Toyota - 4Runner :: ABS Light On / Loud Continuous Beeping Alarm And Brakes Non Functional
Nov 12, 2014
I experienced the sudden onset of brake failure when driving home from work . The ABS light came on and stayed on and a loud continuous beeping alarm started sounding, and my brakes became non functional. I was fortunately able to bring my car to a halt without injury to self/ car or others. My 2010 4runner has approx. 83000 miles on it, and a local Toyota Dealership has told me that the ABS sensor needs replacement, along with the rear discs, calipers and brakes, seemingly from a simultaneous failure that the service advisor does not report having seen before.
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Why the continuous beeping in reverse? Wouldn't one beep suffice? My suggestion to the engineers would be...If you must have the car do something extra electronically while backing-up, have it mute the radio speakers. My guess is that more accidents would be prevented by the forced silence, than by the distracting beeping.
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I have a 1990 Toyota 4-Runner, manual 5-speed transmission. About a week ago, while shifting gears, I heard a loud "popping" noise from the general vicinity of the clutch. I did not feel anything different in the clutch, it returned to the appropriate position and didn't feel any more or less "loose." However, after the "pop" it seemed difficult to get the vehicle into first gear and second gear, and I really had to "push" it to get it into gear, but it would not grind or anything else. Also, when shifting into reverse, it would grind loudly and be very difficult to get into reverse gear. If I turn the vehicle off, put it in reverse and then start the car, it works fine, though it seems like it "sticks" longer in reverse and takes a bit more muscle to get it out of reverse and into first again.
Additionally, when the shifter is in first gear, but the clutch is pressed, it seems as if the clutch is not disengaging entirely, because the car wants to move forward slightly when I take my foot off the brake, almost as if I'm letting my foot off the clutch a bit with it in gear. All of this has been happening pretty regularly, but the car has still been driving fine. However, today, the poor thing wouldn't start. This vehicle (like many manual transmissions) needs to have the clutch pedal pressed in order to start the vehicle. Even when I press the clutch all the way to the floor, the car won't start (and I know it is not a starter/battery issue). Given the other problems with the clutch and shifting gears, it almost feels as if the clutch was not getting disengaged all the way even when the pedal was pressed to the floor, and now that it won't start, I'm wondering what is going on. Does this model have a linkage adjuster that needs fixing? Is it something wrong with the clutch fluid? Or do I need a new clutch entirely?
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A couple months ago I bought a 2010 with the basic trim package. How to change the Beeping in reverse from continuous to "one beep". The owner's manual says that you have to take it to the dealer.
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I am the owner of a 1996 Toyota 4runner. Recently, when I bring the vehicle to a complete stop, the entire SUV shudders, almost lunges, forward. At times it feels like the brakes are trying to re-engage. Could really use some pointers on this issue.
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I have a 1991 toyota 4runner with 4wheel drive stick shift and it has been making a loud rrrrrrrrrrrr sound. It seemed like it was coming from the front right wheel or somewhere close to that area, so I checked the brake pads and rotor for rocks or any other object that might have gotten stuck. There was nothing stuck, however I did notice that the boots were ripped. So I changed both front axles and I also replaced the wheel bearing only from where the noise appears to be coming from. The noise is still there. It makes the noise sometimes, if i'm going slow or fast. Other than that, the car drives well.
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I have the 2010 Prius with 23K on the dial and over the past few days when going to use the vehicle, at the time of applying the brake pedal and pressing start, all fine, then when we attempt to move the shift leaver to D or R we are greeted with a continuous audible alarm and the display, is telling us to shift to Park with a few other words for Parking the vehicle. No other warning lights occur but we found out the car will drive or reverse with the continuous alarm and message displayed for selecting P.
