Toyota - Camry :: 1989 - Cranks But Does Not Turn Over
Jun 12, 2011
I have an 89' Toyota Camry. Left lights on, dead battery. Tried to jump in the dark, might have crossed wires. Blew main fuse, replaced it and battery. Car cranks but does not turn over. I do not think it is getting spark, could not see it. What's wrong?
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My 89 Corolla started overheating when I turn on the AC. If I don't use the AC, the temp. is fine. 2-3 min. after turning on AC, temp. gauge rises and I must turn off AC. My husband, a devout CT listener has some mechanical skills & ck'd it out. He replaced the fan relay, but that didn't fix it. History: the 1st time it happened, the AC was on and blowing cool air, suddenly, the air wasn't cool and I noticed the temp. rising and turned off the AC. I stopped and checked the radiator fluid and it was low, so filled the overflow with coolant. Drove home (30 min.) and it was fine.
A week later, same thing - I'm on the freeway, air is blowing cool, then not and heats up. Ck'd radiator - fluid level is fine. Problem was somewhat intermittent as it wasn't happening 'all the time'. Yesterday, same thing again on the way to see the dentist 40 min. out in mid-afternoon sweltering heat. Had to drive there and back with no AC - quite miserable. Replaced the thermostat not too long ago and the radiator also had to be replaced year before last. I have health issues and really can't handle the heat and fumes and must have AC in this climate. We can't afford to take it to a mechanic. If this car goes, them I'm car-less. It's a great car and keeps on going - 240,000+ miles.
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I have a 1989 Toyota Camry station wagon. I was driving it tonight on a slow neighborhood street and it just died. When I tried to start it back up, it won't start. I have power, all lights and things at full strength. When trying to start it it makes a high-pitched whirring screeching sound. I don't know where the starter is located, but the sound seems to be coming from around the spark plugs or behind/under them.
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During the cold snap over the last few months, my 1997 Toyota 4Runner has been having starting problems with the following symptoms in this order:
I turn the key and nothing happens.
I keep turning the key from off to start, and the starter eventually engages and cranks 2 or 3 times, but the engine does not turn over.
I keep trying and the starter engages and keeps cranking even after I turn the key off.
I panic, and turn the key on and off until the starter stops cranking.
I try a few more times and the starter cranks and the engine catches, but lugs until I pump a little gas.
Really weird thing. Occasionally, after the above sequence, the emergency brake light stays on even though the brake handle has been disengaged, and it feels like I have no power, then the light goes out and the car runs just fine.
The problem in intermittent. Cold seems to cause it although it doesn't cause it every time. Rain may be a factor as well. Sometimes, I only have to turn the key a few times, and then the starter will engage. I changed the battery after the trouble began, and it cranks well if and when the starter engages.
Up until this I have not had a day's trouble with this vehicle other than a little belt squeaking.
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I have a 2005 SE 3.3L engine with 115000Miles,
When you turn the ignition key , you have to wait for it to crank 6-7 times before it starts. whether engine is cold or warm it makes no difference.
I was wondering how your engines ( 3.3Ls) behave, does that start immediately after 1-2 cranks, or it is normal for this type of engines to take 6-7 turns ?
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From a cold start, my '89 Civic starts and runs just fine - on a short trip. If I shut it off for 15 minutes and let it sit, then try to restart it, it cranks REALLY slow, misfires and won't start (like the cylinders are fighting each other). The battery's brand new, with plenty of juice. So the next time it happened, I disconnected all 4 plug wires - it cranked nice and fast, no resistance. This leads me to believe that the ignition timing is getting messed up once the engine warms up. I think the coil is fine, because the plugs are firing when the wires are connected. I'm thinking it could be a bad sensor that acts up when it gets warm. My prime suspect is the TDC/Crank Sensor. Does the TDC/Crank Sensor can fail when warm?
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A month or two ago I noticed my car starting to turn over a bit slower. Then finally woke to car that would not start. I tapped on the starter and it turned over. I took the car to local AutoZone store, tested the electrical system while the car was running...Starter - Good, Alternator - Good, Battery had a few dead cells. I also took out the alternator and starter to have them bench tested. Both passed. So I put everything back and got a new battery. Seemed to have fixed the problem for a couple weeks. Then today go out to start the car and the same thing. Car won't turn over...pop the hood a little tap on the starter and it turns over just fine. Same cycle all day...Turn off car, then wont turn over unless I tap the starter. So I take it out again, and take it to the local auto store...Starter passes again.
It seems like it must be the Starter if the tap works, but I thought the bench tests were pretty accurate? All the cables and connectors look to be in really good shape and if it were the Starter Relay, Alternator, or Battery I wouldn't think that tapping the Starter would make any difference.
