Toyota - Avalon :: 2000 - A/C Making Grinding Noise And Does Not Blow Very Cold Air
Oct 19, 2015
I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon. The A/C will only come on if the switch is turned to full blast, but even then it makes a really loud grinding noise and does not blow very cold air. Is this a compressor issue or blower motor? I am assuming the switch is bad since it only works on highest speed, but could it be something else causing this also?
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Just bought a 2010 Toyota Rav4 about 2 weeks ago. It rained the other day and the brakes made a grinding noise the first time I braked after starting the car but didn't make it after that. Did it again the same day, still raining, but only the first time I braked after starting the car. I have a 30 day guarantee on the vehicle and need to know quickly if the brakes are bad or not.
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Our 05 Corolla, 160,000 miles, has started making a grinding sound when we upshift into 3rd, unless we let the rpms fall to below 1000. My husband said the clutch needed adjusting, but the dealer said this clutch is not adjustable. The dealer found nothing wrong and could not get the car to make the noise while in the shop. (It did actually get better for a while but got worse again almost immediately after the visit to the dealer.)
Our other car (a Saturn) has over 250K miles on the original clutch, so I don't think it's our driving. What could be wrong, and is this something that needs to be addressed soon lest we damage something irreparably? Also, this car has, since purchase, been nearly impossible to shift on the coldest mornings. Really, sometimes it is all I can do to get the lever in reverse to back out of the drive in winter (in Kansas). Warming up works, but it seems to take an inordinate amount of time before shifting is"normal."
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I have 2007 toyota avalon limited. Just had evaporator replaced and now AC only blows on the lowest temp. If you try to adjust temp it just switches to blowing hot. I think it might be the ac/heat actuator. I do have dual zone ac. I don't want to just start replacing parts.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla and it's making a loud grinding metallic noise on the front left side. It does it while I drive the faster I go the louder it gets. When I turn to the left it makes it louder, when I turn right the noise decreases. PG&E have been breaking the roads by where I live and there's a lot of little rocks I drive thru. I'm wondering if that's the problem?? What do I do?
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I have a 99 Toyota Tacoma 4 cylinder. Just reached 200,000 miles this past Sunday. I did a cold start this morning and there was a grinding, metallic noise from under the hood. I turned the key bafk because it didn't sound good. Turned the key again and it started like normal and ran fine. I had a new starter installed last Thursday and now I'm wondering where this noise is coming from. Before I changed my starter, I had the bad starter symptoms in the last two weeks, slow to crank over, the whining airplane noise (happened 3 times in the last 3 weeks). But now, this new grinding noise has me even more worried. Does my engine have to get used to the new starter and what other issues could this be? The battery passed the battery test at Autozone, and my alternator is fine as i unplugged the positive and negative wires from the battery while was truck was running. I really really like my truck and am trying everything in my power to keep it running as smoothly as possible.
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My 2000 Toyota Sienna has been making some concerning noises. It makes a periodic grinding noise, the period is related to the wheel speed...i.e. the noise happens once each time the wheel goes around. I can hear it while I drive, and it's even louder when I roll down the windows. The weird thing is that the noise stops when I hit either the breaks or the gas. First mechanic says that the wheel bearings are shot, and the second says they're fine. There is no "jet engine taking off" noise that I am told is typical of shot bearings, but there is a wump-wump-wump noise at higher speeds.
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My 2005 Prius is having a problem with the AC. It will only blow cold air if the temp is set at MAX COLD. Any other temp setting and it will blow hot air. Really hot air. It makes no difference what the outside or inside temps are. Is there a simple fix for this?I can control the AC by setting it on Max Cold and changing the fan speed, but I would like for it to work on the auto setting the way it is supposed to.
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The rear vents in my '09 Toyota Sienna minivan do not blow heat, only cold. The vents up front work just fine, but when I turn on the rear heater (whether from the front controls or from the rear controls), my kids get iced. They never blow heat, even after long periods of time. (Also, the upper vents in the back do not blow strong, even on High, although the lower one does). I heard something about an interior heat sensor, and about blend doors.
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I took my car in for an oil change a few months ago when I was told the belt going to my a/c compressor was missing. It must have snapped off some time in the winter. I got the belt replaced and when I go to turn on the a/c I can hear it engage but the air that comes out is no colder than just having the vent on. A friend told me I just need to recharge the refrigerant.
