Toyota - 4Runner :: 1991 - Leak From Above The Oil Pan In The Front
Jun 14, 2014
My Toyota is leaking oil from above the oil pan, in the front. I think it is we're the crank shaft plate is. Do I have to pull the engine to replace the gasket
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I have a 1991 toyota 4runner with 4wheel drive stick shift and it has been making a loud rrrrrrrrrrrr sound. It seemed like it was coming from the front right wheel or somewhere close to that area, so I checked the brake pads and rotor for rocks or any other object that might have gotten stuck. There was nothing stuck, however I did notice that the boots were ripped. So I changed both front axles and I also replaced the wheel bearing only from where the noise appears to be coming from. The noise is still there. It makes the noise sometimes, if i'm going slow or fast. Other than that, the car drives well.
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My 91 4 runner, with 192k miles, has very scarily lost power twice on the highway. She gets to about 50mph and then drops to 40, 30, 20 rapidly. First time I had her towed because I didn't want to take the chance I couldn't arrive safely at mechanic. 2nd time, I just sat for awhile with her running, and tried and succeeded to get her to mechanic. First time, mechanic thought there was some boot loose around the fuel line.Second time, mechanic is stumped.
She has new fuel & air filter (and battery + leads); catalytic converter tested fine. Had a tuneup less than 5k miles ago.While I feel safe driving around town, I am terrified of highway driving and need getting it fixed so I can resume highway driving.
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My 2004 Toyota 4-Runner leaks in the driver floorboard every time it rains. I am at a loss as to why?
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I have a '91 Camry that's my daily 50 mile round trip commute car. It runs well and still has lots of pep at 156,000. There are oil and tranny leaks (tranny leaks around the pan seal) but I check the levels and keep everything topped off. Tranny fluid and filter were changed about 20K miles ago. I am the original owner. Shifting is OK unless I accelerate hard, then it "bumps" into gear. On hard acceleration it is a pretty good bump but if I back off the gas it shifts much better. There are no other symptoms, at lower speeds it shifts fine unless the A/C is on, then I get bumps above the 1-2 shift. What the problem is?
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I have a 2011Toyota 4Runner with ICON Stage 1 and Light Racing UCAs-I got about 65K on the truck and about 35K on this kit.
Over the last month or so, I started hearing a clicking/clunking noise coming from the front end (passenger side from what I can tell) while going over small bumps in the road. Now here is the strange part, I do not hear it first thing after I start driving but perhaps 5-10 minutes into the drive, I begin hearing the sounds. Here is another strange part; the sounds cannot be replicated if I am driving over a speed bump and I have tested many speedbumps to test that theory. The clicking sound can only be heard as I am driving down the road and any minor imperfection or bump will cause the clicking. I also can feel some feedback in the steering wheel every time I hear the clicking noise. Standing still, if I turn the steering full right or left, I cannot replicate the sound. The only way I can replicate is by the right wheel contacting any tiny bump or imperfection.
So here's what I have done so far. 1)As I was getting my 60K service at the dealer, I asked them to check it out and they just blew it off blaming the aftermarket suspension.2)A few days later, I took it to firestone (yeah I know) and asked them to check it out - They checked out the suspension and everything else and claim all seems good. 3)I am in South Florida (Miami) right now and found out about Karnage Motorsports. They have a very good reputation and were very professional. They checked out the ICON kit as well as suspension and steering but did not find anything wrong either. As a matter of fact, initially they couldn't hear the sound but after I drove the car for 10-15 minutes and took it back to them, they sound came back and they did notice the clicking noise from inside the cabin and even when he was walking alongside the car on the front passenger side.
So to sum it up, the clicking noise comes after the car has been driven for 5+ minutes and it is coming from the front right side. The noise is made as I am driving down the road over any small bump/imperfection and it's quite noticeable. I can also feel some feedback in the steering. 3 separate places have checked out the vehicle but no one seems to be able to find the issue but the guys at Karnage did hear the sound (he is going to ask around to see if he can find something).
I am just about done and I am at a point where I just want to get rid of the vehicle since I am not sure if something is going to collapse on me on the interstate at 70mph.
It only has 65000 miles so I do not want to get rid of it....
