Toyota - Corolla :: 1994 - Hard Time Shifting Between 20 - 30 Mph
Aug 2, 2011
My 94 Toyota Corolla has about 190,000 miles on it and lately it has had a hard time shifting between 20-30mph. It finally does reach it and does not have trouble shifting at any other speeds. This only happens in the heat of the afternoon (Never have this problem in the morning). Also, my O/D light has been flashing when this happens, or at least around the time it happens. Could these two problems be linked? I took it to my mechanic in the morning and he checked the transmission fluid and it seemed fine, he also had no problems driving around when he tested the car. He said my transmission is going and that I should make "long term" plans. Is there any hope?
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I have a 2001 Toyota Corolla 5 speed manual that is having a hard time picking up speed, but the engine will rev as high as your willing to push down the pedal. The engine runs well its just not affecting the speed of the car very quickly. We replaced the MAF sensor recently and it made little to no difference.
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I have a 94 E350 with a 7.3 diesel. I took it to the Ford dealership to have a new fuel filter and oil change when I got it back the OD light was flashing and transmission shifting hard. They tell me they cannot find a problem could they have possibly knock a wire off of something to make this happen...
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I have a 1994 Toyota Corolla, automatic transmission. I went to start it this afternoon and it made a clicking sound a few times then went completely dead. When I jumped it, the dashboard panels, radio, lights, doors, etc. began to work, but it still would not start. I have replaced the alternator about 1.5 yrs ago and had the battery checked then too (it was fine then). I have had this problem before about a year ago, but it did start when jumped. I didn't leave my lights on or any doors open, so I don't think I drained the battery.
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My 1994 Toyota Corolla wagon has a problem. I drove to work, all seemed fine. I jumped in it in the afternoon, and my key won't go in the ignition - it gets half way in, and that's it. It feels like the key is bumping into something into the ignition lock cylinder. In the interest of full disclosure, I've sprayed some WD-40 into the lock cylinder, thinking maybe the pins were jammed. If that is the case, it hasn't worked. Zero improvement. This originally happened when it was really cold out, so I've waited and tried it again on a warm (40 degree) day - no change (though my door lock and ignition have been more stubborn in the cold in the past, but only marginally so). So, what are my options? I guess you can't (easily) replace the lock cylinder without the key in the "on" or "acc" position (which I obviously cannot do). I'm not opposed to using a screwdriver as the key, or hot-wiring the car, but don't want to take drastic (or stupid) steps before being sure I don't have other choices..
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After a new distributor, check engine light coming on, getting a code 52, they (Toyota Dealership) replaced knock sensor. Unfortunately it seems to improve a little bit, but same issues happen; engine not running smooth at times. 94 Corolla. In the 223,000 mile club. 1.6
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I have a 94 Camry 2.2. When I am driving 45 MPH the transmissions acts like it is shifting into N or OD and then the RPMS fluctuate between idle and 1500 or so. Then when I it will shift hard because the car has decelerated. If I stay in the throttle during this it just jerks or lunges.
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I have a 1994 Toyota Surf Hilux. Lately the manuel gear has quit shifting while the car is on. I can correct it by shutting the car off and then it shifts perfectly. This started out as an intermittent problem but is getting increasingly worse. It happens every day now. Trust me, this is very dangerous not to be able to shift while in African traffic. I don't want to take it to a mechanic here because they aren't usually trustworthy - they will fix all kinds of problems that I don't have and I can't afford to have my car tied up for weeks with no results. I have a friend who might be able to fix it if we can ascertain the problem but it is pretty confusing as to what the problem might be. The clutch was replaced a year ago.
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Was having a hard time shifting fast from 1st to 2nd when accelerating hard, it was like something was blocking the 2nd gear gate, same thing sometimes when downshifing fast from 6th to 5th.
After JT recommending it here, I installed the Neuspeed torque arm insert. Used a scissor jack on the left front side (it has a wide base), got under the car from the front bumper passenger side. 21mm bolt was tight, but got it out with a regular length 1/2 inch socket bar. Insert was hard to get in (even after spraying silicone on it), finally just sprayed silicone into the existing bushing and the insert slipped right in.
