Toyota - Camry :: 1998 - Sputters When Touch The Gas At Low Speeds Inconsistently
May 12, 2012
My Camry is idling low. Car runs smooth while cold. Car sputters when I touch the gas at low speeds inconsistently. After a brief period it picks up and runs great. It gets worse throughout the day. It is the worst in the evening after driving back from work or town. I have changed the spark plugs. It ran a little better after that. It ran a little better after new front tires. Vehicle is front wheel drive. Just replaced both cv axles but the problem started before replacing them. Also I have replaced the fuel filter. I also introduced a half can of Sea Foam directly into the engine through a vacuum tube and reved it. Lots of black smoke came out. I took the other half of the can and put it in the gas tank with four gallons of super when the fuel was fairly low. It now has more "get up and go" after the initial sputter and better gas mileage but the initial problem is still there.
The problem started after I left the key turned on and killed my battery. A friend jumped me off with his xterra. He revved his engine and I cranked mine and it started that's when this issue started. Car also has a muffler leak in two places. I had the flex pipe redone. The muffler shop had to weld it on. The weld in the front of the flex pipe leaks a bit and the connection after the exhaust manifold and before the flex pipe leaks a bit. This was very apparent when I sea foamed it. The o2 censors ( it has two) are costly. So my next step will be to take then out and scrub them with a wire brush, no chemicals. Also I am going to have the weld touched up on the flex pipe. The mechanic did his best to tighten up the connection after the exhaust manifold and could not get it any tighter.
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My 1998 V6 Camry has rattle on right front and now starting on left too. Bad shocks were replaced and still rattles going over bumps at speeds 20-35. Don't notice on freeway. Car drives fine, no pulling or other problems just irritating noise at slower speeds. Two different mechanics say the Strut mount plate is loose. Could not find any other problems? Is it okay to leave the mount plates in place? Mechanics say other than annoying there isn't a problem.
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So my 1999 car sputters while driving and at lights and when I pull off I have to floor it but not only that's the oil light flashes while I do that. It has 210,000 miles, what's wrong?
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I have a 2006 Subaru Forester with 115K miles. It's been well-maintained and well-loved.
For the past few months, the brakes have been inconsistently making a dragging/grinding noise when coming to a stop at low speeds (<5mph). It sounds to be coming from the front half of the car - I can feel it vibrating a little near the driver side. We've taken the car in to be looked at three times - each time, the mechanics think they've heard the noise and report there is absolutely nothing wrong with the brake pads or rotors. Twice they reported a shim was out of alignment. After the last shim adjustment, the noise got a little better - instead of grinding, it's more of a dragging sound now. Because the noise is inconsistent, I haven't been able to crack the formula of the conditions that produce it, other than that it only happens as I'm coming to a stop at very low speeds.
Is there something besides the brakes we should be having inspected? Does this sound safe to drive?
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1995 Camry 2.2 4cyl 165,000 miles FED (not CA).
Two days ago while doing a routine oil change I noticed my kids engine compartment was real dirty as we had alot of flooding from rain a few weeks ago. I sprayed the engine with a water hose w/nozzle to clean it. At the time I didn't know any better. The car was driven without any issue briefly that day. The following morning the car was driven a distance of 25 miles without incident.
After resting 30 minutes the car was started and began to idle rough and stalled repeatedly. When I showed up to inspect the issue it had been sitting about an hour. I went for a test drive and the car ran good. About 20 minutes later iI get another call saying the car is doing it again. It was sputtering/ hesitating when I attempted to accelerate it began to stall unless I limped it along staying off the gas.
Once I got it home I started doing some research and discovered that my spraying water in the engine compartment was probably what caused the issues I was experiencing. So I began to go through the motions trying to repair. I also noticed the car ran good when cold but at operating temp it would run rough. The check engine light has not come on.
I replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, etc... sensor, and air filter, I cleaned the throttle body port and IAC valve port with sea foam cleaner. I cleaned and tested the EGR valve & ports. Nothing has improved from my efforts.
I must of screwed something up good, since its been 2 days, it should be dry by now. I also been thinking that maybe some water got to the injectors. NOt sure if a cause, but the oil was changed right before I sprayed engine.
My course of action as of right now is.
