Toyota - Camry :: 1996 - All Four Brakes Keep Locking Up
May 5, 2012
I have a 1996 Toyota Camry, I was having a noise from right rear and every now and then the car would start slowing down like I was braking. I replaced all four calipers, rotors and the pads, then bled the whole system. The noise went away, but the car still seems to engage the brakes, but only after a few minutes of driving, but then it goes away.
I thought it was a single brake line, but after not driving it for a week, yesterday I was driving it and after about 20 minutes it started again, when I pulled over all for wheels were smoking, after allowing it to sit for a few minutes, I was able to drive home 30 miles without it happening again. Would this happen with just one line bad, as someone suggested, or is this an issue with the master cylinder, bad brake fuild or something else?
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My husband noticed that our 2001 Camry was driving strange. He thought it was a problem with the brakes locking up. When I drove it, I felt like the front of the car was a little wiggly and thought we might need an alignment. When we took it in, they said that the brakes are okay, but that the front struts are "soft." They said that the front struts need to be replaced, which includes an alignment, and we should replace the rear struts at the same time. They said we should get new tires at the same time.
I've been trying to research it some, and we don't have a lot of the problems associated with bad struts. We haven't noticed any bouncing or anything like that. I think they are honest mechanics, but my husband doesn't trust them. We don't have enough money to get all that work done right now, so my question is, can we wait until we notice bouncing or the tires get worse to have the work done? (We would be trying to save up the money in the meantime.) Or, can we just take care of the front struts and wait on the tires and rear struts? Should we just get a second opinion? (The car does have 145,000 miles on it, and I've never had the struts replaced. I bought it with about 65,000 miles on it.)
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Replaced all components of front right braking system. Calipers rotor pads and hoses. Still, every other day or so the front right brakes gradually start locking up within minutes of driving.
I just bought car. I am stuck with this problem now. Only thing left i'm told is replacement of abs module.
Can you just bypass a faulty abs module instead of replacement?
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I am the owner of a 1996 Toyota 4runner. Recently, when I bring the vehicle to a complete stop, the entire SUV shudders, almost lunges, forward. At times it feels like the brakes are trying to re-engage. Could really use some pointers on this issue.
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Four or five years ago, our 2001 Toyota Camry (and my wife and I) had the misfortune of being in a T-bone accident when someone unexpectedly pulled a left turn in front of us and gave us no time to stop. We had the car front-end repaired at a collision repair center, and we were good to go, I thought. As I drove away, I noticed the newly replaced seat belts seemed to "lock" in place at times. They did lock at a sudden stop, as expected, but when entering the car and attempting to put on the seat belts, they would sometimes lock and release, causing me a repeated tug-of-war as I attempted to get enough slack to fasten the belt. This occurred on both the driver and passenger front belts.
Needless to say, I returned the car to the shop, and they cheerfully replaced the belts a second time. When I picked up the car, I first tested the belts, which seemed to perform flawlessly, so I drove home. My joy was short-lived, however, because on the way home, the locking problem returned. I returned to the collision repair shop yet again, and they replaced the belts a third time. The shop foreman personally tested the belts to make sure they worked, and he watched as I did the same. However, yet again, on the way home, the belts would lock unexpectedly.
Through much experimentation, I finally realized that if the car was facing any degree of a downward angle, I could pull the belts very easily and smoothly, yet they locked if I jerked the belts hard. This was as expected. If the car was level or facing an upward angle, however, pulling smoothly on the belt would result in them locking. This seemed very odd to me, and I mentioned it to the collision foreman. He immediately called Toyota to ask about it, and they had never heard of such a symptom.
So, for the past five years, I have been enduring the craziness of getting in my car and doing a repeated pull "negotiation" with the seat belt. I have also noticed that when I begin driving forward, if I will apply the brakes gently, both myself and any passenger can then easily pull the belts and fasten them while the gradual braking is occurring. It doesn't seem to be a safety issue because they do lock on a sudden hard stop, but it is counter-intuitive to me that a gradual braking allows the belts to move freely. Is it possible they could have installed the belts upside down or backwards, or something?
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Every now and then (1-2 times a week) it stalls when I come to a stop. If I catch it before it stalls and rev it over 4K then it is fine. If not, I just need to restart the car. What is causing this sporadic problem?
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this light comes on intermittently and does not go off unless engine is turned off, and then it goes out.
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I have a '96 Camry and the gas tank has been leaking. I tried fixing it with putty, which seemed to have worked until the weather became milder again and gasoline started dripping again. Does this mean I should be okay through the winter and reconsider my options only when spring comes around again?