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1995 toyota camry 4 cylinder engine - My car was working fine yesterday, but today when I inserted my key; the key won't turn at all. I have try changing the shift control to neutral and jerk the steeling wheel. I have also went and copy my key. When I inserted the new key, it finally turn all the way, but then it got stuck in the ignition. After a few hour I got the new out of the ignition and try again. This time the new key can't turn all the way. My uncle believe that the key ignition sensory is the problem.
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My head lights in my Solara turn on automatically when I start the car and off when I stop the car. But now when I turn off the car the lights stay on which kills my battery unless I disconect the battery. Which is making me fail the computer part of my emission test. What is keeping my head lights from turning off?
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I have a 96 toyota camry that won't start. when i turn the key, the starter clicks but doesn't turn. I replaced the starter and it works fine (as does the one i took out). the battery was obviously checked and is charged. When I hook up the starter to the leads and its not in the engine it doesn't turn (in other words, its not a locked engine). I replaced one of the fuses in the starting relay and it didn't make a difference. So the problem is between the battery and the starter - the starter isn't getting enough power (if i take it to an autoparts store it works when hooked up to their system but doesn't work (but makes a click) when hooked up to the car.
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I have 02 camry xle with digital a/c , the a/c only works on max cold, if i set the temp to 65 ot 70 ot any number it will become heat ,
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I have a 2001 toyota camry ce in Miami, fl which is overheating. the fans seem to come on only if i turn on the a/c. however the temperature still rises and gauge needle hits red. if on idle the fans never come on. observed fluid inside radiator with cap off and it does not run through while on idle with a/c off, it just gets hot. changed thermostat and added new 50-50 antifreeze, still same. I'm suspecting a switch but why is fluid never running even when hot? I even drive it with hood open (unlatched) to let a bit more air in and still overheats, even with a/c on and fans running (again, they only turn on with a/c on), it overheats.
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I've got a 2005 Toyota Camry that was recently involved in a front end collision. Since it returned from the shop, it will occasionally stick when coming out of a left-hand turn. Basically the wheel stops for a second and you have to apply a little force to get it to turn back straight. It does not always do this, and it seems to be more evident at higher speeds.
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2000 Camry 4 CYL ... Very sporadically, the car won't start. The battery was replaced a year ago, so that's not the problem. The lights on the dashboard turn on, but there is no sound and the car won't turn on. After turning the key 10-12 times, the car finally starts. It happens in rain, no rain, mild or hot weather. There just does not seem to be a reason. We had the mechanic change the spark plugs, but that didn't work. He doesn't want to start replacing things willy-nilly until he can duplicate the problem in his shop. We just don't want our daughter out late at night, and have THAT be the one time the car refuses to start.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. About once every 15 to 20 times I turn the ignition, the car won't start. Sometimes there's just a click and then nothing, and sometimes all the lights on the dashboard will flash for a second and then nothing, in each case the starter does not turn over. However, I discovered that instead of needing a jump from another car, if I just connect the jumper cables to the battery and leave the other end of the cable on the ground, the car will start right up after this happens. One other note, the clock is always reset after this. What is the problem and how can this be fixed?
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i have camry 2000 xle and my problem is rear light indicator turn on although all rear light work ok.
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I have a 1989 manual drive TOYOTA 4RUNNER, diesel. My mechanic has done everything, new head gasket, machined the head for warp, pressure tested the engine block, and the engine oil is still leaking into the radiator. My car used to have Air-condition but since it hasn't worked for over 5 years the compressor was removed, could this have caused the oil to leak after all those years.
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i have a vibration that starts about 45mph."When i put it in neutral it still vibrates". I did check the universals. Rig has 195,000 miles on it. Manual trans. It must be lifted because im running 265/7516s on it. Ive been busy changing fluids and such so i have been underneath it but didnt look for lift or factory.
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My issue is i recently have put two different sets of front LED turn signals in my car and only after a day or so they blow out. When i pull out the bulbs they smell burnt. i do have LED turn signals in the rear as well they are plug and play with decoders no resistor required. For the front ones i did add 50W 6Ohm resistors on each side.
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A few days ago my speedometer stopped working. Then yesterday all of my gauges stopped working, as well as my turn signals. If this is a fuse issue then which fuse it is?
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Just bought for around town. Problem with starting. Turn ignition and sometimes hear grind. Second try in neutral and she starts right up. I don't know if it's problem with key ignition/coil, or the starter.
Also need to convert a/c, fan ok but no cooling. Is this major cost to convert?
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