Toyota - Avalon :: Shakes During Acceleration
Aug 10, 2015
This started pretty recently and i am hoping is won't cost too much to fix. If I drive the car for about 10 - 20 minutes it doesn't have a problem but past that it will start to shake during acceleration. I took the car to fire stone and was told that the axles and struts had gone bad and have replaced the axles. The problem is still there and i don't want to put too much money into the car if I might have to do some major repairs. The car has nearly 170,000 miles to date.
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I'm a MKV guy, but a coworker wants me to glance on the Vortex to take a look to see if I can find any answers to her Passat situation. It shakes (steering wheel, body, everything shakes like you're going up a roller-coaster) while you accelerate. Once you meet the speed you want to go, it stops. If you accelerate, then it will continue shaking.
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i have a 1994 buick park avenue non supercharge. I replaced the harmonic balancer because it was split all the way around. ok then i start having low fuel pressure. it was at at 22psi so i got the fuel pump, strainer and filter replaced i also notice my cat was turning red. I also got the cat replaced and part of the new one is starting to turn red. I am experiencing poor acceleration ...my car shakes but shakes more when im in drive and foot on the brake..i can tell the difference in the acceleration from when i put the new cat on..it picked up a little bit but its not how its suppose to be. I also notice two of my coil packs have a slight crack across the top by the numbers....
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I own a Celica '00 and have been driving it for 8 years. In the last year I've noticed that my CEL started coming on. Did some scans and got P0171 error code from Autozone. The Celica was running lean and took some time to accelerate but run fine for a while. It got worse soon and I took it to a mechanic. He diagnosed a bad Cat Converter and he replaced it with an universal one. He also replaced the first Oxygen sensor, Spark Plugs, Fuel Pump and the Mass Air Flow sensor. Car's CEL came back one after 10 miles of driving. At that time I put in a 4" silencer for my muffler. The silencer had a 2.5" opening and worked well to lower the muffler noise.
The CEL was still on and I disconnected the negative on the battery to see if I can reset it. Well, once I connected it back and tried to turn on my Car all hell broke loose. The engine now has extreme sputters, shakes and hesitates to accelerate above 5-10mph. I barely drove it back to the mechanic. He still is not sure what the problem is, he thinks replacing the other sensors and troubleshooting the coils should be the next step. I'm wondering if my silencer could have caused any damage? Also, I'm wondering if there is valve damage inside the cylinder? The code we're getting now is Cylinder 4 misfire. What about the Fuel filter? I don't think it has been changed at all. The car is at 122,000 miles right now.
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So. My car shakes badly when I get above 35 mph and up. It shakes under acceleration and braking above these speeds. Under these speeds its fine. When I am above 35 if I am just coasting its fine it doesn't shake. The shaking feels like I am off the side of the road and driving over rumble strips. What could be the cause of this?
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My 2005 Accord steering wheel shakes quite a bit when I start to accelerate. I had the tires rebalanced, and it's still happening. The dealership indicated that there was "play" in both axles, and they both needed to be replaced ..... There's 85,000 miles on the vehicle and it's in excellent condition, could this shaking be caused by something else ?
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I own a '90 Honda Accord and it constantly shakes, has poor acceleration and seems to use too much gas. I thought it was the catalytic converter and I installed a high flow cat. The fuel pump went out so I had that replaced. It shakes less since replacing the cat but I still see the gas gauge go down too low when I press on the gas and the car will stall and stop as I get to "E" when normally I was able to drive many miles past "E". Any guesses? I'm wondering if I need to replace the fuel pressure regulator.
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It's a 2002 Toyota Camry, v6. We just got brand new tires on it. The car shakes really bad between 20 - 60 mph as long as the accelerator is applied. After 60 mph the shaking mellows out and it seems normal while the accelerator is applied. Between 20 and 60 mph while the car is shaking, if I remove my foot from the accelerator the shaking stops and car is normal. To sum up, the shaking only seems to be there while the accelerator is applied. Is there a part I can replace that is relatively simple to do...If so, what part is it?. I'm not too be with cars. I've done some pretty big jobs following repair manuals.
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I just got a 2002 Toyota Camry. She runs fine, but the one thing that bugs me is that when I am stopped and my A/C is on, she shakes. I needed to do to make it stop shaking or if this is normal?
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My steering wheel vibrates when I stop or when i turn on the AC...
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My son's 1998 shook and cut off at a red light today. I am taking it to be fixed and do not want to be taken for a ride financially. What it could be, so I can show up at the repair shop professing some knowledge?
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I bought a used Toyota Camry 2012. It has 40,000 miles on it now, The car shakes all the time. It feels like the front wheels are vibrating, and the suspension is bouncing all the time. At slow speeds, and it gets worse at faster speeds. All I can say is that it is very uncomfortable drive. When I bought the car a year ago it had a very luxurious ride. Now it feels like there is something very wrong. Enough wrong so that I do not even want to drive it anymore. I have taken it to 4 different Toyota dealers, and one private mechanic. All say that there is nothing wrong with the car.
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5 speed stick shift, first thing in the morning no problem, after driving a while it shakes in reverse and does not want to move, going forward is no problem, clutch and cv joints were replaced 4 years ago, 170k miles.
