Toyota - 4Runner :: Low Brake Pedal After New Pads And Bleeding?
Feb 5, 2015
A 2000 Toyota 4Runner was stopping fine. A mechanic informed me that the brake pads were worn down. After the pads were replaced and bled the pedal sinks lower than before and the car requires more pressure to stop. I can pump up the pedal after 3 pushes. I took it back and he has since re-bled the brakes but the pedal still sinks low.
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2014 4Runner SR5, 4k miles... It is sporadic, but here in the Midwest the weather is frigid. Is it normal for brand new pads to squeal right when I pull out of my driveway? It goes away, but I never had this with any other vehicle.
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I have my Toyota 2000 4 Runners having a slightly problem. When I paddle the brake at the Stop or traffic light, the wheel turns (mostly anti-clockwise) a little bit like 10 to 20 degrees. It doesn't turn all the time but especailly when the car is going slightly downhill such as when I paddle the brake and stop from parking lot onto the main road. The road is a little dip down or sometimes in front of the traffic light and it was slightly inclined. I don't know if this normal or not.
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Along with the many other quirks of my 98 Toyota 4Runner, whenever I have to hit the brakes suddenly and hard it takes my car at least 30 seconds to become responsive to the gas pedal. When I try to accelerate, I can hear the engine rev, but the car doesn't move. Is this a brake issue, or could it be a transmission issue? I have 230k on it.
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So I took the pads off and saw pistons that push caliper against rotor were to far out to install new pads. (rear pads were still intact, both front pads were out when i pumped) So im pumped the brakes thinking it would reset them and alls it did was push the fronts out more.. I noticed fluid leaked out of the pistons after fully pushing them out.
After seeing that pushing the pedal only pushed them out and didn't reset them, i pryed them in with a C wrench. Was quite difficult but managed to do it. Note I only did this on the front pads..
Rear was just fine, piston went back in easily. I filled brake fluid fully and still does it - Now pedal hits the floor when i first hit it and seems very light when braking.
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My son and I were coming down the mountain on I-70 near Georgetown, Colorado in a snowstorm in his toyota 4runner. We had just gone through the Eisenhower Tunnel. There was alot of traffic, and driving conditions were terrible. We were traveling approximately 10 miles per hour when my son told me that his brakes were not working. We downshifted, and then slid into the guardrail on the median (we were in the left lane). Luckily we were not hurt, and we did not hit anyone else. Once the car was towed back to Denver, the brakes worked again. My son is getting the car checked by a mechanic, but why the brakes gave out and how he can avoid that happening in the future? Was it related to the cold weather (approximate 10 degrees)? I did not feel that he was riding the brakes as we descended. The road was icy at the time.
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My 2003 Toyota 4 Runner with 104K miles recently started showing a brake light off and on. The brake fluid reservoir was at the minimum level and there was some residue leaking from the bottom near a silver disc. Took it to a mechanic and was told it was most likely the master cylinder leaking brake fluid. Is this normal wear and tear or is it unusual in this vintage vehicle? I do not notice any brake slippage at this point. Should I take this to the dealer and ask why this master cylinder is faulty? I thought Toyotas were long life vehicles?
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My car has about 180K miles on it and it's a manual transmission. It's a champ, and I love it. But sometimes when you first drive it ( not sure if it's only when the weather is cold, but I don't think so) if you are sitting at a stop with your foot on the brake then engine surges up and down, if you take your foot off the brake it stops.
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Passenger side rear brake light works when lights are off, but does not when lights are on. In looking at both lights while on, the passenger side seems to burn much dimmer than the driver side.
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05 Camry, 2.4L, 47K. Replaced the front brake pads two months ago. I put in Akebono pads and did nothing with the rotors as the original pads were not completely worn out and there is no vibration whatsoever in the pedal.
The pads have recently started making noise on brake application. I'm getting ready to take them back apart and re-lube everything. Should I take some sandpaper to the pads & rotors to knock off any glazing? Do I hit it with a course or fine grit? I have not had this problem happen in the past and was thinking that maybe it is the quality of the pads but I believe these are oem...
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I have a 2010 toyota camry that needs a parking brake adjustment. the car still stops with the transmission even if the parking brake pedal is pressed down. I changes the pads in the back and it seems to be a little better, but it's not as good as other Camry's I've been in. Where to look as far as the adjustments go? and possibly how if it's not the usual method.
