Toyota - Camry :: 1999 - Brakes Went Out
Jan 4, 2014
A few hours ago my friend was getting off the interstate driving a 99' Toyota Camry. She went to use the brakes and they had no effect. They did not go all the way to the floor and she says there was a lack of pressure/resistance , then a grabbing feeling before the floor but no effect and no sounds. She had to use the emergency brake. It was 14 degrees last night and above 32 today. The brakes worked from the house to the interstate, then did not.It has been towed and so far the mechanics say they can't find anything wrong.
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I drive a 1997 Toyota Camry with 210,000 miles on it. Recently, my brakes were grinding. My ex-mechanic father said he would replace them. When he took the wheel off, he found that the calipers were bound and had been for awhile, as the rotors and pads were metal on metal (whoops). Both sides were completely replaced- pads, rotors, and calipers (he figured if one caliper was binding, the other was or could be soon, though the wear wasn't as bad). He bled the brakes and things were ok for about a month and a half.
My new issue is that the brakes are binding on my drive home from work (after it sits outside for 7-10 hours). The car lugs along. I pull over, try pumping the pedal (which is very stiff) and then make my way home, where my boyfriend takes the car around the block and does something magic and the brakes are no longer stuck. They aren't stuck the next morning, but are when I get in the car at the end of the work day. The wheel wells smell strongly of burning rubber as well.
Things we have checked : We've jacked up both front wheels and the tires spin. They spin less easily when the brake binding problem is present, but they still spin. We've checked the suction, the hoses that connect the booster to the engine, and the brake booster- all appear ok. The brake fluid levels are fine. The pedal remains stiff when you put the car in neutral and even when you turn it off. So what do I do next? We're semi-handy and I'd like to drive this car a bit longer, though I've started the replacement car search.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry, I was having a noise from right rear and every now and then the car would start slowing down like I was braking. I replaced all four calipers, rotors and the pads, then bled the whole system. The noise went away, but the car still seems to engage the brakes, but only after a few minutes of driving, but then it goes away.
I thought it was a single brake line, but after not driving it for a week, yesterday I was driving it and after about 20 minutes it started again, when I pulled over all for wheels were smoking, after allowing it to sit for a few minutes, I was able to drive home 30 miles without it happening again. Would this happen with just one line bad, as someone suggested, or is this an issue with the master cylinder, bad brake fuild or something else?
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I have 1992 toyota camry recently bought 68k miles on it ok the brakes were bad so i change all four brakes drums and pads
with in a month my right rare brakes gon again pads all the way to the metal so i thought caliper might have gown bad i change the
caliper next month my left rare brakes gon pads all the way to the metal again i change the caliper. its not over yet with in one month my right rare brakes
gon pads completly so what seems to be the problem.
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I have had this problem since two weeks now. Basically I have bad tail light indicator on the dash and bad brakes indicator on the dash some times and some times not. Both come on at the same and turn off at the same time. But when the dash is lit, the car wont crank. Couple of tries later (15-20mins) later the warnings are gone and car starts.
This happens every time only in two gear positions i.e Par k and Neutral. After the said time gap, the two warnings start blinking. That's when the engine will crank. And after couple of tries, the engine comes to life. I have checked all the fuses, checked the battery, alternator, tail lights for lose wires But couldn't find anything solid.
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My wife has a 2005 toyota camry with about 84000 miles. She had been complaining of intermittent issues but no one could find the cause till yesterday. Her front brakes were froze and would not release. I took it to the shop and they said the left front was hung and the pad came off and chewed the rotor up. They suggested a brake job. Well in the process of replacing rotors and pads on the front they could not get the caliper to release. Make a long story short, the rotor and pads are changed but the front brakes will not release. They checked the lines and they look good.
