Toyota - Celica :: 1991 - Car Jerks Like Missing
Sep 18, 2014
My sister has a 1991 toyota celica GT ITS 5spd with the 2.2L in it which is the 2200 twin cam and all that. Last week her alternater went out. I replaced it and got the correct belt tension good volts going everything but now when she is going down the road doesn't matter what gear anywhere from 1800-2800 rpms her car jerks like its missing i checked the plugs and they are white which means its starving for fuel but when its cold its no problem drives perfect i was thinking replacing new plugs new wire distributor cap and fuel filter and seeing if that solves it...
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I have a 1991 Toyota Celica GT with 220,000 on it. Will a valve job improve gas milage? I currently get about 22 mpg city driving if I use medium grade gas. The reason I ask is that I was thinking of getting a new car - but a valve job would be a lot less$$$ and I just can't see buying a new car that get less gas milage.
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I have a 1991 toyota celica st and I recently broke some belts. I think I broke 2 belts. Any diagram of the belts and pulleys because I don't know where to loosen the pulleys to replace the belts. What each belt powers?
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1991 Toyota Celica 2.2 liter standard water is boiling in upper radiator hose what could be the possible cause of this problem I have changed radiator and cap, water pump, radiator hoses and have flushed the system. could crossed hoses from engine to heater control valve and heater core cause this problem?The head has been checked and no exhaust gas was found in radiator fluid ...
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A while ago, I acquired a 1991 Mazda 626 automatic (currently 105,000 miles) that now has what appear to be the beginning of transmission issues. It hard shifts from 1st to 2nd - the shift jerks really hard when the car is cold but once I've driven it for 15-20 minutes the hard shift almost disappears completely and stays that way as long as the car is warm - except for stop and go traffic (Seattle traffic) than the hard shift comes back no matter how long I've been driving. The only other shifting issue I notice is on the hills where it seems to shift more frequently than I might expect it too.
Other than what I've described this car is in perfect condition inside and out, as well as engine-wise. My question is on transmissions and whether I should get a rebuilt one. I've taken it to multiple transmission shops and almost all have told me two things 1) I need a new transmission and 2) that the issue is a hard component problem and I could most likely drive this car for months or years without having to replace the transmission - if I want to put up with the rough shifts. They recommended just driving it until the transmission goes out and then replacing it.
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I have a 1991 Buick century with 160,000 miles. It wasn't driven for about a year and about 8 months ago I changed the plugs, wires, and oil and it has run great since then...until yesterday. Now, every time I slow down to come to a stop (or below 20mph) the car jumps and jerks and acts like it is wanting to lock up and stalls. It starts back up put every time I put it in drive (just drive) it stalls again. I end up having to put it in neutral, rev the engine, then put it in drive real quick. Talking to my dad, who I got the car from, he told me it used to have this same problem and that is why he quit driving it. We have a couple of theories
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2001 M B3000 v6 my sons truck w 122k. He is overseas and I took it to deliver a CB750 bike to my brother in law... 4oo miles away from my place.
In the middle of nowhere TX it developed a bad miss or knock, almost a shudder in the 2 to 3 k rpm range. Idles ok just below 1k runs fine at 70 mph as long as the rpm is near or over 3k.
Not sure I want to turn around and drive back the 400 with it running like crap. I will take it to Autozone and pull codes tomorrow a.m. but what should I expect?
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i have a 91 celica 4AFE 1.6L 5 speed & the cooling fan won't come on. we checked, the fan does work, we changed the fan relay & that's not the problem. what should i do now?
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I have a 91 celica with a 4afe engine and i cant get any spark. i replaced the distributor today and still no spark what else should be replaced...
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I have a 1991 celica that I can not get to start. The car has the 3sfe 2.0 in it that I think came out of an 89 celica. We have put a new starter on this car, alternator, plugs, wires and distributor cap, battery and more onto this car. The car however will push start. When you turn the key everything comes on and it clicks. Nothing else happens.
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I have a 91 celica st and my efi fuse keeps blowing. i would like to know what the efi fuse controls, or what to check first.
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I just purchased 91 Celica GT and have so far been very pleased except for one major problem. I thought Toyotas are suppose to get great gas mileage?. My car is an automatic with 150000 miles on the odometer. I'm getting around 19 mpg on the expressway. I bought this car thinking about good gas mileage. Is this normal mileage.
