Toyota - Camry :: 2006 - Horn Toots When Cruise Engaged?
Oct 21, 2011
Strange problem that just happened last evening. When I push the cruise button the horn toots and the panel cruise light comes on/off. However, the cruise control will not work.
If I toot the horn, again the cruise panel light comes on/off as well. The cruise control worked fine earlier that day.
What this may be and where to start looking? My first thought is to disconnect the battery for a few hours and hopefully reset the computer.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I'm at my wit's end trying to install cruise control in my 2009 Corolla. I thought it was a relatively easy install, but then after putting the airbag in place, I find that the horn no longer works. I test out the cruise control, and the green "Cruise" lights up on the dashboard..but it doesn't actually work.
View 9 Replies
When the cruise light flashes the engine ideals at a lower RPM. Usually not a big deal, but when I'm in reverse the car will often stall out. The flashing light comes and goes without apparent cause.
View 8 Replies
Ive had my Camry since around September of last year. It had between 100-110k miles at the time of purchase.
In the last 3 months, Ive started to notice that sometimes when I am on the road & switch on the cruise control, the setting appears to have trouble engaging. On some occasions the cruise control does not even switch on at all when I hit the "set" button, while at other times I can feel the setting turn on and off intermittently, while I feel the engine respond accordingly with more or less gas with each time it goes on and off.I can also see the cruise control light on my dashboard begin to flash on and off each time this happens.
This does not happen every time I drive, but I must say Ive never seen anything like this before in any other car Ive ever had, and I find whats happening here to be both very strange as well as very annoying.
View 4 Replies
The 12v battery is 3 1/2 years old.
I rebuilt the HV battery in May 2015. I replaced 3 modules and took the pack through 3 charge/discharge cycles using Hybrid Automotive grid charger and simple discharger. I also cleaned the cooling fan.
All was fine for a month or so. Then I got the trouble lights but the obdlink I had wouldn't show the codes. I noticed a decrease in mileage and a slight hesitation upon acceleration from a stop.
I finally got the mini vci and a win xp laptop to find the codes:
P3000
P0A82
C1310
After maybe a week or so, the ICE wouldn't start and, being busy, I parked it for a while. About a month later, I pulled codes:
P0AA6 with detail codes 526 and 613
P3000 with detail code 123
P0A82 with no detail codes but it indicates "hybrid battery pack cooling fan 1 performance/stuck off.
I connected the grid charger and the HV fan engaged, as it should. I cleared codes and took a drive, while monitoring with Techstream. I watched the fan modes climb to 6, during driving and idling, over about a half hour period. Not sure if this means anything, but I've read that people can hear the fan from the driver's seat when it's running at 3 or 4- I forget which. Well, at 3, or maybe 4, I couldn't hear it. Even standing at the rear door, with my ear against the vent. Though, there was ICE and parking lot noise to contend with. Once it got to 6, I could hear it easily.
Battery health, at that time: With fan at 6, temp of batt tb1 through tb3 was 51.6 c, 56.5 c, 50.4 c.
Battery blocks voltage ranged from 16.05 to 16.15. Internal resistance ranged from .024 to .026 ohms.
Out of necessity, I've been driving this car again, for months now. The lights came back and the codes were still P3000 with detail code 123, P0A82 with the addition of C1310. I don't see a detail code in the same place but there is a field that says "detailed freeze DTC 156". I assume this may be a detail or sub code. Nothing has been preventing me from starting the car. But months ago there had been 2 occasions when, after having driven several miles and parked for a short time, then taking the freeway home, the car would idle high going up an overpass. On these occasions, the MFD shows a low SOC with only one purple bar. The first time this happened, it took around 10 miles before the SOC would creep up. The second time, I had it on cruise control and, while ascending a grade, the car jerked violently and acted as if I were flooring and letting off the gas in quick succession, about 4 times. I disengaged cruise control and took hills more slowly. The high idle up the hills backed off as the battery SOC increased. This time the SOC started in increase within a few minutes, as I would expect normally. I imagine that the electric motor was turning off and on, when the car was jerking, due to a low SOC.