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Two days ago I had the front brake pads on my 2003 Toyota Camry LE replaced because they were squeaking when I stopped. That squeak stopped, but after driving about 15 miles, I heard a squeaking noise AFTER I took my foot OFF the brake pedal. Pressing the pedal makes the squeak go away. I took the car back the next day and they changed the front rotors. While driving home, the squeak returned. I took the car to my regular mechanic this time. He says the guys who installed the brakes didn't clean anything when they put the new ones on, so he disassembled everything, cleaned the rotors, etc. and put everything back together. He also said they put the wrong pads on the car - I need ceramic pads and they used the metallic kind. Well, the brakes are still squealing when I'm not pressing on the brake pedal and stop squealing when I do press it.
Characteristics of the squeak....It only seems to happen when I drive the car more than 5-10 miles. When I drive a short distance, it doesn't happen. The sound is rhythmic, not constant. If I step on the brake and let if off slowly, like at a stop light, I can hear it "squeak, squeak, squeak" as the tire rotates. The faster the wheel spins, the more constant the sound. It only seems to come from the driver's side.
I hate to take the car back to the original shop because I don't think they know what they're doing. I'm scared of getting ripped off at one of the big chains (I'm a female and of course whenever I take a car in for service at one of those places "everything needs to be replaced.")
Will Toyota ceramic pads fix the problem? Can the wrong pads cause the brakes to squeak when you're not stepping on the brake pedal? Someone else suggested it might be the caliper binding and that would require replacing it.
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I drive a 2003 Toyota Camry. For the last six months or so I feel a skid on one of my tires when I hit the brakes a little harder than usual. It seems the problem occurs after the car has been driving for a while. I took the car by my repair shop the last 4 or 5 times it happened and they assure me that the treads of the tires and the brake padding are fine and cant explain what it is I am seeing. They think everything is fine.
the symptoms are that I drive for a bit and then when I hit the brakes the car seems to skid a little before coming to a full stop. Its kind of what happens when you drive a car with balding tyres.
This is driving me crazy. The car has only had about 70 miles on it and I have had to rebuild the engine one time so I am reluctant to get rid of it too soon. I know there is a problem but for the life of me I cant figure out what it is,
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My husband noticed that our 2001 Camry was driving strange. He thought it was a problem with the brakes locking up. When I drove it, I felt like the front of the car was a little wiggly and thought we might need an alignment. When we took it in, they said that the brakes are okay, but that the front struts are "soft." They said that the front struts need to be replaced, which includes an alignment, and we should replace the rear struts at the same time. They said we should get new tires at the same time.
I've been trying to research it some, and we don't have a lot of the problems associated with bad struts. We haven't noticed any bouncing or anything like that. I think they are honest mechanics, but my husband doesn't trust them. We don't have enough money to get all that work done right now, so my question is, can we wait until we notice bouncing or the tires get worse to have the work done? (We would be trying to save up the money in the meantime.) Or, can we just take care of the front struts and wait on the tires and rear struts? Should we just get a second opinion? (The car does have 145,000 miles on it, and I've never had the struts replaced. I bought it with about 65,000 miles on it.)
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I changed the front brake rotors & pads on my wife's 2009 Toyota Camry & everything seems fine except when doing sudden or slightly hard stops it seems to do a clunk/knock type sound from the front brakes. It also only does it sometimes not every hard/sudden stop.
One thing that comes to mind is that when I went to tighten one of the guide pin bolts it was a real pain, the big bolt that the screw threads into kept spinning making it hard to tighten the bolt into & none of the others did this. I thought I tightened it down but possibly not?
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2003 toyota Camry. when coming to a stop and hitting brakes there is a poping sound. It almost sounds like metal hitting each other. What is this or causing this!?!? Also it is a 4cylinder automatic with 100000miles.
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Intermittently, when I apply the brakes my car makes a wet, gurgling sound, as if I'm driving over wet rocks. My husband jacked up the car and said he sees something on the front axle CV on the right side, not on left, and said it looks like a bushing bearing. He said the brakes have zero grit and he let them spin under power (I'm relating what he told me as best I can, he's mechanical, I am not). I also have a rack and pinion leak, though small, he's worried about the hydroloic (sp?) assist going out. I can't say I know what any of this means, but he can't figure out why my car occasionally makes this terrible sound. I haven't noted any specific condition for the noise.
