Toyota - Camry :: 1995 - Washed Engine Now Car Stalls / Sputters When Warm
Oct 5, 2013
1995 Camry 2.2 4cyl 165,000 miles FED (not CA).
Two days ago while doing a routine oil change I noticed my kids engine compartment was real dirty as we had alot of flooding from rain a few weeks ago. I sprayed the engine with a water hose w/nozzle to clean it. At the time I didn't know any better. The car was driven without any issue briefly that day. The following morning the car was driven a distance of 25 miles without incident.
After resting 30 minutes the car was started and began to idle rough and stalled repeatedly. When I showed up to inspect the issue it had been sitting about an hour. I went for a test drive and the car ran good. About 20 minutes later iI get another call saying the car is doing it again. It was sputtering/ hesitating when I attempted to accelerate it began to stall unless I limped it along staying off the gas.
Once I got it home I started doing some research and discovered that my spraying water in the engine compartment was probably what caused the issues I was experiencing. So I began to go through the motions trying to repair. I also noticed the car ran good when cold but at operating temp it would run rough. The check engine light has not come on.
I replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, etc... sensor, and air filter, I cleaned the throttle body port and IAC valve port with sea foam cleaner. I cleaned and tested the EGR valve & ports. Nothing has improved from my efforts.
I must of screwed something up good, since its been 2 days, it should be dry by now. I also been thinking that maybe some water got to the injectors. NOt sure if a cause, but the oil was changed right before I sprayed engine.
My course of action as of right now is.
1.Check and clean all electrical connectors
2.Replace distributor with a re-manufactured one
3.Replace upstream o2 sensor
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My f150 looses power and sputters when it warms up. Let it cool off and it runs great until it warms up again. Check engine light comes on every now and then but not every time.
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I have a 1995 Toyota Camry, 4 Cylinder that has just started stalling when I step on the gas after a complete stop. After that, the car will not start for over an hour and will last only a few miles after that. this has happened 3 times so far. I have changed out the fuel pump but that did not do the trick.
I also noticed that when it was cold this past winter and I was on the highway the temperature would decrease a lot. But regular city driving the temperature seemed fine. Well now that it's warm again, the car shuts off at just above the halfway mark. So this morning I changed out the Thermostat and now it's running hotter than ever, the heat does not work at all, and the car will not start. (it started up fine after the thermostat install but the engine temp was high and heat was not blowing warm) I'm hoping it's not a bigger issue.
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It always (so far) starts right back up. So far it has not tripped a code or caused any service lights to stay on. I've cleaned the battery posts and don't know what else to do.
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Car: 1995 Corolla 1.8L automatic
Symptom: misfires around 3000-3500 RPM only when warm.
I have replaced the following:
-Spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
-Ignition coil
-Fuel filter
-Poured some quality fuel system cleaner into the gas tank
The car stutters when accelerating in any gear hard enough to reach the engine speed that the misfire occurs at. It doesn't backfire, it just misses... I am confused since so many of the misfire issues I know about that are RPM specific are spark-related.
I have considered cleaning the injectors, but don't want to go through the hassle to remove and have them cleaned unless I really have to. Checking if hunch on the injectors is correct? Something else?
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Have a problem with my Santa Fe. 2004 2.4l.
My wife drove the car when the problem first appeared. She had been driving for 30 min, roughly 30km, and the car looses power and stops. Won't start when she tries. It cranks but won't fire up. When she waits for a minute it fires up but stalls.
We took it to a workshop. No code. They changed the fuel filter, which hadn't been changed for a long time.
They took it for a drive and it worked fine. I picked it up and it was working. Then it died when I exited the highway. It had lost some power during a second while still on the highway. I had driven it for roughly 30km and the engine was hot. Again, was able to start it it up for a couple of seconds if I let it cool for a couple of minutes. Got a lift home and returned in the evening and it started on the first try.
Took it to work the next morning. Wouldn't start in the afternoon when it had been standing in the sun and was gazing hot. Opened the fuel cap to release any vacuum. No change. Again started when I returned this morning and it wasn't very hot.
The engine warning lamp hasn't light up. Will try to see if there is a fault code tomorrow. Will try to measure the fuel pressure eventually.
The valve position sensor and timing belt was changed a year ago.
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Every now and then (1-2 times a week) it stalls when I come to a stop. If I catch it before it stalls and rev it over 4K then it is fine. If not, I just need to restart the car. What is causing this sporadic problem?
