Toyota - Camry :: 2005 - Rear Calipers Stuck Open And Rear Brakes Not Working And Rusted
Jul 18, 2013
I have a 2005 Toyota Camry that we purchased 14 months ago. When purchased it had bad brakes so the dealer replaced the rotors and calipers at their expense. A month ago I took the car in for a routine oil change and was notified that my rear calipers were stuck open and that my rear brakes were not working and rusted. The rotors look hardly worn, the one on the passenger side has some deep grooves in it and the driver side is pitted. We feel that we had poor work done when the brakes were replaced and that the back never worked. After the brake job was done we would get some "chinging" noise in the back brakes and I had them inspected twice and they said everything was fine. But now we find out they weren't fine.
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Today while switching out the winter tires, I noticed it took significant effort to rotate the rear wheels, both of them. There is a binding noise I heard when I rotated each of the wheels as though the brake pads are rubbing against the rotors. Would it be OK to take it into Sears for a brake pad/caliper check and possible cleaning/lubing of these? Or are these components so unlike those on other vehicles that I should have the dealer check them out?
This was the first time I did the switching of the tires, so I don't know if the wheels have been bound for a long time. Also, in the middle of winter, suddenly the MPG rose for a few days (the vehicle seemed to move easier as well) and then went down. I am now suspecting the binding brakes on the rear might be the issue.
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In February 2014 I purchased a 2011 Honda CRV. I often travel and am gone for about a week. Every time I come back the rear brake are rusted. They have a loud thumping and grinding sound. I immediately took the car back to Honda dealership (2 time) both times they 'shaved' the roaters. I then contacted Honda headquarters to report the issue. They told me to deal with the dealership and take it to a local mechanic for other opinions. Car Talk will be my second opinion. Honda dealership told me that this is just the way it is. This is my third Honda, I have NOT had this problem before.
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My passenger side front and rear windows dont work. Both driver side windows work, just not the right side/passenger side.
Also when I press the master door lock/unlock switch on the driver seat, every door except the rear passenger door works. It stays unchanged so I guess it is not receiving a signal or something is not letting the signal reach the lock.
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Our 2010 Toyota Camry makes a squealing noise as we back out of our garage.Does this mean we new rear brakes?
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My rear defogger stopped working after I got the car back from collision repair. I'm trying to see if I can resolve this matter by myself before having to take it back. I've noticed that there is no rear defogger contact on the power grid. None that I can see anyway. I was trying to locate a manual or where it was located if there even is one. Or Why my defogger stopped working.
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I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
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I recently bought a beater '89 F-150 (I-6, MT) with the following problems:
1) Both rear brakes seem to stick on occasion--almost like there was a "check valve" on the rear brake line. When that happens, there is a "BRAKE" and "Rear ABS" light (although the light does occasionally come on without brakes sticking noticeably).
What I noticed in Haynes is that the "RABS I" system functions in the following way: a) Upon noticing rear axle spinning slower than front axle, it actuates a valve, isolating the rear brakes b) If the problem persists, it then dumps the pressure back into the main system.
So, I wonder: Is this an ABS system acting up? If I were to (temporarily) de-power the ABS setup, would it default to "no ABS," or would I need to remove the hydraulic valves from the brake lines? (Don't really want to if I don't have to.)
2) You can select either fuel tank, get that tank's level to indicate on the fuel gauge...yet it only "draws" from the front tank.
Again, Haynes says there is a low pressure pump in each tank, feeding a high-pressure pump in essentially a small "header" tank. The "dual-function reservior" has a wholly mechanical selector, and notes that "Tank switching versus gauge conflicts can occur under certain failure mode conditions."
So: I can understand that the mechanical selector can, in effect, "stick" on one tank. But what I don't understand is how it can still draw from the front tank, with the "rear" tank selected (and presumably, that tank's low-pressure pump trying to feed the header tank.)
Is it possible that the low pressure pump--while beneficial to prevent gravitation at the main pump--isn't strictly necessary to fuel the engine? Or do I have a problem with a low pressure pump that's "always on," regardless of the selected tank?
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Two months ago, I replaced the rear drum shoes, wheel cylinders and seemed after that I was ok until today. I checked the rear brakes and they are split in half. i noticed my abs & brake lights lit up this morning. I would think the ABS is getting stuck? How do I check the ABS? This morning I felt like something was holding back the truck. I continued and when I got home I said to myself, let me just check the rear brakes and thais what I found. Both sides had the shoes broke.
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I have a couple of things going on with my 2014 Toyota Camry. My car was in a recent rear end collision and I noticed the other day that my rear window defroster is no longer working. I waited 15 to 20 minutes and still nothing. The side mirror defrosters work fine. One button turns on both my rear and side mirror defrosters. The extent of the rear damage did not go past the trunk lid. They did replace the lid, but I'm not sure why that would make a difference. The rear window was not replaced. There was also some quarter panel damage underneath that required welding. It was working fine before the body work and now it's not working. Would could be the likely cause? I'd rather fix it myself if it's quick, rather than spending time taking it back tot he body shop.
The other problem...I was on a road that had a drop off on my passenger side. The lane slightly narrowed for some odd reason for just for a few feet. The front right side tire went off road and the front of my car hit the pavement pretty hard. I couldn't see any damage underneath, but of course that doesn't mean there isn't any. When I was driving to work this morning I could hear a humming noise that only got louder as I drove faster. It wasn't a continuous hum. You could hear a break in between hums but the breaks were more frequent the faster I drove. I'm not too sure what that is either? A wheel bearing?
