Toyota - Camry :: 1998 - Air Leak And Hissing Sound At The Connection Of Master Cylinder
Oct 15, 2014
There is an air leak and hissing sound at the connection of the master cylinder to the brake booster. Brake pedal travels nearly to the floorboard before engaging the brake. What is the problem and how can I fix it myself? (Special note: the brake fluid was very low and is now topped off to the maximum level . Adding the brake fluid caused very little change to the brake pedal travel.)
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I have a '99 Silverado 250 with a leak between the brake reservoir and the master cyl. Mechanics tell me there is no gasket. How can I get it to stop leaking?
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My 2003 Toyota 4 Runner with 104K miles recently started showing a brake light off and on. The brake fluid reservoir was at the minimum level and there was some residue leaking from the bottom near a silver disc. Took it to a mechanic and was told it was most likely the master cylinder leaking brake fluid. Is this normal wear and tear or is it unusual in this vintage vehicle? I do not notice any brake slippage at this point. Should I take this to the dealer and ask why this master cylinder is faulty? I thought Toyotas were long life vehicles?
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I recently noticed that my brake fluid was leaking in my 2003 Hyundai Elantra and upon further inspection I found the leak was coming from a part near the master cylinder. I looked online and couldn't figure out if this part was part of the master cylinder or brake line or a part all on its own. I tried tightening it but It still leaks some. I read a similar post online and that it could just be that the washer needs replaced but I just wanted to check on here to see what the part is called and if I should just replace the whole thing. I included photos as well.
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I have replaced the cruise control cut off switch and post-recall pig tail twice in two years for fluid leaks. Whats the deal do they all leak?
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I've got an o2 camry with 150K that seems to be losing brake fluid from the "right" side of the reservoir. Which brake lines are supplied by the "right" half of the master cylinder reservoir? I have read that they could be diagonally piped.
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Our 2002 LE Camry master-cylinder reservoir is loose, at least with the engine not running. Is this normal? It moves about 1/4", side-to-side. With the engine running, the pedal almost goes to the floor, but I've been told that's normal. I'm not sure that it is, but my wife seems to get by with it that way. Our engine is 4cyl.
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I have a 2004 Camry LE with 214,000 miles on the clock, and this car has had needed maintenance pertaining to the braking system ever since I bought it in January. Let me give you some background on past issues/maintenance before I dive into my current issue.
During the test drive, the brake pedal felt extremely soft/spongy, having to travel a lot farther than any other car I've driven (even my father's full size pickup had stronger brakes). My dad dismissed it just being the way the car was. In hindsight I would've walked away or slept on it, but let's just say I was pressured into buying the car right away.
We took it to my trusted local mechanic a few days later for an overall inspection, and he said the front brakes/rotors needed to be replaced. He said the rear brakes were thin, but could be replaced later down the line. So we replaced the front ones, expecting it to have some improvement. In reality, the brake pedal force was still the same as before.
A few months later, after hearing faint squeaking coming from the rear brakes, the brake light started to illuminate intermittently. That's when we decided to replace the rear brakes/rotors. After we replaced the rear brakes, braking motion was dramatically improved, and I did not have to push the pedal very far to achieve adequate braking power. It was great,while it lasted.
It gradually started to go back to the way it was, which is really disappointing. After growing tired of the problems, I decided to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and it was practically at the minimum line! Figuring it was a brake line or master cylinder leak, we took it again to my mechanic to have him inspect the braking system. Much to everyone's surprise (including my mechanic), there were no leaks to be found and he told me to come back if it gets worse or the brake light comes on. HOWEVER, when I drove it home from the mechanic, the brakes felt the way they did when he put the rear rotors on. On the service record, it said he just looked for leaks and readjusted the rear rotors. This was about a month ago, or at 209,000 miles.
However, as before, the brakes slowly started to loose their "bite" again and sure enough, the master cylinder had lost fluid; albeit not as significant as before, but enough to require topping off. In addition, whenever I'm decelerating on the freeway (from let's say, 75-60 MPH), the wheel shakes as well. This wasn't really present before.
My patience is running thin with this car; we've easily spent half the value of the car on maintenance.
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My 98 Cirrus (V6 automatic) is not starting. The battery is working fine and it lights up everything...the wipers, headlight, the turn signals etc.... But when I turn on the ignition...nothing. I hear a mild thud followed by a brief hissing sound when I turn the key from the 1 position to the 2 position (referring to a 0-1-2-ignition key positions)...like "thuh...sssssss." It seems it comes from the underside of the car. Then when I turn from the second key position to start the engine, I get no response at all. I tried putting the gear in park / N...but no difference.
The weird thing is, approx 15 min before I attempted to start the car, I had to drive the car across the parking lot. It ran fine at that time. Could it be a fried starter motor?