First test drive really made it easy to shift from 1st to 2nd under hard acceleration only a slight bump when entering the 2nd gear gate, downshifing was smooth too. Down side? none that I noticed, no vibration.
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Periodically my 1994 Toyota Corolla 5-speed manual will not start. Other times it seems to hesitate before starting. The rest of the time it starts fine.
When it does not start: I turn the key, and hear the fuel pump relay click, and hear the fuel pump on the gas tank energize, but the car does not try to crank. I do not know if the starter solenoid is engaging at this time, as I could not listen for it while in the car. When I did try to listen for it while under the hood with someone else starting the car, it actually started (did not exhibit the issue)
When it hesitates before starting: However, sometimes, when I turn the key I hear the fuel pump relay click and the fuel pump energize, after about 1-1/2 seconds of holding the key, it does start.
When it does start it sounds normal, not like a low battery. The battery is new. I had the charging system checked at Advance Auto and they said the battery was good as was the alternator and starter. Plenty of cranking amps.
I disconnected the main wire on the starter motor and cleaned it with a wire brush. I also cleaned up the battery terminals.
I did find that the switch on the clutch pedal that allows the car to start when pressed has some fluid leaking on it (clutch fluid I think). Could that be causing the intermittent starting issue? If so, can I just clean it with WD-40 or something like that?
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This car was running fine until my daughter brought it to a reputable tire shop to have new tires put on and an alignment done. The day after this was done, she started having issues with the car not wanting to move when it is in drive. It would eventually take off, but very reluctantly, and once she got going down the road it would be fine. After a couple days like this, it just wouldn't go at all in drive unless someone was pushing it. It goes fine in reverse.
The transmission fluid level had been recently checked, and was fine. Now when this problem cropped up and it was checked, the fluid was gone! We don't notice anything on the ground where it has been parked.
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I have recently been having a problem with my Toyota Corolla. It starts up fine in the morning, but after a couple of hours of driving with the A/C on and the running lights (which are always on), and the radio, when I shut the car off, it will not start without a jump. With my heavy duty cables it starts instantly with the jump but then I am afraid to turn it off again. It has a genuine Toyota battery that has the dots removed saying it was installed Dec. 2012 although it looks older. After driving for a couple of hours the battery should be fully charged right? Or, does having the A/C and lights on suck up to much juice?
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I have a 220k 1994 Corolla with I have come across a couple problems recently. It all started about a week ago when I decided to change my rear brake shoes. The old ones turned out to be all cracked and everything but were generally in pretty good shape in terms of wear. Anyways I put the new shoes in (my first brake job) and tightened up the e brake cable and went for a test drive. I walked away extremely satisfied, the e brake worked perfect which was my main reason for changing the shoes in the first place.
Basically the whole thing worked perfectly until 2 days later. I was driving for about 8 miles when my brake pedal suddenly fell through to the floor (or pretty close) at first I even thought I hit the clutch pedal! anyways after pumping the pedal a few times my pedal feel returned about 70% and after another maybe 10 seconds braking power was lost again until I pumped the pedal. So lucky for me my destination was a 1/4 mile away so I parked and checked the fluid level; it was at the max mark, then I check the wheels/drums and they were REALLY hot.
Also the driver's side drum had a faint smell of brake fluid. Anyways about an hour later I went for a short drive and the brakes worked fine so an hour after that I drove the 8 miles home and about 1/8 of a mile from home same thing happened; brake pedal basically goes almost down to the floor until pumped. My thoughts were that the new shoes were constantly rubbing and the old fluid overheated and caused failure so I flushed the system and put new fluid in and adjusted the shoes "in" with the click adjuster bolt. I had a really hard time getting the drums of to begin with. That and I loosened the e brake cable just in case.
So the next morning I drive about 5 miles without using the brakes pulled over to check that the drums were not heating up anymore (they weren't) so I thought I had fixed it. Well 3 days later (last night) I was experiencing the rear brake stickiness again. Basically when I was just moving from a stop where I had used the e brake to secure the car, I could literally feel that the rear brakes were stopping the car pretty aggressively and sure enough after a few more miles my brake pedal fell through so I poured water on the drums and they started to let off lots of steam, even after like 10 bottles!
