I have a 94 Camry 2.2. When I am driving 45 MPH the transmissions acts like it is shifting into N or OD and then the RPMS fluctuate between idle and 1500 or so. Then when I it will shift hard because the car has decelerated. If I stay in the throttle during this it just jerks or lunges.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Camry V6 XLE with a rebuilt transmission. Since the rebuild I have had an intermittent problem with the transmission not shifting into gear properly from park. When shifting from park into drive, sometimes the transmission will pause, leaving the vehicle in neutral, then slamming into drive.
The transmission was replaced in April of 09 with a leaking transmission seal. Since this time I have has this problem but have not been able to get it to be reproduced for Toyota to observe.
Purchased: February '08 (ish)- New
First Transmission Replacement- April '09- 35980 Miles
Transmission Repair- Internal Temp Sensor/leaking o-ring/Transmission Flush- 9/13/11- 101k miles
Car has been working fine but yesterday the transmission just wouldn't engage. The engine was running fine. I've just been using it as my around town car so probably put about 5K miles on it a year at this point. It has small dent in the bumper and the interior is fine but old.
I'm tempted to replace the transmission because it is an easy (albeit expensive) solution, and less work (and money) than looking for another used car with an unknown history. But does it make any sense? I've replaced the exhaust, tires and battery recently. When might the engine start giving me trouble?
1994 Camry Wagon, 215k miles,
Grand am is a 4cly 4speed trans. My daughter is off to school. She called and told me her speed odometer is not working. She also mentioned that it is not shifting properly if at all. Is the speed odometer operated by cable? Would the two be related to the transmission going bad?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2013 F-150 Lariat 5.0 L, 6 speed auto transmission crew cab truck with 44,000 miles on it. Recently I have experienced problems with the transmission not shifting properly. Three times when I have started out of my driveway, it has shifted into 2nd gear while I am going only 2-3 mph up my driveway which is about a 10-12 degree incline. It stays in 2nd gear even if I stop. When I pull out onto the highway, it shifted normally into the remaining gears. Then, the other night as I was returning home, while traveling up the road, it shifted into 5th gear and stayed there even when it needed to downshift. A wrench i-con appeared on my screen, my odometer showed dash lines instead of mileage and my seatbelt i-con appeared. When I got home, I shut the truck off and restarted it and everything was normal again. I have driven the truck a couple more times with no issues. The transmission shifts normally. Could a sensor be going bad ?
View 2 RepliesTook my car in for oil/filter change and in some odd circumstance, the young mechanic managed to drain 1 liter of transmission oil out of my car (which I didn't know at the time). After driving for 10 minutes (~5 km), I noticed my reverse gear wasn't shifting properly. After ~30 minutes of driving, my car was smoking from the exhaust pipe (turns out he had overfilled my engine oil too!!). Took the car back in to complain the mechanic supervisor claims my transmission is still fine and all I need to do is refill the lost fluid. Another independent mechanic later tells me my transmission line is likely fried if I had experienced what I did, and those guys should be responsible to replace everything. Since fluids have been topped up, I have no proof of who is right. So my question is, if I only drove for maximum 50 km after my transmission fluid was drained and engine oil overfilled, would that be enough to cause serious damage to the car?
View 10 RepliesThe car on cruise control sometimes randomly looses speed & downshifts to 3 and raise rpms quickly to gain the set cruise control speed again."
Vehicle Background: bought it from the original owner, the fuel gauge showed empty on a full tank of gas and I passed on the car, owner called a week later and said they installed a used PCM and everything now works, and it did, I bought it since it was a really clean car.
After driving on highway with cruise control set it would randomly loose power and downshift and then regain speed from being set on cruise control, mostly uphills and downhills but also straights sometimes and it would loose 7-8 mphs not the 1-3 mph loss that is typical of some other cars on cruise.
Engine has been rebuilt to success, other then this issue, the car drives like a dream and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Plenty of power compared to before the rebuild as well.
I learned from a DIY oil consumption fix on a 98 corolla that removing throttle body and cleaning it and the IACV, makes the vehicle idle within stock spec, really quiet and also improves the throttle response, I attempt this on the GT-S.
So I open up the airbox to make room to clean my throttle body and the 2 nuts were fairly loose, but the 2 bottom bolts were completely out that attach the throttle body to the intake manifold and only holding their place because of the tight fit in that area from all the hoses. This wasn't even touched during the engine rebuild.
