Toyota - Camry :: 2005 - Brake Pedal Almost Sinks?
Jun 3, 2013
We have a 2005 Toyota Camry, had it since 30K miles/2008, now has 94K miles. Since we have owned it, the brake pedal feel has not been great, kind of mushy. It is the way this generation Camry's are. It gets driven mostly on fwy, so not much brake use. At 92K miles I changed the front pads and rotors, pads still had 30% left on them. The rotors were somewhat warped. Brake fluid has been gravity flushed every 2 years since 2008, last one in 2012.
Now, the problem is when wife drives it, twice at a lengthy red light, she has noted that the brake pedal "almost" sinks. It did not go to the floor, but the level went lower. The car did not move during this events. With the newer ABS brake systems, on all my three cars, after a full stop, I can push the pedal down further, almost close to the floor. The Camry is the same way, just with a baseline of mushy pedals. My wife only drives one of the other ones (Dodge Caravan,)and has not complained about that one.
The brake fluid level is solid/steady, no leaks at the wheels either.
Now looking at whats involved, seems I can change the master cylinder myself. The question is do I need to? I don't mind paying a mechanic to do a diagnostic too, just not sure what they are going to do. I believe, just as a defensive measure, they will go ahead and change the MC (which then I might as well do it myself). I could also continue to drive it, but don't want to be stupid here.
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A friend brought me a car with the issue that the brake pedal sinks to the floor when braking. She said it was never low on fluid so I replaced the master cylinder and bled all of the lines with a friend pumping the pedal. The pedal would still sink to the floor. I tried vacuum bleeding the brakes and found that the front left consistently had large bubbles.
I Teflon taped the fitting on the calliper and the bleed screw which improved the problem but didn't fix it. I then replaced the calliper. The front left calliper still won't bleed and the brake pedal still goes to the floor. When I bleed it the regular way, the fluid comes out of the bleeder like it bled nicely. Neither of the rubber hoses that connect to the calliper have any visible damage. I had a friend pump the brakes while looking at the hoses and their is no bulge or swelling in them. Could the ABS need to be bled?
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My B6 purchased exactly three weeks ago has had a soft brake pedal since day one. By "soft," I mean that when parked with the engine running and applying moderate pedal pressure, the brake pedal provides some resistance but sinks to the floor. If I pump it up a few times, it temporarily gets much firmer, but eventually sinks to the floor again after a few seconds. Now the car so far has never failed to actually stop, and it can get into the ABS. But during an abrupt (okay...panic) stop last week, it did go to the floor while the car was still moving. That's when I decided that was enough and took it back to be serviced.
My expectation was that there was just a small amount of air in a line somewhere, and that they could bleed the system and fix it. That was my experience with my B5: it was very sensitive to the least little bit of air, and if it wasn't thoroughly bled after brake service the pedal often got mushy and could find the floor. But bleeding them always get the pedal back to normal. So the service advisor said that he "had the service manager drive [my car] and compare it to a new Passat [on the lot] and talked to "Quality Tech. Manager to confirm." And the confirmation was that my brake system is "working as designed." In short, they say the brakes are working properly and there is nothing to fix. So I have now picked up the car and it still does the same thing.
Now I can (and will) bleed the brakes on my own over the weekend. But I would like feedback from others as to whether or not their brake pedals regularly see the floor. I just can't see this being the way any hydraulic brake system should work..
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M friend with his 98 gmc. When stopping the breaks are normal until getting slow then the abs motor comes on and the break pedal sinks to the floor. The truck stops but the abs motor runs constant until you release the pedal. This is happening on dry roads. What is there to check before condemning the abs module?
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I have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.
This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.
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I have a 2010 toyota camry that needs a parking brake adjustment. the car still stops with the transmission even if the parking brake pedal is pressed down. I changes the pads in the back and it seems to be a little better, but it's not as good as other Camry's I've been in. Where to look as far as the adjustments go? and possibly how if it's not the usual method.
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I have a Camry at 120K now. Front brake pads was placed at 85K and was told by the maintenance person at that time that brake rotors couldn't be resurfaced since they were close to the minimum thickness.
Braking seems still fine these days. I don't hear any high-pitched noise or feel obvious vibration/pulsation when the brake is applied. The brake pads are still within a good range of thickness as the last check was made a couple of months ago.
But the brake pedal is softer than before so that now I have push harder to get car stopped. It that a warning sign which indicates it is time to replace the brakes rotors and pads?
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I have a 99 Toyota Camry and recently the breaklight has been coming on and off sporadically. I assumed I had done some damage to my E-break, as the other week I tried to back out with it on (cut me some slack, I just moved to PA after having only really driven in FL lol). I wasn't worried about it since I didn't notice any issues with my breaks, however the last few days I randomly have to press the pedal down almost to the floor to come to a full stop. There doesn't seem to be any consistency to this, sometimes it happens when the light is on but usually not. It does it both when I am stopped (causing me to move forward slightly till I depress it farther), sometimes when I am stopping normally, both when I'm going straight and right after turning, ect.
I checked my break fluid level and it is at the minimum line so I doubt that is the issue. I did some research and saw many saying that it was likely just air in the lines and that the system needed to be bled. But some also mentioned replacing the master cylinder so I wanted to see what response I might get on here (I don't know very much about cars myself).
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When I press on the brake pedal, at about halfway point, I feel a clacking sensation instead of a smooth downward motion. When I let my foot off the pedal, I feel the sensation again. There also seems to be a small knocking sound when I feel that clacking.