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I have a 96 toyota camry that won't start. when i turn the key, the starter clicks but doesn't turn. I replaced the starter and it works fine (as does the one i took out). the battery was obviously checked and is charged. When I hook up the starter to the leads and its not in the engine it doesn't turn (in other words, its not a locked engine). I replaced one of the fuses in the starting relay and it didn't make a difference. So the problem is between the battery and the starter - the starter isn't getting enough power (if i take it to an autoparts store it works when hooked up to their system but doesn't work (but makes a click) when hooked up to the car.
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I bought a 1996 Toyota Camry this summer. While I was away, my parents would start it every once in a while, and the last time they did the lights would not stop flashing. The hazard lights, glove box, clock are all flashing. I have the battery disconnected until I can figure it out.
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Ive had my Camry since around September of last year. It had between 100-110k miles at the time of purchase.
In the last 3 months, Ive started to notice that sometimes when I am on the road & switch on the cruise control, the setting appears to have trouble engaging. On some occasions the cruise control does not even switch on at all when I hit the "set" button, while at other times I can feel the setting turn on and off intermittently, while I feel the engine respond accordingly with more or less gas with each time it goes on and off.I can also see the cruise control light on my dashboard begin to flash on and off each time this happens.
This does not happen every time I drive, but I must say Ive never seen anything like this before in any other car Ive ever had, and I find whats happening here to be both very strange as well as very annoying.
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I've got a 96 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, that appears to be losing coolant. I do not see any apparent leaks. I've checked compression and all cylinders are 170lbs. Within the past year I've replaced the radiator and hoses, timing belt, water pump, etc. Within the past month I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap. I do see it bubbling in the overflow tank. Also you see vapor with the radiator cap off. I feel sure its probably a head gasket ..
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When I go to start my car in the morning the first 5-6 times I turn it over, doesn't start, than it starts than dies out about 3 times than it will keep a idle, but if I press the gas pedal when it starts to idle it always dies out but if I let it warm up when it starts to idle it doesn't die out? If I drive it and shut it off as long as the engine is warm it starts right up..
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I have a 1996 Toyota camry and a 2005 chev classic. Both have 125,000 miles both need tires. The chef has had nothing serious done to it. I have replaced the master cylinder, radiator, timing belt, and water pump on the Toyota. I must sell one of them, but which one to sell?
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I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems i was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly.
Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles? Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If i let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on.
It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. the wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
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My old 1996 Camry with 2200 cc 4 cylinder engine, frequently keeps losing power to the spark plugs. I have changed the fuel filter and the ignition coil. That did not work. I also noticed that the car was starting when I unplug and replug the primary wire plug to the ignition coil. So I have replaced the primary power plug with a six inch pigtail and a used plug purchased from a salvage yard. This is not working either. The Toyota dealer near my house want to replace the igniter and the Engine Control Module just to be sure that these are not the sources of problem. The dealer did not test these parts. So I refused to replace the parts without a proper test. I would like to test these parts. Is there a test available for the igniter and ECM that could be performed. I have access to a lot of tools. I need a schematic and/or test to test these components.
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1996 Toyota camry le 4 cylinders has code po401 does it damage engine what will it do. Insufficient exhaust flow...
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry it has a small leak-from the "Rear Main Seal" Very expensive to repair $800 I cant afford that at this time. My question is: can this product be tried as as temporary fix or if it works? Would it damage other car parts? " Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak and Conditioner.
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Can swap a 98 Toyota Camry auto tranny to a 96 Camry with the same size engine? Sometimes the axles are different (splines) so if the axles are changed also then the tranny will work. But the axles and tranny all have to be switched?Driving down the road at about 65 mph there was a clunk, a binding like brake stuck thing going on, and then the tranny would not move the car. It seems as though the chain, if there is a chain in the tranny, broke. Someone told me it is the gears (planetary) on the right hand side of the transmission that drives the axle. No one including me has gone under it to look. But I do have access to that 98 tranny and axles.
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A few hours ago my friend was getting off the interstate driving a 99' Toyota Camry. She went to use the brakes and they had no effect. They did not go all the way to the floor and she says there was a lack of pressure/resistance , then a grabbing feeling before the floor but no effect and no sounds. She had to use the emergency brake. It was 14 degrees last night and above 32 today. The brakes worked from the house to the interstate, then did not.It has been towed and so far the mechanics say they can't find anything wrong.
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