Toyota - Camry :: 2004 - Vibration After Motor Mounts Replaced
Aug 28, 2012
I have a 2004 4-cylinder Camry. Saturday I changed the passenger side motor mount which was broken and the front motor mount, which did not appear to be broken, but there was more play in it than in the replacement. I had to take the battery out and the air intake in order to have enough room to remove the front mount. To remove the front mount, I jacked up the engine with a 2 X 4 underneath the oil pan so as not to damage it. The passenger side wheel rose several inches off the ground. After everything was back together, the car ran rough at first but eventually got better. The only symptom that remains is a noise and slight vibration when the car is in drive. In neutral and all other gears there’s no noise or vibration. They noise seems to be slightly less when the car starts to roll, and after a few seconds in motion, I can’t hear it. What’s causing the noise? If there a third motor mount that I may need to replace?
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I replaced the motor mounts, and now there is a vibration at speed (70 or so). I've taken it to Michigan and back, so it is probably broken in. Can these things be put in improperly?
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I have a little vibration from the motor mounts which disappears with an extra soft touch on the gas pedal at idle. If I would keep the car I would change the mounts, but there are a lot of new parts already....I cleaned inside the plenum.....
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I have an '05 Dodge Neon SXT (4.0) with 113,000 miles on it. A few days ago, I had three cracked motor mounts replaced. However, I'm experiencing an increased amount of vibration when the engine is idle. I've had the timing belt , the accessory belt, water pump and valve replaced within the last year. I also recently had a coolant flush and an oil change. I was told that the timing belt cover is broken and I intend to have that fixed in the near future. However, I do not believe the timing belt cover is the cause of the vibration since it was broken and did not cause vibration before the motor mounts were replaced. Why I having the vibration?
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I am feeling more vibration at idle than I believe I've felt in the past. I can feel it in the seat more than I remember before. Granted, it's not like the car is shaking or anything, but I can feel it more than I think I should. Could this be the motor mounts?
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I had my motor mounts replaced about 2 weeks ago with APR ones and noticed that vibrates more than before at idle. is this normal? One guy told me that it takes about a month for the new motor mounts to adjust and then it will not vibrate that much. after two weeks no changes. Also I noticed that they did not put the rubber cover on the left motor mount (passenger side) could this missing rubber cover bring any issues on the short term?
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Going to replace motor mounts. Foot on brake and placed in gear engine flexes back about 2". Doesn't seem to flex side to side or forward. Replaced dog bone the metal in the middle of the bushing had a visible crack. Still flexes. I am confused about replacing them. Should I replace all including the 2 rear mounts? This is what I have read in many posts and been told by a trans shop. Can I just replace the front and dog bone? Parts guy told me that was all that I needed to do if it wasn't flexing side to side. These things are expensive 170- ea for oems so if I don't have to replace the rear I won't. However I don't want to trash the new ones cause I didn't replace them all.
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I bought an 89 celica gt back in december of last 2010. and my motor mounts recently went out on me and i was wonder how difficult it would be and exactly how many motor mounts does my car have? I am fairly new to car repair.
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2002 Passat 1.8T 170,000. My motor mounts have been slowly going bad for a few months now and they are now to the point where when I am slowing down as it is shifting down into third, it feels like I am being rear ended. My question is, is this doing damage to my engine and tranny or is it more of an annoyance.
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I recently found out my motor mounts are bad. Almost a year ago I noticed I was leaking coolant so I just filled it with water every time it was empty. Now I have been getting an overheating problem if it's not filled to the right amount. Just yesterday the problem got worse as there is green gunk at the opening of the radiator and it's always hot. The reservoir is filling up with hot water a lot of the time. My radiator will be empty when that happens. As I was driving the gauge was reading hot. Turning on the heater didn't work much. I tested it tonight, with the radiator full and 2 cups water in reservoir. Drove it a few blocks and turned off car. Radiator had lots of pressure and hot. The reservoir was same level.
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I'm suspecting that my motor mounts are going bad, but I'm not 100% sure. I have a video of the engine movement when slipping the clutch and revving the engine with the e-brake on. [URL]............................... I don't need high performance ones, but don't want to spend a ton on OEM ones either.
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So ever since i put stiffer motors mounts in my car, the trans has whined. It was perfectly fine before the new motor mounts.
Its not nearly as loud as what straight cut gears sound like....but after taking my car on a road trip to Atlantic City this weekend, it does get annoying after a while. Happens every gear but at low RPMS... 1900-3000 RPMS.
