Toyota - Camry :: 2005 - Anti-Lock Brake Noise And Vibration
Dec 1, 2015
I was driving my Dad's Camry in the rain and at one stop I heard what sounded like the anti-lock brake noise and vibration. Heard it again when stopping on leaves. Didn't think much of it until I started noticing the same noise when the road was dry and clear. All the stops were gradual, from under 30 mph. The car stops fine, less the noise. I hear the noise approx 1 stop of 3 or 4 regardless of road conditions or weather.
What's the cause? Since it relates to the braking system is this something I should have the shop look at asap? This is a 2005 but with under 60,000 miles. Has been well maintained.
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I have a 2004 Explorer that the anti-lock brake light comes on. Brakes work fine. What to look for first ?
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Well I have a weird thing going on with the anti lock brakes. Its normally more noticeable when its cold. Coming to a slow stop you can feel the anti lock brakes pulsing slightly or more noticeably if you hit a bump braking at slow speed. The only mods to the truck are 285/70/17 inch tires and a leveling kit. Not sure whats going on with it, but i thought i should check here before getting my wallet lightened by the dealership.
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I have a '99 E350 van that I am feeling a light anti-lock brake pulse in the pedal when I am rolling to a slow stop under light braking. Braking doesn't seem to be affected, but it doesn't feel right. I tried locking up the brakes and didn't feel any anti-lock pulse...seems backwards.
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I recently had my wheel hub and bearing replaced. The mechanic said I might hear a little noise with the brakes but they'd work. Turns out that noise is the Anti-lock braking system engaging every time I use the brakes. It happens when the car speed gets low, maybe 5-15 mph. Also, if I'm driving slow in a parking lot or something, and let off the gas, that change in speed sets the ABS system on too, without my foot being on the brake pedal.
I've also noticed sometimes when the weather is very cold, the ABS light will go on and the ABS brakes won't work; just regular brakes. Is this something that I'd be able to solve at home? Could I possibly bleed the brake lines to check for any air ( although braking seems fine ) , busted fuse for the system, anything else to check before asking the mechanic?
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We have a 2005 Toyota Camry, had it since 30K miles/2008, now has 94K miles. Since we have owned it, the brake pedal feel has not been great, kind of mushy. It is the way this generation Camry's are. It gets driven mostly on fwy, so not much brake use. At 92K miles I changed the front pads and rotors, pads still had 30% left on them. The rotors were somewhat warped. Brake fluid has been gravity flushed every 2 years since 2008, last one in 2012.
Now, the problem is when wife drives it, twice at a lengthy red light, she has noted that the brake pedal "almost" sinks. It did not go to the floor, but the level went lower. The car did not move during this events. With the newer ABS brake systems, on all my three cars, after a full stop, I can push the pedal down further, almost close to the floor. The Camry is the same way, just with a baseline of mushy pedals. My wife only drives one of the other ones (Dodge Caravan,)and has not complained about that one.
The brake fluid level is solid/steady, no leaks at the wheels either.
Now looking at whats involved, seems I can change the master cylinder myself. The question is do I need to? I don't mind paying a mechanic to do a diagnostic too, just not sure what they are going to do. I believe, just as a defensive measure, they will go ahead and change the MC (which then I might as well do it myself). I could also continue to drive it, but don't want to be stupid here.
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OK so I'm driving a 2000 Toyota Camry. For the last few months it's been making a noise, kind of like a knocking/helicopter type noise, increasing with speed, and it's coming from the passenger side. Not sure if it's the front or the back. The Walmart tire guy said I needed an alignment in front.
At moderate speeds (30-40 mph), you can still hear it, barely. At highway speeds, it's really noticeable. It's really loud around 60 MPH with some mild vibration felt on the dash and in the seat, but interestingly enough, it's less noticeable at 70 MPH. Going around curves, it gets louder/more intense with curves to the left, and gets softer (or goes away) with curves to the right.
So, I posted this on Facebook, and a couple of people replied thinking it's a wheel bearing, most notably the front right. So, I jacked the car up and tried wiggling all 4 tires (like it says to do to check for this), but none of the tires wiggle.
To save money at the shop, what I want to do is buy the bearing or hub assembly if needed, and take it to the shop to have them put it on. Before I buy a part I don't need, I want to be sure. Does this sound like a wheel bearing issue?
I don't hear any humming, and the noise/vibration is unaffected by braking.
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I have a '05 Corolla with around 80,000 miles on it.I've noticed for the past few weeks that it makes a weird noise when I brake. It's what I would describe as a gurgling or almost groaning sound coming from under the hood. This only happens about every other day, and only when I've slowing pressing the brake to coast to a stop or slowing on a downward slope.
Took it to one mechanic who couldn't duplicate the sound and gave up.The brake pads are relatively new and the sound is definitely not coming from the tires.
