Toyota - Camry :: 2004 - Locks Work Intermittently?
Aug 8, 2015
Toyota 2004 Camry door locks are working intermitently. I can only get in drivers door with door fob from outside. Inside, I can only unlock drivers door. Took to dealer and they said they tried the door fob and it work 50 times when they tried it. The key only works in the driver's side. The passenger side is very difficult to get to work. They said they couldn't do anything unless it was acting up. It does - when they are not there. Saw on line 2003 doors had a problem. What do I need to tell dealer to get them to fix this?
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My remote locks only work intermittently when I press the buttons on the key fob. The locks on the drivers door and rear drivers side door also only work occasionally. If it turns out it's the module in the driver's door, is there a way to repair it? Or must it be replaced?
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The electric door locks on the left side of my '99 Passat sometime don't work. The left rear works 90% of the time, but sometimes it doesn't lock. All I have to do to get it to work is unlock all the doors with and then hit lock and that cures it every time, and I have been living with that for 3+ years. The driver door lock sometimes decides to not lock or unlock at times. Normally it starts working on it's own when it feels like it, but again, it works 90% of the time. What the likely cause should be and how to go about getting it fixed?
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I have a 2005 Bonneville. Just recently the doors will lock and unlock on their own. The controls(windows/mirror) and lock on the drivers side works intermittently. The window and locks on the passenger side work correctly. At least I haven't found a time they don't work. Coincidentally, things started acting up after the drivers side widow was left open and a little rain came in. I have removed the mirror/window control panel from the drivers side, unplugged the connector, cleaned and put electrical grease on the contacts.. I did the same thing with another connector I could reach inside the door panel.
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I have a 2006 Camry and the power locks keep clicking intermittently -- irrespective of car being running or not running. We have two remotes and this happens with both the remotes. Problem started a few days after the car was detailed. What can I do -- very annoying clicking noise while driving?
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I own 2007 Camry and my door won`t lock with remote and push button to lock the door. ONLY driver door will respond to remote and push button. When I lock it, only driver door will lock. Light lights up when I press remote. Trunk works fine.
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Left my car on accessory overnight, went to get a jump in the morning, but a friend put the cables on the wrong ends, blowing everything up in the process.
I've swapped out the battery (battery is good), checked all smaller fuses (replaced almost all of them), but don't know where to go next.
Problems:1) Car does not recognize when car is started (ding does not go to half-time when car turns on, continues to ding when door is open as if door was open with the keys in the ignition and car off).
2) Power locks do not work
3) Dash Lights/radio/heater/accessory lights do not work, dome light does.
4) Car does not go into gear without manual bypass
5) Both low and high beam headlights work, ambers do not (unless hazards are on), taillights do not, brake lights do not. Haven't had the tools to check reverse lights.
Past that, everything runs smoothly and like a Camry should.
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Headlights work, done and door lights also work. Radio, door locks, and window controls do not. Car will no longer start and it doesn't seem to be the battery or starter, but I may be mistaken.
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Sadly I own a 2010 Toyota Venza. For about 3 months(since May) I have been having problems with the air conditioner and front defroster. It works intermittently. Sometimes it will work for 3 days straight. Sometimes it will stop working while driving(it will blow hot air), but most of the time if I am driving and it works it will keep working for the whole ride. If I need to restart the car after a short stop it tends to fail, and then the next morning is a crap shoot.
It seems to work better when it is hot out, but not always. I had a front end collision in November, and had the condenser replaced and the system recharged. The defrost worked fine all through the winter. Since May I have had the system recharged 2 times. the second time with dye in it (no leak). I was told to change the condenser valve (150.00), and then I was told that was not the problem, and that I needed to change the compressor ($2,000.00 for the part alone). The compressor seems to work.
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on my 04 supercab f150. one moment door locks work, the next nothing. started this weekend. its a bone stock truck with 128000 miles. sometimes work sometimes don't. have wiggled harness and connections outside the door. worked fine, pulled it out of the shop and parked it now not working again.
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So, I have a 2005 Toyota Camry remote locks have not worked for a while. Also started having the issue with the two front doors where the manual electric locks worked intermittently. I replaced the little RC car motors in the door lock actuators today and got that squared away so that works great now. I also ordered a new remote to program. I programmed the remote and everything seems to go fine with that (The locks cycle when they are supposed to etc.). However, once I program the remote it just doesn't work.