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2007 F350... I noticed I have a small power steering leak where the master cylinder bolts onto the hydroboost. Is there a o-ring or seal between the two? or do I have to replace the hydroboost? Been looking online for a schematic but can't seem to find one.
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Well I've just noticed something quite annoying today... a very slight hissing sound coming from under the rear end of the car. A friend I drove to work this morning even said "what's that noise?".... It reminds me of the sound you'll hear when there is a pinhole in a joint weld, or a clamp is loose? My car only has 2800km on it!
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My truck is running fine but it sounds like there is an air leak on the drivers side of the truck. When it first happened I was passing a car and it sounded like a vacuum hose come loose. It made a loud hissing sound. Now I have come to the conclusion it must be associated with the turbo. I don't hear the hiss unless I get into the truck and the turbo starts making boost. The more boost is made the louder the hissing sound is.
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Immediately after my last Jiffy Lube oil change, my 2006 Toyota Matrix now has a faint hissing sound on acceleration. The sound seems to be coming from the engine compartment, kind of near where the glove compartment is. My first thought was that a leaf or piece of paper had gotten in with the cabin air filter when they checked it, but that's not it. The sound is there even with the fan off. There is no noticeable change in performance and no loss of air conditioning. Did they bump into a vacuum hose or something when they changed the oil? What could it be?
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I noticed a hissing sound coming out from under the car. It's more audible closer to the rear of the car as if air is escaping through a hole. Tires are good and not loosing air. When the fans turn on the hissing sound goes away momentarily and comes back. What could this be?
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My 99 Camry solara is hissing when I start the engine and doesn't go away until the car is shut off ---- then it hisses a few seconds more, then quits.The heating / cooling isn't on and I just had the oil changed yesterday at 227,000+ miles. What this could be?
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I have a Camry with 198K miles. When accelerating hard and hitting just over 4000 rpm the car will start surging. Letting off the gas and allowing the the automatic transmission to shift will stop the surging.
Will do this in any gear. The first few times the P1310 code came up but the last few times it did not throw any codes.
Also have the P0401 code which I have had for several years.
This is a very consistent problem which only occurs at just over 4000 rpms.
Just did some more testing and found that slowly revving the engine with car in Park will cause the same issue. When it gets to 4000 RPM it surges. Is there are rev limiter at 4000 rpm for some reason?
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I have a 98 Ranger 3.0 with a standard transmission. The truck has 240,500 miles so far. It runs just as good as the day I got it 11 years ago, doesn't use any oil and still gets 23 MPG. Last fall, it developed what sounds like an exhaust leak under the hood. It seems to be coming from the area of the EGR valve. The trouble is that I can't feel it or smell it. I have carefully felt the entire length of the tube running from the EGR to the exhaust manifold and cannot feel any leaks. There is no soot or any other evidence of an exhaust leak.
The noise isn't there for the first minute or so that the truck is running. I would think that if I had a cracked manifold or some other such leak, it would be worse when the engine is cold but this is not the case for me. It is most noticeable when pulling a hill as slow speeds in a higher gear. I have checked for codes (no CEL) and there are none. When I first heard it I figured that I would wait until it gets a little worse and I would be able to find it. Its been been over 8 months now it has remained the same.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Camry XLE 4 cylinder. I made a mess today, filled 13 galleons of Diesel in my gasoline Camry. It ran fine for 5 mins and then stopped.
I am planning to drain the fuel tank. I see one i hope fuel line in the hood which I plan to open using a wrench and drain the Fuel tank. Is that right?
Also do I need to do any other things immediately? I was thinking may be I will change fuel filter also.
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This is Toyota Camry 98 with V6 3.0 engine.After smelling burnt oil while driving (mostly during stops, to be more precise), I took the car to Toyota service mechanics. They found leaks in both valve cover gaskets, and a leak from behind the timing belt cover. The leaks from valve covers were dripping onto exhaust, causing the burning smell.
The total repair cost is quoted at around $2k ($700 for valve covers and $1300 for what is behind the timing belt assembly).
Is it worth doing ? My worry is that, since 3 separate seals are failing, it is likely that other seals will start failing soon.Should the whole engine be rebuilt instead ?
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My 1998 Toyota Camry with about 157k creaks esp around turns and even more with adult rear seat passengers (not my in-laws my husband's). When my dealership did a really expensive routine service on my car said the front links and bushings needed to be replaced, but after the amount they charged me I had no money left. Would fixing these fix my creaking? If not should I do replace them anyways?
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My son's 1998 shook and cut off at a red light today. I am taking it to be fixed and do not want to be taken for a ride financially. What it could be, so I can show up at the repair shop professing some knowledge?
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