Toyota - 4Runner :: 2000 - Engine Surging At Idle
Apr 28, 2012
I have a 2000 Toyota SR5 with a 6-cylinder engine. When I first start the car (cold start) in the morning it will run at high idle (1500-1800 rpm) for about 3-4 minutes. At this point, the idle will begin to drop, but then the engine starts to surge. It's a noticeable surge that bounces from around 900-1100 rpm. It almost seems like an electrical surge, but I don't believe that's the problem. After running the car for a while and it's fully warmed up to operating temperature, the surge goes away. My thoughts automatically went to the IAC (idle air control) or maybe a temp sensor?
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My car has about 180K miles on it and it's a manual transmission. It's a champ, and I love it. But sometimes when you first drive it ( not sure if it's only when the weather is cold, but I don't think so) if you are sitting at a stop with your foot on the brake then engine surges up and down, if you take your foot off the brake it stops.
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We have a 1999 4Runner with the V6 engine, auto tranny, and 230k miles. For going on a year now the engine will occasionally stall when at idle…usually happening at stop lights. The engine starts right back up. This may occur once every other month or once a week for several weeks. Stalling has occurred with warm engine and cold engine, during raining/damp period and when dry. Never has the check engine light come on or has it generated fault codes. Dealer can’t find anything wrong. We’ve replaced Air Idle Control Sensor (OEM), Throttle Position Sensor, Mass Airflow Sensor, and cleaned the throttle body. Plug wires and timing belt were replaced a couple of years ago. Other than this one issue it runs great. What to try next.
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My truck is a 2000 model 2wd with the 5.4 engine. It has about 234000 miles on it. It suddenly started surging last night rpm jumping around approximately 4-600rpms each time. I noticed that once I got up around 50mph it would smooth out...
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I have a 2000 toyota 4runner and the key will not turn in the ignition.We bought a new key from the dealer and also tried wd-40 in the ignition, still no luck.
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My 2000 4x4 4runner just after it starts up tends to have a funky idle. It rarely goes above 2000 rpm but it ranges from 300-1500 when idling after start. Also when I drive home from work it tries to idle as low as it can then if I don't rev the engine it usually dies in the middle of traffic. Once it's going it's fine though. I've already cleaned the IAC and the Mass airflow sensor. Maybe one needs to be replaced or just a tune up?
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My 2000 4Runner will start slipping just after acceleration from a stop only after having driven it for about 5 minutes. I really don't think it's anything major because I've always been nice to the transmission and don't drive like a wild child.
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I have a 2000 Toyota 4 Runner with 115k miles on it. While in Colorado a month ago, we were driving down a snow covered hill and some guy banged on the window telling us the right rear wheel wasn't spinning. We put it in reverse and it rolled fine that way but still didn't when we headed back in drive. I goosed it a little bit and it went "bam" and drove fine after that.
We were in 4 wheel drive at the time. Last night it happened again. I put the vehicle in drive and it wouldn't budge. I goosed it a little again and it went "bam" and drove several feet until I stopped. It froze up again for a few more minutes. It was NOT in 4 wheel drive this time. Is it time to dump this thing or get a new transmission in preparation for the inevitable?
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My 94 4Runner V6 has been acting up for over 4 months now. I've replaced the mass air flow sensor, the fuel pump, the fuel regulator, the O2 sensor, the spark plugs, spark plug wires, new distributor and rotor and last but not least the fuel line filter and dam it it's still screwed up. The spark plugs didn't show any signs of sooting or fouling in any way, I compared there color to Other used spark plugs and they looked good.
I've spent over $2000 on this 4Runner that had run perfect for almost 14 years and now I cannot even drive for 5 minutes without it bucking, hesitating, with No Power at all and eventually stalling. I also replaced the ECM or ECU with a good used one. I also cleaned the air intake and throttle body and cleaned and reattached the ground to the battery, the ECM, the coil which shows as being good, the ground to the engine from the firewall were also inspected and cleaned. I even bought a new gas cap for the gas tank and also had the fuel injectors cleaned at the dealer and "They Said The Engine Runs Perfect When It Is Hooked Up To The Fuel Injector Cleaner" but when it's hooked up to the fuel system again it acts up again.
One Thing About It IS When It's Acting Up If I Turn Off The Engine, While In Neutral And Restart It It Works Good For A Few Minutes Then Starts Acting Up Again. The engine is good, there are times it works Perfect for a few hours but Eventually it will act up.
Now that the summer is on us it's acting up even more because of using the air conditioning. It use to only act up when it would be warmed up or hot and only when there is a load on the engine, like driving around normally, but now it's even acting up when it's idling after just starting it.
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I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L 72K miles, idle surging between 1500 - 2500 rpm after stopping from 50 mph, (with Code P0121) replaced TPS - No Luck . I reset the DTS error codes, ran it with a new TPS and same exact problem, Code P0121 came back, and surging continued, this happens when I decelerate from high speed- 50 mph or so and it will not go to normal idle, surges between 1500 and 2500 rpm when in park.