Okay, put techstream on and I have no trouble codes, at all in fact which is a good thing and I can also hear the car working as normal with P engagement, neutral etc. So the only way to correct the alarm is to turn it off and try again. Any try many times indeed! So its happened to the wife and now myself. Eventually for some reason all back to normal. I've also tried variations of brake pedal application and trying to move vehicle thinking P pin locking problem but it appears to be a signal malfunction or something simple.
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If I transport my bicycle in the trunk of my 2014 ES350 with the lid tied down but not closed the alarm sounds continuously. Can I defeat the door open alarm for the trunk lid?
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1989 toyota 4runner. O2 sensor is bad and has the check engine light on. No need to spend $100+ on the sensor. Is there a way to disable it so the light goes off?
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I have a 2005 Toyota 4Runner. 355,000 miles. No problems with it until now. About 2 weeks ago Check Engine Light came on. I replaced spark plugs (they were due), checked coils and fuel injectors and still have Check Engine Light on with code P0301 (Cylinder #1 missfire).So compression tests were done and cylinder #1 had 120 psi and others 170. I suppose 120 isn't terribly bad but is significantly lower than 170.
Question 1: If I reset the check engine light (turn it off), do you think it will pass California smog test?
Question 2: What do I need to cure the problem? Engine rebuild? JDM? or retire the truck?
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My 2005 Toyota 4Runner has the 4.7 V8 and in the last week or so, the charge indicator light on the dash has been intermittent and then suddenly on always. I started searching around and pulled the batt cables and cleaned the corrosion. The charge light has remained on and when I start it up, it almost gets to operating temp and then lights, radio, heat etc. all begin to shutdown. Then the dash lights up like a Christmas tree and shortly thereafter, the tach drops to zero, the engine sputters and then dies and will not start again until I disconnect batt cables and reconnect.
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I have had no issues with this car of 120K miles until today, although my MPG has decreased to 35 MPG. The following lights came on with a loud beeping sound : Brake warning lights, malfunction indicator light, master warning light and the hybrid system warning light. These stayed on for 25 minutes and then went off. I drove 12 miles without any issues with all the lights and sounds beeping.
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I have a 1997 Toyota 4Runner SR5, 6 cylinder with 188,000 miles. I love my car, it's treated me well over the years. About 2 months ago it started stalling at stop lights, etc. Basically, any time I came to a stop and it was idling while in gear. I start it right back up and when my foot's on the gas, it doesn't stall. After 10 times or so I learned that if I took it out of gear the RPMs went up a little and it didn't stall. About 2 weeks later the "check engine" like went on so I figured, now it's time to take it somewhere. So I took it to a mechanic that I've been to before and trusted (here in San Francisco) and he said, "oh.. it's probably just an idle adjustment" so I think, great, no big deal.
After a few days he said wasn't the idle and that after testing he found that all 6 cylinders were randomly misfiring. So he needed to change the spark plugs cause they were down to a bare nub. I figured, ok, it's about time anyway. He said it could also be the ignitor?, he didn't sound 100% positive, but told me there's probably something wrong with it since it's pretty old too and that's all he could think of. So he changed all 6 spark plugs and the ingintor and the engine light was still on. It was stalling less frequently, but still randomly stalling.
He then said he was going to have his Toyota specialist friend look at it. His friend couldn't figure out what was wrong either. Then he sent to to the Toyota dealer, they checked everything they could think of, but couldn't diagnose the real cause either. Apparently they even checked the "Dynamic Balancer"? I'm not even sure my car has one of those. They might as well have told me it needed a new agonculator (totally made up word) for all I knew. So they had my car for 3 weeks and finally I said, enough is enough, these guys can't figure it out. After 3 weeks of hearing how much money they spent on other people to figure out it, I finally said, let's stop the bleeding. The car still runs and doesn't stall that much. The last thing they tried was 2 series of a fuel injection flush (decarbonize)? So they did that with not a whole lot of improvement. They also managed to run all the gas out of my car and by the time I picked it up, the fuel light was on and I took it immediately to a gas station. No joke, they burned about 1/2 tank of gas and didn't refill it.
