Toyota Blower Motor Humming Noise
Aug 11, 2013
My wife heard a humming noise on a 200 mile trip to Long Island last week. It was loud enough that she was concerned about it and took it into a Toyota dealership to have it checked out. Of course, the noise went away, and they assured her that the car was perfect!
When she came home, I drove the car and the noise came back. Radio was off and the frequency of the noise changed with the AC/heater blower speed. Turn blower (fan) off, and the noise completely disappears. Before I got home, noise disappeared again with the fan on. I believe it is a bad bearing in the blower motor.
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I am trying some troubleshooting based on various things I found for my 2010 Toyota Highlander blower motor. The issue is that my blower motor operates intermittently. Here are the symptoms and what I've done so far:
-Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. It seems to be dependent on weather (in the sun for awhile and doesn't seem to like that), although lately it doesn't really seem to matter. Had it in my garage yesterday and it just works some times and not other.
-If it works, all speeds work (full range). That makes me think it doesn't have to do with the resistors, although I can't find the electrical schematics for the car.
-All fuses are fine
-I have jiggled all wires and can never get it to work (if not working at the time) or to not work (if working at the time), so I don't think loose wires are the issue.
-I put a multimeter across the leads going to the motor and always get voltage. When the car is on, it's about 13-14V, and when it's not running just above 12V.
-The rear blower motor works perfectly, 100% of the time
-Light physical agitation of the motor doesn't make it come on or go off
My main question is what is the 3rd lead going to the motor? The two bigger leads are the voltage, but that seems to always be there, even with the car off. I'm guessing the 3rd lead is some control signal for the motor but not sure. I can't ever get a voltage on that lead, but I'm not sure I'm even supposed to. When the motor was supposed to be on and it was working, I unplugged it and checked the voltages, but got the same readings as when it wasn't working.
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The air conditioning blower motor stopped working this past summer (worst timing ever). I took it out, put it back in, and it worked again for a day before dying for good. So, I ordered a new one and replaced it. The replacement was working fine for about 5 months, but it then began exhibiting the same problem as the original: it wouldn't come on until after I'd been driving for a while. The new unit never made any unusual noises while running (the old one got noisy just before I replaced it), but now it isn't coming on at all. I find it hard to believe that the replacement blower motor has failed after only 5 months. What else should I check?
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How to change a 2003 toyota echo blower motor.... Looking for a step by step directions ....
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry 2.5L. Suddenly the blower-motor stopped working. I looked at the under-hood fuse panel and noticed a few of the fuses in the fuse bus-bar were blown, however I'm not sure how the bus-bar is removed. Is this most likely my blower-motor problem? If so, how do I replace those fuses?
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So I noticed while doing some cleaning under the hood today that something was humming or buzzing from the front of the motor. I also noticed that whatever it was was making my oil dipstick vibrate. Is this normal because I just left somewhere and the car had a little issue getting started. I had the battery and alternator tested on the way home and they are fine.
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I'm getting this weird chirping noise from what sounds like the A/C and Heat fan. When I turn it down it is noticeable and sounds like something needs oiled. Kind of like pieces of plastic hitting each other over and over again. When I turn the air up there's no noise but probably because the air rushing out is so loud. I'm thinking I may need to take something out and oil it up. Too cold here to do my own thorough investigation.
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My prius that I got about 1 1/2 years ago (2013 model) was making some noise. After conducting a few experiments I came to the conclusion it was the heat that was causing it. I removed the glovebox and lower plastic panel as well to see if it was actually the blower that was making the noise. And it was the blower.
So now it's like 20 degrees outside and I haven't used the heat because I didn't want to blow something so gotta get this fixed ASAP.
Like I mentioned glovebox and lower panel are open I've removed 2 of the 3 screws necessary to remove the blower. So the problem lies with the 3rd screw. There is a plastic socket with wires that is preventing me from reaching the 3rd screw so I have to remove that socket. So I have a couple pictures and how I can remove this so I can access the blower motor.
Also isn't it strange that the car isn't even 3 years old and the blower is giving me problems?
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I have 2011 SE (2.4L) that has a VERY noisy squeak that increases with the climate control's blower speed. The noise stops completely if the fan speed is set to OFF. It has been rectified twice by the dealer, who said they just vacuumed it out or something, that there was leaves/trash somewhere causing this. I don't even park near trees or anything! Anyway, my car is now out of warranty, how can i do this myself?
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I have a 2005 BMW X5 and the heater motor makes a shrill noise only when I am turning right.
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So for a few months now, my car has been making a subtle clicking noise whenever I have the ac or heat on, kind of similar to the noise spokes on a bike would make when children put a card in them. The noise increases/decreases in speed as I adjust the ac/heater speed.
Recently though, it's gotten to a point where sometimes, the blower motor would completely stop working. I can still feel heat and cold coming through the vents when I turn the AC on, but the it doesn't always blow air. I've noticed that sometimes when I hit a bump in the road, it starts working again. It works at all settings and all temperatures perfectly (when it's working that is).
How should I proceed? I don't know much about cars, but from what I've seen on the internet, it doesn't seem too difficult to replace the blower motor. I just want to be sure that the blower motor is indeed the cause, because I don't want to install a new one to be disappointed when I turn it on and still have the same issue. And winter is just around the corner so I would love to get this taken care of.
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My A/C has been making a loud noise for a couple months now ,only when I put the A/C on the highest setting. I was LONG overdue for a cabin air filter change so I bought a new one and while I was down there I looked inside the blower motor and here's what I saw... It is now blowing fine and not making a noise . Sprayed some Ozium New Car spray on the new cabin air filter and my car is smelling great now !