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Toyota camry SE 2012. The sunroof is stuck on the open position. It is fully open and the motor does not make any noise. The fuse is ok. Nothing seems stuck on the track just from a quick glance. I am hoping to find a way to manually close it if it is possible.
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My darling wife just called me and told me that one of the people that she was transporting in our egg this afternoon pulled up the passenger-side rear sunshade and hooked it on the clips at the top. Then apparently he just rested his arm on the ledge and they heard some sort of "pop" noise. Then, when he unhooked the sun shade to retract it back into the door it wouldn't pull back and retract so it's stuck in the "open" position. I'm guessing it's a simple matter of popping off the door skin and resetting something that's popped/snapped off.
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I have a 1995 Toyota Camry V6 XLE and ...My driver's side door locked up and won't open from the outside or from the inside! Here are the problems:
1. I can put the key in the keyhole on the outside and it will turn clockwise but won't turn to the left at all- when I turn it clockwise it makes the normal sounds.
2. I can from the inside push the power door locks to lock and unlock and it moves the lock both ways on the drivers side, still won't open!
3. When I pull on the latch from the inside and from the outside I can hear the inner mechanisms moving, sounding like it wants to unlatch it from the locked position.
4. Now I am getting paranoid about the passenger side door because when I go to put the key in on the passenger side door lock, I can turn it to the Left to unlock the doors but the key won't turn to the right at all! It is a pain right now as it is to crawl over to the driver's side via the passenger door, but if that door locks up for some reason, I am really up the creek! I don't even lock that side right now b/c I'm afraid it might mess up like the driver's side door!
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The drivers side rear door on our 2004 T'reg is stuck shut. Neither the interior or exterior door handle will open the door. I tried locking/unlocking it a few times, both with the remote and with the interior button. Is this a simple fix, or is it off to the dealership with me?
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I have the three way flapper switch and lately when I would start the car cold with the switch in the stock position I would hear a strange rattling/vibrating sound coming from the rear of the car then the other night I was trying to creep home and the flapper wouldn't close and still won't close no matter what position the switch is in. I looked and everything looks fine, the vacuum line is still connected and everything. Could this be a problem in the vacuum system or a blown fuse? Solenoid problem? I've never heard of this before....
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I am thinking of purchasing a 2003 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 as my winter vehicle. The car only has 92,000 miles on it. I test drove it, and it seems to run great! The only issue (visibly) with the car is that the rear drivers side door is stuck. There is a dent below the door handle, and the door will not open from the inside of the car, or from the outside. The dent does not look major, and it seems to me that if I can get the door open, I could repair the latch/locking mechanism.
I don't want to buy the car if the only way to repair the door is to spend a ton of money at a body shop. Below are the pictures of the outside of the door. Hopefully the image links work.
I think it is the locking mechanism that is broken. The dent isn't causing the door to be stuck. The power door locks work, and I can manually lock/unlock the rear door. However, even when unlocked, the door will not open from inside or outside the vehicle. It's as though the door is "stuck" because the lock doesn't disengage.
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I have 2001 EX with the 7.3 and my rear vent windows stuck open and I am stumped as to what might be the culprit. There isn't any power getting to the switches in the overhead console.
I replaced the relay 204 in the engine compartment, I believe that is the correct one.
Where the actual fuse is located for this and its number? Because both of them are stuck open not just one side.
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We have a "new" 2010 F150 with factory sunroof & power sliding rear window. Well like the post title says, it'll open but not close.
I took apart the switch & cleaned the contacts - it all looks and fits together as it should. I went ahead and removed the cables controlling the window slider frame to close it. I'm guessing the motor is somewhere behind the back seats?
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So today, at a red light, i let off the brakes- I feel and hear a loud pop from the passenger rear. My first reaction, whatever brakes stick, happens.
Then it did it again, then again, a bit louder and a more dramatic feeling. It's my only driver as my TT is out right now in the body shop.
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I traded my 08 R32 for a certified 2013 GTI Autobahn 4 dr. and have noticed a few quirks or issues. I have had several Vw's and my wife currently has a 2010 Tiguan SEL awd. The car goes in on the 10th to see what the dealer can find out. I bought the car with roughly 9400 miles and it has 11,300 on it now.
Issue 1 - The passenger side door handle does not pull smoothly to open. When you pull on it it goes about half way and stops and then you have to pull it again or harder. I am thinking it is an alignment issue.
Issue 2 - When i first start driving after the car has sat overnight in the garage or in the parking lot at work I get a swirling sound from the rear brakes. I do set the parking brake every time it is parked. It is almost like the brakes are not releasing all the way or rub for a little.
Issue 3 - This is the one that is odd and concerns me. When i first start driving the car takes several minutes to come up to 190 degrees. I baby the car till it gets up to temp for the turbos sake. But oddly after it gets up to temp with in 5 minutes it is like the thermostat opens and it cools back down to 150-160 and then comes back up to temp. My wife's car does not do this and neither did the 07 Passat 2.0t. Is this common? When talking to the service advisor (who I have been dealing with for a while) he said he has never had this issue come up.
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I've learned I can't drive with my rear windows open because it generates this whopping noise that's so bad it hurts your ears and shakes the car a bit at highway speeds. Sounds like a helicopter sitting on top of the car. I'm thinking it's caused by the air waffling in the rear window/deck space, since it's only slightly better since I took off the rear seat headrests. It happens at speeds over about 25 mph, and is unbearable at speeds over 50. 2010 Corolla LE...
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