Toyota - Avalon :: 2000 - Front Three Ignition Coil Won't Working While Idling?
Dec 24, 2011
I've been having issues with my 2000 Toyota Avalon for the past few days. After troubleshooting with my mechanic this morning, we discovered that the front three ignition coils (when looking at the car from the front bumper) do not function when the car idles. However, they seem to work perfectly once the RPM increases past about 2500. I bought some new ignition coils to replace the originals, but no joy with those. The idle is still very rough and one can feel the misfire any time the engine is not revving higher than 2500 RPM. During our tests, we also found that the original coils do not produce a spark when the spark plugs are inserted. I did the same test with the new coils and had the same result, although the middle plug sparked briefly. The fuse for the ignition coils has been checked (it's fine). I know it must be electrical but was wondering where exactly the problem lies?
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Ok, here is what happens to my car:
The engine wobbles when idling or at very low speed - some times the engine shuts down in stop and go traffic (very dangerous). Doesn't pick up speed when i try to accelerate from a stop position - the engine revs up and then the car lurches forward (suddenly) as the transmission seems to engage. The same happen when i slow down to almost very low speed and then tries to speed up. I also hear a kind of thud (transmission most probably).
The CEL is ON and some time blinks.
My OBD is showing the following codes: P0171 P0172 P1150 P0300 P0302 P0304 and P0306
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I have a question regarding oil burning by the 2GR-FE V6. My avalon is a 2006 xls/navi, 160 000 km, very well maintained, only synthetic oil changes (AMSOL 5w-30, but switching to 10w-30 now that the oil burning began). All the recalls were done on it already, it was dealer maintained till 65k then I took over when we bought the car. The only other issue I had with it were the 3 consecutive ignition coil failures (by the way, you must replace those with oem toyota parts, I tried saving money on aftermarket and the results were discouraging).
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The 2005 Avalon has 48K miles and it's been running well without any issues, until today.
Driving in city traffic, max speed is about 30 ml/h, The "Check Engine" light and the "VSC (Vehicle Slip Control) Off" lights came on. I did stop the engine, restarted after couple of minutes and the same lights stayed on. The car ran just fine, no noticeable difference in performance.
With the OBDCOM reader, the Avalon has this code:
P0351 232
P0351 Ignition coil A primary/secondary circuit malfunction
That seems to indicate a malfunction for cylinder A, or #1, ignition coil that has nothing to do with the "VSC" AFAIK. Is this a misread by OBDCOM reader, or the Avalon is confused?
The code had been reset via the OBDCOM reader, the car runs fine, neither of the lights come on now. Should I do something about coil A, or just wait until the code comes back?
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2000 Honda Accord. I've been told I have a bad ignition coil. Do I need to replace all six or can I just replace the one?
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Car is idling rough. Mechanic said it might be an oil restriction not getting to a sensor and advancing the timing.
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I just bought my 2009 toyota avalon and i wanted to know if it was normal for a knocking noise when the car is on and idling. Car has 46k on it. What a normal idling avalon sounds like?
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2000 Avalon . Now when I use the key fob to lock/unlock, the outside lights do not flash. Also the park lights aren't on .
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On last start up the starter sort of sounded odd, thought nothing of it. Went to go to the store again, and nothing. Keyless entry does not work. No activity at all. Used the key to get in and try to start...nothing. tried to open the trunk from inside. Nothing. Replaced battery about 3 months ago. No problems with that. Car is maintained religiously.
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I have a 97 toyota avalon. I just had the battery and alternator changed. Now my clock does not keep correct time (I believe this is only when the car is not running). Also my dome light will not work any longer. My car auto lock does does not lock on its own any more, and if I use the power locks and turn on the dome light, the car unlocks, but the dome light still does not come on. This all started about a week or two ago after installing the alternator.
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I have an 83 Toyota 4x4 pickup. 4 months ago I was backing up in a parking garage and hooked my front bumper on a concrete column. I took it to my mechanic and found out I broke my right motor mount. I replaced both motor mounts and still have the vibration. I took it to Big O and they found nothing wrong with the frame but said I needed an alignment. (true) BUT the truck vibrates even when it idles. When I push in the brake pedal, the vibration dampens a little bit, like muffled a bit. What's wrong with my truck?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon. The A/C will only come on if the switch is turned to full blast, but even then it makes a really loud grinding noise and does not blow very cold air. Is this a compressor issue or blower motor? I am assuming the switch is bad since it only works on highest speed, but could it be something else causing this also?