So, trying to figure out what is going on here. Should I just return the remote and try to get a different one...but would it even program if it the remote where not compatible.
Also, read some about about a Door control receiver module. which that is basically a wireless receiver right? I would think if it could receive a signal and cycle the locks during programming then it should work normally??
I drove the car for years and just did not worry about it but have passed it down to my teenage daughter and would like her to be able to unlock the doors while approaching the car so she can just hop in and go without having to fumble around with keys.
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I have a 2007 Camry LE and the locks on the passenger doors and back doors stopped responding to the remote key UNLOCK OR the driver side UNLOCK button. I have to manually unlock the three doors. However, the key LOCK and driver side LOCK button works fine. The issue is only with the unlock. I had the same problem couple of years back and it became alright on its own. Now am having the problem again. The strange thing is that, sometimes it all works fine and sometimes I have the issue. Whenever I click on the Unlock button once, the driver side door unlocks. When I click it again, i hear the sound in all the doors and also the indicator light flashes / I hear the beep sound. But the passenger door and back door doesn't unlock.
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2004 4x4 super crew cab. Door locks don't work from switches, touch pad on drivers ext. door or with key fob. I checked the fuses and both the 10 amp and 30amp fuses are good. Where do I go from here. some time ago I had the submerged wiring issue and corroded connections in the bottom of the rear door rail. Could it be the same issue in the front door?
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2004 Colorado w 5 cyl. About 4-6 times per year (randomly) the truck will either not start, or the electric locks won't work or the turn signal flashes radically or the electric windows won't operate. Currently the locks refuse to work on any door, but the windows work every where except the drivers door. Mechanics opinions seem to revolve around the body control module, but the error codes, don't seem to support this.
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I have a 2011 Camry LE and recently both rear door locks stopped responding to any form whether using the key fob or driver door controls(I have to manual lock and unlock the rear doors)However the rear windows work fine, which indicates the rear doors receiving power. This is really inconvenient. Looking for a clue to what's going on? Only the front doors (driver and front passenger) are operating properly.
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While raising both front doors windows, both windows stopped moving. Checked power locks and they didn't work either. Manual said to reset circuit breaker for this problem but where it's located and the manual doesn't specify either. Just need to know where the circuit breaker for the power windows and locks is located.
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this light comes on intermittently and does not go off unless engine is turned off, and then it goes out.
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Tranny loses all gears forward and reverse intermittently. I turn ignition off and on a couple times and everything is fine. It might be electrical because when I take key out of ignition and get out of car my power windows and radio are still working.
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I have a 2009 Prius with 65,000 miles and have recently noticed sensitivity trouble with the touch screen. At times it will not react to my button presses and other times if I touch one part of the screen the touch will be registered in another area of the screen. Usually I turn the screen off (if I am able to get the touch of the off button to register) and restart later.
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On my 2006 Camry, my ABS comes on intermittently when braking (~5% of the time) and the speed is very slow (5 mph or less). Exact speed is hard to say. I think one of the ABS sensors is misreading. No ABS fault light on dash.I have an explanation of how to check the sensors for AC voltage when spinning the wheel using a DVM.
1. Without a lift can I check this under the hood instead of at the wheel? Possibly at the plug into the ABS module.
2. Someone else on another thread mentioned that their dealership hooked in a monitor and drove around.
When I asked my dealership how they would diagnose this, they said they would do the same check as I mentioned above (#1). This would be expensive and since it is intermittent, they might not see anything. Do this monitor exists and what it is called?
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Intermittently, when I apply the brakes my car makes a wet, gurgling sound, as if I'm driving over wet rocks. My husband jacked up the car and said he sees something on the front axle CV on the right side, not on left, and said it looks like a bushing bearing. He said the brakes have zero grit and he let them spin under power (I'm relating what he told me as best I can, he's mechanical, I am not). I also have a rack and pinion leak, though small, he's worried about the hydroloic (sp?) assist going out. I can't say I know what any of this means, but he can't figure out why my car occasionally makes this terrible sound. I haven't noted any specific condition for the noise.
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