I remove everything, looks dirty as [censored] and the intake has some oil in it, which I use brake parts cleaner to dry and use air to blow off and only got to remove maybe 30% of it from the inside of the intake. I then also remove the IACV to find it REALLY dirty like all the ones I had open so far and I go to town and cleaner both that and throttle body and replace both the gaskets as well.
Upon completion the vehicle's throttle response becomes AMAZING compared to before and it seem like a proper GT-S rather then a slow car which before had a slower acceleration then my 01 GT. I drive the same route home of 25 miles, the car NEVER once down shifts and has plenty of power and I'm HAPPY!
Well guess what, the issue is back now, I open the air box and both the nuts and the bolts seems firmly tight. I loosen everything up to still see the oil in the intake(though I only got to remove/dry30% the first time), brand new OEM PCV valve in the car 5k ago and I followed the PCV Valve pipe to the intake and it was dry from the inside as well.
when the vehicle is driven around and it returns to idle, it seems to hesitate(I think not 100% since it could be the engine just slowing down didn't do it before the throttle body cleaning though) for less then a second when going back to idle speed, it idles perfectly at around 750 rpms though. Questions:
1. What could be causing the oil in the intake? is it just the old oil what has been in the intake since before I bought it? The car doesn't burn any oil in the last 5k since the engine rebuild.
2. Could it be the PCM/VCM is causing the random power loss with cruise control on? which was a problem that was so called fixed using used parts but all the other automatic functions work perfectly.
3. Could it be the Cruise Control it self, apparently I can snag one from a local pick n pull for like 8 bucks (I think, listed on website)
4. Could it be this issue listed in this link? [URL] ..... , bad throttle position sensor? could it be that I cleaned the idle air control valve too roughly to get that slight hesitation when returning to idle?
5. Could it be the Throttle body itself in the GT-S? Did I clean it too aggressively, and ruined the round opening, which is causing the random loss of power? I had my cuzin do the throttle body removal and cleaning DIY step by step on our 99 corolla and he used a gasket remover (attached to a power tool) to clean up the dirt/oil build up inside the round opening and it started to give him jerks driving at highway speeds, constantly...We used the 98 corolla's gently cleaned throttle body in the 99 corolla and immediately issue solved. The proper working throttle body in the 98 corolla is a used replacement one as I aggressively cleaned the round opening in the original one and had hesitation issues as well.
In my 2011 F-250, 6.7, auto....it seems that at certain times went the tranny shifts from 2nd to 3rd and I pause with acceleration, for some reason the tranny seems to go into a slip mode and then slams into 3rd. Now I read about 8 months ago that there was a computer upgrade via Ford. Which they did when I was having some work done on the truck at the dealership.
View 14 RepliesI recently purchased a used 2001 E350 with a 7.3L and the transmission is not shifting properly. It will go into Reverse no problem, put it in "D" and it starts in high gear and will not shift out. If I manually shift from 1 to 2 to "D" it works fine and will even go into OD. It will not down shift on its own either. What should I do to fix this issue?
View 2 RepliesMy 94 Toyota Corolla has about 190,000 miles on it and lately it has had a hard time shifting between 20-30mph. It finally does reach it and does not have trouble shifting at any other speeds. This only happens in the heat of the afternoon (Never have this problem in the morning). Also, my O/D light has been flashing when this happens, or at least around the time it happens. Could these two problems be linked? I took it to my mechanic in the morning and he checked the transmission fluid and it seemed fine, he also had no problems driving around when he tested the car. He said my transmission is going and that I should make "long term" plans. Is there any hope?
View 1 RepliesMy Step Brother has a 1994 Chevy S-10 Blazer with a 4.3L V6 Automatic and the Transmission isn't Shifting Right what could be the Problem?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1994 Toyota Surf Hilux. Lately the manuel gear has quit shifting while the car is on. I can correct it by shutting the car off and then it shifts perfectly. This started out as an intermittent problem but is getting increasingly worse. It happens every day now. Trust me, this is very dangerous not to be able to shift while in African traffic. I don't want to take it to a mechanic here because they aren't usually trustworthy - they will fix all kinds of problems that I don't have and I can't afford to have my car tied up for weeks with no results. I have a friend who might be able to fix it if we can ascertain the problem but it is pretty confusing as to what the problem might be. The clutch was replaced a year ago.
