This car was bought new 2008. All is well w/ everything. It's a joy to drive. However, we were told last week, that since the car is 8 years old (or soon to be), we should worry about the hybrid battery failing and should consider a new car. So, that's the question. Repair or replace?
View 10 Repliesi have a 2006 with almost 200k miles. Got the red triangle, check engine light, and the red car at the top of the MFD. I ran the codes and got P3000. Does this sound like traction battery failure? The car still turns on and ICE still cycles off and on.
View 19 RepliesA few weeks ago, I received the triangle light in my 2007 Prius with 125k miles on it. When I took it to the dealer, they said that the hybrid battery needed to be replaced. A new battery was ordered & installed by the dealer, which took a couple weeks as the battery wasn't in stock. When I picked up the Prius this week, within driving it a couple miles, it was apparent the A/C wasn't working. I took it right back to the dealer who said they'd look into it. When the Service sales guy started it again, it made a very strange noise as well, which it never did before. The dealer has come back and said that not only has the A/C Compressor out but the ABS actuator is also failing. They are saying this has nothing to do with the battery replacement but both these items were working fine before having the battery replaced
View 1 RepliesI recently purchased Toyota Camry Hybrid -2008, pre-purchase inspection done by Toyota dealer. Today, my car refuses to turn ignition on (I have keyless start). After several trials, it turned on. I switched off the car and tired after 5 mins. Again it gave the trouble first time, worked second time. What could cause this issue? It's still under hybrid warranty.
View 5 RepliesI drive a 2001 Toyota Camry with about 110,000 miles. About a year ago the check engine light came on and indicated a problem with the rear O2 sensor (the exact OBD code escapes me right now). Had the sensor replaced and a month later the same one failed. Replaced it again and 2 weeks later it failed again. I am now on the fourth rear O2 sensor and the check engine light is on again with the same code. So, clearly the problem isn't the actual sensor. I have heard it might be the ECU, but what else could be causing this type of problem?
View 4 RepliesI just had an OBD code pulled on my 2010 Camry and it turns out that my Heated O2 sensor for Bank 1 Sensor 2 is failing. I'd rather do this myself if I can but I can't figure out where this thing is. Is this something I can access myself and swap out? Or does this need to be fixed by a mechanic?
View 9 RepliesHalogen Headlights keep failing on my 2007 Prius Hybrid. I'm starting a file on this because my headlights fail waaaaay too often. I first bought replacements from O'Rileys (don't know the brand) and one failed after only 3 months. . . they would not replace the bulb for free so I did buy one more bulb there. The next time I purchased two Philips bulbs at another parts store. The last ones I bought were from Napa Auto parts and I have to replace one of those. I am wishing I had kept better records because there have been more burned out low beam headlamps. . .never use the brights.
View 9 RepliesI haven’t been on these boards very often since getting my used 2008 Prius because until now it has been very kind to me in terms of not needing mechanical repairs. Unfortunately that good streak seems to have come to an end. Driving home Monday evening (after ~30min freeway driving), my master system warning light came on, accompanied by the hybrid system warning light. I didn’t know what the latter was – had to look it up – but I immediately pulled to the shoulder. The car was driving normally, however. Since shops and dealers were closed for the evening, after much debate I ended up having the car towed to a family friend’s body shop; they were still there and had a scanner to check the error codes for me. My car was on the side of the freeway for well over an hour with hazard lights on and the dome light on and off occasionally as we got in and out of the car. By the time the tow truck arrived, I discovered that the 12V battery seemed dead; car wouldn’t boot up all the way, wouldn’t shift to neutral and didn’t want to power down – I had to try turning it off upwards of 10 times. I was surprised, given just the hazard light and limited dome light usage. We jumped it, got it in neutral and on the truck.
