Toyota - Camry :: 1994 Will Not Restart When Turn Off Car After Driving For Short Distances
Oct 9, 2013
When going short distances, half mile to two miles, and I turn off the car it will not REstart. Dash lights come on but engine does not make a sound. No clicking, no engine trying to turn over, nothing. After the car sits for awhile and cools off it starts up with no hesitation at all. If on the road for several minutes the car does not have this problem no matter how far or how many times I turn it off and on. The battery checks out ok. Someone said it could be a ground wire loose. What do you think. Is this something I could do myself?
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My 2000 Toyota Camry V6 died while driving the other day. At the shop they were able to start it but said it was misfiring but it didn't cut off when they were driving it. They recommended a tune-up to replace spark plugs and "wires" but admitted they weren't sure what the problem was. I haven't had a tune-up in awhile, actually not sure when the last time I had one was (if ever!). Would this cause it to die while driving?
Should I invest in a tune-up even if it doesn't fix the problem?The battery is about 3 months old. The master and slave cylinder were recently replaced (about 6 months ago), timing belt and water pump and hoses were replaced a couple of years ago.I have high miles, about 260,000 and love this car and have needed very little work and has been a very reliable car. Would love to continue driving it!!
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I have a 1994 Toyota Camry. Took it to a shop to repair an oil leak. They had to dismount the transmission to get to the gasket. I got the car back and the transmission was messed up. Took it to a transmission shop and they told me that the transmission "cable" wasn't positioned correctly by whoever had done the work and they could fix it. They told me it was safe to drive it until my appointment. The engine was revving too high before changing gears and while driving home, I heard a loud rattling noise in the engine and my car stopped in the middle of the road. I'm told that a rod has broken inside the engine. My question is: can this in any way be related to the transmission cable not having been set/positioned correctly?
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My 2000 Toyota Corolla, automatic, loses power when I decelerate after driving for a short distance when I am entering the freeway and trying to accelerate on the ramp and then into traffic. The car never dies or turns off, but loses power and "coasts"; as I coast along and try to get out of the traffic, I press the accelerator pedal almost to the floor and within 5-10 seconds the car will roar to life and accelerate like it's getting all the power it needs. That's usually the end of it for that day...however, there is often some hesitation as I continue driving. This doesn't happen all the time, but almost always when it's been outside all day and the temperature has been at freezing or below...usually when my car has sat all day while I'm at work. My mechanic hasn't had time to look at it yet but has suggested perhaps a bad switch of some kind or maybe a dirty switch. Also, this may be unrelated, but often before this happens the brake light will sometimes come on and stay on...even though the brake isn't on, nor has it been on while parked. This never has happened in the mornings after my car has been in the garage all night.
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Just replaced the starter and battery on my old but loved 4Runner. I drove it for an hour and a half last week and couldn't restart it. Just nothing - one click I think. A friend tapped on the starter and it started...but I'm not sure whether the car just cooled down at that point. Took it to the garage and they said they couldn't find anything wrong (no surprise, right?) Now I'm afraid to take longer trips.
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I have a 2007 Camry that starts and runs fine, but after driving a short distance it dies. After sitting for some time, the car starts back up and runs fine again.
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My 1990 Toyota Corolla which I hate to retire has only 64,000 miles on it. Starts and runs but while I am driving the dash lights up and the engine shuts off and won't restart. He thinks it is the NEC (?) switch but he said he is not really sure. Spending all that money and then finding out it is not fixed would not be worth it. It also is dangerous what if I am on the expressway?
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I have a 2002 Buick Rendezvous and after driving the vehicle and turning it off for a short period of time it will not start. It will continue to "crank" or "turn over" but cannot get it to start unless I wait for around 20-30 minutes at which time it will start like it never had a problem. Also now when I am driving and I hit the brakes to come to a stop the Anti-Lock Brake Light comes on and the AWD Disable Light comes on? I just had the brakes done and thought it could possibly be a problem with the way they were done and took it back to have the brakes checked out again but found nothing wrong....
