Toyota :: Chain Is Too Tight Against The Bar That It Kills The Engine
Feb 17, 2013
My chain saw, chain is so tight against the bar that it kills the engine. However, I have properly (as I have always done) adjusted the chain where it very slightly hangs from the bar. Chain, after a few cuts, becomes way too loose to where it may jump the bar unless I readjust. IOW, I can't seem to keep the proper tension.
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When I start engine usually your dashboard light turn on, eng, seatbelts, etc. but that doesn't happens, but engines starts for awhile and than you see the volt indicator drawing negative. And after few minutes of running it dies and will not start, battery is dead, I believe there is a short circuit or a relay problem....
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OK, this one has me stumped...I have a 93 F150, 302 with the E4OD. I know the transmission needs to be rebuilt (probably a bad pump). When I put it in reverse, the engine will start to bog down and will die unless I put it back into park or neutral.
If the engine does die, the fuel pump does not prime with the key "on" and the engine obviously will not start. If I let the truck sit for about an hour, the fuel pump primes like it should and the engine starts right up. The fuel pump shut-off does not trip and all fuses are good.
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I'm told by my dealer that I must replace the timing chain by 100,000 miles. I've also been told by others who've driven multiple vehicles over 250K miles that they've never replaced a timing chain on any of their vehicles. Who's right in this case?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla with a leaking timing chain tensioner. I was able to locate a procedure for replacing the tensioner but it didn't say whether the no. 1 cylinder had to be @ TDC or not. What is the proper procedure for this repair?
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Can swap a 98 Toyota Camry auto tranny to a 96 Camry with the same size engine? Sometimes the axles are different (splines) so if the axles are changed also then the tranny will work. But the axles and tranny all have to be switched?Driving down the road at about 65 mph there was a clunk, a binding like brake stuck thing going on, and then the tranny would not move the car. It seems as though the chain, if there is a chain in the tranny, broke. Someone told me it is the gears (planetary) on the right hand side of the transmission that drives the axle. No one including me has gone under it to look. But I do have access to that 98 tranny and axles.
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OK, after some bearing issues I replaced the crankshaft with a reman. The engine is now in, but it is not turning over like I think it should. It just feels too tight, and cranks slow. It cranks smooth, nothing hitting. It is hard to turn with a wrench on the front bolt. I am wondering if I messed up on the torque on the rod bearings.
I torqued them according to the book. First to 29 to 33 ft lbs, then rotated an additional 90 to 120 degrees. I went with the lower of the numbers, 29 foot pounds then an additional 90 degrees. The mains I tightened to 30 ft. lbs. then an additional 90 degrees.
Are these the correct specs? I did smear a little grease on the main journals before installing, but did not do this for the rods as the book says. Is this maybe something to do with my issue?
I did not measure with plastiguage to see, I didn't realize I was out of the stuff and didn't want to drive 50 miles away to get some! I am also wondering if heating up the bearings on one rod journal might have warped the rod and is binding not allowing it to turn. I did notice when I put it back together it turned a little hard, but figured it would be ok once it started.
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I have a fairly low mileage 2005 Prius I purchased private sale about 6 months ago... so still getting used to a few things. The previous owners had to replace the hybrid battery at about 45,000 mi. From what I understand, that's pretty unheard of. The reason that was given that the battery died was that the Prius was in their garage un-driven for a couple weeks while they were on vacation and the car had been pinging the key fob (close by in the house) the whole time. The associated details were a little fuzzy, but the owner has a note written in the manual about a certain combo of buttons to hit if you'll be away from the car for awhile, but the fob will still be physically close to the car. This combo turns off the hybrid battery (??)
Ok, so my question... How common is this? How long is 'long' that I should be concerned about leaving the car? Is it really best practice to keep your keep fob more than so-many feet from the car to reduce the chance of this happening?
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I have a 99 Town & Country that occasionally has a starting problem that has stumped my otherwise excellent mechanic. Every once in awhile when I start my van it kills right away. Even if I rev the engine with the gas pedal it kills immediately. It will do that 3-5 times, then when I turn the key nothing will happen, no click no dash lights, nothing. Often if I let it sit at that point for a few hours it will start and run fine.