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Started up the 2002 EXP today and thought the fuel pump was failing. Get a consistent thump every 1 second. Later today i looked and noted the noise is coming from drivers rear fender well (i think). I took off the small plastic cover of the rear blower motor and thought it was in that area. Disconnected the motor and still thumps. Disconnected the blower motor resistor block and still thumps. Looked at the overhead consol and the rear blower was on HI. Turned the blower down and as you reduce speed the noise volume is lower. Turned the switch off and i thought the noise was gone. Pulled the cup holder above the fender well looking for a relay or something in that area. I cant isolate the noise but seems to be real close to that area. Later i heard the noise, very faint, and the blower switch was off. Turned it to 1-2-3 and it gets much louder. Turned it off and very slight noise. What am i looking for? My hearing is not accurate enough to find it.
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I noticed that I have an unusual "rumble" noise coming from the location of my ac blower motor when it kicks in full blast. When the air temp comes down a bit and the AC slows down or if I switch the ac off full blast under climate control, the noise goes away. I have never noticed this before and am wondering if it is my ac blower motor starting to fail.
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I have a 1993 E350 Econoline-based RV. The blower motor intermittently makes a horrible whirring/buzzing sound, usually if on position 3 or 4 (high). Doesn't stop until I turn the HVAC to Off. The blower motor vibrates quite a bit while making this noise (verified with my hand). The problem occurs even if the engine isn't running. This started a few years ago, and has simply gotten worse.
Since it runs OK at the lower speeds (until the problems start with the higher speeds), I think that means I can rule out something simple like debris? Also, when the engine is under load (climbing hills, etc.), the blower fan cuts out. Could that be a resistor problem, or something else?
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Faint humming/whistling noise coming from the drivings side of the motor. I can hear it when I put my head next to the drivers wheel well, and most certainly from that side of the motor when the hood is popped. It's not super loud, but it is noticeable. I know we have Direct injection motors, so I know that ticking is completely normal. Am I overlooking this and being paranoid? Car has 2100 miles on it. I don't know if it was there when brand new.
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I have a 2003 super duty V10 4WD super cab long bed.
loud deep rumble noise when turn on the blower. both heat and a/c. removed the blower and seemed to turn ok. blew out all vents. removed heater radiator cover, checked most flaps to see if working. doesn't seem to be obstruction invent. the flap behind blower clear and functioning ok.
When on second speed, almost sounds like blower motor is out of balance. if run on high for 1 minute, smell electrical burning! Think to replace motor will work? will post another issue with radio and power windows
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I am trying to diagnose a sound that is coming from my 2001 Camry 2.2L. When I accelerate there is a load humming noise coming from the engine. It happens at all speeds and only when I accelerate.
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I have a couple of things going on with my 2014 Toyota Camry. My car was in a recent rear end collision and I noticed the other day that my rear window defroster is no longer working. I waited 15 to 20 minutes and still nothing. The side mirror defrosters work fine. One button turns on both my rear and side mirror defrosters. The extent of the rear damage did not go past the trunk lid. They did replace the lid, but I'm not sure why that would make a difference. The rear window was not replaced. There was also some quarter panel damage underneath that required welding. It was working fine before the body work and now it's not working. Would could be the likely cause? I'd rather fix it myself if it's quick, rather than spending time taking it back tot he body shop.
The other problem...I was on a road that had a drop off on my passenger side. The lane slightly narrowed for some odd reason for just for a few feet. The front right side tire went off road and the front of my car hit the pavement pretty hard. I couldn't see any damage underneath, but of course that doesn't mean there isn't any. When I was driving to work this morning I could hear a humming noise that only got louder as I drove faster. It wasn't a continuous hum. You could hear a break in between hums but the breaks were more frequent the faster I drove. I'm not too sure what that is either? A wheel bearing?
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My '04 Phaeton was towed Nov. 24 - completely dead, blower motor fan would not turn off...even powered OFF, with key out of the ignition! Both batteries were then drained, had to be replaced to diagnose...
Ended up being blower motor fan resistor. The tech said the ESP/ESC (?) light was "now on" where it was NOT on before all this. He did not run a diagnostics, not sure why. And not sure why service manager didn't mention it before I paid and checked out. :/
But NOW the car is doing some funky things.... upon start-up, whether pulling out in drive or backing out in reverse, the brakes (or SOMETHING ??) seem to be erratically grabbing, there is an awful grinding/scraping noise, the car jerks and stutters and hops, just for a few seconds, then something seems to "give"/"release" and the grinding and scraping and jumping stops and I roll on like normal. BUT the ESP light (that is now CONSTANTLY on), BLINKS/FLASHES when this grinding and stutter-stepping happens. It sounds awful, it feels awful, and it's making me nervous. Of course I contacted VW service immediately, and they're saying I can bring it back in to run diagnostics.
I know for a fact the car was completely dead, NOTHING worked, as both batteries were "fired" according to VW.....so nothing between the car dying and the batteries and blower motor being fixed transpired -- except the towing. And my guess is the had to DRAG it onto the flatbed in PARK b/c it would not take a charge at all to put in NEUTRAL.
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I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy and I am having an issue with the blower motor. Speeds 1 and 2 do not seem to work. Speeds 3 and 4 work fine. This is the manual climate control not the automatic. I searched and it seems everyone usually has a problem with the high speeds & not the low speeds...
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