Toyota - Camry :: 2005 - Body / Front End Rattles
Sep 1, 2011
I have a 2005 Camry XLE V6. For a few months now, I have had an inconsistent heavy (doesn't sound like a sheet metal or loose trim) rattle which appears to come from the left front end or engine compartment. Sounds like a bowling ball bumping up and down when passing over bumps, speed humps, potholes, etc. My mechanic checked everything and couln't find a specific cause. He said maybe it was related to the front struts, but said he didn't want to replace anything when he couldn't verify that as the cause. He says everything else looks tight and safe. This is driving us nuts.
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My wife has a 2005 toyota camry with about 84000 miles. She had been complaining of intermittent issues but no one could find the cause till yesterday. Her front brakes were froze and would not release. I took it to the shop and they said the left front was hung and the pad came off and chewed the rotor up. They suggested a brake job. Well in the process of replacing rotors and pads on the front they could not get the caliper to release. Make a long story short, the rotor and pads are changed but the front brakes will not release. They checked the lines and they look good.
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Front passenger seat rattles when the road is rough. Didn't notice it last week but it is noisy today. When I put my hand between the seat and center console, the sound stops. Is this common for a new Avalon? Is it an easy fix?
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My 2005 Camry started to make a, for a better work, "grinding" noise that appears to come from the left front side. It seems to appear around 40mph. Other symptoms:- the noise is not present when the car is in park even when revving up the engine- the noise appears to be correlated to the car/wheel speed - if placing the shift in neutral, the noise does not change while the speed doesn't change- if starting in 2nd gear, the noise only appears around 40mph when the engine is about 4500rpm.
Here it is a little hard to distinguish as the engine masks it- if switching the the 3rd gear, the noise does not change- if switching to "D", the noise does not change- coasting at neutral at more than 40mph still gives out the noise- when going over higher spots in the road (when the load of the wheels is reduced) the noise intensity goes down
There is no (or very low) noise at low speeds. Also, no noise when taking sharp turns. Had both front wheel bearings changed and the break pads, and the noise did not go away. I will be taking the car to a transmission place soon.
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I have a 2005 camry, 25k miles on it. I notice that when I go over a bump road or potholes and try to break at the same time, the brake would rattle and it's like it get stuck. The brake pedal would respond the same way, I would press down on it but it will resist my foot pushing down on it. I could still brake but it's not as responsive. Also lately, 3 times in the last 2 months my car won;t start on the first try.
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We have a 2005 Camry XLE, with 102,00 miles on it. It has been very well cared for, and only serviced by our Dealer. We would like to keep the vehicle for another 50,000 miles. We have had an assessment of the vehicle done by the Dealer, because our brakes were very soft.
He found a great deal of air in the lines and flushed them out. He also found:
1.) Leaks in the power steering rack, which he graded as a level 8 severity on a 10 point scale. Repair estimate is $1100 to replace and align.
2.) Both front struts are cracked and graded for severity as an 8 on a scale of 10.
What do you think:
A.) Are these safety issues ?
B.) What are the consequences of delay ?
C.) Are these problems indicative of other likely problems ?
D.) Is it better to have a Dealer perform the repairs ?
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I've got a 2005 Toyota Camary. It has a high pitched squeak that occurs off and on, but always disappears the second I press on the break. It sounds like it's coming from the driver's side... possibly the driver's side rear?
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I just bought a Camry 05 v4. it has 79k mileage. I hear some noises from engine area; what is this annoying noise coming from?
Here is my recorded video.....
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I have 2005 Toyota Camry LE (V4 2.4L), for some reason it stopped shifting gears, weird part that it does drive on 1st or 2nd gear but then it won't shift to the next gears, instead, it acts as if I am on neutral, doesn't matter how much gas I push or how high RMP goes the car just rolls as if I switched to neutral.