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My 2002 Altima A/C won't blow cold air. Took it to my mechanic who says all switches, fuses, relays, compressor clutch are OK and system has pressure, but the compressor is shot. In order to get a replacement that's guaranteed I have to get a receiver/dryer with it. Also says not to get a compressor from the salvage yard. I'm wondering if there are any other testing procedures that could be used to be certain it is the compressor....
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My drive belt broke and I replaced it with a new one and now ac wont blow cold air. It was working fine before. I can hear the compressor running but not blowing cold air.
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I have a 2000 Isuzu Rodeo with 230,000 miles. The A/C is cold when first turned on after start up, warm or cold engine. After about 5-8 minutes running on a sunny day, driving or at a stop, it starts blowing warm. If I shut the A/C off and leave it off for 30-45 seconds, it will blow cold again. On an overcast day it will blow cold for 15 minutes or more.
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2000 F250 7.3 diesel... It began doing this last summer. It will blow cold and freeze you out then it gets hot and burns you up. If you step on the gas pedal for a bit, it will go cold again. We have changed high & low pressure switches and added more freon. What else do we need to look into?
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My 2000 Echo's A/C didn't blow cold. It turns out the low side pressure was fine, but the compressor wasn't turning. I read somewhere that the A/C compressor's clutch eventually wears down so it doesn't grab the pulley anymore, and that sometimes removing spacers can move the clutch enough to allow it to grab. I took off the bolt on the compressor pulley and the spacer fell off. I put the bolt back on, and now I'm COOL!
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I recently put a cold air intake on my car and I could hear the dump when I let off of the gas. But I also put in a boost gauge but I think I had a leak in the hose going to the gauge. After I drove it for awhile the blow off valve started making a flutter noise when dumping. I fixed the leak in the hose but the flutter is still there. How do I fix the flutter? A new blow off valve? Mk4 Jetta 1.8.....
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I was driving up hill last night and the van lost power competely. The car did not die out but I could not get it to move. After it cooled down for 20 minutes or so I was able to move it another half block up hill out of the intersection I was obstructing. It then failed again. I was able to shift it into 'L' to move it to the side. I had it towed home. This morning the battery is not completely dead but the car won't turn over. Sound like the transmission?
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I have a 2000 yukon and the climate control stopped working. The defrost works just fine but the heater/ac stopped working nothing blows out from my vents when ac/heater setting is on. I checked all fuses and wires and everything is ok and connected. I just replaced my cd player and the next day climate control stopped working. I went back and checked the wireing of the cd player as well, everything is fine. Would i need a new climate control, or senser or is there a fuse on the heater itself.
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2000 Avalon . Now when I use the key fob to lock/unlock, the outside lights do not flash. Also the park lights aren't on .
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I have a used 2005 Avalon with 65,000 miles. I posted earlier that, after a sudden VVTi oil hose leak, my engine was making a loud ticking noise at certain RPM's and needs engine work to repair the lifters. So far Toyota was only willing to do the recall and not pay for the engine damage because it is 5,000 miles out of warranty.
A customer relations representative at a Toyota dealer provided me with a vehicle history, and I was shocked to see that the VVTi hose had already been replaced at 33,000 miles after the same type of oil leak.
My battle with Toyota is still ongoing and, quite frankly, I expect to lose. I am going to get the car repaired and get rid of it (at considerable loss --I cannot in good conscious sell it or trade it knowing it has engine damage without disclosing it, though my dealer had no problem with it). I will never buy another Toyota after buying 5 new ones in the last decade.
I am posting as a warning -- even though you may have had the oil line recall done, do not assume that you have nothing to worry about. If they replaced a rubber hose with another rubber hose as they did in mine, you have a ticking time bomb.
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I'm at the end of my rope! My 2005 Ford Five Hundred Limited has a constant problem with the A/C system and overheating. In the last year I've replaced the compress, expansion valve, dryer FOUR times. They have replaced the condenser, blower motor, and added Freon, and checked for leaks. It will blow cold when running fast and then blow hot. They have replaced belts pulleys, They have replaced the thermostat, fans, coolant reservoir, hoses. and it still overheats. I've taken it to 4 difference mechanics including two dealerships. No one can seem to fix this problem.
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