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This just started. Twice so far. The dashboard brake light, ABS light and the Traction control light pop on while driving. Pull over, shut the engine off, restart and everything is OK again.
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My Regency will randomly not start. No turn-over, interior lights nice and bright, all lights on dashboard come up. No security light shows up on dashboard thus does not appear to be security system.
Seems to occur more often when car is driven a short distance. Twice I have made short drives come back several hours later car does not start. I wait 7-10 minutes then try again and car starts right up.
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I have a 1994 Toyota truck that overheats and dies after 2-3 hours of driving. Once it cools, it starts back up until it gets hot again. It has been taken to many different professionals and no one can find anything wrong with this truck. One shop changed the fuel filter and checked the catalytic converter. Another checked the radiator. One said it could be the fuel pump, but found nothing wrong. The problem still exists! The truck is used for work (delivering mail in rural areas) so there is a lot of stop and go.
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We had to jump start the truck and my buddy hooked up jumper cables wrong on his truck so I'm hoping the computer isn't fried. I turn the key and the only things that work are the door dinger and the dome light. Nothing on the gauge cluster and no radio. Dead silent when I turn the key to crank.
1994 toyota pickup 22re....
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I get a call from my mother saying their 1994 Toyota Camry 2.2L car won't start. I went over there today and the first thing I check was the spark. I hooked my spark tester and had my dad crank the engine over. No spark. So I removed the distributor cap and tested the resistance on the primary and secondary sides of the coil. The secondary side was low. So I went and got a new coil, installed it and it still wouldn't start. I checked the spark again and it had spark, but still wouldn't start. I then proceeded to check the fuel pressure. I hooked up my pressure tester to fuel filter, with the included adapter, and had my dad turn the ignition switch to ON position. No pressure. Then I had him try and start the engine, the pressure jumped up to 41 PSI. I then sprayed a little gas into the throttle and the engine would try to start. I'm stuck.
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Car has been working fine but yesterday the transmission just wouldn't engage. The engine was running fine. I've just been using it as my around town car so probably put about 5K miles on it a year at this point. It has small dent in the bumper and the interior is fine but old.
I'm tempted to replace the transmission because it is an easy (albeit expensive) solution, and less work (and money) than looking for another used car with an unknown history. But does it make any sense? I've replaced the exhaust, tires and battery recently. When might the engine start giving me trouble?
1994 Camry Wagon, 215k miles,
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In Jan my 94 Toyota Camry started having issues with starting- for instance, I would run an errand for 10 minutes get back in the car and it wouldn't start. However, this tended to be random. When this problem happened more often I took it in and they said I needed a new starter so I got one (Feb) and didn't have any issues for a month, but then began to have the same issue on and off again. I took my car back in for the second time and they said it must have been a bad starter. They gave me ANOTHER new starter (Apr) and my issues continued soon after. I took it back in and they didn't have an answer for me other than the starter was good. Took it to another mechanic and he had the car for two days and could not find ANY ISSUE with the car. I let it brush over during the summer months because I never had this issue (June-Aug) and now that it's gotten cold again I'm having this problem.
Few things to note: -Anytime I have this issue I'll hit the starter with a hammer and it will ALWAYS start. This has been the case since January.-It ALWAYS starts in the morning and when I get back in my car after working all day. However, if I were to run errands in the morning or at night it would not start with the stop and go. -This only happens in the cold months -They tested the newest starter and they say there's nothing wrong with it.-Within the past two years I've had MANY things replaced on this car and any shops I've taken it to say it's a great car with no issues they can find.
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I have got the most aggravating electrical gremlin possible. For over a year now, the truck intermittently just dies. Mostly it happens about 2-3 mins after start (every couple weeks or so), then takes a couple of key offs, then back ons to restart. But it does restart and then runs fine for a time.... 2 weeks ago I was rollin' down the road and hit a pothole, and whammo, she died, and wouldn't restart. I thought, "great it was the intertia cut-off going bad." I had it towed to the shop where they did some diagnosis and told me it threw a PO231 code.