The alternator was changed two years ago in an attempt to fix this problem and the starter was just replaced a few months ago.
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I posted my passat to sell/part out last week. So I talked to the mechanic today and he hasn't looked in the engine. He just says that when the timing chain goes it wrecks the valves and pistons (needs rebuild). HE WAS TRYING TO SAVE ME MONEY THOUGH...FAMILY FRIEND. My sister got lucky on her passat and only messed up the valves. But she was sitting still....I was doing 80mph on 95 going to work. Should I have the engine looked at or sell it.....what are the odds I got lucky??? I found a lot of posts/blogs about how everyones engine blew, but no one said they got lucky.
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When I turn my headlights on idle the motor kills. At higher RPM engine still runs and lights will start to blink.
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Looking at buying this used 2004 F150 and the Seller says it has a problem with the ignition switch; that it continues to run the starter even after the engine is running, which burns out the starter. He's an obvious layperson and doesn't know much about mechanical stuff (or he's pretending, IDK).
This sounds very strange to me, because if it's some kind of mechanical defect/factory defect, it's something that Ford should have identified, documented, issued a recall maybe, or something, yet when I research the issue the only thing I find is a problem with ignition switches that cause fires in model years that end in 2003 (not 2004). Other than that I find no documentation.
I wonder how accurate the Seller's description is, or maybe it's defective due to some other reason, like maybe a car thief shoved something into the ignition and damaged it, or possibly corrosion. Or maybe it's simply "sticky" and some spray lubricant would fix it.
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When I start up my engine, I hear a chain noise coming from the top of the engine. It's like a belt running chains. Also when I reverse the DSG it's a jerking sensation normal or should i get it fixed by VW.
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I just bought this 2008 santa fe with a 3.3 V-6. It has 200kms on it. Here is the problem- I start the engine, and for the 1st second of running there is NO noise,.....but a second later it sounds like a chain slapping around in the engine HARD. it lasts for about 2 seconds and then the motor is quiet. It seems like the longer the car sits,..the worse it gets. If your only letting it sit for 20 minutes or so, you wont hear it.
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I have a quick question, when a timing chain breaks on a gli does it cause damage to the engine(like mess up the piston and valves) need to know ASAP.
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is it possible for a loose timing chain to cause a engine miss.
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Believe an engine temperature sensor is bad. I took it in to get a code read, and they said it could be either temp sensor or fan switch, but didn't know which one without newer software.
Codes are
19537 - Engine Temperate too Low
P3081 - 008 - Implausible Signal
I've checked the fuse legend to see if there is a fuse I can pull, but none of them marked fan seem to kill it after the car is off, so that I can save some battery power.
I believe that I have narrowed it down to the engine coolant temperature sensor. What is the level of job this is to replace? From a parts location manual, it looks like it is in the Thermostat housing, but I'm not sure where that is.
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I have a 2005 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 SOHC while the engine is running the left side timing chain rattles. I replaced the timing chain and guides and tensioner, the engine has good oil pressure but the noise is still there.
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I've noticed a noise coming from the engine which sounds to me like the timing chain. Seems like the tensioner is keeping the chain a little loose while the RPM's are low. The rattle doesn't happen all the time; only when I let off the throttle or accelerate keeping the RPM's low.
This is just my guess that it's the timing chain. I had heard a similar rattle in my old I35 and I had to change the timing chain tensioner.
I'm going to check the engine oil level tomorrow morning. This 10,000 mile oil change is really starting to seem like a not so good idea! Right now I'm at 9950..
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I started my car and a chain rattle noise then the check engine light popped on. now I have two codes, p1340 and p0012 codes for camshaft issues.
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My 2003 Sante Fe has developed a rattling sound in the engine. The oil level has been good. I took it to a dealer for diagnoses and they told me that the engine was gunked up and the timing "chain" tensioner couldn't move to keep it tight and it was rattling. They put some engine cleaner in and changed the oil and wanted me back in 500 to clean it again. I did that again, but the rattle is still there. It gets a little quieter after I have driven it for a while.
My question is doesn't the Sante Fe have a timing belt? If that is the case what do you think the rattle is?
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