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I was bleeding my brakes today and when I took off the wheel on the driver side, I found grease on my rim. I can't believe that my outer cv boot is cracked for a car with less than 57K miles.
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It is a 1994 Ranger XLT, Regular cab, two wheel drive, manual transmission and I think it has rear ABS. A front brake line blew which drain the master cylinder. Also a couple of pieces of brake line at the rear had to be replace along with the rear wheel cylinders. After installing the new brake system components we were trying to bleed the system. After reading the repair manual I had it said that vehicles with rear ABS you are to bleed the ABS module before bleeding the rest of the system. There is a module where the book described it (driver's side inside the frame rail) with brake line running to it. I am assuming this is the rear ABS module? I didn't see anything that looked like a bleeder on the module. Where to look? Also when I open the bleeders on the rear wheel cylinder no brake fluid came out.
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...Is there anything special that needs to be done for brake bleeding after putting in a new master cylinder? I decided today to flush my system with my vacuum bleeder and now my pedal slowly falls to the floor at a light...No problems in a panic stop or otherwise, just falls to the floor slowly when braking...no leaks, so I'm assuming a master cylinder is an order....
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My Sienna 2005 experience intermittent complete brake failure 3 times within 18,000 miles,the brake pedal goes to the floor and it does not slow down, so I coast until I stop. However, when I release the brake pedal and then reapply the brakes, it works fine. A non-Toyota mechanic thinks it's due to malfunction of ABS. The dealership is unable to finds error codes and brakes work fine when the Sienna is in their hands. I scared that the brakes will not work the next time I reapply the brakes.
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My brake pedal squeaks when I release it, for the last two weeks. Does this mean I need maintenance, repair, or some oil?
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Brake pedal goes to floor with no resistance first time I start in am. Rest of day all normal. Started when cold weather came. Fluid ok, no leaks seen.
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We have a 2005 Toyota Camry, had it since 30K miles/2008, now has 94K miles. Since we have owned it, the brake pedal feel has not been great, kind of mushy. It is the way this generation Camry's are. It gets driven mostly on fwy, so not much brake use. At 92K miles I changed the front pads and rotors, pads still had 30% left on them. The rotors were somewhat warped. Brake fluid has been gravity flushed every 2 years since 2008, last one in 2012.
Now, the problem is when wife drives it, twice at a lengthy red light, she has noted that the brake pedal "almost" sinks. It did not go to the floor, but the level went lower. The car did not move during this events. With the newer ABS brake systems, on all my three cars, after a full stop, I can push the pedal down further, almost close to the floor. The Camry is the same way, just with a baseline of mushy pedals. My wife only drives one of the other ones (Dodge Caravan,)and has not complained about that one.
The brake fluid level is solid/steady, no leaks at the wheels either.
Now looking at whats involved, seems I can change the master cylinder myself. The question is do I need to? I don't mind paying a mechanic to do a diagnostic too, just not sure what they are going to do. I believe, just as a defensive measure, they will go ahead and change the MC (which then I might as well do it myself). I could also continue to drive it, but don't want to be stupid here.
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My brake pedal is sticking down every time I push it in. I tried replacing the spring that was in there with a stronger one and sprayed the whole unit down with an all purpose silicon lubricant. It seemed to work a little but the problem is far from solved. It seems like it is sticking somewhere further away from the pedal. Master Cylinder maybe? I selected Tacoma because it's the closest option to my truck, but it's actually a 77 pickup/hilux.
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My 1987 toyota celica brake pedal is going to the floor when I apply the brakes but not all the time,i checked the pads and shoes they are still good i also bled the brakes, I am thinking it is the master cylinder or maybe the master cylinder needs to be bled.
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2013 Toyota Corolla... I drive it very gently. A friend drove it briefly and after that the brake felt a bit weird like the position had changed slightly or that the pedal was a bit loose. I tried touching it with my hand and realized that it moved from side to side. Touching it made it worse. I have no problems braking, the brakes work normally.
It's just that:1) When the brake itself is not in motion/stationary, the brake pedal wiggles a little.1) I can feel motion get transmitted through the brake now, like I'll feel it when the windshield wipers move or if I change from park into drive.
I'm guessing I just need to get the bolts/screws/etc tightened. Just afraid that if they work on it, they might make it worse (since touching it made it much worse), or that they might tighten the brake back into a different position than it was in before my friend drove the car.
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