Toyota - 4Runner :: 2005 - Charge Indicator Light Comes On
Jan 27, 2015
My 2005 Toyota 4Runner has the 4.7 V8 and in the last week or so, the charge indicator light on the dash has been intermittent and then suddenly on always. I started searching around and pulled the batt cables and cleaned the corrosion. The charge light has remained on and when I start it up, it almost gets to operating temp and then lights, radio, heat etc. all begin to shutdown. Then the dash lights up like a Christmas tree and shortly thereafter, the tach drops to zero, the engine sputters and then dies and will not start again until I disconnect batt cables and reconnect.
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Recently the hatch on our 98 Toyota 4Runner wouldn't "click" closed- my husband had to secure it w/ a rope for the ride home. Took it to the dealer the next day where they "degunked" it. Now it latches, but the open door/hatch indicator dash light is constantly on - the repair tech said he didn't know why or what to do about it! My concern is that the battery is being drained.
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I have a 98 4 Runner the fuel light has come on, the fuel gauge itself is working fine. The low fuel indicator light stays on even on a full tank, would like to know if there is a reset button or is it attached to the fuel sending unit or is it a separate unit....
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I inhereted a prius 2005 and need some education. It has 75000 miles and the battery level stays between the green and blue mostly. I was stuck in bad traffic and as I watched the battery level sucked down rapidly - to the point that I started turning it off and on to save on the battery - is this normal? Is there some switch/button i should press in this situation? I couldn't find anything in the manual.
Also - is there some technique in driving that would charge the battery better? I have just used my first full tank of gas and my mileage was 48 miles/gallon, so I'm pretty happy. I will be driving 30 miles each way to work, mostly at 60/70 mph - but as we know, traffic jams happen.
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Recently purchased a 2005 4Runner Sport 4x4. I bought it before they had the chance to give it the once over but they agreed to do a safety inspection the next day. The car was in tip top shape so I was not concerned. As I was driving it home I noticed the car was jerking or rocking slightly as I was coming to a stop. I didn't think much of it but when they inspected the car the next day they found the driver side CV boot was leaking and needed to be replaced, which they did for free. When i dropped it off, I asked if they could look at the cause of the jerking and they said it was likely due to the CV boot and it would go away after the repair. Well it did not go away. I'm wondering what is causing this jerking and if it's worth a trip to the shop to have it fixed or worth going back to the dealer and making them fix it. Should I be concerned about safety?
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98 Ford Expedition 4.6L, 198K Miles, New Battery, Alternator replaced, but battery light still on and after a minute charge indicator drop until left indicating zero, temp gauge on top while temperature motor is cold, gas gauge drop, when lights are turned on oil light turn on also check engine both for a few of seconds.
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We have a 2005 4runner with 75,000 miles that we recently took to the dealer because the coolant level was low. Turns out we need a new timing case cover, oil gasket, and water pump.Question 1 - is this normal to happen on a 2005 4runner with 75,000Question 2 - How much is a reasonable amount to pay for this repair? Evidently, it is a laborious repair.
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1989 toyota 4runner. O2 sensor is bad and has the check engine light on. No need to spend $100+ on the sensor. Is there a way to disable it so the light goes off?
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I have a 2005 Toyota 4Runner. 355,000 miles. No problems with it until now. About 2 weeks ago Check Engine Light came on. I replaced spark plugs (they were due), checked coils and fuel injectors and still have Check Engine Light on with code P0301 (Cylinder #1 missfire).So compression tests were done and cylinder #1 had 120 psi and others 170. I suppose 120 isn't terribly bad but is significantly lower than 170.
Question 1: If I reset the check engine light (turn it off), do you think it will pass California smog test?
Question 2: What do I need to cure the problem? Engine rebuild? JDM? or retire the truck?
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I have a 1997 Toyota 4Runner SR5, 6 cylinder with 188,000 miles. I love my car, it's treated me well over the years. About 2 months ago it started stalling at stop lights, etc. Basically, any time I came to a stop and it was idling while in gear. I start it right back up and when my foot's on the gas, it doesn't stall. After 10 times or so I learned that if I took it out of gear the RPMs went up a little and it didn't stall. About 2 weeks later the "check engine" like went on so I figured, now it's time to take it somewhere. So I took it to a mechanic that I've been to before and trusted (here in San Francisco) and he said, "oh.. it's probably just an idle adjustment" so I think, great, no big deal.
After a few days he said wasn't the idle and that after testing he found that all 6 cylinders were randomly misfiring. So he needed to change the spark plugs cause they were down to a bare nub. I figured, ok, it's about time anyway. He said it could also be the ignitor?, he didn't sound 100% positive, but told me there's probably something wrong with it since it's pretty old too and that's all he could think of. So he changed all 6 spark plugs and the ingintor and the engine light was still on. It was stalling less frequently, but still randomly stalling.
