Toyota - Camry :: 2009 - Died While At A Complete Stop On The Road
Jul 28, 2011
I have a 2009 Toyota Camry with 53 thousand miles on it. It has had new tires, regular oil changes and new filters, and as of yesterday, a new battery. That is all the work done on it. Yesterday it wouldn't start - I jump started it, then it died while at a complete stop on the road. I jump started it again and got a new battery (they said that the battery was bad).
Today I was driving, and when I have the AC on and I brake, the car violently shakes and feels like it is going to die on me. It works fine as long as the AC is not on. When the AC is turned on, the car shakes in Park as well. I don't know what to check or do. My fluids are fine (I was really low on coolant today but I filled it up). 2 weeks ago, I did hit a REALLY hard bump on the highway that felt like I blew out my tires. I am currently driving it without the AC on.
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My problem is my 6 CL died going down the road I got to stop light & she quitly died. I got it started after a few tries & made it to BK, kept trying to start sounded like choked for gas. Hour later starts goes 1/2 mil dies call towtrk. Changed fuel pump(not so bad) fired her up, first couple times ran a sec. and died.
3rd time a charm it started & idled (a lttl ruf) for 20 min.& wife takes it to gas station shut off & restarted no problem & back home. 1 hr later I get in to run an errand & it dies I push it hm pop hood seems awfully hot. Is there a way to test the CPS unit?
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I am the owner of a 1996 Toyota 4runner. Recently, when I bring the vehicle to a complete stop, the entire SUV shudders, almost lunges, forward. At times it feels like the brakes are trying to re-engage. Could really use some pointers on this issue.
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Just took my V6 03 XLE to a mechanic to change the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs. Runs great, like it always did, and for the record I just got to about 80,000 miles a week or two ago.
One problem after I got this all done a couple of hours ago. Every time I try to accelerate from a complete stop there's this gurgling noise that sounds like it's coming from the inside of the dash or maybe under the dash.
It only happens as soon as I accelerate from a complete stop for about 2-3 seconds, and then it seems to go away.
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I have been hearing a sound on and off now for months that happens right before the car comes to complete stop and sounds like the ABS 'chatter' sound like you hear if they come on in snowy roads. Problem is roads are dry. Literally last 1 second. Will happen when stopping hard or slowly. Maybe once or twice a week. I can't reproduce it happen no matter how hard I try. Brakes are in good shape as are tires and it isn't like I am locking them up or anything. No ABS light or traction control light showing. No codes thrown either.
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Back in June I replaced all 4 brakes and rotors. Now all of sudden I hear a loud grinding noise in the front end only when I'm braking to a complete stop.
I took all 4 tires off and then took off the pads. The pads and rotors are all still brand new and have very minor normal wear. Also the calipers still look good.
I then put everything back together and went for a test drive. The grinding noise is still there. It's very loud and only when I come to a complete stop.
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I have had my ecoboost for a couple months now. Overall I am very happy with it but I have noticed a shudder recently when accelerating and when coming to a complete stop at times. I only feel it when accelerating from a stop or when stopping completely. Kind of feels like something slips. I think I recall reading about this before on the 2011 and 2012s somewhere. What is causing this and is there a fix or is it just the way these trucks are?? I can deal with it but it is kind of annoying when driving in traffic.
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I noticed that the car take a very long time to come to a complete stop and I have to press the pedal hard to stop. The brakes have approximately 11,000 miles on them in city driving conditions. Also the slightest bit I relax my foot, the car begins to creek and move. I have to have a very firm foot on it so it won't move. Is it time for new brakes or should I first begin to look at other potential problems? Also I noticed the car pulls to right slightly could that be related?
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Bought the car used a few months ago with a little less than 72k miles. At 72k miles, I replaced all brake pads. Car now has 75k miles on it. Wife just got back from a 1k mile road trip with it.
I took it for a little ride, and noticed this problem about 3 times, it doesn't happen every time. There is no vibration or anything when slowing down and stopping. But, a few times, when the car was at, or almost at a complete stop, the brake pedal would feel like it was buzzing a little bit, and I could hear a springy sound. I tried to reproduce it with hard braking, but couldn't. Seemed to only happen with slow, gradual breaking, and when the car was just about at a complete stop. Brake fluid is full. No lights on dash. Asked my wife if she slammed breaks at all, or had any problems, she said no. Then she said she experienced what I did once, when she was at a rest area, stopped
The only thing I can think to compare it to is how the brake pedal feels and sounds if you lock up your brakes, and the ABS is doing its thing....which I haven't ever done with this car...