View 9 RepliesMy 94 F150 has been actingup lately with the 4r70 transmission not shifting into 3rd gear or above. I replaced the MLPS sensor and re pinned the plug as per the instructions with the switch.The old sensor had the plug on the side, same type of plug, but wires indifferent spots. Truck wouldn't start like that, so repinned to match the instructions. I couldn't get the neutral mark to 100% line up as there is not enough adjustment, but it is very close.
The old plug had
32-298-140-33
57-199-359-463
I switched it to
57-359-199-463
33-140-298-32
Then tried
463-359-199-57
33-140-298-32
Truck still won't shift to 3rd, overdrive off button doesn't light up and itwon't start in neutral. I tested the ground at the connector and it lights up atest light connected to the pos bat cable with no issues.
Back up lights won't work, but flicker as going from R to N, so I suspect that is due to the fact I couldn't get the marks to line up 100%, but i'm not worried about that now.
My 1994 Ranger keeps shifting in and out of overdrive. It will go into OD easily, but it keeps downshifting, then shifting back up constantly. If I go up hill, if will downshift and stay in drive, but on a flat stretch, it wont stay in OD. It works fine when its cold, but after it warms up, then the shift problem begins. What do I do?
View 2 RepliesI have 94 SE camry with the 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE engine and has individual coil packs. I'm getting a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction. I have checked it out per the procedures EG2.pdf. I'm down to step 8 and the voltages are little different between the 6 points. started checking out the ground at the ECM per IN36 instructions. it appears that from pin #27 & 28 are not grounded to the ECU case.
View 5 RepliesI have a 94 E350 with a 7.3 diesel. I took it to the Ford dealership to have a new fuel filter and oil change when I got it back the OD light was flashing and transmission shifting hard. They tell me they cannot find a problem could they have possibly knock a wire off of something to make this happen...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
View 10 RepliesI get a call from my mother saying their 1994 Toyota Camry 2.2L car won't start. I went over there today and the first thing I check was the spark. I hooked my spark tester and had my dad crank the engine over. No spark. So I removed the distributor cap and tested the resistance on the primary and secondary sides of the coil. The secondary side was low. So I went and got a new coil, installed it and it still wouldn't start. I checked the spark again and it had spark, but still wouldn't start. I then proceeded to check the fuel pressure. I hooked up my pressure tester to fuel filter, with the included adapter, and had my dad turn the ignition switch to ON position. No pressure. Then I had him try and start the engine, the pressure jumped up to 41 PSI. I then sprayed a little gas into the throttle and the engine would try to start. I'm stuck.
View 5 RepliesIn Jan my 94 Toyota Camry started having issues with starting- for instance, I would run an errand for 10 minutes get back in the car and it wouldn't start. However, this tended to be random. When this problem happened more often I took it in and they said I needed a new starter so I got one (Feb) and didn't have any issues for a month, but then began to have the same issue on and off again. I took my car back in for the second time and they said it must have been a bad starter. They gave me ANOTHER new starter (Apr) and my issues continued soon after. I took it back in and they didn't have an answer for me other than the starter was good. Took it to another mechanic and he had the car for two days and could not find ANY ISSUE with the car. I let it brush over during the summer months because I never had this issue (June-Aug) and now that it's gotten cold again I'm having this problem.
Few things to note: -Anytime I have this issue I'll hit the starter with a hammer and it will ALWAYS start. This has been the case since January.-It ALWAYS starts in the morning and when I get back in my car after working all day. However, if I were to run errands in the morning or at night it would not start with the stop and go. -This only happens in the cold months -They tested the newest starter and they say there's nothing wrong with it.-Within the past two years I've had MANY things replaced on this car and any shops I've taken it to say it's a great car with no issues they can find.
I have a 1994 4 cyl Toyota Camry LE. For the last couple of years, when I parked the car after driving it and removed the key from the ignition, the air conditioning would continue to operate normally and blow cold air through the vents, and all of the other electrics would all operate for about 5 seconds, then shut down normally. Again, this was after driving the car, engine off, with the key removed and the ignition switch in the proper "off" position. I didn't think much of it at the time.
Recently, the problem has advanced to something worse. Now, when I turn off and remove the key, all electrical components remain on indefinitely (ie radio, air conditioning, wipers work, etc... )
I can physically power down each of the individual components using it's respective switch, but there is still accessory power on the vehicle. Basically, with the key removed, the vehicle thinks it is in accessory mode. All the dash lights are illuminated, like right before you start the vehicle. The only way to completely remove all electrical from the vehicle is to physically disconnect the battery.