1.Check and clean all electrical connectors
2.Replace distributor with a re-manufactured one
3.Replace upstream o2 sensor
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2004 BMW 530i : 73k miles : Our car sputtered for a few months. Basically, at low speeds (either in traffic OR stopped at a traffic light) car would sputter and completely STOP. I've to put it back in "PARK" and restart. Just last week it that several times while coming back from work and then, eventually completely STOPPED to restart. It will try to crank up and but would not. After giving it 20minutes break - when I tried, it restarted again. Not sure what's going on or what I should look at.
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I had a problem with my steering wheel shaking at various speeds. Eventually I found a bad inner tie rod and replaced it. The shaking is gone, but whenever I get over 70 mph there is still a very small vibration. I had all 4 wheels aligned after changing the tie rod. Tires are brand new, less than a week old. The mechanic checked my ball joints while doing the alignment and said they were good. Could my struts be causing the vibration? They need replaced, not sure if the previous owner ever replaced them and the car has 225,000 miles.
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This is Toyota Camry 98 with V6 3.0 engine.After smelling burnt oil while driving (mostly during stops, to be more precise), I took the car to Toyota service mechanics. They found leaks in both valve cover gaskets, and a leak from behind the timing belt cover. The leaks from valve covers were dripping onto exhaust, causing the burning smell.
The total repair cost is quoted at around $2k ($700 for valve covers and $1300 for what is behind the timing belt assembly).
Is it worth doing ? My worry is that, since 3 separate seals are failing, it is likely that other seals will start failing soon.Should the whole engine be rebuilt instead ?
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I've got a 2002 Toyota Camry with 96,000 miles on it. Car has been running fine for years but on a recent 250-mile drive I noticed a whirring noise (almost like the engine of a remote-control electric car). The noise is faint, but definitely new. I'm fairly sure it's coming from the under the hood, or at least from the front half of the car. No vibrations. The noise is only audible at highway speeds, and really only present when I'm accelerating (or on cruise control). It seems to get slightly worse if the car is climbing a hill.
Some things that have been worrying me:*I left the car in a friend's driveway all summer. Could that have anything to do with it? (There were no noticeable problems when I got back, which was months ago--when I came back after two months, I simply re-connected the battery and the car started on the first try).*I had a transmission fluid change about 2K miles ago. It was at a Jiffy Lube. They "flushed" the old fluid. They claimed they used the correct Toyota brand fluid. (I've since read that flushing the old fluid can be a bad idea for older cars.) Could this have something to do with it?*I just had my snow tires put on two weeks ago (and this is the first long drive I've done with the snow tires on). The guy who changed my tires took about 2.5 hours to do the job, saying "this is only his second week." The car is steering fine, and not drifting or anything, but could that mechanic have done something to the tires that is causing this highway-speed, acceleration-only whirring noise?
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Intermittent problem, noticed mostly at low speeds, where car will buck or lurch forward. Most noticeable when accelerating after a slowdown, i.e. applying gas after coasting. No check engine lights, oil & transmission fluid is full. Car has 105K miles, tranny & coolant flushed every 30K, oil changed every 3K, tuneup w/plugs& wires @ approx. 93K, timing belt @ 70k. This car is a gem, mostly driven on the highway that has been perfect until now. Things I've considered doing: replacing timing belt, transmission solenoid, computer sensor that controls tranny. My suspicion is its tranny related but maybe not. Is there a way to check/set the timing on this car? I remember years ago using a timing light on my chevy. This is weird, it will run perfect smooth in the morning and rough with lurching in the afternoon. Could be a total coincidence but it seems to run ok when its cool and not so when it is hotter.
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My 1998 Toyota Camry with about 157k creaks esp around turns and even more with adult rear seat passengers (not my in-laws my husband's). When my dealership did a really expensive routine service on my car said the front links and bushings needed to be replaced, but after the amount they charged me I had no money left. Would fixing these fix my creaking? If not should I do replace them anyways?
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My son's 1998 shook and cut off at a red light today. I am taking it to be fixed and do not want to be taken for a ride financially. What it could be, so I can show up at the repair shop professing some knowledge?
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I just bought a 2009 Toyota Camry with 78K miles on it. Everything is great except at highway speeds it shakes and vibrates when braking. The higher the speed the worse it is. Steering wheel shakes as well. I pulled both front tires off and the rotors appear to be smoothe on both sides with no grooves, etc. However, I'm due for new front brake pads. There's some pad left but could that be why it shakes and vibrates when braking? How do you tell if rotors are warped? Rotors are smooth but could they still be warped?
