Toyota - Camry :: 2002 - Stopped Suddenly When Still In Drive
Apr 20, 2012
I've been having some problem with my 2002 Camry lately. It started when I was exiting off highway waiting at a stop light when my car just suddenly stop, while the car was still in drive. The battery light, engine light, and oil light came even though the music was still playing. So I put the car to park, turn the key to completely turn off the car and restart the car.
At first it sound like the car was going to start but as I turn the key and keep holding it for the car to start all the way, it just die again. I try again but this time I step on the gas pedal at the same time I turn the key and after two or three press on the gas pedal, the car work and all the light was off. Everything was fine. This would happen every other day and I would do the same thing to it but don't know why this is happening.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
While driving with cruise control set at 80 mph in my 2002 Toyota Camry, the engine suddenly revved up to 4200 rpm while going up a hill on the freeway. I was wondering if this sudden high rpm could do damage to the engine? The car has 163,000 miles on it.
View 8 Replies
2002 Toyota Camry
2.4 V4
My car has developed a rough idle when stopped and when accelerating. When I got the CEL, I had the codes read at Advance Auto.
The codes are P0301, P0302, P0303, P1349.
View 1 Replies
All of a sudden my radio and clock stopped working, k-checked fuses 20A, seem fine- two days later, the door chimes stopped working, and then the lights are one-chimes stopped, then the key in the ignition, and when the door is ajar, stopped dinging---is this a computer malfunction or sensor-WHICH ONE? 1997 toyota corolla........
View 2 Replies
I was driving my 2002 CRV with 86K miles on it, when suddenly the A/C stopped working and there was a burning smell. Immediately stopped A/C and took it to my local dealer, Honda. They say the compressor blew metal debris throughout the A/C system, destroying it completely. I am, of course, furious that a low mileage Honda in excellent condition would require this kind of repair. Should I have it done? Should I find another mechanic and get aftermarket parts?
View 12 Replies
My 02 6.8 v10 4x4 4.30 X has a big problem. I was driving on sand and all of the sudden it stopped and dies. Had no trans fluid and a dead battery. After paying $450 to get it off the beach i filled the trans fluid and got a jump and it runs. When put in gear wether in 4WD or not it does NOT move. Only when put in neutral and pulled ... red dot is pavement, blue is where i got to, star is where i broke down on the way out...smh
View 7 Replies
My car vibrates really bad when stopped and in drive. It does not vibrate in park or neutral. I took the car into my local mechanic who replaced the spark plugs, idle air control valve, throttle body gasket, charged me and it actually runs worse. The mechanic assigned to my car said he couldn't feel it so just replaced what he thought might be causing this vibration. It took me a day to calm down and take the car back and speak to the manager of the department who was amazed at how bad the car vibrated. 2002 Honda Accord 86,000 miles....
View 7 Replies
Shakes when in drive but stopped at a red light but if I put it in neutral, it stops shaking. 2002 Ford Escort
View 5 Replies
2007 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, automatic transmission, 147k miles. Was driving ab 60mph and slowing down as I approached a red light. Light turned green but car suddenly would not accelerate above about 20mph or 2000 rpm - ran fine as long as I stayed under 20, but when I tried to accelerate beyond that it started lurching like crazy and wouldn't accelerate. Pulled into a gas station and let it idle for a few mins while I checked the transmission fluid (has had a slow leak but I have been staying pretty on top of the fluid levels). Color and smell of the fluid was fine, but level was just a little low so I added some more fluid and let it cycle thru for a few minutes. Managed to get it home by staying under 20mph. Turned it off and basically ignored it for about 10 days due to being swamped at work. Went to start it up last night and the engine cranks but won't turn over and start. Lights, etc. all work. What gives? Praying this is not a transmission issue.
View 8 Replies
My car stopped in the middle of the road after going 55 mph. It wouldn't go drive or reverse. I did get It to go in neutral so I could push it out road. It has done this before but after stopping putting in park then drive it would go but not this time. What could it be and how much would it cost.
View 2 Replies
I have a '95 Camry LE with the 2.2L four cylinder. The car ran PERFECT. Went to town today, great. Get in it a few hours after returning, it will turn over but not start. It is getting fuel, no fuses are blown, but is not getting fire.
View 5 Replies
Changed the spark plugs, but the engine still idles rough while in drive and stopped. It's fine in park or neutral. P0303 popped back on today while warming up the car. Changing plugs significantly improved the idle...but it still is rough.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2002 Camry i4 with 158k miles. The transmission on it suddenly started slipping one day last week. My wife drove it in the morning and came back to say it was slipping and lurching a bit. I drove it in the afternoon around the block a few times to check it out, all normal. In the evening, wife took it out again and it dies 3 miles out. When I showed up, I was able to get it crawling at 5-10mph, but the engine was at near redline. So definitely slipping. Got it towed back home. The next morning, I back it out of the driveway and then up the driveway again just to see, and it seems fine.
This leads me to believe the issues is only when the transmission is warm. Transmission fluid is at a normal level. Dark red and smells bad, so due for a change. Is it too late to save the transmission?
