Toyota - Camry :: 1991 - Transmission Leak / Bumps Into Gear On Hard Acceleration
May 29, 2011
I have a '91 Camry that's my daily 50 mile round trip commute car. It runs well and still has lots of pep at 156,000. There are oil and tranny leaks (tranny leaks around the pan seal) but I check the levels and keep everything topped off. Tranny fluid and filter were changed about 20K miles ago. I am the original owner. Shifting is OK unless I accelerate hard, then it "bumps" into gear. On hard acceleration it is a pretty good bump but if I back off the gas it shifts much better. There are no other symptoms, at lower speeds it shifts fine unless the A/C is on, then I get bumps above the 1-2 shift. What the problem is?
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I have a 2009 camry 4 cyl with 104k miles. I recently change my trans fluid by doing drain and refill. I used the toyota WS fluid which they recommend changing every 100k miles. After driving the car, I noticed that when coming to a stop, I can feel a hard thug when going into 1st gear. I did checked my fluid level and is on the hot mark.
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Just curious if there are any other 2010 owners with any difficulty shifting gears in their manual transmission camrys? I noticed during my test drive that I grinded my way into 2nd once... I thought it might have just been my nervousness with a new clutch at the time. However, I've since put 300 miles on the car and I still have trouble putting it into second gear on a daily basis. Sometimes it grinds a bit, and sometimes it catches or a half second before it pops in. All the gears OTHER than 2nd gear go in like butter as you would expect with a new transmission. I'm not new to a clutch... this is at least my 4th car with a stick, so I don't think I'm doing anything out of the ordinary when shifting.
It reminds me of some older (100,000+ mile Nissan) cars I've had in the past... the syncromesh was wearing out and it would grind going into second or third, so I put in some RedLine MTL and got a little more life out of the transmission... but there shouldn't be a need for that kind of thing on a car with less than 1000 miles on it?!
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I have a camry 2000 automatic transmission with 150 K on it. For last few months I am having this sporadic issue with it having difficulty to change the gear from lower to higher gear(from the first to second, i guess). It goes like this, when i start speeding up the car, its having difficulty to move to higher gear, it just revs up to like 5 - 6 K rpm and with a jerk it shifts the gear. And at the same time check engine light goes on. And during the time this check engine light is on, it does this same thing a couple of times or so.
Then after some time the check engine light goes away and the car runs just fine without any issues for some tine and then the same thing happens again and after some time the issue and the check engine light goes away and the car runs just fine again. this keeps happening every few weeks. So I took the car to the mechanic (check engine light has gone away at this time, who told the code was showing some "speed sensor" issue and they replaced this. After that the car ran just fine for a couple of months. But its starting to do the same thing again.
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1991 Acura Legend 6 cylinders
For about a week, my car was hard to start, and very sluggish upon acceleration. By Friday, the car was not getting over 20 mph, chugging, and semi-backfiring. I took off the valve covers and found quite a bit of oil in the 2nd cylinder, along with a crude covered ignition coil. I replaced all 6 spark plugs (properly gapped) and bought a new coil for the #2 cylinder. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets, and all 6 rings to prevent more oil seepage. After putting everything back together, making sure wires were correctly aligned, the car will not start. It cranks, but does not turn over. I put the old coil back on, and it did the same thing- crank but no start. Have I lost compression? How can I restore compression? The engine sounds so close to turning over, but not quite there. I'm stumped.
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Auto tranny takes a half second to go into gear. It doesn't slip just slight hesitation going into gear. This rig has 173000 miles on it and I don't know its maintenance history and don't want to stick much money in it.
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I have a 2004 Toyota Camry, automatic trans, 172k miles, still in great shape and has been well cared for with standard preventative maintenance. When it's cold (<30F), the transmission will not shift out of 2nd or 3rd gear, can't tell which. It reaches about 40mph before the RPMs approach 3000, and I dare not push it harder. Let the car warm up or drive it for 5 minutes and everything is fine. This has happened the last two winters. The car runs great other than this, which means there is no apparent problem 8 months of the year. I had the transmission fluid flushed and filter changed last year thinking it may improve, but there was no change. What could be the culprit?
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My Toyota is leaking oil from above the oil pan, in the front. I think it is we're the crank shaft plate is. Do I have to pull the engine to replace the gasket
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1991 Toyota Tercel 197,000 miles 5 speed is popping out of 5th gear, if I don"t hold my hand on the shifter it pops out.
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A while ago, I acquired a 1991 Mazda 626 automatic (currently 105,000 miles) that now has what appear to be the beginning of transmission issues. It hard shifts from 1st to 2nd - the shift jerks really hard when the car is cold but once I've driven it for 15-20 minutes the hard shift almost disappears completely and stays that way as long as the car is warm - except for stop and go traffic (Seattle traffic) than the hard shift comes back no matter how long I've been driving. The only other shifting issue I notice is on the hills where it seems to shift more frequently than I might expect it too.
Other than what I've described this car is in perfect condition inside and out, as well as engine-wise. My question is on transmissions and whether I should get a rebuilt one. I've taken it to multiple transmission shops and almost all have told me two things 1) I need a new transmission and 2) that the issue is a hard component problem and I could most likely drive this car for months or years without having to replace the transmission - if I want to put up with the rough shifts. They recommended just driving it until the transmission goes out and then replacing it.