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I'm trying to fix a transmission problem with my work truck. It's a company owned, 2011 f150 super cab, 2wd, 5.0 and 6 speed auto. It currently has 225K miles. The problem is very random occurring 2-3 times per week, usually happens on start up, and goes away after a hand full of engine restarts. It has happened twice on the freeway, the transmission releases and a complete loss of power and coasts to a stop. At the same time, the speedometer goes to zero regardless of vehicle speed. Normally, when it happens, the speedometer does not read, all the mpg, miles to E, and related meters show bars "-----". The vehicle starts and takes off ok, but when it tries to shift, it just releases and the truck coasts to a stop. It will repeat this for a while.
After several restarts, the truck goes back to normal. This has happened a couple dozen times now. The wrench and check engine light came on during the very first instance, but the auto shop said there were no trouble codes stored. They kept it for a week, and said it never reoccurred. I have a lousy video that shows, when this happens, the trans starts in 2nd, jumps to 5th, then 2nd, then 5th. I am past due for a new work truck and this one is on its way out, but has to last another couple of months! This truck has otherwise been very problem free and well maintained. I'm actually thinking of trying to pick it up cheap, if the repair is not too bad.
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I own a 2015 camry SE - 4k miles on it. Right from the second month I felt like the brake was stiffer and I always felt like I am going to rear end the vehicle in the front. Last one month it became really worst. The pedal feels lot stiff and I have to press hard to bring to a complete stop. Brake is not very responsive. I feel like its still rolling even after applying the brakes and I have to apply the brake very hard to come to a stop. It looks to me like there is a response delay between applying brake pedal and actual stop. I used to drive a Civic and this is my first Toyota so I am not sure whether this issue is common in camry.
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We purchased a certified pre-owned 2009 Toyota Matrix (S--AWD) in January 2012, with approx 17K miles (a lease turn in). We purchased a platinum vehicle service plan that covers the car through 2017 or 100K miles. We had the oil changed at 22K miles (May 2012) per the recommended 5K miles at a private garage, not a Toyota dealer. This place had done work on my previous vehicle, a 1994 Corolla, for 6 years and had proven to be reliable and trustworthy, in my opinion.
Last Friday, my husband was driving our daughter to daycare, and 5 miles from our home, the oil and engine lights came on in close succession, and the engine seized and died. We had roadside assistance through the warranty, and it was towed to the nearest Toyota dealer, which is not the one we purchased the vehicle at. They informed me that the car had no oil filter and that therefore nothing that happened to the car was covered under warranty, and said it was clearly the fault of whomever had changed the oil.
Problem: The oil had been changed 4 months, and 4K miles before this happened.Problem: There is no evidence of an oil leak in our garage, our driveway, the driveway at my workplace: There is no evidence of a catastrophic oil dump along the 5 mile route before the car died: We cannot find an oil filter along this path either, we have been along it on bicycle looking in the weeds
So the car was in our garage with no oil leaking at 6:45 am, and somehow ended up out of oil, with no filter, in 5 miles, by 7 am. The car had been driving fine--I am the one who usually drives it. I actually drove it 80 miles on Tuesday b.c I had forgotten my laptop at home and had to make the trip to and from work twice (22 miles one way). Then my husband had Weds-Fri off and it was driven 12 miles to and from daycare on Weds and Thurs, and the 5 miles on Friday before it died. No lights were on when I drove it Tuesday, and he says no lights were on before the point that it died.