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I have a 1997 Toyota Camry with over 200,000 miles. It is a manual: 5 speed. In the past few months it has started to idle at around 2000 RPMS, which is way too high. I took the car into a mechanic where I am currently living (Austin, TX), and they couldn't diagnose the problem, because, according to them, it didn't do it the whole time they had it. I admit, it doesn't do it all the time, but I know something is not right. It is beginning to idle high more frequently. How to diagnose this problem and to solve it!!
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I have a 2000 toyota 4runner and the key will not turn in the ignition.We bought a new key from the dealer and also tried wd-40 in the ignition, still no luck.
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My 94 truck (Toyota 6 cylinder 3VZ engine) is currently idling at ~2000 when I first start the engine. After warming up or driving for a substantial amount of time, this eventually drops to ~1000-1100. I had the throttle body removed and cleaned (twice). This stopped some up-and-down revving which was happening, but not the high idling. This is a relatively recent development, and I've gone to 3 mechanics AND the dealer, all of whom say, 'it's fine'. They say it should run 'a little higher when it's cold'.
I think some of these assessments were based on the simple lack of engine error messages (no codes from the computer = no problem). I admit that I'm no expert, but I've had the truck for a decade; I know what's 'fine' and what's not. The usual idle was ~800 (in agreement with specs) and I've driven this truck in temps down to -30F. It has never idled this high before. Since it gets close to normal RPMs after warming up, I don't want to turn the idle adjustment down. I moved from a very cold, very dry climate at 6000 ft to a very wet, moderately cold climate at sea level - is there some other adjustment I need to make? Or is it normal for this engine to run so differently in these two climates? I'm at the end of my rope since no one thinks it's a problem except me.
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We own a 2000 Toyota Tundra--90,000 miles--obviously not used hard. When we turn on the ignition, we hear a ticking sound--sounds like it might be coming from underneath car passenger side. The sound seems to disappear as we drive it. What it might be? Toyota service person told us it might be exhaust manifold and estimated maybe 2K to fix it.
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I have a Toyota Tundra 2000 SR5 V8 4.7L with about 100k miles on it. Today the starter did not disengage after I turned the ignition off. I did not disconnect the battery in time and now the battery is completely dead (no charge even to the door locks). About two months ago I replaced a three-year-old battery after I could not start the truck and measured only about 9 volts on the battery with a multimeter. Now I realize that a starter already going bad was probably affecting the first battery.
Questions: Does it sound right that a starter that does not disengage will kill a battery pretty quickly? For a starter that does not disengage, are we looking at the starter or the solenoid or the relay or not enough information yet to know? Does this model Tundra have an integrated starter and solenoid or separate? Where is the starter? Is there any recommended order of replacement/troubleshooting (for example, start with the relay, or it's probably the solenoid so start there).
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We have two 2000 Echos with 125,000 and 130,000 miles on them. We took my husband's Echo into the shop because it died when idling, and then it started running rough and stumbling. Also needed an alignment. They fixed it by replacing the idle sensor, the mass air flow sensor, and worked on the valve train. They said they couldn't do the alignment because the control arms needed to be replaced due to the bushings. A week before his car went into the shop, my car started running rough and stumbling. So I took it in when I picked his car up. Same diagnosis except for the idle. Is it reasonable for BOTH to need all this work at the same approx. mileage?
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What's the easiest way to get access to the ac clutch coil without removing the compressor. How do you get to the coil? how many snap rings are there?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon XLS with 134k miles, engine is a v6 (3.0). It has a rough idle and a steady misfire. You can drive it sometimes and it will run perfect and you can drive it sometimes and it will misfire. I am getting codes P1150, P0300,P0302, P0304,P0306. Driving me nuts.
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What to do Misfire Error all cylinders also coil code P0356 . It is 2006 Avalon Ltd with 37,000 miles always maintained and all recalls completed. Is there something I missed or is this for real or could there be a common problem that is causing all the errors. Car idles ok and no problem driving below 60 mph anything over and you can fell a shutter like it will lose power.
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