When I start my '05 Camry (4 cyl - SE) it revs up to 2K, though only briefly. I don't like to go over 1,000 rpm until it's warmed up. Toyota dealer says that's normal ... Would it hurt to try it with the cold start (water temp) sensor unplugged ?........
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 Camry and it was stalling while driving occasionally. It had gotten worse, so I cleaned the throttle body as was suggested. Now, when I try to start it, the engine revs really high then goes back down and dies. This is without putting any pressure on the accelerator. What to do next?
View 1 RepliesI have a MT '12 Golf 2.5L with around 8k miles. I always park with the transmission in neutral. When I first start it up in the morning, the engine revs high, around 1500RPM, so I can clearly hear the engine inside the car. I start it, it revs up and holds, and when I release the clutch I hear what sounds like a rev, but the tach doesn't move.
I believe the GTI doesn't need the clutch depressed for the entire turn over, but the Golf does, so I have to hold it until the engine is running. It may not be a big deal, but I'm just wondering why releasing the clutch in neutral would make a noise. I don't hear it any other time than at start up.
I have a 2005 GTI 1.8T with 203K miles, stock except for a MagnaFlow exhaust. My problem arose about a month ago. When I accelerate aggressively and shift from 4th gear to fifth at about 4K RPMs the engine will jump up to 5K RPMs. Happens while shifting from any gear when accelerating hard.
When I push down on the clutch and take my foot off the gas, I get a jump in RPMs. It's kind of like the boost in the turbo is not getting released. I replaced the stock diverter valve with a Forge DV with the splitter. Had no effect on my problem, but now I have that cool sound when I get off the gas.
Could this be the waste gate on the turbo not opening and releasing the boost when I get off the gas? I'm not very familiar with the intricacies of the Turbo functions and the diverter valve.
I have recently done a battery disconnect hoping the issue was a glitch in the ecu/tcu as this has solved some clunkiness in my old audi. But the issue is till there.
I also went ahead and did a fluid change of the transmission at the dealer.
The issue is intermittent and the rpms just rev up slightly only on the 3rd and 4th transition and like I mentioned it is an intermittent issue.
I have read something about adjusting bands to the transmission? Is this solution applicable to the 05 solara v6 tranny? The old transmission fluid was pink and not black or burnt.
Need to diagnostic the noise coming from my Echo 2005? 70K miles. I took to the dealer twice and spend a total of 500$ but the noise still there. The dealer changed the drive belt , new brake pad and clean the rear drum and adjustment. The noise occurred at start up and sometime at low speed below 10mph. The noise increase then stops after 6 second. [URL] .....
View 10 RepliesAfter 4.5 years of service my car battery seems to have died. On turning the key the starter clicks but it does not start. I jump started it yesterday. It worked fine. It won't start today again so I checked the battery hygrometer. It is green. I checked the water level. It is full.
View 9 RepliesBought a 2011 Toyota Camry about 2 weeks ago. Noticed a few days ago a severe whine I think is coming from the transmission, when it is started. The noise goes away after about 2 miles of driving and the car seems to shift OK. The dealership says this is "normal", but I've not heard other Camrys doing this.
View 2 RepliesThis is for our '05 Toyota Camry with 125K miles on the ODO, has ABS but no TPMS.
Around a few weeks ago the ABS light started flashing on start-up. Turned engine off and it went away. This has happened 3 times to far. The light stays off otherwise. Before this we had new tires installed and the car aligned and they said the rear was a bit off (had uneven tire wear), not sure if related or not.
I was able to read the code with shorting two pins and I get 33 & 34 which is both the rear wheel sensors. The part that I am suspicious about is both sensors going out together that not make sense. So I am thinking it is the wiring somewhere. Hopefully not the module ...
For now I have cleared the codes and want to see if they return. The sensors are expensive and seems like I have to take the rear bearing off to change them, so not keen on just throwing parts at it. How to approach the troubleshooting?
So I've had ongoing issues with this car that no mechanic seems to be able to diagnose. It jerks when I accelerate and decelerate pretty badly. It sometimes lets out a big cloud of smoke right when I start it. Now, it has developed some pretty violent shaking when I first start it up. It will only do this if the engine is completely cold and car has been sitting overnight. I feel like all these symptoms are related somehow. I have changed all the spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body. I've also had all the motor mounts replaced. I really wish the engine light would come on but it will not and never has.
It's really annoying that it only happens on startup so when I take it to the mechanic, well, they can't replicate it. What to try?
