I drive a mile to and from work. Just as I pull in to park the engine dies. It will crank but won't catch. I let sit overnight and the next day it starts ands gets me to just as i am parking at home and dies. What is wrong with my truck? I was thinking clogged fuel filter. Let's a little fuel through the line at night which is used up on the trip. When line empty car dies. Then slowly fills line again over night.
View 8 RepliesI own a toyota camry le automatic that has the engine light on and dies while driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and he diagnosed the error codes p0500 and 720. we fixed the 720 by replacing the trans. speed shaft sensor and replaced the vehicle speed sensor with one we bought from ebay. The rpm will shoot up randomly whilst the check engine light is on. the speedometer works just fine now. car dies when it slows down or at a stop. the rpm goes far below 1000 and i smell gas then i hear it beginning to struggle just to stay on.
The dash lights dim and return to normal then dim again and repeat then it shuts off and the battery light along with oil light come on. turns on fine but when put in reverse or drive it shuts off. it cant go more than 3 minutes without it messing up. when the engine light isn't on it runs just fine but once it turns on i've got about three minutes to get back somewhere safe. also when it does want to die i have to give it gas for it to stay on. i feel a major lag also and the o/d light flashes along with the pwr light.
Started my car the other morning to go to work (4:45 AM) with no problem and drove about one mile. Not wet weather. The engine dies, all lights that come on at start up (engine, alt, etc.) come on and I glided to the side. Tried starting it again - engine tried but did not catch. Tried a few more times and called AAA.
Towed it to a mechanic. Waited about 2 hours for them to open. They were able to drive it the rest of the day with no problem but they had the same thing happen the next morning (yesterday). Then it didn't happen to them today. One more try tomorrow and I hope they can identify it then.
2000 Nissan Altima w/150K miles, gas was less than 1/4 mark, no system lights on.
2002 Camry XLE. 134,000 miles. 1MX-FE 6cyl.
The timing belt was replaced by the Toyota Dealer in Sept 2011 at 101000 miles.
Yesterday after leaving home the engine just died about 1/2 mile from home. No warning, just died.
I tried to start it, the engine will turn over but won't start. It spins freely but doesn't sound like there is any compression.
The coolant reservoir was empty. I checked the fluids a week or so ago and it was full.
So:
1. Does this sound like a timing belt failure?
2. Is it possible that the water pump went out and trashed the timing belt?
3. Or, could the timing belt just be bad?
4. I've read that this engine is a non-inteferrence engine, is that true?
Obviously I'll have the oil changed, but Toyota recommends all this other stuff at 30k and my local dealer wants about 250$ for it. It looks like the same stuff they do with my regular oil changes but now want 250$ to do it. Seems like somewhat of a rip off.
View 14 RepliesIn january I took my 2001 Toyota corolla to the mechanic (that had replaced the engine 5 years ago) because it was using oil and gas mileage was very poor. He gave the car and tune up and right afterward I noticed the car hesitated for just a second within the first mile of driving. After the hesitation it had full power.
Then the check engine light came on with a code for O2 sensor; I had that part replaced about 2-3 years ago. So that was replaced. The next day I was driving on the highway when I heard a pop and lights came on everywhere. The car ran, but when I stopped, it was smoking and wouldn't start. AAA towed it and said the water pump broke and took the serpentine belt with it, and I had it repaired there.
Car continued to to the "hesitation" thing, but I learned to live with it, until 4 weeks later it lost power and wouldn't go more than 5 miles an hour. Very dangerous! Also the check engine light came on - O2 sensor again. The original mechanic towed it back to his shop, has had it over a month. Say sometimes it runs fine and sometimes it really hesitates. My son took the plugs out and said they didn't look new and replaced them with best quality new plugs (mechanic said the plugs looked worn due to problems reported).
He's been a mechanic his whole career and still can't find out the problem. He checked the MAF and said it's fine. I can't afford to put more money into it, but it's worth nothing but junk value now after putting over $1000 into it. I didn't have these issues before I took it to him in January. He has a good reputation, but I don't know what gives.
Is this all a coincidence that it happened at once? What could have happened?
