Toyota - Camry :: 2006 - Gurgling Sound Intermittently When Apply The Brakes
Jan 21, 2014
Intermittently, when I apply the brakes my car makes a wet, gurgling sound, as if I'm driving over wet rocks. My husband jacked up the car and said he sees something on the front axle CV on the right side, not on left, and said it looks like a bushing bearing. He said the brakes have zero grit and he let them spin under power (I'm relating what he told me as best I can, he's mechanical, I am not). I also have a rack and pinion leak, though small, he's worried about the hydroloic (sp?) assist going out. I can't say I know what any of this means, but he can't figure out why my car occasionally makes this terrible sound. I haven't noted any specific condition for the noise.
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I started hearing a gurgling sound from under the hood of my car. It sounds like some sort of fluid rushing. Today, I noticed that my car was overheating. I took to have the coolant topped off. The guy there said that it was probably a radiator leak because the radiator was "sweating". It's still making the same sound and but isn't currently overheating. What could be the causes of all this and is it worth repairing in such an old car? It's starting to seem like it's time to get a newer car.
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I have a 2003 Camry. When I start it, I hear a "gurgling" sound, like bubbling water.Sounds like it is coming fom under the dashboard, but can't be sure.Heater core is my first guess, but heat is fine and it seems to be coming from the driver's side - not the passenger's side where the heater core is located.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander. The rear right turn signal and break light don't work when I apply the brakes. When I use the turn signal or brakes while driving or parked there is no problem, but once I apply the break the back right side does not work. The light bulbs also burn out faster on that side.
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Not sure if this is a normal characteristics of our Fsport brakes, but when I am in reverse and I apply the brakes I hear a squealing sound. Is that normal? By the way my car just hit 20k miles
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Having this problem on ride, clicking noise when you apply brakes in reverse? ( I had this problem as well on my previous toyota ) it's annoying that I have to hear this sound again. My car is 6 mo old and I just put 5000km so far on my ride, I guess i can let the dealer handle it ?
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I just installed new brake pads in my 2WD 2009 Santa Fe. I bought the cheapest AutoZone pads. Now I have a loud squeal sound when I apply the brakes. If I apply a hard brake the squeal goes away. Until I apply the brakes again. Now, after install...I have been researching and noticed that the stock pads are ceramic. I did apply (Not once but twice) break grease on the pads. What the problem might be? Oh yeah, I did see that after 2007, oiling the caliper springs is required and might be the problem too. But I do not know where the spring in question is and how to oil it.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry SE with just under 51,000 miles on it. Every time I put the car into reverse and accelerate to apprx. 2-4 MPH then apply the brakes, I hear a loud popping noise, and it sounds like it is coming from the passenger front wheel. Slight noise from the drivers front as well. This doesn't happen in Drive, only in reverse at a low rate of speed. My father and I have taken the front wheels off and tested it, seems to be a motor mount, curious if this seems rational or common in a newer car.
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I own a 2003 Toyota Camry and whenever I press on the accelerator, I have noticed a gurgling sound coming from the dashboard. I have also noticed radiator fluid backing up into the reservoir, but the car is not overheating. I have already replaced the thermostat and drained the system and filled it with new radiator fluid. That has not worked. Why this is happening.
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I have the same problem that many azera and sonata owners have where my headlights dim when i slow down or apply brakes etc on my 06 azera. I have found the alternator to battery positive issue and fixed that with another piece of 4awg wire added (now has 0 volt drop). That didn't fix the issue.
Then i seen a suggestion of checking/sanding all grounds. Did that to battery to chassis, chassis to trans, engine to chassis, pcm/misc grounds (bunch of 5), and 2 more by windshield washer reservoir. This didn't fix the problem either
I've had my alternator checked and my battery as well. My only questionable idea as of now is my battery. Its the right size and checks out fine but only rated at like 450cca, etc vs 700+ and I assume more reserve at advance auto parts? Not sure if the battery is oem or not it is some bs "powervolt" brand.
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When I accelerate A/C is fine but when I go to brake (RPMs go down and car downshifts) my A/C blower power goes from high to low and then fixes itself and if I brake again same thing but it does it intermittently. What it could be?
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On my 2006 Camry, my ABS comes on intermittently when braking (~5% of the time) and the speed is very slow (5 mph or less). Exact speed is hard to say. I think one of the ABS sensors is misreading. No ABS fault light on dash.I have an explanation of how to check the sensors for AC voltage when spinning the wheel using a DVM.
1. Without a lift can I check this under the hood instead of at the wheel? Possibly at the plug into the ABS module.
2. Someone else on another thread mentioned that their dealership hooked in a monitor and drove around.
When I asked my dealership how they would diagnose this, they said they would do the same check as I mentioned above (#1). This would be expensive and since it is intermittent, they might not see anything. Do this monitor exists and what it is called?
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It is a 2002 Camry XLE 4 cyl with 175000 miles. I have been using this car since 2002.
When I turn on the car in the morning, I hear gurgling sound somewhere in the front. Also when I stop and then accelerate the car I hear the sound like water flowing. What is it?
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1996 F350 PSD 7.3
Front Dana 60 mono beam
4 x 4
Last week I broke my front right caliper. I replaced the caliper, rotor and pads. Now, when I apply the brakes I pull to the left. I took the truck into my repair shop and let them figure it out. They were unable to repair the truck. They replace the master cylinder, all brake lines, calipers on both sides, brake pads, bearings on both wheels, vehicle alignment, tire balancing and tire rotation. The tires are three months old. Prior to last week i did not have any problems braking or steering. Driving at 60kmh the truck goes straight until i gently brake, it will slightly pull left.
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this light comes on intermittently and does not go off unless engine is turned off, and then it goes out.
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About 15x now over the last year, I get in the car, press the brake, the green light comes on and half way through the start-up, the car locks up. Dead, nothing. The brake feels stiff, the key fob will not open the trunk, nor will it lock or unlock the doors, no more green or orange light on the start button. Completely dead.
The last time it happened, I opened the door, closed it again and everything reset. It came back "alive", the navigation system rebooted, the air was off and my clock had been reset. Some days this happens in a matter of a minute or two and other days it takes ten min to reset. Is it a faulty ground? Not sure why it would automatically reset on its own.
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My AM radio has terrible reception. There is humming noise that goes away when I apply the brakes. I will bring it to the dealer, but I know what they will say, "cannot duplicate problem" or "radio operation found to be normal".
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2011 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L .... I have 82,000 miles. Bought with 65,000 miles.
Now when I apply brakes at 60 mph or above i get wobbling (Vibration) on my steering wheel these days. Is it the rotors or pads or both or any alignment issues?
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Toyota 2004 Camry door locks are working intermitently. I can only get in drivers door with door fob from outside. Inside, I can only unlock drivers door. Took to dealer and they said they tried the door fob and it work 50 times when they tried it. The key only works in the driver's side. The passenger side is very difficult to get to work. They said they couldn't do anything unless it was acting up. It does - when they are not there. Saw on line 2003 doors had a problem. What do I need to tell dealer to get them to fix this?
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I have a dry metal on metal squawk noise when I reverse, I have taken it to a VW dealer, and they say "there is nothing wrong", or that they "cannot find anything". The noise is not constant, just when I apply the brakes in reverse.
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When i press the brake pedal the brakes seem to start working ,but they dont apply enough pressure to actually stop the car from speed , it's just happened car was fine yesterday , also i've noticed when i start the car , and press pedal with my hand there is a air leak noise behind the pedal , and a faint low pitched tone noise as well , its as if the servo isnt working fully.
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