These symptoms cleared up in a few days, apart from the hesitation on accelerating from a stop, and I've been driving it ever since. A few weeks ago, I noticed the car had major difficulty accelerating. I'll floor it and it barely moves, taking several seconds longer than it should to get up to speed. The SOC is stuck at 1 purple bar. I got the car home and turned it off. When I turned it back on, the SOC increased very quickly, only once. I now can't replicate that. The SOC simply will not go above one bar.
Another odd thing. When I'm creeping down the road, at say, 25mph, and I let off the throttle, the car just keeps moving as if cruise control is engaged.
View 11 Replies
I have a 2004 Saturn Ion and when the cruise control is engaged it makes a short ratcheting sound if I go up an incline. It sounds like it happens in front of the stick shift and it doesn't affect the rpm's or the power of the engine, it's just a weird noise. It's done that for years and hasn't increased or changed, I'm just wondering what causes it, I've never heard a car make a sound like that before.
View 1 Replies
My 2005 Toyota Prius gave me confidence. Here's what happened:
I was driving on the Interstate with the cruise control set at 70 mph. Seeing traffic stopped ahead, I applied the brakes for a moment to slow, then released the brake to coast. Much to my surprise, the cruise control was still engaged and the car accelerated. I applied the brakes again, manually turned off the cruise control, then was able to coast. I drove for another half-hour without incident until the following afternoon when I drove again, experiencing a much more serious problem.
I had just turned left, and was straightening the wheels when I heard, and felt, a loud "snap" in the steering wheel, immediately upon which I knew the steering wheel was disconnected and I could no longer steer the car. Very, very fortunately, and only because I was already nearly stopped, I was able to stop the vehicle without incident.
However, I immediately recognized that, had this happened in almost any other scenario than being nearly parked, the outcome would have been markedly different. The steering wheel is completely loose, not controlling anything, and all the many steering wheel controls are equally disconnected, including the driver's air bag (SRS), something that I would have needed, but wouldn't have worked, had I crashed into oncoming traffic or an Interstate median.
View 19 Replies
The "Cruise Main" switch on my 2003 Honda Accord will not stay engaged. When I push it, the Cuise Main lights up in the dash board and I can operate cruise control, but when I release the Cruise Main switch it doesn't stay on. I've tried electrical tape to hold the switch in (holds for limited time), and am thinking about bypassing the switch altogether. I don't mind if the Cruise Main is on all the time. I know I could replace the switch, but am looking for a zero cost solution.
View 1 Replies
My 2005 Mercury Montego has a weird issue with the cruise control. I have already taken it to a Ford dealer once. They claimed the switch on the brake pedal was the issue. It isn't.
At 70 mph, with cruise control OFF, take foot off accelerator and push on brake pedal. Works great.
At 70 mph, with cruise control On and engaged, the brake acts like the engine is off. It is very hard to push. It is like the engine is OFF and the vacuum assist is gone. Press really hard, and the car will slow down. Jab the brake once first (hard), then apply brakes, and it is fine. Push the cancel button on the steering wheel, and all is well. The few times I have looked, the tachometer has not moved. Car has CVT.
I bought this car new, and know it didn't always do this. And certainly shouldn't. A panic stop is scarier than it already would have been. Car has around 62000 miles on it.
Mechanic wrote that he observed the issue in a test dive and tested it following repair and it now works. I don't get this at all.
View 19 Replies
I like to drive with cruise control engaged but I find I can't do that in my new (well, 182K 2005 6.0L) Excursion. It's holds speed just fine, but if I top a rise and start going downhill - basically when no effort needed to maintain speed - it starts chugging and shaking the whole truck real bad. It feels and sounds bad, can't be good for it (or so I've assumed in my head). It's a real staccato feeling as if fuel is being applied less than a second, stopped, reapplied. Is this something unique to the diesel (my first diesel), an issue with the cruise control (vacuum, electronic?), or what?