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I drive a 2001 Toyota Camry LE, 2.2 4 cylinder. It has about 206k miles on it… About 2 months ago I started to feel slight hesitation when I was driving…. It was so slight I wasn’t sure if it was happening or not. Recently the hesitation has become much worse… typically it will hesitate and jerk when I try to accelerate from slow speeds… this primarily happens when the car is cold. It will also jerk and hesitate when I am cruising at a fixed speed. If I step on the gas, the jerking stops.
Here are known issues and recent work I have had done… in November I replaced my complete exhaust system myself, including the downstream oxygen sensor. The cat is now bad and it will rattle. I had a mechanic replace my water pump, timing belt and all pulleys and tensioners associated with it about 2 weeks ago. The hesitation predated this problem.
About 5 years ago I replaced my own plugs and wires… when I did this; I noticed oil on one plug. This was for the cylinder closest to the driver’s side. I never noticed any issues with the performance of my car related to the oil, and I do not burn through much… perhaps a quart every 2 months. About a week ago I replaced my plugs and noticed the oil again. I do not know if this relates to my hesitation problem or not. I also filled my tank and used a container of injector cleaner, thinking perhaps a clogged injector was causing the problem.
The problem still exists.
Now I am thinking it might be one of two problems… either a defective ignition coil or a bad throttle position sensor. Yesterday I borrowed a code reader… it told me I had “long fuel trim in bank 1”.
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My 22 year old daughter drives my 98 Toyota Camry. The lights in the dash have burned out. I need to find out how to replace those bulbs or should I just tell her to be home before dark or maybe tape a flashlight to the steering wheel?
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Every once in a while I'll go to start my car and it will stall right away. I'll try again and it will continue to stall. If I give it gas as soon as it starts I can keep it running. Yesterday it did this when I left from work. I held the rpm's at about 1500 and after about 10 seconds the rpm's jump about 200 or 300 and it idled. Sometimes it even idles really low. About 500 rpm. I've done plugs and wires (oem), air filter, PVC, ecu coolant temp sensor, fuel cleaners every 3 or 4 months. This has happened about 6 times in the passed 4 months. Runs great otherwise b
1998 Toyota Camry, 2.2l, Automatic, 125,000 miles
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I have a 2001 Toyota Camry, Manual, with about 190,000 miles on it and I am having 2 issues that may or (more likely) may not have anything to do with one another.
1) I am experiencing really high (over 3k) RPMs at the lowers speeds in each gear right after I shift, especially in 5th gear. After a few seconds, if I back my foot off the gas, the RPMs drop down to a normal level and increase at a normal speed. Several other people have posted this and supposedly this car might lock me out of overdrive if its cool, but I have a manual, could this be my problem? Also it happens at least sometimes in lower gears as well, it does seem like the car is staying in a lower gear rather than changing when I change it.
next problem
2) My car has gotten really loud, its not a weird noise, just kind of a vrooming type sound, however it is coming from the back of my car (maybe more on the right) when I turn left the sound gets louder and when I turn right the sound goes completely away.
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I have a 98 1.8t TIP and this problem just started happening when I slow down to stop the rpm's drop and it almost dies but it catches it self and the needle bounces a few times and it is fine after that.
Also when I start the car the rpms bounce like three or four times but it again, catches itself and its fine after that... until i want to come to a stop again.. I live in the city and its a lot of stop and go.
Also when i slow down it feels like my car slams into first gear. it shift perfectly every other time up and down, only when it goes into first it hits hard and scares me cause I don't want anything to go wrong.
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I've been having frequent problems with my car.
Here's the information about it:
200,000 miliage
engine light is on when key is in ignition, but goes off when car starts up
Four cylinder engine
Here's the problem:
Car stalls intermittently
when it is about to stall, when i slow down, car putters a bit, and RPM gauge shakes wildly
when coming to a complete stop, car shuts off completely, and when trying to start back up, engine chokes.
Temporary solution:
I put the car in neutral and floor the gas pedal, then the car works again.
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I have a 1998 Toyota Camry. A week ago the instrument panel lights and parking lights would not go off after I turned the car off. At first this only happened once or twice but within days it was happening frequestly. In order to get the lights off, I had to turn them off and on frequently in order for the lights to finally go off. I have had the multi function switch replaced but after a few days the problem returned
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The 98 camry has steering wheel shudder after the new tires have been put on. Do I need alignment. will that work now that my tires are scalloped? The guys at the tire shop balanced the tires. the shudder was there on the old tires too, which were severely scalloped. or pitted. Can i do alignment myself?
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