4th gear seems to be the worse. This is not my daily driver so i can live with it, but if it was my daily i would be annoyed and probably but the stock mounts back in. While on the road course i do not hear it because i am at high RPMS and the noise isn't really there (well it might get muffled by the sound of the engine but i hear no whine)
I actually hear everything going on in the trans to be honest, i can hear the clutch engaging/disengaging and every move i make with the trans. (i am glad i still have the dual mass because im sure the chatter would be 10 times louder with stiffer mounts)
I run OEM trans fluid... i have heard of some guys running different fluid to quiet it down some...
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just replaced the timing belt and water pump on my '97 Acura TL. (80k mi), It now vibrates in gear at idle,but runs like a champ above 1000 RPMs. Didn't do it when I took it in. Our trusted mechanic says it's the motor mounts. I say "how do motor mounts go bad overnight?" There are small drips on my driveway under the car.
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I suspect I have an oil leak where the oil pump mounts to the motor.
It looks fairly simple to replace, but I was reading in the Haynes manual something about the timing chain?
So I don't know if it's more involved than I think.
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A few weeks ago my battery died and I had to jump start my car. After the jump start, my heat wasn't working - no air will blow out on heat or A/C. I checked the fuses - all good.
I pulled the blower motor out and tested it and it worked hooked up to a battery. At one point when the blower motor was still in the car I banged it with a hammer and it turned on momentarily then shut off again.
Since the blower motor seemed to work outside of the car, I assumed it was the resistor that was bad. Replaced , and still no heat.
Could the blower motor be bad and just have worked hooked to a battery intermittently?
What else could it be?
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I have recently had my motor mounts and transmission mount replaced.
Before the replacement, the car would shake quite noticeably when the engine was being started (maybe even shake 'violently'). I thought this was normal until I had my motor mounts and transmission mount replaced. Now when I start the engine the SC430 doesn't shake at all. The difference is profound.
Just a head's up. I'm not sure what the implications are of running with bad motor mounts for a long time, but I decided to get it done because my car would shake when idle and at stop lights.
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So I had been noticing a bit of wheel hop in third gear before my UM flash. Just got the flash a few days ago, and I love it. But since then two things have arisen:
- When sitting at idle, the car vibrates. I can feel it through the brake/gas pedals and steering wheel. I didn't notice it prior to the UM tune. It's like an undulating feeling even more than a vibration.
- When upshifting, I now seem to get a clanging sound/feeling if I upshift anywhere less than about 3200 RPMs. It doesn't always happen, and it won't happen if I'm really fast with engaging the clutch after taking my foot off the gas. But it is disconcerting.
Prior to the tune, I had gotten used to the sort of bucking and whatnot when you let off the gas and learned how to shift to minimize it. But now it isn't as easy to do a mellow, smooth upshift under 3000 RPM's...i.e. if I just want to pull away slowly from a stop. My question is, do these sound like symptoms of bad motor mounts? The car has just under 25k miles on it. The mounts are all stock. I was wondering if the UM tune was just enough extra power to put one or more of them over the edge.
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Have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra 2.0, 4-dr sedan, with 120,000 ,miles on it. Since we bought it in 2007, there occasionally was a thumping noise, seemed like from the rear. Well now, I have just about changed everything you can think of on this engine. But when I put in gear, or am stopped at red light the cars idle is terrible, runs very rough. Someone said maybe the motor mounts? If so how can I tell, approx cost, and are there only the two?
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I have a 04 elantra and its driving me up a wall. when driving first thing till the trans warms up it has a harsh shift between 2-3 gears and its rough like all the motor mounts are bad and you dump a clutch. i have tried the tsb reflash and the adaptive learn still did it, Replaced the trans twice reflashed the computer after the last trans and redid the adaptive learn twice fist time at cold temp then redid the learn with the trans at full operating temp.
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Our pilot is 8 years old but has only 64, 000 miles on it. The dealership is recommending we change motor mounts and timing belt. Although the motor mounts don't seem to be broken and nothing is rattling we have to change the motor mounts due to the fact that the engine is moving more than an inch. Having said that in 6 months we have to put the pilot in long term storage for 3 years. Should we change the timing belt now given the low mileage and the long term storage situation?
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I have a 2002 santa fe 2.7. I just had the transmission rebuilt and since then have noticed a clunking sound when I shift into drive or reverse. It seems to be the lower motor mount is making noise from the motor moving the mount. I look at the mount and it appears to look good, but was wondering how I can really tell if a motor mount needs replacing or not.
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