My mom took her 2000 Avalon in for 40,000 mile checkup and was told a pipe had melted onto the manifold and could not be removed. The entire manifold had to be replaced in order to pass GA emission testing. Two different kinds of metal were used in the original construction of the car and when the car was heated, the melting occurred. My parents are expected to replace at their own cost. Any other reports of similar instances and if so, how was it handled? Seems like Toyota should be responsible, doesn't it?
View 30 RepliesMy toyota camry 2003 shakes,vibrating while driving in the front, right side especially, It shakes most at a certain low speeds. The cars is always shaking when it reaches 60mile range upward. what could be the problem??
View 7 RepliesThe oil was changed by a highly reputable shop 2 days ago, (45 miles ago). My wife noticed today that the "Low Oil Pressure" red message flashed 3 times in the last 5 miles of her 10 mile trip (45-50 mph). She stopped the car and called me. I arrived at the parked Prius and saw no oil on the dipstick. I poured a quart of synthetic in and looked under the car to see it pouring out. My finger discovered that there was No Oil Plug. I called the shop and they sent a tow truck, put a new oil plug in, refilled the oil and claim no damage since "the Prius shuts off the gas engine when low oil pressure is sensed". Looking for information about this "shut off feature?" What should I ask from the shop? What should be tested & checked for? How do you test for damage to the bearings? How about a compression test? The car has 100K miles.
View 19 RepliesBasically it dies when thrown into drive. Idle is great, the reverse is great, neutral is great, drive is crappy.
If I let it sit for an hour or so, it will stay in drive without stalling, not for long though.
My MAP sensor connector is messed up I already know that but could it be causing my issue?
Also, I put antifreeze into my engine coolant reserve about 2 weeks ago, yesterday I checked it and it was just about empty. Any reason for that? I haven't noticed any leaks either.
95 GMC Sonoma SLS 2.2L 5 speed distributorless ignitionStart cold, engine purrs, runs for 20-25 min, idling in drive, then dies as if you shut it off. All fluid levels correct. Will not restart until cools off. Have replaced: coils and ignition module, fuel pump and sending unit, ignition cylinder and ignition switch, oil pressure switch. Engine light does not come on. (bulb is not burnt, comes on when starting). Have checked all grounds.
View 5 RepliesVery strange problem for me especially since it's not my car, belongs to my sister. Only code that was set last month indicated the MAF so I cleaned it and the car ran fine. Started to hesitate up hills (steep uphill driveway) so I replaced the fuel filter yesterday and my sister said it drove just fine uphill. Now it stalls whenever put into drive, no codes set and none pending. It will idle in reverse but not in drive.
View 1 RepliesI just bought this 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis with 87k on it. It runs and idles smoothly, good gas mileage, no sign of trouble--except a cold start. It actually starts fine, but when I shift into drive the engine dies. If its 0, it just dies. If I idle it a minute or two, it will do OK. At 20 degrees, it slows like its going to die, but then recovers. Once I have it running in drive (or reverse) it behaves completely normally. Since this thing is presumably computer controlled with no adjustments, I am puzzled. The only clue is that this was an estate-probated car, and probably sat around for 6 months or so. I had no clue on purchase--probably because the seller warmed it up before I got there to try it out.
View 9 RepliesThis is the second time the car has died mid-drive. was getting off an exit on the interstate, popped it into neutral from 5th. suddenly had no power steering/brakes. engine just shut off. pulled over to start it, and engine just turned over. no starting-just the cheerful noise of a cranking engine. nice motorist pulled over and gave me a jump, which worked. The first time was the same story. going into neutral to coast down a hill, and it died. was about to get a jump and it started after sitting for about 10 mins. What is going on here?! fuel filter? pump? I'm at a loss.
View 12 RepliesJust finished putting a fresh 460 backed by a (1977) c6 in my '68 ranger and now I'm having (what I believe is) transmission problems. The truck will idle and rev properly in gear but as soon as I put it in drive or reverse the RPM's drop and it dies. I jacked the back end up and put it in both drive and reverse and the tire's spin, but if I try and apply the brake to stop them the truck will die. My suspicion is that the torque converter is locked up all the time. I have managed to get it in gear and give it gas and it'll drive and shift fine, until I come to a stop. My question, what would cause the converter to do this? It's the same transmission and converter that I pulled out a month ago and I never had any issues before...