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Our 2010 Toyota Camry makes a squealing noise as we back out of our garage.Does this mean we new rear brakes?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry that we purchased 14 months ago. When purchased it had bad brakes so the dealer replaced the rotors and calipers at their expense. A month ago I took the car in for a routine oil change and was notified that my rear calipers were stuck open and that my rear brakes were not working and rusted. The rotors look hardly worn, the one on the passenger side has some deep grooves in it and the driver side is pitted. We feel that we had poor work done when the brakes were replaced and that the back never worked. After the brake job was done we would get some "chinging" noise in the back brakes and I had them inspected twice and they said everything was fine. But now we find out they weren't fine.
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I have a 99 Camry 4 cyl, 146k miles. I change the oil every three months since I never hit 3k miles in that time. I noticed that when I drain the old oil only about one quart comes out so I've started adding a quart between changes when it starts getting low. I haven't seen any oil spots in the driveway or smoke from the tail pipe. I know there could be other reasons for losing oil, is there possibly something wrong that's worth fixing or is it just older and high mileage and I should expect to have to add oil?
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My 1999 Camry (4 cylinder) has 97, 500 (+ or -) and back when cars had points etc. I used to do some of the work myself.
Anyway, I want to change the air filter. I did some research online which instructed me to push back the "accordian hose" connected to the air mass meter (or whatever it is called). Easy enough, however, the accordian hose is solid. It does not have the ability to flex.
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I have a '99 toyota camry with about 212k miles, it runs great, almost like new,i get the same or better gas mileage than what toyota says it got brand new. I have noticed that when I am going about 40 to 80 mph when I step on the gas to speed up just a little it vibrates for a split second like if I went over some rumble strips. it happens noticeably when I gently step on the gas and not as much when I step on it to gain speed faster. Is this something I should take care of soon? Is it dangerous to keep driving like this? and what could be causing this?
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My wife just called who is out of town. The engine light just came on our 1999 Toyota Camry. The car is driving fine, the car temp is very normal. Is it critical to get it checked our right away? Or can we wait until she gets home? Is it OK to drive around? She is 70 miles from home visiting for a day and a half and will come home tomorrow.
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I have a 1999 Toyota Camry It runs perfect. It has app. 141,000 miles . It uses about 1 quart of oil every 800 to 1000 miles. Why it sees to use more oil if i drive in the mountains and use the transmission as a brake by downshifting to preserve brakes.. There is no smoke I can see and the oil usage seems to go up to about 1 quart of oil every 600 to 800 miles if i drive in the mountains this way just a couple of times.
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I have a Camry 99, LX 2.2L (99k miles on it) that just died while I was puling out of my driveway. Unfortunately, it wont start anymore. I had problems with alternator for the past 2 years. Last year I just replaced the alternator and the battery. It all went well after that. A check engine light for EGR Valve came on, replaced the valve but the light comes back after 30 mins. Anyway, the car runs so I ignored the check engine light. Then this problem occurred. Before going to the alternator replacement again, I first did a tune up.
Replaced all 4 plugs, high tension wires, and the coils. The engine seems to choke at first start, then the rest of the trials are the same old cranking. The battery seems ok, pulls 13.8v when the engine is not running (I couldn't make it start anyway). I could not check the engine light too because the engine wont start. I may say I'm the guy who do small repairs, changed my own timing belt and water pump and do my own oil changes. But this one caught me on a dead end.
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I have an automatic 6 cup and get a P1780 error code. Says to check neutral shift sensor, which I replaced. Code came back. Internet search says to try wire loom in trunk, driver side. Opens 2-3' of it and found no frayed or broken wires. All lights work fine. Car shifts fine. No other issues other than check engine light and that code. Where else to check?
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