Toyota - 4Runner :: 1990 Not Starting When It Is Hot Outside
Jun 21, 2012
I've got a friend with a 1990 Toyota 4Runner Manual transmission with ~170k miles on the clock. He's been having an issue for quite some time that he hasn't been able to be resolved. Basically he's got an issue with the vehicle erratically NOT starting when it is hot outside. The vehicle starts fine when it is cold outside, but when it is hot he erratically (only happens sometimes) get a "click" noise from the engine compartment with no engine turn over or anything. He is then at the mercy of the vehicle and sometimes just has to try multiple times or wait it out for awhile and try again. Sometimes just opening the hood, looking around a minute, closing it, and re-trying is able to get it to start, but other times not. Other times, and I quote from him, "sometimes i just get really upset and stomp on the clutch, get out of the truck and just shake/rock it, sometimes that'll do it." It happens if the engine is cold or hot, it only matters that it is hot outside, above ~90 degrees. Below is a list of stuff that has been done to try and resolve the issue, but hasn't really worked.
Steps taken:
Replace Battery
Replaced the Alternator 2 years ago
Replaced the Battery Connectors (some were corroded)
Possible Starter Replacement within the past 5 years (double checking paperwork)Rewired jumper wire from battery to starter
Seems sensor or solenoid related to me, but I'm unfamiliar with this vehicle/quirks.....
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I am getting fumes in my 1990 4Runner SR5 6 cyl. I believe them to be exhaust or oil burning, not fuel. The condition does NOT exist when the windows are closed or when the fresh air vent is open or closed (recirculate).The fumes exist in the cab only when I open a window (driver side), and is mitigated some when I open the fresh air vent. This may mean that the leak is not coming through the ventilation system. What could be causing this?My mechanic says it is worn valve cover gaskets, dripping oil onto exhaust system and finding its way into the cab, it does leak oil. This may be true, but how are the fumes getting into the cabin the first place? The fumes came on suddenly, after a rear window repair at the shop - unrelated?The vehicle has been inspected by a muffler shop, no issues with the exhaust or manifold system.The fumes are inscrutable, not strong enough to easily detect, but persistent exposure gives me a headache and dizzy feeling, and then I get polluted enough, that I cannot really smell it anymore, hard to trouble shoot.Interior smells of exhaust, even when parked.?
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I have a ’90 Toyota 4Runner with a 22RE fuel injected engine having 176000 miles. Cold start is fine and idles normally. However, after it has warmed up (hot soak) it will still start right up but will run rough and die unless I give it gas to 2000 RPM and hold it there for 5 seconds or so. Then it will return and hold normal idle. There is also a strong smell of gas. Basically it floods. I have replaced the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and distributor itself then ran two cans for fuel injector cleaner through it. I also disconnected the Cold Start Injector Timer Switch thinking that was the problem. Nothing had an effect. Compression is a little low in all cylinders (expected with this mileage) but nothing drastic. One last thing I don’t know if it deserves mentioning. The muffler has something broken inside because it rattles loudly. I have not gotten to that yet.
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I have a 1990 Toyota 4-Runner, manual 5-speed transmission. About a week ago, while shifting gears, I heard a loud "popping" noise from the general vicinity of the clutch. I did not feel anything different in the clutch, it returned to the appropriate position and didn't feel any more or less "loose." However, after the "pop" it seemed difficult to get the vehicle into first gear and second gear, and I really had to "push" it to get it into gear, but it would not grind or anything else. Also, when shifting into reverse, it would grind loudly and be very difficult to get into reverse gear. If I turn the vehicle off, put it in reverse and then start the car, it works fine, though it seems like it "sticks" longer in reverse and takes a bit more muscle to get it out of reverse and into first again.
Additionally, when the shifter is in first gear, but the clutch is pressed, it seems as if the clutch is not disengaging entirely, because the car wants to move forward slightly when I take my foot off the brake, almost as if I'm letting my foot off the clutch a bit with it in gear. All of this has been happening pretty regularly, but the car has still been driving fine. However, today, the poor thing wouldn't start. This vehicle (like many manual transmissions) needs to have the clutch pedal pressed in order to start the vehicle. Even when I press the clutch all the way to the floor, the car won't start (and I know it is not a starter/battery issue). Given the other problems with the clutch and shifting gears, it almost feels as if the clutch was not getting disengaged all the way even when the pedal was pressed to the floor, and now that it won't start, I'm wondering what is going on. Does this model have a linkage adjuster that needs fixing? Is it something wrong with the clutch fluid? Or do I need a new clutch entirely?
