:
-Spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
-Ignition coil
-Fuel filter
-Poured some quality fuel system cleaner into the gas tank
The car stutters when accelerating in any gear hard enough to reach the engine speed that the misfire occurs at. It doesn't backfire, it just misses... I am confused since so many of the misfire issues I know about that are RPM specific are spark-related.
I have considered cleaning the injectors, but don't want to go through the hassle to remove and have them cleaned unless I really have to. Checking if hunch on the injectors is correct? Something else?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla XRS with a manual transmission which has developed a shudder. When this shudder started, it only occurred when accelerating at highway speeds, or maintaining highway speeds. Now it happens at lower speeds if I give it gas without downshifting, but at reasonable RPM, 3000-5000. I cannot feel the shudder in the steering wheel, but the whole car shakes, and it definitely feels like it is coming from the front end. I have had the tires balanced and rotated. I also have replaced the IACV and MAF due to a CEL. These were replaced after the shudder started. For a few days after the replacement, the CEL returned, but now I am no longer getting it.
There are no visibly obvious issues with the suspension or the drive shafts or CV joints, and the motor mounts likewise look okay. I am not getting a CEL of any kind, and I replaced my plugs 6 months ago, but I pulled them anyway, and they are not fouled. I don’t think the issue is in my suspension, steering, or wheels because I cannot feel it in the steering wheel. I don’t think my half shafts are warped because the shudder happens at varying speeds, and the instant I let off of the gas, it stops. Though this doesn’t rule them out completely, there is no clicking from the CV joints. When I brake, the car slows smoothly, so the rotors are fine. I have run injector cleaner a couple of times, and octane boost once. These both seemed to solve the issue, but did not make it stop, and it has gotten worse lately. My wife did put low-octane gas in the car once, but it was weeks ago.
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