Toyota - Avalon :: 1997 - Brake Lights Coming On As Pedal Lost Some Spring?
Nov 24, 2015
The brake lights come on in the rear after i park the car. it appears the brake pedal is not springing back for enough to disengage the brake lights. It does not do this all the time, but seems to have start doing this at night when it gets colder. I can look outside and see my brake lights on, then go off, then come back on. It has made the battery go dead twice in the last week. is this a easy fix or something more complicated. this has nothing to do with parking brake, i normally do engage parking brake since i park on a flat surface road in front of my home.
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While hooking up some tempory trailer lights. I lost all brake lights. No fuses blown one mechanic tells me its the brake light switch. I can see it disco the wire but can't get it out to test, how it comes out. Also my vcs abs and traction lights are on. Local parts store wants 132.00 for it.
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So the other day I slammed on the brakes when traffic came to a halt on the highway. As I slammed down on the pedal, all the sudden the pedal lost pressure and went nearly to the floor, but firmed up just before bottoming out. My brake and ABS lights went on as well. Someone told me there is some kind of failsafe that blocks off the line if it ruptures, so maybe thats what happened? The brakes seem to work fine and are not loosing any more fluid, but the warning lights remain and the taillights do not light up.
So when I got home I took a look. On the fender side under the fuse box there was a lot of brake fluid, and looked like the line going from the master cylinder down to some kind of module (abs thingy?) below it was all rusted.
Today I replaced the line, and bleed the rear brakes. There did appear to be a ponhole in it, right where it would have been spraying the fender side where I saw all the fluid. The pedal is very firm right from the get go and brakes seem to be working fine. However the brake and ABS light remain, and my brake lights still dont come on when I press the pedal. Do I still have a leak somewhere or is there something else I have to do to clear the warnings and get my lights back?
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I've seen This Problem discussed about GMC models but not Toyota Avalon. Why does my '97 Avalon ABS & Track Off dash warning lights Continually flash on occasion? Also, on occasion while making a turn, my car just shuts off! So far, it's started right up without stranding me.
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Ok, so my brake lights don't come on when I hit the pedal, but the instrument cluster does. I checked the fuses and they're fine.
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My 18 year old launched the little wire spring thing that applies pressure for the brake pads on front disc brakes. Could have gone in to neighbor's yard! Actually lost one on each side. He put it all back together without one on each side. I said it would still work fine. What's the deal really? Can't be that important are they?
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05 Toyota Tacoma without traction control but has ABS. A few weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal felt mushy. I had my wife step on the brakes with the engine running. I could hear a swoosh of air coming from the rear of the engine near the firewall but more towards the passenger side. I did the following tests:
With engine off pump brake pedal and it built preassure and stayed firm.
With engine RUNNING held foot on brake and turned engine off. The brake pedal moved slowly to the floor.
Check the check valve in the brake booster and its good.
So, I replaced the Brake booster, bleed the air out of the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. Now it feels great for about the first 20min of driving but then goes soft again. and I'm still getting the swoosh of air escaping from somewhere in the same place as before.
I'm wondering if I have a vacuum leak somewhere before it goes into the brake booster? the connection is good where the vacuum hose comes from the engine to the brake booster. OR should I replaced the master cylinder?
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After replacing my brake pads and shoes I am hearing a squealing noise coming from the area near my brake pedal. This noise sometimes becomes high pitched if I depress the brake too hard. I am also losing a little bit of brake fluid if I depress the pedal hard several times. The brakes themselves function fine and have no problem stopping. When I bled the brakes today some of the fluid was black. I figured it might be air in the system but after bleeding them it is still happening. I also replaced the bleeder screws.
1997 Pontiac Sunfire 2.4L uses DOT 3 brake fluid.
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I have a 99 F150 4x4 (5.4) 173k miles. I bought the truck from family about 6 months ago and from time to time if you stepped on the brake pedal to hard (not locking up, but pretty hard) it would feel like the passenger rear tire would lock up. He said that there was an issue with the automatic adjuster on that side. Here lately the ABS light on the dash has been coming on every couple of days, of course on the next restart it's off. Could these two issues be related?
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We have a 2001 Toyota Camry with 240,000 miles on it. At the last maintenance session, the dealer told us that the funny noise coming from the steering wheel is the "clock spring behind the steering wheel". The dealer would be happy to replace it for us...