View 9 Replies
I have a 2003 F150. My horn and cruise both stopped working. All fuses are OK. Cruise controls are on steering wheel (as is horn). Why both would stop working???
View 2 Replies
Many of you said it was the "ClockSpring" that needed to be replaced. But I already did that. A brand new clockspring on it. The horn only blows when the engine is off and when the engine is on the horn and Curse Control don't work. I have a 2001 Excursion. So What could the problem be? It works with the keyless remote. But just when you driving down the street and some bone head cut you off you can't just it.
View 5 Replies
I have an '02 F150 Lariat CC 5.4L. The truck is new to me and neither the cruise control nor the horn works. i have checked all (known) fuses and relays. I have tried the cc diagnostic, and the dash light DOES NOT illuminate. Should I assume that the dash light is not burned out? Is there a way to test the clock spring connections for continuity? and how do I access the connection
i checked the cc brake pressure switch and have continuity there.
View 2 Replies
The steering wheel controls, horn and cruise control recently died in our '08 wagon. The fact that they went out suddenly and simultaneously suggests that they might be tied to a fuse. I looked around the intarwebs via google and saw some references to a problem with HomeLink wiring in the sunvisor blowing "fuse 5" on older models, but I'm unsure if something like this is even valid for the B6.
View 9 Replies
Been searching but can't find a clue. I replaced my steering gear box. Went fine, but after starting back up. My alarm goes off, my cruise or horn doesn't work and my air bag is giving a code 32.
Is there a ground wire or something I could of missed when installing the gear box?
View 3 Replies
I have an 89 f250 7.3. horn has not been working for the longest time the relay clicks but still nothing. It doesn't matter weather the key is in the on or off position. I know it might be a grounding problem because the cruise control does not work any more (even though recently it was working just fine). I didn't see any bad fuses.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2005 Excursion 6.0 ... .. A few months back the horn started sounding on its' own in the night, so I pulled the fuse... .. Then the Cruise Control stopped working. I have googled references to clockspring failure and these problems... ..
View 3 Replies
I have a 2001 F-250 SD XLT with the ABS light on, cruise control doesnt work and the horn only works with the key out. The codes for the ABS is no signal input from the left and right front wheel sensors. No problem there. Also my speedo stops or jumps when I press the horn button while driving down the road. When I quit pressing the horn button the speedo works fine. So after looking over the posts on cruise control, etc. Does the rear speed sensor have anything to do with the cruise, horn not working? All fuses are good so I am thinking the cruise control switch on the master cylinder or a short in the steering wheel column or my ignition switch. What do you all think?
View 7 Replies
I took our '99 Mazda Protege in for a clutch replacement. The mileage is over 150k. The car was returned with the air bag light blinking and the cruise control and horn deactivated. All were fine beforehand. The shop eventually admitted that they could have broken the clockspring during the repair. They are going to get back to me tomorrow with a quote for the repair and they told me they are going to "work with me" on the cost. I don't understand why I should pay for anything associated with the clock spring repair. Another mechanic told me they had to secure the steering during the clutch replacement and probably forgot to do it, furthermore they should cover 100% of the repair.
View 19 Replies
So i was replacing my power steering box after the shaft broke on it and apparently i didn't have my steering wheel back to exact center. after putting everything back together and started to drive down the road a very thin flat wiring harness broke and got tangled around my steering column under the plastics of the column. I then lost my horn and my cruise control and i believe my airbag. I pulled the wiring harness out and it was very long with two white plugs on either end. I'm not sure what this part is called or where i would be able to buy another one. And if there's some kind of instructions on how or where this harness plugs into sense it was ripped out.
2000 ford f-350 lariat 7.3l diesel....
View 6 Replies
I have a 2002 f350 my horn went off in the middle of the night got up and unplugged the horn what is my problem. also, the cruise control won't work when it all happened
View 3 Replies