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It seems to be coming from the front passenger side wheel well area. It's only present during braking and coming to a stop. Seems to be also related to wheel speed. The brake performance doesn't seem to be impacted but it's very embarrassing creaking through a parking lot. The noise doesn't seem to be present on a cold start but once the brakes warm up it really comes to life.
I noticed with both wheels up off the ground that the front passenger side wheel (The side making noise) had more resistance than the drivers side when trying to spin. [URL]...............................
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There is a clicking sound coming from the front passenger side of my dash. I have narrowed it down to being a problem with the Air Outlet Servo Sub Assembly. How should I go about correcting this dilemma? If I choose the option to waste another perfectly good weekend on taking apart my only means of transportation (except for my bicycle), how should I go about doing this to avoid creating anymore havic on what seems to be a perfectly good car?
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we have just pulled out head resurfaced and put engine back together now it won't start tried the timing and checked for fuel but wont start the only way it starts now is with brake fluid in the intake but that only fires up and won't stay idle.
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I have a 91 4Runner SR5 V6 3.0L that has been a great truck (like all of them?) until just recently.
Symptoms are bogging at roughly 25 mph or 2500 rpm in second to third gear. It will also sometimes not take off from a stop at a slight incline. By hammering the throttle down and forcing a downshift, the truck will rev up and then accelerate, but then again sometimes bog down until the same "forced shift" is done.
This seems prevalent when the engine is hot, however, that may be coincidental with the high temps here in So Texas lately. The truck does seem to run fine for a while after starting it. Mechanic hasn't isolated anything.
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'91 4Runner, V6, 3.0, 113K miles. It has a nasty bog on takeoff, doesn't seem to clear out until over 35 mph on flat ground, and you can forget about starting from a dead stop going up any sort of incline.
It still has the stock plugs, so I figured those were up for changing anyway. While I was at the shop, I went ahead and picked up a new air and fuel filter. I decided to try one thing at a time, started with plugs, got em in fine, took it around the block, wouldn't idle, sputtered pretty bad, stalled at every stop sign.
I figured that the fuel filter was in fact clogged, and maybe the new plugs were causing it to starve for gas? Crawled under the car, and the cat converter was cherry red hot. I put in maybe half a mile, so could that be my problem? It has begun to rain, so I have not installed the fuel filter. I've heard some stuff about sensors going bad, namely the CTS, but that is getting a bit in over my head.
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The differential inside the trans. of my 91 Corolla 1.6L with 175K grenaded as I was cruising down the highway. Just heard a loud "thunk" and the front wheels locked up. The stock trans is a three speed A131L hooked up to the AE92. The engine still has a lot of life left in it so I will be putting a new transmission in it. This 6th generation Corolla was availabe with a four speed trans. Can I replace it with a four speed trans? I can get the shifter out of a recycling yard but don't know if anything else needs changed-out.
I'd like to get a re-manufactured trans as who knows how the previous owner took care of their transmission if I pulled one out of the bone yard. I'd hate to put in a trans only to have to re-do the job three months later. Are there any reputable transmission re-builders you would recommend? I'm in the Tampa area and am willing to go anywhere in the state for a known good trans.
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My Toyota Camry (2000) has recently developed a small leak on the front passenger side of the car. The water seems to be coming in from the bottom of the front door about two inches from the door hinges since I can clearly see a water stain there. My mechanic has tried to locate the leak and he seems to think that it may be the windshield. He claims that he hosed it down and he thinks it is the windshield. To repair it he suggested that I will have to re install the windshield. How can I be sure of this?
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I have a 2009 toyota camry le 4 cyl with 170000 miles. I had my rear main seal replaced because there was an oil leak. Now after I got it back from the shop, there is a oil leak near the front motor mount and my engine had gotten louder when i accelerate. also it smells like paint or something inside my car. what did the shop do?
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I took my 2003 4Runner to the dealer and they sent pictures to toyota. I asked that the customer service rep contact me next time he was in the area. Toyota replaced the frame with me paying a 2500.00 deductible. Now I still have the car and will wait for the recall/class action suit that someone will file to get reimbursed. I hear it was due to the frames being dipped in Alabama.