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I have a 2002 avalon XLS. In the morning the car cranks but wont start unless I press the gas pedal. After that everything was fine. But recently the problem is getting worse. The car became harder to start although it will start eventually. I have changed the Mass air flow sensor, but did not solve the problem.
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I have a 97 voyager. recently the airbag light has been coming on then off. now it is on all the time. In addition to the air bag light being on the horn and the steering wheel cruse control does not work. The fuses and relays are all good. I was wondering if the clock spring is the problem?
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I have a 2010 toyota camry that needs a parking brake adjustment. the car still stops with the transmission even if the parking brake pedal is pressed down. I changes the pads in the back and it seems to be a little better, but it's not as good as other Camry's I've been in. Where to look as far as the adjustments go? and possibly how if it's not the usual method.
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2000 Avalon . Now when I use the key fob to lock/unlock, the outside lights do not flash. Also the park lights aren't on .
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A couple months back my avalon started refusing to start, lights would come on with the key, but when i turned it, nothing but a click. after a few tries it would eventually start and run, usually for the day without issue again. After a while it got worse, and I had the battery tested. It was dead. So i replaced it. The car would still click the first couple times but start more readily then it had previously. Fast forward 2 weeks. I go to start my car, it does its clicking thing, then nothing. The whole car just dies. no lights, no clock, nothing. I gave it a minute and it came back on with dimmed lights and the antitheft system (which goes off if the battery is disconnected) goes off.
since then, i have successfully started the car 2x, but after each shut off, the clicking and no start issue returns. The battery cables are free of corrosion and its a brand new battery. I have seen issues with the starters and alternators on these cars on forums before, however with mine intermittently working, its slightly different. at least to my limited mechanical knowledge.
I have seen starter rebuild kits for fairly cheap online and alternator replacement options that look to be fairly easy with the tools that i have access to.
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1998 Toyota Avalon... I know the car has factory fog lights and when I replaced the switch to accommodate fog lights they won't turn on but the bulbs are new and I am pretty sure the wiring is factory. What should I check for and what is the relay I should be using? Also any wiring diagrams available for the fog lamps or where I can access them?
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When accelerating there is a noise that seems to come from the exhaust (can not be duplicated not in gear). This noise got louder recently, and then the noise stopped. When the noise stopped, the check engine light illuminated as well as the VCS and VCS off lights. Is there a common cause for this and/or trouble shooting steps that should be followed?
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After having rear disc pads replaced, my 2003 Toyota Avalon makes a terrible noise backing out of the driveway in the morning. I think it must be rust or something--it never happens in ultra-dry weather. It is a very loud squeaking and moaning. It only happens backing up, and it goes away after a bit of driving. Normally I would not worry about what is likely a bit of surface rust, but this is INTENSE. Like, the neighbors across the street stare at us. Should I worry about this, or just live with it since the brakes perform fine after this initial period?
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For the last two years we have been having this problem off and on. The car typically will not start in the morning but 8 hours later it will start right up with no hesitation. The engine always cranks but it will not start. Every time we have the vehicle towed to a mechanic's shop either the car starts as soon as the towing company drops off the car or first thing in the morning when they go to start looking at it. When the vehicle does start there is absolutely no hesitation and no decrease in the performance. The vehicle has never stalled on me, and I have tried pumping the gas and putting the vehicle in neutral but have been unsuccessful in figuring out this problem. The check engine light does not come on and there aren't any codes saved in the memory.
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I was using a 2004 Heritage F150 and when I connected a trailer to it something got fried. I lost both my turn signals and brake lights. The trailer worked fine on my friends truck so I don't think the issue was there but with the 4-pin round connector that was on the truck.
I found two 10A fuses blown under the hood and replaced them but that didn't work. They were in slots 19 and 20 and are listed as the camper/trailer adapter fuses. The running lights still work. The interior turn signal arrows don't even light up or anything when the turn signal is activated.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Avalon Limited. For the last three years or so I get a very loud cracking noise from the Radio, I can even turn it off and it continues or gets louder. I took it to the dealer, they think it is some of the speakers. Since are 12 speakers, not sure I want to start replacing them. I thought it might be the amplifier, took to an electronics guys. He took a lot of the car around the radio apart, we could never find the amplifier. I think the amplifier is in the trunk with the GPS Disk Player. If you were going to replace something, would be the radio, amplifier, or? The only way to stop it is to remove the fuse which causes the radio and GPS screen to not work.
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