Once the RPM goes high, I stop the car, turn of the car, turn it back again and then it wouldn't even shift into first gear, it acts as if I am in neutral. Additionally, the reverse in the car works as it should, no problem there. The check engine light is not on!
What have I already done: Changed oil in transmission (just in case the oil was dirty - it was dark), unplugged battery for an hour (see if computer needed resetting after transmission oil change).
I googled the symptoms and it seems like there could be solenoid problem and that there is like four of them in V4, which type of solenoid could have failed, will cleaning it useful or is the electrical problem in the solenoid, or is there some kind of other problem.
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So, I have a 2005 Toyota Camry remote locks have not worked for a while. Also started having the issue with the two front doors where the manual electric locks worked intermittently. I replaced the little RC car motors in the door lock actuators today and got that squared away so that works great now. I also ordered a new remote to program. I programmed the remote and everything seems to go fine with that (The locks cycle when they are supposed to etc.). However, once I program the remote it just doesn't work.
So, trying to figure out what is going on here. Should I just return the remote and try to get a different one...but would it even program if it the remote where not compatible.
Also, read some about about a Door control receiver module. which that is basically a wireless receiver right? I would think if it could receive a signal and cycle the locks during programming then it should work normally??
I drove the car for years and just did not worry about it but have passed it down to my teenage daughter and would like her to be able to unlock the doors while approaching the car so she can just hop in and go without having to fumble around with keys.
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In have a 2005 Toyota Camry with 120,000 miles. Upon starting the engine there is a puff of blue smoke with smell of oil burning. There does not appear to be any smoke during the running of the car. What the root cause could be? Rings? Head gasket?
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I own a Toyota Camry that has about 180,000 miles. Yesterday, when I started the car, a high pitched whine occurred when the engine turned and the volume of the whine decreased after about 5 minutes (car was in park). The pitch of the whine increases when I accelerate, up to about 50 mph, and then the whine stops around the 50 mph mark. When the car decelerates, the pitch of the whine decreases. This does not seem to be linked in any way to the steering. The whine does occur when the car idles.
There are no alert lights on in the dashboard, only an odd noise.
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We have a 2005 Toyota Camry, had it since 30K miles/2008, now has 94K miles. Since we have owned it, the brake pedal feel has not been great, kind of mushy. It is the way this generation Camry's are. It gets driven mostly on fwy, so not much brake use. At 92K miles I changed the front pads and rotors, pads still had 30% left on them. The rotors were somewhat warped. Brake fluid has been gravity flushed every 2 years since 2008, last one in 2012.
Now, the problem is when wife drives it, twice at a lengthy red light, she has noted that the brake pedal "almost" sinks. It did not go to the floor, but the level went lower. The car did not move during this events. With the newer ABS brake systems, on all my three cars, after a full stop, I can push the pedal down further, almost close to the floor. The Camry is the same way, just with a baseline of mushy pedals. My wife only drives one of the other ones (Dodge Caravan,)and has not complained about that one.
The brake fluid level is solid/steady, no leaks at the wheels either.
Now looking at whats involved, seems I can change the master cylinder myself. The question is do I need to? I don't mind paying a mechanic to do a diagnostic too, just not sure what they are going to do. I believe, just as a defensive measure, they will go ahead and change the MC (which then I might as well do it myself). I could also continue to drive it, but don't want to be stupid here.
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When I start my '05 Camry (4 cyl - SE) it revs up to 2K, though only briefly. I don't like to go over 1,000 rpm until it's warmed up. Toyota dealer says that's normal ... Would it hurt to try it with the cold start (water temp) sensor unplugged ?........
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This is about my mother's 2005 Camry (4 cyl., about 21,000 mi.). She called this evening and told me that the engine kept going for more than a minute after she shut it off. She didn't notice any problems with the engine while driving, only when she shut it down. I assume that the car has an electronic ignition, so I'm puzzled. The transmission parking rod was just repaired, but I don't see how that would be related. I suggested that she fill half-empty tank with premium gas from a national brand.
