Toyota - Avalon :: 2000 - Engine Wobbles When Idling Or At Very Low Speed
Dec 12, 2012
Ok, here is what happens to my car:
The engine wobbles when idling or at very low speed - some times the engine shuts down in stop and go traffic (very dangerous). Doesn't pick up speed when i try to accelerate from a stop position - the engine revs up and then the car lurches forward (suddenly) as the transmission seems to engage. The same happen when i slow down to almost very low speed and then tries to speed up. I also hear a kind of thud (transmission most probably).
The CEL is ON and some time blinks.
My OBD is showing the following codes: P0171 P0172 P1150 P0300 P0302 P0304 and P0306
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I've been having issues with my 2000 Toyota Avalon for the past few days. After troubleshooting with my mechanic this morning, we discovered that the front three ignition coils (when looking at the car from the front bumper) do not function when the car idles. However, they seem to work perfectly once the RPM increases past about 2500. I bought some new ignition coils to replace the originals, but no joy with those. The idle is still very rough and one can feel the misfire any time the engine is not revving higher than 2500 RPM. During our tests, we also found that the original coils do not produce a spark when the spark plugs are inserted. I did the same test with the new coils and had the same result, although the middle plug sparked briefly. The fuse for the ignition coils has been checked (it's fine). I know it must be electrical but was wondering where exactly the problem lies?
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2002 Toyota Sienna wobbles when engine under load and is more noticeable at certain speeds (like around 40 mph). The wobble is lateral in the body of the car and the steering wheel IS NOT vibrating.AutoMD web site suggests it may be the motor mounts. I did their diagnostic suggestion of putting the car in gear with the emergency brake on and foot on brake .. and revving the engine and letting up. I didn't notice a "knock" when the torque was released on the engine.My local mechanic is stymied ... says he checked the motor mounts, and front end mechanics and they are OK ...
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Car is idling rough. Mechanic said it might be an oil restriction not getting to a sensor and advancing the timing.
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My 94 truck (Toyota 6 cylinder 3VZ engine) is currently idling at ~2000 when I first start the engine. After warming up or driving for a substantial amount of time, this eventually drops to ~1000-1100. I had the throttle body removed and cleaned (twice). This stopped some up-and-down revving which was happening, but not the high idling. This is a relatively recent development, and I've gone to 3 mechanics AND the dealer, all of whom say, 'it's fine'. They say it should run 'a little higher when it's cold'.
I think some of these assessments were based on the simple lack of engine error messages (no codes from the computer = no problem). I admit that I'm no expert, but I've had the truck for a decade; I know what's 'fine' and what's not. The usual idle was ~800 (in agreement with specs) and I've driven this truck in temps down to -30F. It has never idled this high before. Since it gets close to normal RPMs after warming up, I don't want to turn the idle adjustment down. I moved from a very cold, very dry climate at 6000 ft to a very wet, moderately cold climate at sea level - is there some other adjustment I need to make? Or is it normal for this engine to run so differently in these two climates? I'm at the end of my rope since no one thinks it's a problem except me.
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I just bought my 2009 toyota avalon and i wanted to know if it was normal for a knocking noise when the car is on and idling. Car has 46k on it. What a normal idling avalon sounds like?
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My 2008 Avalon A/C fan speed periodically won't run at the highest speed. When I take it off of "auto", I can step up the fan speed and see the segments on the display light up with each increase in speed. Each segment lights up (they are in a oval shape) indicating that it should be at the highest speed, but it just doesn't seem to blow as hard as it used to.
I think this fan motor is controlled by a PWM controller rather than resistors. Is that correct and where I could find the PWM controller? My thought was that if it was not too expensive I would change that out first. If the fan works, could there be a problem with the fan motor?
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My Avalon has 55,000 miles on it. when it is idling the motor seems to be very noisy. to me this isn't normal my service rep says there should be no problems if there is no check engine light on.
Should not be as noisy with such low mileage. dealers says if there is no problem and that is the way it is they will charge me for the diagnostic fee. seems like it's not right the way it sounds so what is everybody's opinion on this issue. Oil level is up and very good so just wondering if it could be very variable valve timing solenoid making noise.
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2000 Avalon . Now when I use the key fob to lock/unlock, the outside lights do not flash. Also the park lights aren't on .
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I have a wobble in steering at 55 mph and have gone thru 2 sets of tires. After 1st set i changed front struts, no luck . When i rotate tires from rear to front it goes away for 6 months and tires start to wear wavy and wobble starts.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon. The A/C will only come on if the switch is turned to full blast, but even then it makes a really loud grinding noise and does not blow very cold air. Is this a compressor issue or blower motor? I am assuming the switch is bad since it only works on highest speed, but could it be something else causing this also?
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I have a 1997 Toyota Camry with over 200,000 miles. It is a manual: 5 speed. In the past few months it has started to idle at around 2000 RPMS, which is way too high. I took the car into a mechanic where I am currently living (Austin, TX), and they couldn't diagnose the problem, because, according to them, it didn't do it the whole time they had it. I admit, it doesn't do it all the time, but I know something is not right. It is beginning to idle high more frequently. How to diagnose this problem and to solve it!!