The guy who changed the oil says the he cannot see how they are at fault, b.c there is no way the car could go so far and so long with an improperly installed filter (it is the screw in style filter, not a cartridge), and that if it were loose, as soon as the seal was broken, oil would spray everywhere. He went and looked at the car at the dealer, and looked at the spot where the car broke down and said there is not enough oil there. There is about enough in spots that would cover an area around a foot in diameter. Toyota says it could have been a slow leak if it was not screwed on right--but where is the evidence for an oil leak? Shouldn't the oil light have gone off previously if oil was low? The oil change guy says there's no way there would be a slow leak, the oil would have all dumped out and killed the engine long before the filter somehow fell off. He keeps asking me where is the oil, and where is the filter? Which I would love to have the answers to those questions, but I don't. He says unless I can produce the filter to show it is the one he put in, and that it is banged up to show it came off the car, he won't pursue an insurance claim. Toyota says it sounds weird but since he is the last one that touched the car, it's his fault. Right now we are in the middle and it is looking like we are going to be stuck with the bill for a new engine.
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I have a Camry 99, LX 2.2L (99k miles on it) that just died while I was puling out of my driveway. Unfortunately, it wont start anymore. I had problems with alternator for the past 2 years. Last year I just replaced the alternator and the battery. It all went well after that. A check engine light for EGR Valve came on, replaced the valve but the light comes back after 30 mins. Anyway, the car runs so I ignored the check engine light. Then this problem occurred. Before going to the alternator replacement again, I first did a tune up.
Replaced all 4 plugs, high tension wires, and the coils. The engine seems to choke at first start, then the rest of the trials are the same old cranking. The battery seems ok, pulls 13.8v when the engine is not running (I couldn't make it start anyway). I could not check the engine light too because the engine wont start. I may say I'm the guy who do small repairs, changed my own timing belt and water pump and do my own oil changes. But this one caught me on a dead end.
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I have a 1989 Toyota Camry station wagon. I was driving it tonight on a slow neighborhood street and it just died. When I tried to start it back up, it won't start. I have power, all lights and things at full strength. When trying to start it it makes a high-pitched whirring screeching sound. I don't know where the starter is located, but the sound seems to be coming from around the spark plugs or behind/under them.
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Really scary, had my son in the car. Dash read "Check hybrid system". Reading some posts make me think that it may just be the 12V. Had it towed to my house.
60k GEN3 2010 Prius III
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Every now and then (1-2 times a week) it stalls when I come to a stop. If I catch it before it stalls and rev it over 4K then it is fine. If not, I just need to restart the car. What is causing this sporadic problem?
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I have a 2005 ford f250 6.0 I was driving back home from a interview and my truck died at a stop light it would crank but no start I tried replacing the stc fitting didn't work so the I replaced the ipr still didn't work bought a new hpop still didn't work I'm lost at this point I have low pressure oil pump is working new icp, what is going on?
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We purchased a used 2002 Prius from our brother-in-law's family and we're the third owners. The car has around 80K and we've owned it for about a month and a half. Before we picked the car up they took it to a dealer and checked it out. They put a new aux battery in the trunk, changed the oil and gave it the green light. We picked it up in Philadelphia and drove it home to Chicago.
Today my wife was returning from a trip down to Missouri. After a stop for gas and refreshments and just getting back on the interstate the car started to die. The warning lights came on and the battery indicator as well as the red triangle. After sitting a little while she was able to start it again but only made it to the next exit where it officially died and needed to be towed to a dealer just outside of St. Louis. It was 104 degrees out this afternoon and she did have the AC, radio and other necessities running during the trip but she had gone less than 100 miles today before it died.
It sucks to be 300 miles away (I'm home) from the car/dealer not really knowing what they'll find or say they found.
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I just bought a 2000 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder with 150K miles. It drove great for a week. Now it wants to cut off when I'm at a stoplight or stop sign. When I press the gas there is no acceleration and very sluggish. This is when it wants to cut off and does about half the time. At normal driving speeds it drives great. The Check engine light also came on. Advance Auto Parts store read the codes and it's P440, p441, p446 and P106. All have to do with evaporative emission control.
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I bought a 1996 Toyota Camry this summer. While I was away, my parents would start it every once in a while, and the last time they did the lights would not stop flashing. The hazard lights, glove box, clock are all flashing. I have the battery disconnected until I can figure it out.
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We have a 1992 Toyota Camry which runs great except that it stalls at every stop light. We have had the engine, distributor, coil, coolant temperature sensor; computer, and EGR valve checked. Yesterday the mechanic stated there was nothing wrong with the EGR Valve, what to check next?
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