2002 Toyota Camry LE V6 136k miles Automatic
I have '05 Camry v4. Everything was fine but three days ago I started to have issues. At first I tried starting the engine it would fire up with RPMs going to about 2000 as per usual start. Instead of going down to 800 as it usually does the RPMs just keep on dropping until car stalls. On the first day it started happening I would simply try to start the car again and it would start.
Progressively it would take me more tries to start the engine. It's always the same way (be it a cold start or a start after I've just drove for a while). First try - the engine starts and stalls right away and after that I have to keep on trying to start it for some time. So finally it wouldn't start at all. Starter cranks, battery fine, but the car simply would not start. Weird part about it, is that once the car starts it acts completely normal. No spikes in RPMs, no loss of power, nothing! At this point I just don't know what the hell it is.
1992 camry 4 cylinder ... Since having my engine replaced with a used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Camry with only 56,000 miles on it and I have noticed that the engine has been very sluggish on start-up first thing in the morning. This happens only when the weather gets cooler and is worst in winter. Warm weather, no problem. After I back out the driveway, I have to step on the accelerator 2-3 times before the car will go forward. The engine sounds like it's straining. After initial start-up, no problem. Now, lately I have begun seeing blue smoke coming from the exhaust . . . again only on initial start-up in the morning.
View 2 RepliesWhen starting the car (2002 Toyota Camry XLE) with 114k miles, I noticed that I can gasoline. I also have a rare intermittent stalling when brake & come to a stop. Earlier post: [URL] ....
What could cause the smell of gasoline when I start my car? Is this something that needs to be fixed or can it be ignored? Would this be something that could cause intermittent stalling when braking? After the stall happens, I'm unable to immediately start the car but it starts normally after 15 minutes. Is this the result of some flooding by the gasoline?
What's going on with my '93 240. When I first go out to start my car in the morning, it starts up fine. After that, however, is when the trouble begins. If it's hot out, or if I've driven the car that day, there's a 50% I'll have trouble keeping the engine running. The engine will run rich, and chugs on startup, eventually stalling out after a few revolutions. During this time, the engine revs low, don't have a tac so I can't say how low, but definitely below idle.
If hold the accelerator to increase the RPM, the engine will run fine, but once I let off the gas, chances are it will stall out again. Eventually, after doing this a few times, something seems to catch the car as it begins to stall again, as in, just before the car is about to stall, the idle speed kicks up to normal. After that, the car runs fine.
I've had a code for the MAF for a long time. I tested the resistance across the meter, and it indicates the wire is still good. Even at that, I've replaced the MAF, but nothing has changed. Still have the same problem. What could be causing this?
Baffled that my well-maintained 05 Corolla couldn't smog today. Smog checker said rpms were too high and it got kicked off the machine six times; said he had replaced his cable today. Manual transmission, 96,000 miles and had oil change last week; 93,000 major service included flush of something.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Toyota Camry SE with about 6,xxx miles on it. Called up the dealership I bought it from and they are going to charge me an arm n log to see what is going on.
The issue is there is no air blowing from Lo-High, all lights work except A/C, so i'm guessing its not the AC/Heat control.
This is what I've done so far in DYI:
1. replaced Blower motor Resistor.
2. Check the Fuse underneath the steering wheel. (Still Good)
this is what I'm going to do next:
1. Buy A/C relay $75+ tax (dealer)
2. Change Blower Motor $175+ tax (dealer)
I have a 2008 Toyota Camry XLE V6 with 110K miles in great condition! I'm at the Toyota dealership for oil change and tire rotation. I know I can get that any where but convenience is more important this morning.
I asked the attendant if they would use high mileage oil. She said "my guys do not believe in using high mileage oil". She did not know why they "believed" this way. They just use what Toyota recommends or synthetic oil she said.
High mileage oil has any value?
My 2009 Camry with 72k on it has started to make an intermittent high pitched whine from the rear of the car. It's only noticeable while accelerating or maintaining speed.
View 1 Repliesfuel & smoke smell when high acceleration and when the window open.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 1994 Camry V6 that I am swapping transmissions from automatic to manual. Before the swap, the engine ran fine and started first time every time. Now that I have everything back together, the car will take many times of 10 seconds or longer cranking to be able to start. Once it does start, it idles very high and within 15 seconds will die. If, during the time it is running, you touch the gas at all, the car instantly dies. I've got CEL's for CPS and TPS. I have replaced both sensors numerous times, checking with a voltmeter they are within spec as are the wires, I have replaced the ECU and wiring harness.
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