At the body shop, they said there were no error codes related to the hybrid battery; something about transmission that wasn’t clarified, and errors for low voltage on the 12V battery. With everything off, it measured 10-something V; something higher when turned on, but they believed the problem was a dead 12V battery. I was surprised that it would suddenly give out in the middle of driving, but we went ahead and replaced it the next day. I picked up the car Tues evening, and had no problems driving it home, to work the next morning. Unfortunately, during my drive home – strangely at almost exactly the same location as the first time – the same hybrid system warning light came back on. I’d driving about 70 miles with it off at this point before the reappearance. This time I didn’t pull over to the side (had enough of that before) but rather drove a few more miles to a parking lot where the car has now stayed overnight. I note that the car seemed to drive perfectly normally during that time; no loss of power.
Filled the gas tank as full as I could get it. Done this many times. Now the fuel gauge is stuck on (F) full.
View 1 RepliesSo I got a 2008 model, only owner. It has 107K miles. I've noticed something the last couple months now. When I park the car in the garage after coming home from work it has a full charge, about 3 bars below top, it's at the max of the blue color.
When I start the car in the morning it still displays the same level. But after driving down the road about 3 blocks it seems to update slowly and drops the level, sometimes down to the brown, about 3 bars high. The car will run rough for a while almost every morning now since it's not using the hybrid battery to smooth things out.
Ever since owning the car I've noticed it can run rough sometimes normally, like when you're at a train crossing and the battery drops to 2 or 3 and the engine powers on to charge it up a bit. When I drive away you hear the engine a lot louder than usual as it seems to be running on engine only until the hybrid battery gets sufficiently charged and you feel a lack of power as you accelerate.
Just purchased a used 2008 HH - about 85000 miles. Seems to work perfectly except there is a very loud hum that sounds that it is coming from the rear. Starts to be noticeable at 30 MPH and gets louder up to about 55, and then isn't as noticeable, perhaps due to normal road noise.
View 2 RepliesMy drive belt broke and I replaced it with a new one and now ac wont blow cold air. It was working fine before. I can hear the compressor running but not blowing cold air.
View 1 RepliesI am new to this group but have been reading the posts for the past three months. I recently picked up my Camry Hybrid. So far all is going well expect my ability to pair my Treo 650 to the hands free function in the car. I know how to pair other others to the phone. It looks like the phone picks up the device. After entering the code and clicking ok the phone appears to be fine. The speaker in the car to pair my Treo 650 to the hands free function in the carsomething like still searching. Then it says the search has failed.
I checked the software version and it says Trea650 - 1.04a-VZW. I am on Verizon.
2008 Camry Hybrid
From day 1 owning the car used at 50k I hear vibration sounds coming from the rear deck (behind the rear seats but not inside the trunk) when moving from a stop for the first few seconds of acceleration.
what exactly is the root cause and how to fix it?
The battery gauge on my 2007 seems to be dropping much faster than it used to. I can back out of my driveway with full green, and be down to purple in two miles of <45MPH driving. It also seems to recharge faster, as if the 'window' of usable charge has become much narrower.
I took it in for the 45K service, and asked the dealer to investigate. The tech wrote that everything is fine, and that this behavior is normal because "this is deep cycle battery".
Two questions: If the main battery fails completely, will the car still be driveable or will I be stranded at that point?
The little 12V battery is still the original that came with the car. Could it cause the above symptoms?
I have a 2005 Prius with 140,000 km (90,000 miles). The car was dented during hail and so it spent one month in the bodyshop. The damage was entirely cosmetic and the car ran perfectly when I dropped it off.
View 12 RepliesTypically, our GX cranks and starts fine...after turning over once or twice. However, recently it's been slow to start. Today, I felt as if there weren't enough CCA. Battery is 2 yrs old (about 23K miles old) and the alternator was replaced about a yr and a half ago. I suspect it's the battery, however what are the symptoms of a failing starter? How difficult it is to replace the brushes or change it with a remanufactured one on a 2006? Is there a DIY on the starter? I just want to cover all the bases...just in case.
View 1 RepliesI have a 220k 1994 Corolla with I have come across a couple problems recently. It all started about a week ago when I decided to change my rear brake shoes. The old ones turned out to be all cracked and everything but were generally in pretty good shape in terms of wear. Anyways I put the new shoes in (my first brake job) and tightened up the e brake cable and went for a test drive. I walked away extremely satisfied, the e brake worked perfect which was my main reason for changing the shoes in the first place.