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I've got a friend with a 1990 Toyota 4Runner Manual transmission with ~170k miles on the clock. He's been having an issue for quite some time that he hasn't been able to be resolved. Basically he's got an issue with the vehicle erratically NOT starting when it is hot outside. The vehicle starts fine when it is cold outside, but when it is hot he erratically (only happens sometimes) get a "click" noise from the engine compartment with no engine turn over or anything. He is then at the mercy of the vehicle and sometimes just has to try multiple times or wait it out for awhile and try again. Sometimes just opening the hood, looking around a minute, closing it, and re-trying is able to get it to start, but other times not. Other times, and I quote from him, "sometimes i just get really upset and stomp on the clutch, get out of the truck and just shake/rock it, sometimes that'll do it." It happens if the engine is cold or hot, it only matters that it is hot outside, above ~90 degrees. Below is a list of stuff that has been done to try and resolve the issue, but hasn't really worked.
Steps taken:
Replace Battery
Replaced the Alternator 2 years ago
Replaced the Battery Connectors (some were corroded)
Possible Starter Replacement within the past 5 years (double checking paperwork)Rewired jumper wire from battery to starter
Seems sensor or solenoid related to me, but I'm unfamiliar with this vehicle/quirks.....
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Every once in a while first thing in the morning my car will start and then die on me. It is random, but more likely to happen in damp weather and cooler weather ( cool for Florida), and when the gas is low (1/4 tank) but not consistently. I put in engine cleaner. Every mechanic I speak to says they need to see the car when it happens. This is not practical b/c it does not happen every day and only first thing in the morning.Recently, after driving 38 miles on the highway when I stop at DD for coffee and the car has been dying as I go through the drive through and the light after. Not sure if it is my imagination, but it seems to do better if I turn off the ac. The car is a '99 4Runner.
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Last night my 2007 Toyota 4Runner started up on its own. The vehicle had been completely turned off, the keys were not in the ignition, and it doesn't even have a remote start. After a little while, the vehicle then turned itself off. It continued to turn itself on and off throughout the night. What could be wrong with my SUV?
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The CEL on my 3.0l 93 4runner intermittently turns itself off and on. I have had it to a shop and got error code 25 and error code 26. (If the numbers are wrong the codes meant lean/rich mix. The first time this happened the shop replaced the O2 sensor. When the light came back on the shop said the problem was the "mass air flow (something)". The shop ordered a new MAF and after testing the new one and the old one decided the MAF was not the problem. At this point I'm just ignoring the light and driving the vehicle. The vehicle does seem to run just fine.
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Alright, need to decide between a 2000 Passat 4motion with 108k miles, no maintenance history - OR - a 1997 Toyota 4runner, all maintenance history available, 150k, new breaks, timing and water pump just done. The VW is 1k more. I should add the 4runner has zero rust, and no frame rot.
Here is why I'm having a hard time.
1. I like VW's
2. MPG / Cost for gas is actually LESS for the 4runner... no premium, 4motion nets 17mpg avg - 4runner nets 16mpg avg (I drive 50/50 city highway).
The roads where I live are HORRIBLE - 1ft deep potholes are normal in the city, and unavoidable, expansion joints rise up to 4" at times- which feels like hitting a damn log.
I wrench my own cars, I've never gone to a mechanic or dealer ever. Had a mk2 gti, mk2 jetta, mk3 vr6 gti, a mk3 cabrio, and a mk4 jetta 1.8t in my past. Ive done timing belts, CV's, wheel bearings, control arms, struts, rebuilt heads. BUT- the Passat looks to be a complete PITA to work on (insane timing belt procedure, 8 front control arms, TCM water rot issues, etc). The 4runner appears on surface- to be much easier to wrench on - I could be wrong. I do have a VAGCOM, which supports a bit on the VW.
I love VW's - but I want AWD (or true 4x4), space, and something I can actually work on. The reason for AWD is I have family near the upper peninsula of MI I would like to visit year round.
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I have a 93 4Runner, and it won't start all it will do is turn over, But won't start, my dad has tried everything we could think of It has gas, an new battery and new battery cables...
What is the location of the MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR, AND THE MAIN COMPUTER...
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