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry EL that has been running fine - up until about 3 weeks ago. It has developed a problem of stalling when idling, sometimes, not always. My mechanic has replaced the vacuum hose to the idle air control after finding it was cracked. It kept on stalling after that. Then he replaced the exhaust gas recycling valve assembly, but it still will stall at times. I have noticed that sometimes the engine will rev way up then way down while I'm sitting at a stop light. This morning it stalled while I backed out of a parking spot. Only 95K miles on this car, and I would like to keep it going if possible.
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My camry with 87,00 miles stalls when I take my foot off the break at stoplights. Three certified Toyota mechanics say they can't fix it until it happens again. No one is interested in checking for clogged sensors.
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1995 toyota camry 4 cylinder engine - My car was working fine yesterday, but today when I inserted my key; the key won't turn at all. I have try changing the shift control to neutral and jerk the steeling wheel. I have also went and copy my key. When I inserted the new key, it finally turn all the way, but then it got stuck in the ignition. After a few hour I got the new out of the ignition and try again. This time the new key can't turn all the way. My uncle believe that the key ignition sensory is the problem.
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Every once in a while I'll go to start my car and it will stall right away. I'll try again and it will continue to stall. If I give it gas as soon as it starts I can keep it running. Yesterday it did this when I left from work. I held the rpm's at about 1500 and after about 10 seconds the rpm's jump about 200 or 300 and it idled. Sometimes it even idles really low. About 500 rpm. I've done plugs and wires (oem), air filter, PVC, ecu coolant temp sensor, fuel cleaners every 3 or 4 months. This has happened about 6 times in the passed 4 months. Runs great otherwise b
1998 Toyota Camry, 2.2l, Automatic, 125,000 miles
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I have a 1995 Toyota Camry. I let my niece use it while on xmas break when I went to go pick it up it made a clunking screeching sound as i tried to back it out of the parking lot. I found it difficult to turn the wheel as well. I had to get it home so I drove from Orlando to St Augustine. Weird thing is that once on the highway going 70mph i didn't hear the sound anymore. I thought it was ok. I stopped in Daytona for gas and as i pulled away that sound began again. This lasted until i got to accelerated to about 50mph this time. I heard it again going through my neighborhood which is 25mph. It was very difficult to turn the wheel. My husband checked the power steering fluid which it was empty.
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I have a 1995 Camry with the 4cyl 5sfe engine and a manual transmission with about 120K miles. It's been very reliable overall, but lately it's been exhibiting some strange intermittent behavior. When driving at a steady speed between 2-3K rpms, it'll sometimes experience a momentary power loss. There's no stalling, but it's as if I've hit a stiff headwind or the brakes have been applied and then release. It doesn't seem to happen when accelerating, but as mentioned above, it's most noticeable when maintaining a steady speed. Sometimes it'll be very quick like it's bucking and other times it'll last a full second or two. It'll do it in all gears at both relatively low speeds and highway speeds, so there's no pattern there. There is no check engine light when this happens, but I have not yet attempted to check codes just in case it might be storing any. It'll happen when the engine is both cold and at normal operating temperature. I've also tried to observe whether or not the tachometer drops when it bumps, but haven't really been able to discern that due to the usual momentary nature of the power loss.
The coil on this car is integrated into the distributor and I read somewhere that it's common for these to start to go as these Camrys age and accumulate a lot of miles. I also read that it's common for these cars to hesitate due to internally leaking fuel pulsation dampeners. The AC compressor makes a little noise, and sometimes it almost feels like what you would expect it to feel when the compressor kicks on, although the jolt or 1-2 second sustained power loss, depending on what occurs, feels stronger than that. Plus it'll do it with the AC off, so that doesn't seem to be a possibility. Other than this problem, the car has no issues whatsoever. It's quiet, uses very little oil, idles perfectly and maintains optimal operating temperature. The miles are about 75% highway since I've been using it mostly as an airport commuter car. Most essential maintenance items, such as the clutch, timing belt, water pump, oil seals, PCV valve, thermostat, radiator, motor mounts, etc. have been replaced within the last 15K miles, and most are Toyota OEM parts. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor have all been replaced within the last 10K miles, again with Denso plugs and wires, but aftermarket cap and rotor. I did feel up under the distributor and got some fresh oil on my fingers, so the o-ring might be leaking a bit. However, I don't know yet if there is any internal leakage inside the distributor itself.
I'm going to tear into it a bit, but I wanted to see which direction to look first. Would you suspect a spark issue (again, no CEL illuminates), or something more like a fuel delivery issue? I also wondered if it might be something like the TPS or perhaps a cam or crank position sensor on the way out.
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