I've had the car tuned up (new plugs, wires, cap, etc.) I took it to my mechanic who put it on a computer and the emissions read O.K. and no code faults. I took it to a trans shop to see if the trans. was shifting O.K. and it checks out O.K.and the overdrive is working normally. I even double checked the timing to see if maybe the previous owner set the timing wrong when changing the belt. Checks out O.K.
The car seems to run and idle great with no roughness. Is this gas mileage normal and if not, how to improve it. I get better gas mileage from my 91 SUV explorer...
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I have a 1991 Toyota Celica ST184 5SFE that has only just started to have a few issues with the Speedometer.
Issue: When driving the Speedometer may jump up and down and when taking foot off the gas it will instantly drop. Happens now and then it may work again.
I have taken the car to the mechanics and they have confirmed that the car uses a Sensor for the Speedometer.
I took my car to an Auto Electrical Mechanic and he did a few tests on the car using a tool that showed the speed of the Sensor when Driving and he has confirmed that the Sensor is working correctly as he can see the speed while driving.
He mentioned that there is likely to be an issue within the Dash and possibly a loose cable or a bad resistor.
How to troubleshoot this on the Dash and how to remove it correctly without damaging anything.
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I got 91 celica gts recently started to tap when the motor is warm I've changed cap button wires plugs still getting this noise might be chatter but only when warm not there when cold.
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My cooling fan just stoped working the other day (not sure why) i replaced the fuses and relays they are all good. Now when i unhook it from the radiator fan switch it turns on but plug it back in and well it shuts off, i put a new switch to see if it will work but it started running real rough and hard to start so i put the old one back on and nothing changed. I read the book and checked everything but still nothing and why my engine light came on and it started running rough.
its a 91 celica 1.6 (4AFE)
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My car runs fine when it's cold, but once it warms up during idle it will try to cut out and start missing very, very badly. CEL came on and it wouldn't shift into third gear, so had the codes checked, and it said cylinder 1 misfire, cylinder 2 misfire, random multiple misfire. So, changed the spark plugs and air filter, but it's still doing the same thing. Almost didn't make it home, but once I turned the air conditioner off, it ran much better. What should I check next? what could the problem be?
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Which line goes to front brakes and which to rear from the master cylinder?
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Its a 1991 Toyota celica with the 1.6 and 5 speed trans. the motor on cold or hot start up shakes really bad and has a lot of valve chatter. Along with that, the motor does not want to rev at all, almost like you are not even touching the gas, but you have it to the floor. A little back ground on the car is, the car sat for 6 months and i bought it from a friend to drive back and forth to work to keep miles of my supra. He said that the CAT was plugged so i replaced it. I have replaced the coil pack, distro cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs, rotor button, catalytic converter, air intake, and all the air tubes that looked like they were cracking. Now I can start the car, and it does the same thing. I thought it may be out of time, just because that is sort of what its acting like. I have had the motor rev up 3 times since i have had the car. But everytime I do it back fires and DIES, the car will not start til after the car cools down.
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while out of town the big belt that runs the alternater and ac broke and took out the power steering belt. I replaced the big belt but do not know how to do the power steering one. I can hardly see the back sprocket.
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I have a 1991 celica gt 5sfe hatchback. I am getting a surging at constant speed, at idle it's fine as well as acceleration. It only does it when trying to maintain a constant speed in the range of 10-50 mph or so. It's feels like I'm pushing the gas and letting off repeatedly. I took it to get an emissions test and it failed on the low side test with high co2 reading, everything else is fine and one place couldn't do the test because the surging kept kicking the computer out since they have to keep it at a constant 15 mph speed. I think whatever is causing the surging is causing me to fail the low side emissions. Could it be the iecu?
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This is on a '91 Celica GT, 5SFE engine, with front disks and rear drums, and no ABS.
Whenever braking, the front passenger wheel seems to be doing much more of the braking work. In the wet, its very easy to lock up the front pass wheel under pretty mild braking. In the dry the same wheel is always the first to lock up, considerably before the drivers front, and much before they should, based on the deceleration.
I recently had to replace all the brake hoses, and a long run of hard brake line from the engine compartment back to the gas tank. I've bled the system multiple times and doublechecked all the connections, and cannot find any leaks. With no brakes applied, all wheels spin freely.
It seems like the braking circuit for the driver front wheel is not working as well as it should be. Is the passenger rear brake on the same circuit as the driver front? This seems like air still in the lines somewhere.
Could the master cylinder be causing distribution problems between the two circuits?
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