Toyota :: Can't Fully Turn AC Off?
Jun 6, 2014
For a while now, I noticed that if i set the climate control to a lower temp, the air coming out of the vents would be cool, cooler than the outside temperature, even if the AC is off. And when I turn the temperature up all the way, it lets in engine heat as it should. For example today, it was around 26 degrees outside (79F) and I set the turned down the climate control to 20 degrees (68F). The air coming out of the vent felt quite cool, and when I manually turned the AC on, it of course felt even cooler. The fans were taking in air from the outside, not circulating from the cabin.
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I just recently swapped out my Automatic Transmission in my 91 MR2. The person i received it from had the system completely drained, including the torque converter. I found this out kinda hard the way, knowing that the pan was empty, but not expecting the torque converter to be empty as well. After filling up the system, i thought i may have overfilled it, because the fluid level was reading above the hot mark on the dipstick. So i drained the fluid and replaced the transmission filter. I put in 3 quarts of fluid and added the 4th quart of fluid over time, mainly letting the car run and warm up to operating temp and then adding fluid and letting it settle.
I kept doing this until i got to the full mark on hot. So this is where I am at now... On a cold start, the transmission will chatter in all gears, from park to low. Give it about minute or so to start warming up the chattering slowly goes away. When its at operating temperature, there is no chattering at all in any of the gears, and it presumes to be normal and fine. It takes about 5 minutes to fully warm up to operating temperature. Should i worry about the chatter at the beginning while its warming up? i have to drive the car because I want to be sure that the transmission is okay. I have thought about adding an additive, but all that i have read is just bad results, and failed transmissions.
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Still P0303 code after: New spark plugs, new spark plug wiring, new coils, new injectors, full tune up. 99 Corolla 147,000 miles. What else could it be? o2 senor? or maybe intake manifold leak? valve leak? what am I missing?
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The car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).
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1993 Chevrolet S10 Blazer will not turn over the battery is fully charged when key is turned there is nothing not a sound only smoke coming from a wire on top of fender under hood.
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I have searched the Owners Manual, forum and internet about this, but I can't come up with a solution. Perhaps I am not using the correct terminology. I also have an ALLDATA DIY subscription on this vehicle, but I could not find any instance of this occurring to be able to troubleshoot. I though that there might have been a light out somewhere.
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When I stop the car, sloshing noise come from back of 2006 Toyota Camry after filling full tank of gas. Tried couple times, I can still hear the noise feels like liquid sloshing noise coming from fuel tank. Even after I parked the car, tried to push the back side of my 2006 Toyota Camry, sounds like the fuel is sloshing from the tank. Is it normal? I never heard about this before, maybe I didn't notice. It was not loud but audible.
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I recently recognized a clicking noise from the passenger door when I open it half way or even fully.
up to now I'm still assuming its a lubing issue as it is really cold in here Ottawa, Canada.
I have read a thread that was talking about the same issue and the guy found that there was a bolt wasn't tighten enough from the factory that caused the clicking sound.
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Today, I just picked up my 2014 prius. Basically, when I do a right/left turn on the car, when accelerating out of the turn, the steering wheel does not fully return to the center position (its approximately in the one/eleven o'clock position). Also, if I leave the wheel straight, and drive straight, the car will drive straight and not pull towards the side so I don't think its an alignment issue. I'm not sure if this is normal, or if its happening just because they car is new or just because I'm not accelerating hard enough out of the turn (I always stayed in the eco range with the HSI. )
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I have a 07 toyota avalon that will not start. About a week ago my wife goes to start the car and nothing. She got a jump and it worked fine for a couple of days. Then she was driving on Oct 25th and the car died out, so due to the battery being less than 6 months old the next step was the alternator. Had the alternator tested and it had to be replaced. We replaced it and it still will not turn on.
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My 1987 Toyota Celica ST will not seem to turn over. When it has the push button addition that takes the power from the battery straight to the seloniod it works. But when i set the starter back up to the ignition switch and set it up factory style it will not spin over. it sends the 12 volts needed to start it but yet will not turn it over.
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Last night my 2007 Toyota 4Runner started up on its own. The vehicle had been completely turned off, the keys were not in the ignition, and it doesn't even have a remote start. After a little while, the vehicle then turned itself off. It continued to turn itself on and off throughout the night. What could be wrong with my SUV?
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I have a 93 4Runner, and it won't start all it will do is turn over, But won't start, my dad has tried everything we could think of It has gas, an new battery and new battery cables...
What is the location of the MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR, AND THE MAIN COMPUTER...