The tech then said he was doing the diagnostic manual directed test, and swapped out the fuel pump relay, and it started right up. New relay, out the door. A few days later on the way to work about 2 - 3 minutes after start, she dies again. I hang my head, say a curse word, and key it a couple times, and it starts back up and runs fine. Presently speaking she's back at the shop, but the owner, who's a straight up dude was loath to take her back, because it was running fine at the time.... I've got to figure this thing out before I drive it off a cliff.
Truck -- 2001 7700 XLT 5.4L 88K miles
Symptoms -- Random interval engine stops with short delay to restart, 1 hard bump engine stop with no restart. PO231 code (after the hard bump no restart). Didn't check it previously (wasn't aware there were "soft" codes).
Troubleshooting to date -- 1 new fuel pump, 1 new fuel pump relay.
Only things left are the inertia cut-off switch (which apparently don't go bad that often), and the wiring itself/connections to the different components....
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I have a 1994 4 cyl Toyota Camry LE. For the last couple of years, when I parked the car after driving it and removed the key from the ignition, the air conditioning would continue to operate normally and blow cold air through the vents, and all of the other electrics would all operate for about 5 seconds, then shut down normally. Again, this was after driving the car, engine off, with the key removed and the ignition switch in the proper "off" position. I didn't think much of it at the time.
Recently, the problem has advanced to something worse. Now, when I turn off and remove the key, all electrical components remain on indefinitely (ie radio, air conditioning, wipers work, etc... )
I can physically power down each of the individual components using it's respective switch, but there is still accessory power on the vehicle. Basically, with the key removed, the vehicle thinks it is in accessory mode. All the dash lights are illuminated, like right before you start the vehicle. The only way to completely remove all electrical from the vehicle is to physically disconnect the battery.
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I have a 94 Camry 2.2. When I am driving 45 MPH the transmissions acts like it is shifting into N or OD and then the RPMS fluctuate between idle and 1500 or so. Then when I it will shift hard because the car has decelerated. If I stay in the throttle during this it just jerks or lunges.
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My 94 Camry 4 cyl fuel gauge seems to be broke. It always shows empty. The "fuel warning" light doesn't come on however. The last time it worked, I had about 1/2 tank and filled it up. It took several minutes for the gauge to creep up to full. It worked for a few days and then when i started the car this evening, the gauge showed empty and tays on empty.
What is the most likely issue here? I've read that it could be the sending unit, bad wiring or the gauge itself. All other dashboard gauges are working fine.
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I've got a 1994 Camry V6 that I am swapping transmissions from automatic to manual. Before the swap, the engine ran fine and started first time every time. Now that I have everything back together, the car will take many times of 10 seconds or longer cranking to be able to start. Once it does start, it idles very high and within 15 seconds will die. If, during the time it is running, you touch the gas at all, the car instantly dies. I've got CEL's for CPS and TPS. I have replaced both sensors numerous times, checking with a voltmeter they are within spec as are the wires, I have replaced the ECU and wiring harness.
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I own a toyota camry le automatic that has the engine light on and dies while driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and he diagnosed the error codes p0500 and 720. we fixed the 720 by replacing the trans. speed shaft sensor and replaced the vehicle speed sensor with one we bought from ebay. The rpm will shoot up randomly whilst the check engine light is on. the speedometer works just fine now. car dies when it slows down or at a stop. the rpm goes far below 1000 and i smell gas then i hear it beginning to struggle just to stay on.
The dash lights dim and return to normal then dim again and repeat then it shuts off and the battery light along with oil light come on. turns on fine but when put in reverse or drive it shuts off. it cant go more than 3 minutes without it messing up. when the engine light isn't on it runs just fine but once it turns on i've got about three minutes to get back somewhere safe. also when it does want to die i have to give it gas for it to stay on. i feel a major lag also and the o/d light flashes along with the pwr light.
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