View 4 RepliesI got a 2000 f350 7.3. Cranks up fine runs fine put in reverse and can back up fine put it in drive and it bogs down and dies. What is causing that.
View 2 Replies'91 Toyota 2wd Pickup, 22R-E Engine. 1 yr. ago out of the blue it would start and idle, but if I give it any gas it would die. Shop had trouble figuring it out, then replaced Mass Airflow Sensor; problem re-occurred after once after this repair, but could not be reproduced at shop. 1 yr. later, driving along and engine quits without any warning. Very hard to start, but restarts once, drives about one more block, dies. Unable to restart; engine will crank and catch, but after about 1 second dies. Tried unplugging Mass Airflow Sensor; no change. Left sitting overnight, next morning it starts right up. Problem seems similar to a year ago, though this time it wouldn't start and idle, it would just start and immediately die. In every instance it was rainy/slushy and cold.
View 8 RepliesI've had this issue for a while now but is seems to be getting worse the older the truck gets. I've had the battery, and alternator tested multiple times and they always receive passing grades. If the truck sits for a period of several days or more without being started, the battery is sometimes dead when I go to start it up and go somewhere. It is really frustrating because it seems to happen and very random times, when I least expect it.
Sometimes I can go start my truck without any problems at all after a week or so. Sometimes it won't start if I leave it alone for only a day or two. Usually after I jump start the truck it will run fine and start for the next several weeks. Is it possible that there is a short somewhere causing the battery to drain sometimes? Also, there is sometimes a buzzing sound that comes from under the hood when it is warm outside with the engine off and the truck at rest... could they be related?
I have driven small Toyota 4X4 pickups since 1980 including an '89 for the past 25 years and > 200,000 miles. One day a couple of months ago it would crank but would not start although battery and starter seem fine. I did some basic testing eventually measuring the ignition coil resistance (within published range) and inspecting the distributor cap (looked fine). Upon reassembly, it started right up and ran fine for a few weeks. I hadn't really done anything beside cleaning the rotor and cap contacts, moving around the wiring while in the process.
A few weeks ago I was driving in traffic just a few miles from home and it momentarily lost power twice within a mile. Check engine light was noted the second time. I was busy watching the cars ahead of me the first time. Both times it resumed running on it's own and I continued on. A couple of weeks later it died three times within a few miles from home.
The first two times I was able to pull off out of traffic. Several minutes later, I was able to restart the engine. The third time I was stuck in a turn lane at an intersection, police arrived right away and the vehicle was towed to the dealer where I had purchased it only two miles away. They have been unable to reproduce the problem but believe they have eliminated the fuel filter and fuel pump as the cause. They have driven the vehicle several miles and left it running for an hour and a half with no problems noted. No diagnostic codes were recovered.
They now want me to retrieve the undiagnosed, unrepaired vehicle. We know it will fail again, probably under the worst possible circumstances. In heavy traffic, a multi-vehicle crash with associated injuries or deaths could result. It's like if the vehicle itself doesn't tell them what to do, they don't know how to approach such a problem on their own any more. I'm not in a position to pour unlimited funds into a vehicle I have recently replaced (with a 2014 Tacoma). There must be a logical approach beyond checking the fuel filter and pump but they seem clueless. I can't safely drive the vehicle and won't offer it for sale until the problem is identified and corrected.
I had my minivan stop running while i was on the freeway. My electrical seemed a bit off, the speed decreased and it slowly died. I tested the battery and it was fine, tested the alternator and it failed. I changed the alternator and still wouldn't start. I changed the battery as well and it worked for about 2 days and then it did the same thing. Radio started to flicker, all the lights turned on and the car decreased until it didn't run anymore?What could this be? Bad gearing? A faulty brand new alternator?
View 4 RepliesAt idle (like at a stop sign or sitting in the drive way) my '92 Toyota revs up and dies down (kind of a "brrrrvvvvvv-buh... brrrrvvvvvvvv-buh") We have been fixing it up and got ahold of another Toyota that has a decent motor but the body, frame, and everything else is shot. We are pulling a starter out of it and was wondering if the part that causes the gallop could be replaced too.
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