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I have an 89' Toyota Camry. Left lights on, dead battery. Tried to jump in the dark, might have crossed wires. Blew main fuse, replaced it and battery. Car cranks but does not turn over. I do not think it is getting spark, could not see it. What's wrong?
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A month or two ago I noticed my car starting to turn over a bit slower. Then finally woke to car that would not start. I tapped on the starter and it turned over. I took the car to local AutoZone store, tested the electrical system while the car was running...Starter - Good, Alternator - Good, Battery had a few dead cells. I also took out the alternator and starter to have them bench tested. Both passed. So I put everything back and got a new battery. Seemed to have fixed the problem for a couple weeks. Then today go out to start the car and the same thing. Car won't turn over...pop the hood a little tap on the starter and it turns over just fine. Same cycle all day...Turn off car, then wont turn over unless I tap the starter. So I take it out again, and take it to the local auto store...Starter passes again.
It seems like it must be the Starter if the tap works, but I thought the bench tests were pretty accurate? All the cables and connectors look to be in really good shape and if it were the Starter Relay, Alternator, or Battery I wouldn't think that tapping the Starter would make any difference.
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My 89 Corolla started overheating when I turn on the AC. If I don't use the AC, the temp. is fine. 2-3 min. after turning on AC, temp. gauge rises and I must turn off AC. My husband, a devout CT listener has some mechanical skills & ck'd it out. He replaced the fan relay, but that didn't fix it. History: the 1st time it happened, the AC was on and blowing cool air, suddenly, the air wasn't cool and I noticed the temp. rising and turned off the AC. I stopped and checked the radiator fluid and it was low, so filled the overflow with coolant. Drove home (30 min.) and it was fine.
A week later, same thing - I'm on the freeway, air is blowing cool, then not and heats up. Ck'd radiator - fluid level is fine. Problem was somewhat intermittent as it wasn't happening 'all the time'. Yesterday, same thing again on the way to see the dentist 40 min. out in mid-afternoon sweltering heat. Had to drive there and back with no AC - quite miserable. Replaced the thermostat not too long ago and the radiator also had to be replaced year before last. I have health issues and really can't handle the heat and fumes and must have AC in this climate. We can't afford to take it to a mechanic. If this car goes, them I'm car-less. It's a great car and keeps on going - 240,000+ miles.
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1995 toyota camry 4 cylinder engine - My car was working fine yesterday, but today when I inserted my key; the key won't turn at all. I have try changing the shift control to neutral and jerk the steeling wheel. I have also went and copy my key. When I inserted the new key, it finally turn all the way, but then it got stuck in the ignition. After a few hour I got the new out of the ignition and try again. This time the new key can't turn all the way. My uncle believe that the key ignition sensory is the problem.
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My wife's '01 Corolla is having trouble starting. It doesn't turn over. At first I thought it might be the alternator, but when I prime it by pushing the gas, it starts right up. I'm thinking fuel pump or fuel line. It was also having some catalytic converter / 02 sensor issues, so wondering if that could be it too.
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My car engine wont turn over. I can hear the starter going when I turn the key but the engine wont start. My battery is old and when I read volt meter in my car the line is right in the middle. When I tried getting jump started by a friend the engine still wont turn over. I'm wondering if this is due to a bad battery that drained because of cold weather or something else. 1995 Toyota 4runner 251,900 miles...
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I drive a 1997 well-maintained Toyota. This is the 1st time I've had this problem. It started yesterday. I started my car, as usual to stop somewhere for 5 minutes. When I returned I tried to start the car and got "nothing". No sounds, but the lights/radio/dashlight worked. I tried several times, gave up and called AAA.
I took a walk around the block to see if my mechanic was open on Saturday in case I had to tow my car there. It wasn't. I went back to my car to wait for AAA. However, this time the car started immediately, and I drove home after cancelling AAA. I drove the car the rest of the day/evening on & off with no problems.
Today, I tried to start it in the AM and once again it did not start (like the previous day). My neighbor suggested that the ignition & steering wheel are related and could be something to do with that. Anyway, I tried turning the wheel to the right/left, etc. but could not get it started today as I did the day before,
Tomorrow I plan to have it towed (or maybe it will start again) to my mechanic. What could be wrong? Never had this type of thing happen before. The battery is good.
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So when turning the key there is no response or noises coming from the vehicle. The battery shows 12.3 volts. What are possible problems? We were also having new issues yesterday with the vehicle not getting enough power after getting dusted with snow repeatedly in a snow storm and from passing vehicles.
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