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I have a 2005 Highlander that had repeated rear brake noise problem after the dealership serviced the brake in May this year. The sound was like dragging or grinding. After that, I brought my car back but the noise came up every time in 3-7 days. Here is the of the service record from the dealership:
5/31/2011: initial maintenance. Rotor resurfaced, pad replaced
6/17/2011: Adjustment and lubrication.
7/13/2011: Replaced the pad.
8/20/2011: Technician could not hear the noise during drive test. Ticket withdrawn.
8/26/2011: Tighten e-brake, lubrication.
Tech told me the left and right brakes were not balanced. I recorded the noise in the following Youtube video: [URL] .....
Turn volume up and notice the last two stops. What I should say to the dealership service? I plan to take the car back in a few days.
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I just bought a Camry 05 v4. it has 79k mileage. I hear some noises from engine area; what is this annoying noise coming from?
Here is my recorded video.....
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I been hearing a clicking noise coming from the back right side when I brake. The mechanic said this is not the case and has replaced the right wheel hub, and front axle, and the struts. He is searching for the noise as the noise seems to shift- it really is odd. The mechanic did pay for the axle as it is driving him crazy not to find the problem. I have ABS brakes and this is a 4cyl with almost 200,000 miles.
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05 Camry, 2.4L, 47K. Replaced the front brake pads two months ago. I put in Akebono pads and did nothing with the rotors as the original pads were not completely worn out and there is no vibration whatsoever in the pedal.
The pads have recently started making noise on brake application. I'm getting ready to take them back apart and re-lube everything. Should I take some sandpaper to the pads & rotors to knock off any glazing? Do I hit it with a course or fine grit? I have not had this problem happen in the past and was thinking that maybe it is the quality of the pads but I believe these are oem...
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My 2005 Camry started to make a, for a better work, "grinding" noise that appears to come from the left front side. It seems to appear around 40mph. Other symptoms:- the noise is not present when the car is in park even when revving up the engine- the noise appears to be correlated to the car/wheel speed - if placing the shift in neutral, the noise does not change while the speed doesn't change- if starting in 2nd gear, the noise only appears around 40mph when the engine is about 4500rpm.
Here it is a little hard to distinguish as the engine masks it- if switching the the 3rd gear, the noise does not change- if switching to "D", the noise does not change- coasting at neutral at more than 40mph still gives out the noise- when going over higher spots in the road (when the load of the wheels is reduced) the noise intensity goes down
There is no (or very low) noise at low speeds. Also, no noise when taking sharp turns. Had both front wheel bearings changed and the break pads, and the noise did not go away. I will be taking the car to a transmission place soon.
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My anti-lock brakes keep activating when i am slowing down from a speed above 10 mph once i reach a mphh. I have just installed koni sports on the front and bg springs all around with 20mm wheels spacers in the rear. The sound is coming from the driver side wheel and i can feel the brake pedal reacting in the way it does when the anti-lock brakes are activating. I haven't had a chance to take the wheel back of and check the sensors and wires.
It makes a grinding and popping kind of noise, which again remind me of anti-lock brakes.
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The anti-lock alert indicator of my 2000 Buick Century goes off and on every day or so in warm weather; seemed that it stayed on much longer in cold weather. Braking is fine, no other alerts associated with braking. Is this a common problem? Might this be oxidation on terminal connectors of wheel sensors since it's so intermittent??
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How do I know if my 1995 Chevy Lumina has anti-lock brakes (ABS)???
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I have a 2000 silverado. When I come to a stop, sometimes the anti-lock brakes will kick in. it makes that all too familiar grinding/clicking sound that I hear all winter. However, it is happening during the summer/fall. It doesn't happen every time I brake. It seems to happen most when I am coming to a stop on an uphill or downhill grade, or when I am stopping while turning. It doesn't happen the whole time while braking, just right at the end before the vehicle stops. It also seems to happen more frequently when it is warmer out. The tires don't skid while it is stopping either, which I guess is supposed to happen. It is a concern since it does take me a bit longer to stop when the anti-lock is going, and I never can predict when it will happen.
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My anti lock warning comes on after 1 mile of driving. If I test the anti lock on ice during the first mile the system works fine, around 1 mile the lamp lights.
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How to lock the trunk on the Camry? I used to be able to lock the trunk with the main key, and give the valet guy just the valet key. No I cant seem to find the lock on the trunk.
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My 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4 truck's anti-lock braking system is not working properly. When I slow down for a stop my anti-lock brakes kick in every time for about 1 or 2 seconds. What can I do to stop this from happening.
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My camry has been giving me this issue for last couple of weeks. The door will lock correctly using the key fob and by pressing the buttons on door of drivers + passenger. But while trying to unlock only the driver lock unlocks.
The car does not has any starting problems and I even tried a secondary battery to see if its a battery issue. The issue remains the same even the car is started or moving i.e. doors will only lock and will not unlock.
Someone said the Relays might have a problem and I was able to locate the two relays in the fuse box but I am not sure which one to pull out.
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