After 3 weeks and $1000, they come up with "we don't know what's wrong, but use Premium gas and it might fix itself". In the end they told me they were down to only one misfire, cylider #4. Also, the "check engine" light is still on. Since I've gotten it back it hasn't stalled, so there's an improvement. But I'm no closer to figuring out what's wrong that's keeping the check engine light on. Needless to say, I'm not taking it back to these guys.
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I have recently had about $1620 worth of work done on my 2000 4Runner because the check engine light came on and the code was P0420.. My invoice says they replaced the exhaust pipe assembly. Now 2 weeks later the light is back on with the same code...are the 02 sensors part of the "exhaust pipe assembly" or are they now going to tell me I need a bunch (2-4) 02 sensors replaced.
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Recently the hatch on our 98 Toyota 4Runner wouldn't "click" closed- my husband had to secure it w/ a rope for the ride home. Took it to the dealer the next day where they "degunked" it. Now it latches, but the open door/hatch indicator dash light is constantly on - the repair tech said he didn't know why or what to do about it! My concern is that the battery is being drained.
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Passenger side rear brake light works when lights are off, but does not when lights are on. In looking at both lights while on, the passenger side seems to burn much dimmer than the driver side.
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Some background. I have a 1998 Toyota 4Runner V6 2WD with about 150,000 miles. A few months ago the check engine light was flashing when I am travelling over 70mph. The dealership said nothing is wrong when I asked them to look into it. But I didn't get any codes from it. I read on-line that it could be a possible misfire so I changed the plugs and wires.
A few weeks ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on. I took it to a dealership to diagnosis the problem, they came up with Mass Air Flow sensor was shot. I replaced that, and reset the computer. It still comes on and flashes at highway speeds. I bought a low end computer to read the codes.
I got P300 (Random/Multiple Misfire), P302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire) and P305 (Cylinder 5 Misfire). Cylinder 5 has the coil-pack and Cylinder 2 has the wire coming off the coil-pack for Cylinder 5. So I replaced the coil-pack. The light is still coming on and flashing. How to stop the light from flashing. It comes on only when I am travelling past 70MPH. I have tried just rev'ing the engine up to the same RPM's as I am running when doing 70, but the light doesn't flash then.
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This morning, while getting ready for work, my car's alarm sounded. I ran outside in the rain, and it was beeping and flashing, but there was no one around. I unlocked the doors, looked inside, everything looked fine. Shut her up, reset the alarm. Not 2 minutes pass and it goes off again. Same drill. This time I start the car and the MFA indicates the rear compartment is open, I check and it's not. I open it, shut it, and reset the alarm. You know what happens next, the alarm goes off.
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Apparently while I car was at the stealership for it's 45k service, the car alarm was going off crazy and wouldn't stop, so their techs disconnected the horns.
First time they delivered my car back, the horns wouldn't work- sent it back.
Second time around, porter turns off car, closes the driver door, and car alarm starts blaring, other techs and customers starting and closing their ears..
Not sure what could be going on.
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How can I eliminate the reverse beeping alarm if possible?
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I am having issues with 2015 sonata sport. My car alarm has been going off randomly as well as lights flashing/beeping as if I was pushing lock button on key fob. I am not pushing any buttons and sometimes it will happen when The key fob is in my hand and I know I'm not pressing any buttons. When it does happen the little red light will flash on the key fob. I've tried using other key fob and have same issues with both. Also I have had to change the battery in both key fobs about 8 times thus far and I've only had the car a little over a year.
It does not happen all the time and I know if I take it in, my luck the car wont do it and they will tell me they don't see anything wrong. Sometimes the buttons wont work to unlock/lock the car and after a few minutes the car will beep and lights flash on their own and I will be able to then lock/unlock car again. This is getting very frustrating and it has become an annoyance for me and I'm sure my neighbors as well. I even will have people I work with come in and tell me my alarm is going off during my work shift.
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