So I limped to my friends house at 12:00 AM and jacked my car for a look. Again the drums really didn't want to come off and once we did get them off my friends dad inspected them and could find anything wrong with my installation. The conclusion that we came to was that the auto adjustor for the shoes makes the shoes too tight and they rub. So I am thinking maybe this is cause for the fluid to overheat and boil, causing the pedal to fall through. The pedal fell has gotten much worse since I bled the system 3 days ago so that may be an indicator. Did a test this morning for 5 miles and the drums were just below lukewarm.
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My 1994 Toyota Corolla's speedometer just stopped working while I was driving this morning. Does this mean that there could be something worse going on than just my speedometer?
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I have a 2003 Accent and it has been over heating constantly for about 5 months. After it started, we replaced the main radiator hose, thermostat, radiator cap AND a head and head gasket. It worked for about 2 weeks and then over heated again. It seems like there is too much pressure somewhere because the lid for my reservoir shoots off and all the coolant comes out. I'm just not sure where to look for a clog since it is coming out of the reservoir. It also recently started having transmission problems(?) or that is what I think it is... It won't go in reverse and has a hard time shifting sometimes. I'm not sure if it could be related or if it is the tranny also.
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I bought my 2003 Forester a year ago from a friend with 90,000. I love this car, I put a new timing belt on it and off we went. The car worked fantastically from January to August 2011. One night I was driving to watch a show and rather then shifting into gear, it jolted. Pulled over, checked fluids and so on, car worked normally for a while. It started doing this more frequently. It has a hard time shifting into 2nd and when it does, (at about 40MPH) it jolts and same thing for third and so on. I took it to my mechanic but it never misbehaved for him sop I took it back and drove some more and dropped it off at a transmission shops. They get it to do what it does, ran many tests, decided it was the throttle sensor, replaced it, car worked great for two weeks and then reverted back to this behavior. Took it in again three times but they can't seem to figure it out. Anyway, I have taken the car to five different mechanics and no one can quite figure it out. So my car, the Diva, as I like to refer to her, continues to jolt to shift gears. If I put it into reverse it will shift normally until I stop again or slow way down. I am stumped and sad because I love my car. It now has 101,000 and I want it to be kind to me.
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My 1994 Toyota Corolla idles at around 1500 and 2000 RPM just about anytime I drive it.
It is worst when I first start the car, and it gets better the longer I drive, however, it is still well above a normal idling range!!
I add oil regularly and do check the levels on most of my fluids on a weekly basis!
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[URL] .... My engine has been making this sound for a while now I am at 125000 miles, what it could be and if i need to be worried about it? also, possibly unrelated, it has a SUPER hard time shifting into reverse, it gets stuck and it feels just super sticky shifting in and out of reverse. Sometimes I can't even get it to go into reverse without letting the car roll a bit. Also, at around 3k rpm the engine sounds a little grinder in any gear. 2008 Honda Fit Sport ...
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I have a 2011 corolla S. sometimes when i shift from park to drive, it shifts smoothly and easily. most of the time when I am shifting from park to drive, it isn't smooth and doesn't shift easy. You can hear when you move it from park.
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The transmission is shifting extremely hard when it downshifts to make a pass.
Any other time it shifts fine, this is the only scenario it happens in.
It is pretty violent, shifting with a bang.
It is a 2010 corolla, auto, with 70k miles, I have never changed the fluid, and I don't think it has anything to do with it.
The tech said it might be the battery, as it was going bad. I put a new battery in, and it didn't seem to do it for two weeks or so, but is now back doing it again.
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Our 05 Corolla, 160,000 miles, has started making a grinding sound when we upshift into 3rd, unless we let the rpms fall to below 1000. My husband said the clutch needed adjusting, but the dealer said this clutch is not adjustable. The dealer found nothing wrong and could not get the car to make the noise while in the shop. (It did actually get better for a while but got worse again almost immediately after the visit to the dealer.)
Our other car (a Saturn) has over 250K miles on the original clutch, so I don't think it's our driving. What could be wrong, and is this something that needs to be addressed soon lest we damage something irreparably? Also, this car has, since purchase, been nearly impossible to shift on the coldest mornings. Really, sometimes it is all I can do to get the lever in reverse to back out of the drive in winter (in Kansas). Warming up works, but it seems to take an inordinate amount of time before shifting is"normal."
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