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My 1990 Toyota 4runner won't stay running after I changed the air filter. Starts up for couple sec then dies. It ran the same morning then had problem after changing filter.
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I have an 1990 Toyota 4Runner. V6 engine. Automatic. 4wd. Today it blew an upper radiator hose. A few seconds after the initial pop of the hose and the spew of fluids the vehicle died. I replaced the upper radiator hose and the lower hose- and refilled the antifreeze. There are no leaks as of right now.
The engine will not start. The belts spin whenever the key is turned on. But the engine will not crank. You can hear the starter trying to start it up. Jumping the vehicle was of no luck. Charging the battery was of no dice.
The vehicle makes a whirring noise (belts spinning) when key is turned, but the engine does not crank at all. The noise stops as soon as you shut the key off. The oil is clean and full still.
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Just replaced the starter and battery on my old but loved 4Runner. I drove it for an hour and a half last week and couldn't restart it. Just nothing - one click I think. A friend tapped on the starter and it started...but I'm not sure whether the car just cooled down at that point. Took it to the garage and they said they couldn't find anything wrong (no surprise, right?) Now I'm afraid to take longer trips.
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What could be the cause of this? Have replaced the park/neutral safety switch and the Toyota Mechanic found loose wires on the Master Plug-In and repaired the Ignitor Connector. The computer generates no code to identify a problem. Problem still not fixed. I eventually get it to start but do not know why. Fuel pump replaced a couple of years ago.
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I have a 1990 Toyota Celica that won't seem to start after I've driven it awhile. After sitting, it takes around 4 or 5 hours for it to start again (although this is highly variable). The first start of the day is always normal. Recently it will stall at idle, then have trouble starting up. The engine seems to "try harder" to start if I press the gas.
The weird thing is that I was able to start it up easily today by popping the clutch. This has been a problem I've been struggling with for a few months, and over that time I have replaced the starter, battery, fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, and EFI/Main Engine relays. It always cranks, just no start.
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On my early 90's Corolla, when I turn the key to "on" but don't start the engine, the fuel gauge will -- for example -- read 1/4 full. It will stay at 1/4 indefinitely as long as the engine isn't running. Then when I start the engine and drive the car for a few minutes, I notice the gauge has gone up, so it will be reading 3/8 full within 5 minutes of driving. And I don't have to be moving, once it gets to 3/8, it says at 3/8 whether moving or idling at a stoplight. It has always done this, even since the car was new. It's not a problem, but I've always been curious what causes the fuel guaue to rise like this.
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I have a water leak in a 1990 4runner (3vze) at the back of the block i called the dealership and they said the headgasket had been done, i noticed this leak because the water is well orange rust colored to be exact my 4runner needs a new radiator but that's kind of self defeating until i fix the leak at the back of the engine, what it could be? or how to check if its the headgasket, the oil doesn't appear to have any water in it,i believe it's coming from above the head but there isn't much clearance between the injector plant and firewall.
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Here' the low down. I have a 90 4runner v6 4wd. It is intermittently making a loud rubbing noise in the front right of the truck. It starts randomly and sometimes stops on its own or will start when I hit a bump,it will stop when shifted into 4wd, or when I brake or turn hard to the right. but happens only a portion of the time. took it to mech, he removed front drive shaft and said prob went away, it seemed the vacuum pump or the solenoid that activates shifting out of 4wd is defective. So he manually switched off the 4wd replaced the front shaft and all good! but on my way home the noise began again. super frustrated, 3rd mechanic in a week.
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1990 ranger 2.9 ... I have put about everything new on this ranger. It has no spark, ran fine til i went across a set of railroad tracks, it died 6 months ago and never started again .. Many dollars and many hrs has gone into this thing and still no spark. It will spark when you turn the key on. Crank it and 3 more sparks and thats it. Every electrical piece has been replaced. I've checked and bought relays ,fuel shut off, new distributor pickup coil, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil and still no start?
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I took my 2003 4Runner to the dealer and they sent pictures to toyota. I asked that the customer service rep contact me next time he was in the area. Toyota replaced the frame with me paying a 2500.00 deductible. Now I still have the car and will wait for the recall/class action suit that someone will file to get reimbursed. I hear it was due to the frames being dipped in Alabama.