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I recently brought my 2005 toyota corolla to my mechanic to give my car a check up as i will be going on a three week road trip soon.Upon assessment, my mechanic told me that my front right wheel bearing was making a strange noise and that i should replace it. I went ahead and had it replaced. after i had it replaced the front right wheel area was still making a grinding noise (louder than before it was replaced). I brought it back and he replaced it again with a new wheel bearing.
Again after the 2nd replacement it continued to make a load crunching, grinding noise when ever i brake the car. So once again, i brought it back. I thought perhaps it was my brake rotor and had him check that. He did just that and said the break was fine. He said it may be because the axl was not sitting true. so i had the axl replaced. well today i picked up the car and drove it approx 5 miles and the same crunching/grinding noise persists!!! I brought it back and it is once again being worked on. I need it fixed and am worried that my car won't hold up for my upcoming 4000mile road trip. I have attached a video clip of the sound to this post.
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I have a 2005 Nissan Altima and when I turn my air conditioning on my car starts rattling and shaking on the passenger side as well has makes some noises. When I turn the air conditioner off the noises and the shakes goes away. Is this something I should go have looked at or is this a problem I may have to wait until the situation gets worse, such as no air conditioning?
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2002, Has about 130k miles
1) Engine rattles at 3500rpm. Only at 3500rpm. 3000 is fine, 4000 is fine.
2) Just had my brakes replaced. They knock when I brake moderately, took it to the mechanic, who replaced them. They knock less now, but still knock. The knocking sound is kind of a pop that happens at 1 second intervals.
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2005 Toyota Camry 4 cyl not starting, not turning over, no clicking, not coming out of park, power windows not working
Here is what is working : headlights, interior lights, when you turn the key on there is 2 lights on the dash, has new battery.
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I have a 1996 Toyota camry and a 2005 chev classic. Both have 125,000 miles both need tires. The chef has had nothing serious done to it. I have replaced the master cylinder, radiator, timing belt, and water pump on the Toyota. I must sell one of them, but which one to sell?
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The car is a manual transmission 2005 Toyota Corolla with around 90,000 miles. I'm not the only owner. The car was bought used. It appears that the car was in a front end accident that doesn't appear in a carfax report. This can be identified by the poor clearcoat paint job on the hood flaking off and the absence of the air conditioner, as well as some rather pathetic body, work with noticeable bends and a few missing screws. Most of which I consider cosmetic and irrelivant to the car's operations.
The tires are bald and the car has had an alignment about 2 years ago after I replaced the struts. I wasn't notified of any bad ball joints, but that doesn't mean thats out of the question. The car has a bit of a shake at high speeds. Sometimes the shaking is violent enough to reduce speed. I noticed that more often the shake is really bad above 60 and quite scary above 70. This isn't always the case. Sometimes the shake isn't as noticable by comparison.
At low speeds the car seems to have a wobble or repeatative hop. The steering wheel has a rythmic pattern moving back and forth a few degrees. Enough to make holding a full cup or soda not a safe choice unless the desire is to wear the drink. The wobble appears to be a little worse when the car is cold. Winter mornings seem to bring out the worst in the wobble.
I would like to do as much work on my own as possible to save $, but I realize I may need professional service equipment to diagnose some of this. Can car tires be diagnosed for having bulges with some sort of test aside from visual inspection alone? Is there a tool that can be used to verify the metal of the wheel is true and not the source of the wobble? Do wobbles and shakes derive from bad tie rods and/or ball joints? What is the most common problem that produces symptoms similar to mine?
I enjoy the car's money saving potential, but it lacks an air conditioner which is vital for defrost operations and keeping the insane summer heat tolerable. If the repairs will cost me more than the car is worth I may choose to invest that money into a 2005 model as a replacement since I've grown tired of the lack of radio and no air conditioner. I'm trying to keep 5ish years behind the curve as not to waste money on the politics of new car value depreciation.
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