He then said he was going to have his Toyota specialist friend look at it. His friend couldn't figure out what was wrong either. Then he sent to to the Toyota dealer, they checked everything they could think of, but couldn't diagnose the real cause either. Apparently they even checked the "Dynamic Balancer"? I'm not even sure my car has one of those. They might as well have told me it needed a new agonculator (totally made up word) for all I knew. So they had my car for 3 weeks and finally I said, enough is enough, these guys can't figure it out. After 3 weeks of hearing how much money they spent on other people to figure out it, I finally said, let's stop the bleeding. The car still runs and doesn't stall that much. The last thing they tried was 2 series of a fuel injection flush (decarbonize)? So they did that with not a whole lot of improvement. They also managed to run all the gas out of my car and by the time I picked it up, the fuel light was on and I took it immediately to a gas station. No joke, they burned about 1/2 tank of gas and didn't refill it.
After 3 weeks and $1000, they come up with "we don't know what's wrong, but use Premium gas and it might fix itself". In the end they told me they were down to only one misfire, cylider #4. Also, the "check engine" light is still on. Since I've gotten it back it hasn't stalled, so there's an improvement. But I'm no closer to figuring out what's wrong that's keeping the check engine light on. Needless to say, I'm not taking it back to these guys.
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I have recently had about $1620 worth of work done on my 2000 4Runner because the check engine light came on and the code was P0420.. My invoice says they replaced the exhaust pipe assembly. Now 2 weeks later the light is back on with the same code...are the 02 sensors part of the "exhaust pipe assembly" or are they now going to tell me I need a bunch (2-4) 02 sensors replaced.
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I experienced the sudden onset of brake failure when driving home from work . The ABS light came on and stayed on and a loud continuous beeping alarm started sounding, and my brakes became non functional. I was fortunately able to bring my car to a halt without injury to self/ car or others. My 2010 4runner has approx. 83000 miles on it, and a local Toyota Dealership has told me that the ABS sensor needs replacement, along with the rear discs, calipers and brakes, seemingly from a simultaneous failure that the service advisor does not report having seen before.
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Passenger side rear brake light works when lights are off, but does not when lights are on. In looking at both lights while on, the passenger side seems to burn much dimmer than the driver side.
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Some background. I have a 1998 Toyota 4Runner V6 2WD with about 150,000 miles. A few months ago the check engine light was flashing when I am travelling over 70mph. The dealership said nothing is wrong when I asked them to look into it. But I didn't get any codes from it. I read on-line that it could be a possible misfire so I changed the plugs and wires.
A few weeks ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on. I took it to a dealership to diagnosis the problem, they came up with Mass Air Flow sensor was shot. I replaced that, and reset the computer. It still comes on and flashes at highway speeds. I bought a low end computer to read the codes.
I got P300 (Random/Multiple Misfire), P302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire) and P305 (Cylinder 5 Misfire). Cylinder 5 has the coil-pack and Cylinder 2 has the wire coming off the coil-pack for Cylinder 5. So I replaced the coil-pack. The light is still coming on and flashing. How to stop the light from flashing. It comes on only when I am travelling past 70MPH. I have tried just rev'ing the engine up to the same RPM's as I am running when doing 70, but the light doesn't flash then.
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I have a 92 4runner with v6 5speed Manual tranny it has the A.D.D hubs ,when I put it in 4wd its not going into 4wd the 4wd indicator in dash is not coming on ,that could be a bad bulb cause it doesn't come on when you turn key on.The transfer case is working all right .Its something in the front end that's not engaging .I noticed on the front diff. there is some kind of solenoid there with vacuum hoses and a electrical connection .Does this have anything to do with it not locking into 4wd?
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I have had this problem since two weeks now. Basically I have bad tail light indicator on the dash and bad brakes indicator on the dash some times and some times not. Both come on at the same and turn off at the same time. But when the dash is lit, the car wont crank. Couple of tries later (15-20mins) later the warnings are gone and car starts.
This happens every time only in two gear positions i.e Par k and Neutral. After the said time gap, the two warnings start blinking. That's when the engine will crank. And after couple of tries, the engine comes to life. I have checked all the fuses, checked the battery, alternator, tail lights for lose wires But couldn't find anything solid.
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i have camry 2000 xle and my problem is rear light indicator turn on although all rear light work ok.
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The "Service 4 WD" indicator light came on and stayed on for about 5 miles this morning. I rarely use the 4WD function usually just using it on a dirt road to make sure it gets used. Would this indicate the need for a fluid change or is something more sinister afoot?
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what's causes the "vsc/trac" warning light and "vsc off" indicator light come on and off, together with the "brake" warning light while i'm driving?
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I just bought a used Toyota Corolla 2009 LE. I found that the indicators for Low engine oil pressure warning, Charging system warning, and Malfunction/Check Engine are on when the engine switch at "On" and goes off after engine is started. Is this normal or something is wrong with the car?
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I just bought a 2008 Highlander. I'm thrilled with the quality of the vehicle so far. This model has a tire pressure monitor system which I can't seem to reset. I've set the pressure in all tires at 34psi and 44 for the spare, and the indicator light will not go out. I press the reset button and the indicator light never blinks to indicate that a reset is in progress.
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