Over the weekend, I drained and filled the transmission fluid with new T-IV (not a complete flush) to see. Drove it around the block a few times and no slipping, but I can hear a faint hum/whine, similar to when in reverse gear but softer. I can't say for sure if anything improved, I would have to drive it til warm to reproduce last week's conditions. I was too nervous that it'll die completely again and I'd have to push it home. The hum was enough for me to say, yes something is still wrong.
I called local mechanics to get quotes and advice. The ones that work on transmissions say a rebuild is required at a cost of $2000. Others say replace the transmission with used (new would be too expensive). Waiting for quotes on that. One guy suggested that the transmission computer would've failed to cause transmission to fail, so rebuild of both the computer and transmission is necessary. Does that make sense? Seems questionable to me.
What indication is it that the transmission would only slip when warm? Is rebuild or new transmission really my only option?
View 5 Replies
So one day my 4 wheel drive just stopped working, when I put in 4hi nothing same with low, the light on the dash doesn't even pop up and it doesn't engage. I've done about everything I could think of doing besides replacing the motor for it and the wiring, I hate getting stuck...
View 4 Replies
I drive a 1997 Toyota Camry with 210,000 miles on it. Recently, my brakes were grinding. My ex-mechanic father said he would replace them. When he took the wheel off, he found that the calipers were bound and had been for awhile, as the rotors and pads were metal on metal (whoops). Both sides were completely replaced- pads, rotors, and calipers (he figured if one caliper was binding, the other was or could be soon, though the wear wasn't as bad). He bled the brakes and things were ok for about a month and a half.
My new issue is that the brakes are binding on my drive home from work (after it sits outside for 7-10 hours). The car lugs along. I pull over, try pumping the pedal (which is very stiff) and then make my way home, where my boyfriend takes the car around the block and does something magic and the brakes are no longer stuck. They aren't stuck the next morning, but are when I get in the car at the end of the work day. The wheel wells smell strongly of burning rubber as well.
Things we have checked : We've jacked up both front wheels and the tires spin. They spin less easily when the brake binding problem is present, but they still spin. We've checked the suction, the hoses that connect the booster to the engine, and the brake booster- all appear ok. The brake fluid levels are fine. The pedal remains stiff when you put the car in neutral and even when you turn it off. So what do I do next? We're semi-handy and I'd like to drive this car a bit longer, though I've started the replacement car search.
View 2 Replies
The key fob for my 2006 Toyota Camry stopped working. I replaced the battery twice with new ones and it still doesn't work.
I bought a replacement key fob from Amazon and followed the instructions (along with the youtube video) many times to re-program the new key fob and it didn't work.
View 13 Replies
Our 2015 Prius 4 with 8,900 miles just suddenly stopped chirping and turning the lights off upon locking. The courtesy lights also no longer work (the lights worked last night as I approached the car but not tonight. The locking chirp/beep worked 3 hours ago but not now. Also headlights no longer go out after double clicking lock on either of the 2 fob.)
View 13 Replies
I have 2005 Toyota Camry LE (V4 2.4L), for some reason it stopped shifting gears, weird part that it does drive on 1st or 2nd gear but then it won't shift to the next gears, instead, it acts as if I am on neutral, doesn't matter how much gas I push or how high RMP goes the car just rolls as if I switched to neutral.
Once the RPM goes high, I stop the car, turn of the car, turn it back again and then it wouldn't even shift into first gear, it acts as if I am in neutral. Additionally, the reverse in the car works as it should, no problem there. The check engine light is not on!
What have I already done: Changed oil in transmission (just in case the oil was dirty - it was dark), unplugged battery for an hour (see if computer needed resetting after transmission oil change).
I googled the symptoms and it seems like there could be solenoid problem and that there is like four of them in V4, which type of solenoid could have failed, will cleaning it useful or is the electrical problem in the solenoid, or is there some kind of other problem.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2000 Camry Solara V6 with about 108K miles on it. The car has recently started to give the following problem: The car starts without any problem in the morning and runs smoothly. There is no problem while the engine is in idle mode. The problem starts when after driving for a while I shut the engine, say for filling in gas. When I try to start the engine again the engine will start, idle for a couple of seconds and then die.
The engine doesn't keep on running in idle mode. I can keep the engine running by pressing on the accelerator and keeping the rpm above 1000. Once I drive for a few feet then the engine doesn't die even if I idle at a stop light. This generally happens only after I shut the engine after having driven the car for a few miles and then start the engine again within the next 20 minutes. The battery is in good condition. Any clues on what the problem may be?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 45,000 miles, and my Camry engine is starting to shake when I put it in drive. My "Check Engine" light starts to flash. I haven't had any other problems, so I was surprised when this started to happen.
View 4 Replies
This morning I was at a stop light and my car started to sputter and as I accelerated it drove just fine. Then it happened again at another stop and also while going uphill it sputtered and bogged down. Could it be a bad fuel pump? Or maybe I need a tune up?
View 17 Replies