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I have a 1991 bronco with a 351w and the e4od trans.. The transmission is shifting late and hard and sometimes when i let off of the gas to slow down it shifts between gears up and down by itself... The only lights on the dash that are on is the Rear Anti-lock brake light and the speedometer is not working either.. Where to start the trouble shooting to fix it?
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OK, my daughter bought a clunker. Engine compression tested good, and transmission shifted fine so I proceeded to fix the car. Everything went fine until I got to the passenger side axle. I've always reused the inboard "tulip", and have never pulled one. Until today. The boot on the remanufactured shaft would not fit over the old tulip. I rented a slide hammer with a cv remover attachment and removed the old tulip. I then installed the new shaft, using a hammer on the end of the shaft to reseat the new shaft in the transmission. I didn't hit it hard. Now the car makes a horrible groaning sound when I put it in reverse. When I shift back to park, it sounds like a gear grinding. Also, the car rolls when its in park as if it was in neutral. I'm totally stumped as to what I did wrong. Did I destroy the transmission???
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I have a 91 Celica that has a strange transmission problem. She hates the cold weather. No joke, she drives GREAT in the warm weather. But when its cold, she refuses to change into the highest gear until she feels like she's warmed up enough. But even then, she will randomly downshift again (all other things like speed, elevation, etc. constant.) When that happens, the RPMs (obviously) jump up. I always try to slow down when that happens, and eventually (5-7 minutes later) she shifts back into the appropriate gear.
I've owned it less than two years and have done A LOT of work on it. I am hoping to upgrade with a vehicle from a family member, and actually have the Celica for sale (and I hate selling cars......I don't think $1400 is too much for her!) Only 133,000 miles as she sat for a LONG time before I got her. I got all the kinks worked out except this transmission issue. Everyone I've talked to is stumped. And other than the "cold" issue, she shifts beautifully. I've been told to NOT flush or change the fluid at this point, so I haven't done that, but it's full.
I don't know if it's related, but the temperature gauge very rarely makes it off the 'C' mark. Sometimes when I'm idling it will climb to a whopping 15-20%, but generally it lives at or below the 'C.' I have never seen it at or above 50%.
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Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
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My 97 AWD Aerostar bumps in and out of gear on very hot days. I've had the transmission fluid and filter changed. That repair worked, but it still shifts hard when very hot. I tow a boat. I always push the shifter button in to deactivate the OD when towing. I talked to friends who recommended an auxiliary transmission cooler. I looked on the van where one might be installed. I have a factory transmission cooler (oem factory installed).
The cooler is in front of the radiator. I don't see any room to add an additional cooler. The van has 145,000 miles. The van runs and shifts fine most of the time. The problem has happened only on very hot days. What I can do to prevent transmission problems. I've read that the AWD 1997s use a five speed transmission. 1997 was the first and last year the five speed automatic was installed in the AWD Aerostar.
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I have a 91 camry that failed the CA smog test because it lets out a puff of smoke when you floor and release the throttle. Could it be anything other than the rings?
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I am a owner of a 2012 Toyota Camry LE with 18,000 miles on it. I am having a issue when I go over any bumps, or turning, I hear a popping noise coming from the right rear.
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My 1998 V6 Camry has rattle on right front and now starting on left too. Bad shocks were replaced and still rattles going over bumps at speeds 20-35. Don't notice on freeway. Car drives fine, no pulling or other problems just irritating noise at slower speeds. Two different mechanics say the Strut mount plate is loose. Could not find any other problems? Is it okay to leave the mount plates in place? Mechanics say other than annoying there isn't a problem.
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I have a 98 Toyota 4Runner, which just started what I'm told is pinging or knocking on "hard accelerations", like accelerating on the merge lane when I see cars coming up behind me in the lane I want to merge into, or going uphill. i have 258,000 miles, and have the SUV serviced regularly and get things fixed when they need it. I told the dealer about it a month ago when I had regular servicing, and he did something to clean the fuel injector, and suggested I try 89 octane (he specifically recommended Sunoco), and if that worked I could try going back to 87 octane (Sunoco was his recommendation again). I did as he suggested, and the pinging/knocking seemed to get better with 89, but returned with 87. I read the Q&A on this, but still have questions. Why did this just start after 14 years? Should I do anything about, in other words is it harmful? If so, what should I do? Does the brand of gasoline have anything to do with this, or anything else for that matter? I am hoping to keep the SUV for a couple more years (300,000 miles), maybe longer.
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my wife has a 03 wagon 1.8t with a manual, lately she and i have been having problems getting car into second under normal acceleration from a stop.
Clutch is good no slippage problems.
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Lately I've been having trouble with my car in third gear under hard acceleration while in tip mode with DSG. I have been Stage 2 since April and it hasn't really been an issue until recently.
The best way I can describe it is when you get into 3rd with your foot on the gas the car stops accelerating and kind of gets stuck. I have to completely let off the gas and before it "wakes up" again. I feel like it's been getting worse in worse, but it only ever happens when I try to push it hard.
No problems in auto mode or sport, it's just a major let down. Could the fuel pump be the culprit? It just feels like the car doesn't want to move for a second or 2, like no response from the gas pedal.
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