Basically the whole thing worked perfectly until 2 days later. I was driving for about 8 miles when my brake pedal suddenly fell through to the floor (or pretty close) at first I even thought I hit the clutch pedal! anyways after pumping the pedal a few times my pedal feel returned about 70% and after another maybe 10 seconds braking power was lost again until I pumped the pedal. So lucky for me my destination was a 1/4 mile away so I parked and checked the fluid level; it was at the max mark, then I check the wheels/drums and they were REALLY hot.
Also the driver's side drum had a faint smell of brake fluid. Anyways about an hour later I went for a short drive and the brakes worked fine so an hour after that I drove the 8 miles home and about 1/8 of a mile from home same thing happened; brake pedal basically goes almost down to the floor until pumped. My thoughts were that the new shoes were constantly rubbing and the old fluid overheated and caused failure so I flushed the system and put new fluid in and adjusted the shoes "in" with the click adjuster bolt. I had a really hard time getting the drums of to begin with. That and I loosened the e brake cable just in case.
So the next morning I drive about 5 miles without using the brakes pulled over to check that the drums were not heating up anymore (they weren't) so I thought I had fixed it. Well 3 days later (last night) I was experiencing the rear brake stickiness again. Basically when I was just moving from a stop where I had used the e brake to secure the car, I could literally feel that the rear brakes were stopping the car pretty aggressively and sure enough after a few more miles my brake pedal fell through so I poured water on the drums and they started to let off lots of steam, even after like 10 bottles!
So I limped to my friends house at 12:00 AM and jacked my car for a look. Again the drums really didn't want to come off and once we did get them off my friends dad inspected them and could find anything wrong with my installation. The conclusion that we came to was that the auto adjustor for the shoes makes the shoes too tight and they rub. So I am thinking maybe this is cause for the fluid to overheat and boil, causing the pedal to fall through. The pedal fell has gotten much worse since I bled the system 3 days ago so that may be an indicator. Did a test this morning for 5 miles and the drums were just below lukewarm.
I have a 2008 Camry hybrid. It comes with the auto Headlight function where the car will automatic turn the headlight on/off at night and day time. But, but for some reason it doesn't work when I first got the car (pre-owned). I check all the wires/fuse, everything is good, but it just not working. The headlight and on/off switch itself works good. I just wonder if it has an option you can disable/enable it in the console or something else that I should look for?
View 7 RepliesCould these Knock sensor low input codes be caused by a failing battery? My battery was dead 2 days ago. I charged it and it has been starting but today after starting a couple of times in a row these codes came up. I've never had any codes before and it was running fine. It is a 2002 Suburban with the 6.0 engine.
View 11 Replies2005 Scion xA 127,000 miles
Problem started with speedometer not working occasionally. Now it works about 75% of the time. Often if I park for several minutes and restart the car the speedometer will work again. Sometimes after I start the car at first it won't work. Then I hear a click and a whir and it works.
Recently the gas gauge has been failing occasionally. I start the car and the needle doesn't move. I restart the car immediately and it works.
Only once the tachometer didn't work at first. Then the needle jumped up suddenly. I found at least 14 possible causes online:
1. Relay
2. ECU
3. Loose wire or connector in cluster
4. Speed sensor
5. Fuse
6. Gauge
7. Electrical short––recalibrate speedometer
8. Faulty speedometer head
9. Bad transducer
10. Dirty connection
11. Body control module (BCM) hung up
12. Bad ground
13. Bad stepper motor
14. Bad alternator diodes
QUESTION 1: Given that the problem has gotten worse over time, it's intermittent, and now two gauges are involved, what's the most likely cause?
QUESTION 2: A garage told me it's illegal to buy a used instrument panel and have the odometer reset. Is that true?
QUESTION 3: If not illegal, what's the cheapest way to get a reliable IP and get it reset? I can't afford a new cluster at a dealer.