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I have a 1993 toyota tercel that has a strange problem. The car starts fine when the engine is cold. If I drive it 15 to 20 minutes and stop and then try to start it again it will either not start or if it does, it makes a putting noise and shakes. Also if this is happening and I turn the steering wheel, the car will stop.
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So I've had ongoing issues with this car that no mechanic seems to be able to diagnose. It jerks when I accelerate and decelerate pretty badly. It sometimes lets out a big cloud of smoke right when I start it. Now, it has developed some pretty violent shaking when I first start it up. It will only do this if the engine is completely cold and car has been sitting overnight. I feel like all these symptoms are related somehow. I have changed all the spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body. I've also had all the motor mounts replaced. I really wish the engine light would come on but it will not and never has.
It's really annoying that it only happens on startup so when I take it to the mechanic, well, they can't replicate it. What to try?
2002 Toyota Camry LE V6 136k miles Automatic
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I just bought a 2009 Toyota Camry with 78K miles on it. Everything is great except at highway speeds it shakes and vibrates when braking. The higher the speed the worse it is. Steering wheel shakes as well. I pulled both front tires off and the rotors appear to be smoothe on both sides with no grooves, etc. However, I'm due for new front brake pads. There's some pad left but could that be why it shakes and vibrates when braking? How do you tell if rotors are warped? Rotors are smooth but could they still be warped?
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I occasionally experience steering wheel vibration no matter what speed I'm traveling. It starts out as a small shake and eventually becomes nearly impossible to hold onto the steering wheel. On two separate occasions, the brakes have gone out.The car has passed PA state safety inspection and I have taken it to 3 different mechanics and no one can figure out what the problem is. I have had new tires and spark plugs installed, keep up with regular oil changes, etc.
2004 Toyota Corolla S, 4 cylinders, 1.81 l engine, 240,000 miles, manual transmission..
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The car is a manual transmission 2005 Toyota Corolla with around 90,000 miles. I'm not the only owner. The car was bought used. It appears that the car was in a front end accident that doesn't appear in a carfax report. This can be identified by the poor clearcoat paint job on the hood flaking off and the absence of the air conditioner, as well as some rather pathetic body, work with noticeable bends and a few missing screws. Most of which I consider cosmetic and irrelivant to the car's operations.
The tires are bald and the car has had an alignment about 2 years ago after I replaced the struts. I wasn't notified of any bad ball joints, but that doesn't mean thats out of the question. The car has a bit of a shake at high speeds. Sometimes the shaking is violent enough to reduce speed. I noticed that more often the shake is really bad above 60 and quite scary above 70. This isn't always the case. Sometimes the shake isn't as noticable by comparison.
At low speeds the car seems to have a wobble or repeatative hop. The steering wheel has a rythmic pattern moving back and forth a few degrees. Enough to make holding a full cup or soda not a safe choice unless the desire is to wear the drink. The wobble appears to be a little worse when the car is cold. Winter mornings seem to bring out the worst in the wobble.
I would like to do as much work on my own as possible to save $, but I realize I may need professional service equipment to diagnose some of this. Can car tires be diagnosed for having bulges with some sort of test aside from visual inspection alone? Is there a tool that can be used to verify the metal of the wheel is true and not the source of the wobble? Do wobbles and shakes derive from bad tie rods and/or ball joints? What is the most common problem that produces symptoms similar to mine?
I enjoy the car's money saving potential, but it lacks an air conditioner which is vital for defrost operations and keeping the insane summer heat tolerable. If the repairs will cost me more than the car is worth I may choose to invest that money into a 2005 model as a replacement since I've grown tired of the lack of radio and no air conditioner. I'm trying to keep 5ish years behind the curve as not to waste money on the politics of new car value depreciation.
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Ok,I have brought my car (2005 Toyota Echo) into the shop three times and they can't figure it out. I have summer and winter tires. Last summer the summer tires were fine, the winter tires were fine, then I changed the front tires, and couldn't remove the back tires (I hit them with a hammer and 2x4 and they didn't come off). From that point on my car has vibrated at around 60mph, but not 100% of the time.
I took the car in to the mechanic, they changed the back tire for me and balanced the front...still vibrates, they then balanced the back...still vibrates. Now they say the disk rotor is bent, and want to fix that but aren't sure that will fix the problem. What's going on, I changed the front tires and now the car vibrates at high speed most of the time, but not all the time.
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I have a 2001 Toyota celica GT auto. It has 120k miles. I seem to have an issue that really is not causing a problem except for annoyance. After coming to a stop the car seems to exhibit the signs of stalling (car idles rough, shakes a bit) however the car never stalls. Once I start driving all is well. Now I took it to the dealer and they replaced the Idle Air Control Valve which is under the throttle body. They said it was getting stuck and due to the higher mileage possible. It was replaced and the problem is still there. The funny thing is even though the car exhibits these stalling symptoms the idle does not drop below 500 rpm (both dealer and I have verified this).
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The ABS light comes on in the dash. This is in addition to the check engine light which was determined to be a sensor. What does the ABS light mean? what will it cost to fix?
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