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Every once in a while first thing in the morning my car will start and then die on me. It is random, but more likely to happen in damp weather and cooler weather ( cool for Florida), and when the gas is low (1/4 tank) but not consistently. I put in engine cleaner. Every mechanic I speak to says they need to see the car when it happens. This is not practical b/c it does not happen every day and only first thing in the morning.Recently, after driving 38 miles on the highway when I stop at DD for coffee and the car has been dying as I go through the drive through and the light after. Not sure if it is my imagination, but it seems to do better if I turn off the ac. The car is a '99 4Runner.
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Last night my 2007 Toyota 4Runner started up on its own. The vehicle had been completely turned off, the keys were not in the ignition, and it doesn't even have a remote start. After a little while, the vehicle then turned itself off. It continued to turn itself on and off throughout the night. What could be wrong with my SUV?
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The CEL on my 3.0l 93 4runner intermittently turns itself off and on. I have had it to a shop and got error code 25 and error code 26. (If the numbers are wrong the codes meant lean/rich mix. The first time this happened the shop replaced the O2 sensor. When the light came back on the shop said the problem was the "mass air flow (something)". The shop ordered a new MAF and after testing the new one and the old one decided the MAF was not the problem. At this point I'm just ignoring the light and driving the vehicle. The vehicle does seem to run just fine.
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Alright, need to decide between a 2000 Passat 4motion with 108k miles, no maintenance history - OR - a 1997 Toyota 4runner, all maintenance history available, 150k, new breaks, timing and water pump just done. The VW is 1k more. I should add the 4runner has zero rust, and no frame rot.
Here is why I'm having a hard time.
1. I like VW's
2. MPG / Cost for gas is actually LESS for the 4runner... no premium, 4motion nets 17mpg avg - 4runner nets 16mpg avg (I drive 50/50 city highway).
The roads where I live are HORRIBLE - 1ft deep potholes are normal in the city, and unavoidable, expansion joints rise up to 4" at times- which feels like hitting a damn log.
I wrench my own cars, I've never gone to a mechanic or dealer ever. Had a mk2 gti, mk2 jetta, mk3 vr6 gti, a mk3 cabrio, and a mk4 jetta 1.8t in my past. Ive done timing belts, CV's, wheel bearings, control arms, struts, rebuilt heads. BUT- the Passat looks to be a complete PITA to work on (insane timing belt procedure, 8 front control arms, TCM water rot issues, etc). The 4runner appears on surface- to be much easier to wrench on - I could be wrong. I do have a VAGCOM, which supports a bit on the VW.
I love VW's - but I want AWD (or true 4x4), space, and something I can actually work on. The reason for AWD is I have family near the upper peninsula of MI I would like to visit year round.
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I installed a new motor in a 1990 chevy Silverado about 5 months ago. every time i start it there is a loud clunky noise which goes away after about 1 or 2 minutes.I took apart the exhaust.. why does #2 cylinder have rust on the exhaust port not black soot?
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Automatic transmissions! I have a 90 F250 4x 7.5 and E4OD. I have been chasing electrical gremlins, and I'm not sure if these problems are related or not. Symptoms: When starting off in drive, it feels very sluggish, as if it is starting in second gear. Manually putting in first works. When left in drive it will drop all the way into fourth at 20-25 mph. If left in drive, when you turn a corner and step into the throttle the trans will rapidly shift up and down causing a surging effect. Manually moving the shift down into second stops this. I have been considering swapping the PCM from an 89 7.5 E4OD parts truck I have, to see if that cures any of the problems.
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I am not the original owner of this 1990 E250 cargo van with a 302 in it. I am trying to troubleshoot this shudder I am having. It only happens when I am just starting off from a stop. Every other place the tranny runs and shifts great. I trying to find a starting point and after reading a bunch in a bunch of different places, I am confused as to the tranny I have or even had.
It has in big bold letters METRIC on the bottom of the pan. It also has Automatic Overdrive and Ford on the bottom of the pan also. It is a 14 bolt pan with the two rear corners of the pan chamfered off. I see now it is DEFINITELY the AOD installed and NOT the AODE. The thing is my steering column is labeled 1 D and OD. That is a 3 spd overdrive to me. What the heck is going on? How can I tell what the tranny was that came out of the van?
When I look under the van at the shift linkage, you can definitely tell the linkage is colored red which to me looks like somebody has been down there playing around. Is it possible to put a AOD into this van with the steering column the way it is? Could this be a reason for my early shudder at starting off from a stop? Once I put my foot in it or get moving at a quicker pace, the shudder goes away. Something is not right with the way this tranny is set up. I am not even sure where to start.
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