Toyota - Corolla :: 1993 - Dying And Rough Idling
Jan 11, 2016
I have a 93 Corolla LE and in October I was driving in heavy rain and the car died. Since then I have replaced the spark plug wires, plug seals, distributor cap, battery, and rotor. The car would get me from A to B, but I would always have to put it in neutral at a stop to keep it from dying. This past week we've had a lot of rain and it's been really cold so my car has been dying when I slow down or stop. I gave it plently of time to heat up thinking it would work, but it died three times on the way to work.
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My girlfriend has a 1993 corolla, with a little over 200,000 miles on it, manual transmission. It has been running great until a couple days ago. Driving back from Seattle, we noticed the car hesitating while driving. With the gas applied, it seemed as if the car was hesitating forward and backward, it seemed as if the engine wasn't getting enough gas. This happens in all gears, but less so in 5th I think. The next morning, while stopped with the clutch in, the car seemed to be always on the verge of dying out, with the RPMs dropping, and then revving back up constantly, right before it seemed the engine would die. The engine hasn't actually cut out yet, but it seemed very close. We shifted into neutral and the same problem was happening, so I don't think it's a clutch problem.
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I have a 1993 Geo Prizm (Toyota Corolla) that idles roughly and lopes only when the engine is fully warmed up to operating temp. I changed the plugs, and wires are only 1 year old and seem to be in good shape. I suspected a vacuum leak, but have not been able to find one.
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Having problem with 2010 Toyota Corolla. Engine light comes on as well as VSC and traction control but the engine does not shut off. I loose power and engine runs really rough. I have to pull over and unplug my battery cable and the problem is gone until a week or two later same thing happens. My gas mileage is about 10 km for every 100KM city and Highway mix. The engine idle is also rough and sometimes when I try to do a U turn or get in and out of parking the engine shuts off.
Engine scanned shows P0010 and it could be three or for causes? My problem is that mechanics change one thing which costs an arm and a leg then if that did not fix the problem they say now lets change another part? I can not afford to fix them one by one and get charged for it as they replace one part at a time.
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Car was idling and driving real rough and dying at stops. Turns out that the transmission mount was torn so I replaced it and verified that the other two motor mounts were good. Car was still running rough but on a drive with some jerky shifts (automatic) after about 20 miles all is well and I'm running as smooth as a baby's bottom with great turbo action. Cars just don't fix themselves. What could have been wrong? By the way there were no codes from the Tech ll. Using a pc of tubing I can't hear any vacuum leaks nor when spraying brake cleaner on the hose ends does the engine race.
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My brother's 5.4 has been rough idling and dying at stops and in reverse for a few weeks now. Today it threw a code and he finally had me look at it and it's a P0345 code. I was thinking cam phasers possibly, but I didn't think that would cause a code to throw. Also, all I hear about cam phasers is that it makes the truck sound like a diesel, but his when it's about to die sounds like the engine is about to drop out the bottom of the engine bay. Really rough, REALLY loud knocking, etc... What we should be looking at replacing to get this thing back into shape?
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I drive a 1995 Toyta Corolla. Two things that I should mention that may or may not be relevant. I have a history of electrical issues (I've replaced my alternator 3 times) primarily when it has been wet outside. I have also noticed smoke under my hood. I was initially scared this was an engine issue, but my brother assures this is due to a power steering leak
The issue at hand:
For the last couple days I've noticed a few things worth mentioning. First my brake light has come on a handful of times, however oddly never when actually braking. Secondly, my enigine will sometimes but not always stop running when I brake. At this point all my electrical systems still work (lights etc.) and all the lights on my panel come on (which I understand is normal if a car is on but engine not running). Lastly, my car has never not stopped, but it has been for the lack of a better term "mushy" for a couple weeks.
When I go to start the car again after this engine stop, sometimes it will immediately start, sometimes it will struggle (rewr rewr rewr) but then start, sometimes it will struggle and go to battery noise ""click click click"", and if we start getting the battery clicks it stays there until jumped.
My brother today went and checked my battery with an multimeter, and he states that my battery is both maintaining a charge and charging (He told me to tell you he got Cold not started 12.3 volts, car running 14.48).
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I have a 1993 Dodge Stealth (3.0 V6 SOHC) that has been idling a little rough, especially when the a/c is on. It was suggested to me that a dirty throttle body could be the cause, so I cleaned it. After I did that it ran great with the exception of idling around 1000 RPM instead of the usual 300, then the next day driving home from work (ran fine on the way TO work) whenever I tried to coast or engine break my engine began to shudder and run really rough! what could be happening?