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The car is a manual transmission 2005 Toyota Corolla with around 90,000 miles. I'm not the only owner. The car was bought used. It appears that the car was in a front end accident that doesn't appear in a carfax report. This can be identified by the poor clearcoat paint job on the hood flaking off and the absence of the air conditioner, as well as some rather pathetic body, work with noticeable bends and a few missing screws. Most of which I consider cosmetic and irrelivant to the car's operations.
The tires are bald and the car has had an alignment about 2 years ago after I replaced the struts. I wasn't notified of any bad ball joints, but that doesn't mean thats out of the question. The car has a bit of a shake at high speeds. Sometimes the shaking is violent enough to reduce speed. I noticed that more often the shake is really bad above 60 and quite scary above 70. This isn't always the case. Sometimes the shake isn't as noticable by comparison.
At low speeds the car seems to have a wobble or repeatative hop. The steering wheel has a rythmic pattern moving back and forth a few degrees. Enough to make holding a full cup or soda not a safe choice unless the desire is to wear the drink. The wobble appears to be a little worse when the car is cold. Winter mornings seem to bring out the worst in the wobble.
I would like to do as much work on my own as possible to save $, but I realize I may need professional service equipment to diagnose some of this. Can car tires be diagnosed for having bulges with some sort of test aside from visual inspection alone? Is there a tool that can be used to verify the metal of the wheel is true and not the source of the wobble? Do wobbles and shakes derive from bad tie rods and/or ball joints? What is the most common problem that produces symptoms similar to mine?
I enjoy the car's money saving potential, but it lacks an air conditioner which is vital for defrost operations and keeping the insane summer heat tolerable. If the repairs will cost me more than the car is worth I may choose to invest that money into a 2005 model as a replacement since I've grown tired of the lack of radio and no air conditioner. I'm trying to keep 5ish years behind the curve as not to waste money on the politics of new car value depreciation.
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We have two 2000 Echos with 125,000 and 130,000 miles on them. We took my husband's Echo into the shop because it died when idling, and then it started running rough and stumbling. Also needed an alignment. They fixed it by replacing the idle sensor, the mass air flow sensor, and worked on the valve train. They said they couldn't do the alignment because the control arms needed to be replaced due to the bushings. A week before his car went into the shop, my car started running rough and stumbling. So I took it in when I picked his car up. Same diagnosis except for the idle. Is it reasonable for BOTH to need all this work at the same approx. mileage?
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When I rev the engine it momentarily goes down to below normal idling speed (sometimes it completely shuts off)then goes up to normal idle. I have found that if I press the throttle too hard before it recovers it always shuts off.
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Have the P1705 engine code (Direct Clutch Speed Circuit Fault) on 1996 Avalon.
I have removed it and trying to examine connectors and unit for problems.
Seems simpler to replace but cannot see spending the money on a crap shoot. Here is what I know:
Took voltage reading from each of the 2 connectors on the harness each with the key on but car not started. 1 probe to 1 connector and other probe to battery ground. Each connector displayed 0.76V.
Checked resistance across connectors on removed Sensor and it was 600+.
So...are these results determine whether the sensor is bad or the connector harness has an issue? Am I measuring incorrectly? Finally, is there only one of these sensors? I see on later models there are 2. Toyota P/N: 89413-08020
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I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon XLS with 134k miles, engine is a v6 (3.0). It has a rough idle and a steady misfire. You can drive it sometimes and it will run perfect and you can drive it sometimes and it will misfire. I am getting codes P1150, P0300,P0302, P0304,P0306. Driving me nuts.
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The "Check Engine Light" is on. When I brought it in for the annual inspection (NY), the diagnosis was "lean fuel mixture". The fuel filter was replaced (the car has over 110,000 miles on it), and some adjustments were made in the computer, or the sensors (I don't remember which). It was found that one adjustment was effective at low speeds, and the other one was necessary for 2000 RPM. A valve cover gasket was replaced because of an oil leak, but I don't see how this could have contributed to the problem. I drove it for about 10 miles and the light went on again. What the cause might be?
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99 Toyota Avalon, 3.6 L engine, 160k milesThe engine sends radiator fluid to the overflow reservoir but doesn't suck it back into the engine when it cools.My mechanic replaced the radiator, cap, and hoses...no change. So. he put a chemical in the radiator fluid that is supposed to form a plug to stop a leak. After ~5 months of waiting, still no plug...no change. Tomorrow, I'm bring it back to him. If he says it needs a new head gasket, do you agree? If so, what would be a reasonable cost? Also, this timing belt has 68,000 miles on, do you think I should have him replace it, too (since he is doing work on the engine)?Do you think I am foolish to put the cost of repairs into this vehicle? The rest of the vehicle is good. We've had it since 2000 and have kept up with maintenance and services.
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Our '02 Toyota Camry with 92,000 miles has been idling rough for awhile. I tried cleaning the throttle body which actually seemed like it made it worse for awhile. I do need to replace the valve cover gasket and I don't think the spark plugs have ever been replaced. Is that a good place to start?
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Just purchased a used 2008 Avalon from my uncle. The car hasn't been driven much the past few years. I'm driving across country right now from Chicago to Seattle. We are about half way through the trip and I notice that the engine has what appears to be water dripping out near the center of it. I have checked the fluid levels and everything appears to be normal. The coolient is full. I have read that it could be the AC dripping water, however, it is a relatively cool day 45 degrees F at the moment and we just had the heat on in the car. Is this something I should be concerned about?
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