In terms of braking, there's no issue. It's just a minor annoyance that's been bugging me for a while. Camry 2012.....
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yesterday i gave the 02 diesel a treat, 3 new calipers 4 new rotors, and semimetalic pads. the reason for only 3 calipers is the driver side was just replaced 2 months ago after it locked the wheel up on me. both rears were seized so i only had front brakes, and the passenger side front was leaking.
anyway, all new parts and the pedal is fantastic, besides the truck stopping again. this afternoon on the way home from the shop i stopped at a red light. breaks are rock solid. then all of a sudden, the pedal slowly sinks to the floor. but the brakes still hold. i get home and test them. again, pedal slowly sinks to the floor, but they hold. i am thinking still some air in the system, and park hte truck, with the intention of bleeding them again tomorrow.
i get out and see fluid all over the driveway. great. something in the front of the axle is leaking. the frame is drenched. whatever it is, is in front of the frame, on the engine side. what is in there, the ABS unit?
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I was driving my Dad's Camry in the rain and at one stop I heard what sounded like the anti-lock brake noise and vibration. Heard it again when stopping on leaves. Didn't think much of it until I started noticing the same noise when the road was dry and clear. All the stops were gradual, from under 30 mph. The car stops fine, less the noise. I hear the noise approx 1 stop of 3 or 4 regardless of road conditions or weather.
What's the cause? Since it relates to the braking system is this something I should have the shop look at asap? This is a 2005 but with under 60,000 miles. Has been well maintained.
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My Sienna 2005 experience intermittent complete brake failure 3 times within 18,000 miles,the brake pedal goes to the floor and it does not slow down, so I coast until I stop. However, when I release the brake pedal and then reapply the brakes, it works fine. A non-Toyota mechanic thinks it's due to malfunction of ABS. The dealership is unable to finds error codes and brakes work fine when the Sienna is in their hands. I scared that the brakes will not work the next time I reapply the brakes.
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A 2000 Toyota 4Runner was stopping fine. A mechanic informed me that the brake pads were worn down. After the pads were replaced and bled the pedal sinks lower than before and the car requires more pressure to stop. I can pump up the pedal after 3 pushes. I took it back and he has since re-bled the brakes but the pedal still sinks low.
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My brake pedal squeaks when I release it, for the last two weeks. Does this mean I need maintenance, repair, or some oil?
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Brake pedal goes to floor with no resistance first time I start in am. Rest of day all normal. Started when cold weather came. Fluid ok, no leaks seen.
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My brake pedal is sticking down every time I push it in. I tried replacing the spring that was in there with a stronger one and sprayed the whole unit down with an all purpose silicon lubricant. It seemed to work a little but the problem is far from solved. It seems like it is sticking somewhere further away from the pedal. Master Cylinder maybe? I selected Tacoma because it's the closest option to my truck, but it's actually a 77 pickup/hilux.
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The wife's had her 05 for about two weeks now, and while riding in it the other day, I noticed that the brake pedal now squeaks like a SOB. I know it's a simple fix.
Also, is there any way to VAG the rear hatch, so you don't have to constantly use the door switch or fob to unlock the hatch, even when the doors are unlocked? And, is the any way to change the brightness of the overhead compass screen? At night, unless I lean over, I can't read it from the driver's seat. Those are my only rants thus far, which are nearly nonexistent. PS - got the hitch put on and pulled for the first time last weekend. Nothing but good things to say.
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My 1987 toyota celica brake pedal is going to the floor when I apply the brakes but not all the time,i checked the pads and shoes they are still good i also bled the brakes, I am thinking it is the master cylinder or maybe the master cylinder needs to be bled.
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I have my Toyota 2000 4 Runners having a slightly problem. When I paddle the brake at the Stop or traffic light, the wheel turns (mostly anti-clockwise) a little bit like 10 to 20 degrees. It doesn't turn all the time but especailly when the car is going slightly downhill such as when I paddle the brake and stop from parking lot onto the main road. The road is a little dip down or sometimes in front of the traffic light and it was slightly inclined. I don't know if this normal or not.
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2013 Toyota Corolla... I drive it very gently. A friend drove it briefly and after that the brake felt a bit weird like the position had changed slightly or that the pedal was a bit loose. I tried touching it with my hand and realized that it moved from side to side. Touching it made it worse. I have no problems braking, the brakes work normally.
It's just that:1) When the brake itself is not in motion/stationary, the brake pedal wiggles a little.1) I can feel motion get transmitted through the brake now, like I'll feel it when the windshield wipers move or if I change from park into drive.
I'm guessing I just need to get the bolts/screws/etc tightened. Just afraid that if they work on it, they might make it worse (since touching it made it much worse), or that they might tighten the brake back into a different position than it was in before my friend drove the car.
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I have an '89 Corolla with a very odd leak. There is what seems to be engine fluid dripping on to the brake pedal. My oil level is good- no apparent drop in levels and it's clean- coolant is good, brake fluid is good. The leak smells a bit like engine oil, is dark gray/ black and slippery.
Local mechanic says it sounds like a bad heater core. (The heat is working great however.) I recently replaced the distributor cap and wires/ air filter as it was misfiring like nobody's business. Running fine now
This is a second car I bought a year ago to leave on the east coast for summers. it's been really reliable- ice cold AC, great heat, great gas mileage/. Did start to over heat once this summer, but not bad.
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