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My Toyota Corolla, 2006 keeps dying after long periods of sitting. Coincidentally (?) the issue has only occurred on weekends, after my 8-hour afternoon work shift. The first 2 occasions it made a quick clicking sound when I tried to start it (6 and 5 weeks ago, respectively). I replaced the battery; it was old. Then, the same issue happened two weeks ago. I had the battery checked at the site of purchase, where they also checked the alternator. Both reps advised me the parts showed up good on their meters. It died again the next day. So, I had a mechanic check every fuse and relay in the car to look for a draw on the battery using an amp meter. Readings indicated no significant drop in current draining from the battery while any were unplugged. . . I don't use a remote control unlock button (one professional seemed to think this might be relevant), and I have checked to make sure no lights were left on, even in the trunk. (Also note - I have seen no drop in performance when driving vehicle, nor any change in air conditioning or light brightness). I'm lost where to take it from here.
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I have a 1993 corolla auto trans and when I first try to take it out of park it will not shift. I noticed that when I push the brake pedal to the floor it finally shifts. I recently replaced the brake switch, could the adjustment be a problem?
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My 1993 Toyota Corolla station wagon is not starting. The starter tries but the car does not start. It was fine yesterday but just won't start today.
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I have a 93 Corolla that won't start. Here was the approximate sequence of events:
Car had been sitting for about 1 week. Went to start it and no cranking sound occurred. I tried repeatedly and heard an occasional click and the dash warning lights would vary in brightness from full bright to very dim. Got my friend to give me a jump start and it cranked/started on the first attempt. Drove around for about 20 minutes to recharge the battery.When I got home I turned the car off and made another attempt and ... nothing. No cranking sound, just a click. So I tried again and all of a sudden it started IMMEDIATELY (first crank)!So I turned it off again, and now every subsequent attempt just causes a lot of clicking, and the dash lights come on but vary a great deal in terms of how bright they are.
So... I'm thinking it can't be the battery. If it was the battery that wouldn't explain why it started immediately following not starting. Seems strange that the jump worked, but perhaps that was just a lucky attempt.
What do you think? Bad ignition switch? Anything else I can test?
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I have a 1993 Toyota Corolla 1.6L with 200K miles. It is a sweet ride, but about every 2 or 3 years, the exhaust manifold cracks. I have replaced it several times, installing new gaskets, and carefully following the torque specifications on all of the bolts, but eventually, it cracks again.
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My '93 Toyota Corolla recently had dash lights come on when I applied the brakes - after parking, gear shift placed in 'park', and ignition turned off. I have never noticed this before (btw, have new battery installed within past two weeks). Is this an indicator of anything I should pay attention to? It did this about a week and now has stopped.
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I got the clutch replaced on my 1993 Toyota Corolla (~160,000mi.) by a shop and immediately afterward started having really bad front end vibration problems. I took it back to the shop & they said that changing the clutch may have caused already worn out motor mount(s) to be stressed and that was causing the vibration. They want time with the car to figure out which motor mount it might be. My question is, is it reasonable that a properly performed clutch change caused the motor mount problems? Or is this the result of sloppy work? I realize the car is old, but I have always maintained it well since I bought it in 2004.
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I just recently bought a used 1993 Toyota Corolla LE from a private individual. The guy said the vibration was caused by a crack in the front bumper but I think it is much more than that. The vibration is present all the time, but much worse when the car in in park or neutral. It has an automatic transmission. What could be causing the vibration?
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My 09 corolla is running rough when idling in drive. It doesn't happen in park or neutral.
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I drive a '93 Toyota T100 with a manual transmission. Up until recently things were going great but I've noticed it is damn near impossible to shift from reverse back into first gear when I'm pulling out of my driveway. I've also found that shifting from first gear to second has become more difficult as well though not impossible. However if I'm shifting to third, fourth, or fifth gears I don't have any problem whatsoever. I had the transmission redone about a year ago after the clutch gave out so I'm hoping its not that.
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Toyota Corolla 93, manual transmission so there was a problem with idling, while it idles, the engine revs up but im not pressing the gas pedal at all. found out it the vacuum hose was broken. we fix it, buy a new one and now the engine dies out. change the air filter. The car still dies out. so the car either dies out or bad idling. what do i do?
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Car is idling rough. Mechanic said it might be an oil restriction not getting to a sensor and advancing the timing.
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My 1995 Toyota Corolla DX with 180,000 miles is missing. It was missing intermittently, especially when idling and cold, and especially when I drove short distances to run errands and then restarted it. It got to the point where it was missing even when warm, and would stall out when idling (always restarted eventually). I took it in to a shop, and they replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil (which was fried) and the distributor cap and rotor.
All of the low speed and idling problems are solved. However, it now misses intermittently when I drive on the highway, only when giving the car gas at speeds of 45 mph or higher. It doesn't miss when I am coasting, regardless of speed, and doesn't miss at all under 45 mph. This car drives too well under 45 to be headed to the scrap yard yet.
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