If I give the throttle pedal a good kick, the problem goes away, and it idles fine, nice and smooth and at normal rpm, the DTS code will clear, and stays cleared, mil light goes out. It almost seems like something is sticking, I know its not the throttle itself because when I do a live data, the TPS shows "0", if I manually push the throttle shaft closed at the throttle body, it is fully seated shut, so I know its not a sticking cable or anything. Can a sticking MAF sensor cause this? Maybe what I'll try tomorrow is rapping the throttle body with a rubber mallet while its surging, maybe something is not returning to its normal position in there.
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My car engine wont turn over. I can hear the starter going when I turn the key but the engine wont start. My battery is old and when I read volt meter in my car the line is right in the middle. When I tried getting jump started by a friend the engine still wont turn over. I'm wondering if this is due to a bad battery that drained because of cold weather or something else. 1995 Toyota 4runner 251,900 miles...
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It is a 1999 Toyota 4 runner SR5, not sure when last changed out fluid and filter. Why would my engine vibrate at 52mph and above? Once I take my foot off rthe gas it stops untl i press gas pedal again. I have had the front end alignment done and the tires checked.
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1989 toyota 4runner. O2 sensor is bad and has the check engine light on. No need to spend $100+ on the sensor. Is there a way to disable it so the light goes off?
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I have a 2005 Toyota 4Runner. 355,000 miles. No problems with it until now. About 2 weeks ago Check Engine Light came on. I replaced spark plugs (they were due), checked coils and fuel injectors and still have Check Engine Light on with code P0301 (Cylinder #1 missfire).So compression tests were done and cylinder #1 had 120 psi and others 170. I suppose 120 isn't terribly bad but is significantly lower than 170.
Question 1: If I reset the check engine light (turn it off), do you think it will pass California smog test?
Question 2: What do I need to cure the problem? Engine rebuild? JDM? or retire the truck?
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My 2000 Toyota Corolla is making a knocking sound that gets worse when the car is in idle and in drive. I have a feeling that it is dying, but is it unsafe?
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89 4Runner, V6 having trouble on the start up. Seems worse on the cold start after the engine has been left idle overnight or after my shift at work. I just re-cleaned my connection to my positive post and it's nice and tidy lots of spark on the meter guage but when I go to turn it over just a click. Both the box inside the cab by the front quarter and outside I can hear clicking but just a single click no solenoid for the starter tapping away. Every once in a while it will start to pick up but it seems it's got no power and then nothing back to the single click. It's even hard to jump start at this point.
Could this be the start of my starter going? The bushings going? After I get it going and drive around to where I have to and try a restart it seems to pick up just fine.
I am due to have my timing belt and cam seals done soon could this have any effect? I just had my distributer cap and rotor done and new plugs.
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My 2001 BMW 325Ci has an occasional "surging" idle problem. When coming to a stop or at idle, the engine will rev between 500 and 1000 rpm's. Sometimes it will correct the problem and idle normally, or keeps surging until it eventually stalls. When restarted it works fine. Tried fuel injector treatment, fuel stabilizer treatment, and replaced thermostat. Still surges about 50% of the time. Had it to a dealer, and computer says its running fine.
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I have recently had about $1620 worth of work done on my 2000 4Runner because the check engine light came on and the code was P0420.. My invoice says they replaced the exhaust pipe assembly. Now 2 weeks later the light is back on with the same code...are the 02 sensors part of the "exhaust pipe assembly" or are they now going to tell me I need a bunch (2-4) 02 sensors replaced.
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So, I have 100K miles on a 2007 4Runner (V6) and after having my radiator flushed at the Toyota dealership service dept, I get my car back and now hear a low rumbling noise coming from the engine compartment. I hear this noise every time I turn on the air conditioner, and sometimes even when it's off.
I took my car to Toyota today and after getting the service advisor to acknowledge the noise, I get a call 2 hours later saying, a) that no noise was identified by the technician; b) nothing wrong with my car; and c) I can come pick it up.
It ain't my imagination. Clearly, something is wrong. What it is? Should I take it to another service department? This kind of thing makes me crazy!
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I have a 2001 toyota 4runner 6-cylinder 3.4L engine with about 197xxx miles on it. I just took it in for an oil change a few weeks ago and when they checked all the other fluids in the truck they said the coolant seems sludgy and dark. Also the check engine light and vsc trac and vsc off lights came on, a week or so before the oil change. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and do almost all my work myself with the limit of the tools i have, but i can't seem to figure out what is causing this.
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I have a 1998 Crown Vic Lx with 66,000 miles on it. We bought the car about 2 years ago and at that time it had only 32,000 original miles and looked like it had just rolled off the showroom floor. The car was well maintained and we have kept it that way. Over the last few months we have started to have a problem with the engine surging at idle when the Heating/air controls are in use. It's like the engine tries to die and then comes back up and it happens about every 5 seconds. It stops when the control is cut off. The fan speed control has no effect,just the main control.
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