Toyota :: 2006 Corolla Or 2008 Versa - Which Is Better
Feb 21, 2015
I have a 2006 Corolla w/ 136K miles and a 2008 Versa w/ 81K. I'm looking to replace one of them, but am unsure which I should keep. The Corolla has been very reliable but is starting to need a lot of work (brakes/struts/etc.) and the Versa has been ok but overall has needed more maintenance.
Whichever one I keep I will probably drive until it's dead but I really don't know which I should stick with. My instinct tells me it should be the Corolla, but I don't want to keep having to sink money into a high milage vehicle. On the flip-side, I have never heard people speaking well of the Versa, and keeping it might end up costing me more and lasting a shorter time.
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I have 2006 Toyota Corolla XRS, and I can't get it to start. Last week I tried to start my car, it just turned over and wouldn't fire. I left it for a couple days, and didn't try anything. I thought the fuel line might of been frozen, because I do live in Canada. This afternoon it warmed up, so I decided to try it out. It started the first try, no problem. I drove straight to the gas station, and bought some methyl hydrate to put in the tank. I drove around a bunch that day to mix it in. After leaving it for a few hours I went and tried to start my car, and it's doing the exact same thing again. Not sure what to do here.
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In my '06 Corolla I have a 1000w Kicker DX1000.1 amp to power my subs... When I am jammin' my lights dim and I know it is because my car cannot put out enough power. If I upgrade my measly stock alternator (80 amp) to a high output alternator (~200amp) will I have any problems? Will amps kill my cars electrical system or is it volts that wreck it?
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I've a 2008 Toyota Corolla ever since I bought it back in 2007. I don't have any problem with the seat belt warning before but recently for the past months the seat belt warning keeps beeping constantly, even when I'm wearing my seat belt. I fastened every belts in the car to make it stop but it just keep going. How to get it working properly?
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Took my 2008 Corolla in for its 60,000 mile checkup. It was recommended that the front brake pads be changed as they were getting low. It is now one week later. Now the front brakes creak when coming to a full stop. I have noticed that the creaking seems to happen more on the way back home from work, and seems less pronounced in the morning.
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I was driving my car today, and I stopped at a stop sign. When I went to go, I pushed the gas, and my car revved up, moved forward, then all of a sudden it made a loud grinding noise (Like I was dragging metal sheets), and the gas stopped responding (but the engine was still running). The car still turns on, but whenever the gas is pushed, it doesn't go and makes that awful noise. What could be wrong?
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I have a check engine light on the car and in the past it has been bad gas or a vacuum leak. Dealer says on toyota that is not possible.
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I bought 2008 Corolla S 5 speed with 62K miles. Now have 135K miles. When shifting up into 3rd gear, a grinding occurs intermittently, more often as miles accumulate. I try to make sure clutch pedal is fully depressed. No problems occur with other forward gears, up or down. What the problem might be and/or what can be done to fix? This is the sixth car I have owned with manual transmission. Never a problem like this!
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I have a 2008 f350, crew cab,6.4L. with 27,173 miles. may have a problem with the steering, seems to be tight when turning from left to right or right to left, doesn't seem to center, if I turn a little to left or right it stays there. I can go in complete a circle. Raised front off ground turns ok no binding, nothing loose on the front end.
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The rattle appears as I rev the engine at a certain RPM. It happens in every gear. I had the car jacked up and the heat shields checked today when I had my tires rotated. Unfortunately for me my 2006 Toyota Corolla was NOT doing this when I was at the tire shop. I opened the hood and the sound is NOT coming from the engine. It sounds like it is coming from the middle of the car, or maybe the passenger side. I am stumped. I did all the maintenance on the car and everything.
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My 2006 would not start today after I got gas. I drove the car for an hour with no problems. I then stopped to get gas it would not start. I knew the engine was still warm because i had just stopped after driving for an hour. yet the temp gauge read cold. After a while of trying to start the car with it only cranking, not turning over I waited. After waiting a while the temp gauge started to work again showing a warm engine. The engine was also warm to the touch. I tried to start the car once the temp Gauge worked again and the car turned over with no problems and little effort.
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I have a 2006 Corolla LE with about 93,600 miles.
It was about 16 degrees Fahrenheit this morning and I drove on a cold start, and noticed the engine knock a bit when idling. Later noticed check engine light come on. After the car fully warmed up, 15 minutes later, the knocking seemed to subside.
I don't think I've replaced the spark plugs in the longest time, so could it be this issue?
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Today I turned on my car and heard a sound like water flowing down a pipe, then I started to feel the car getting warm, but no hot air coming from the vent. I felt the dash board and it felt very warm, and very warm air coming from the dashboard vent.What could cause this to happen? Its a 2006 toyota corolla LE.
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I went in today for a factor recall on my 2006 Toyota Corolla and when I was leaving I was told that my car needs to have the timing cover resealed. Additionally, the Drive belt is cracked and it was recommended to me to get a new belt. My air filter is dirty, I need manual transmission service, Fuel injection service, Fuel induction service and an AC refresh.
Being a college student I wanted to get some feedback on some of the stuff I could do myself. I already change my own motor oil and oil filter and anything I could do myself from the above recommendations from Toyota would really lower the cost.
Also I am not really sure about the timing cover reseal because I have not seen any leaks under my car. It may be that I do not understand what a timing cover leak is. And is this something that I should get fixed right away or can i afford to wait for a while (1 year or longer).
Also what is the difference between a fuel induction service and fuel injection service? Can i do it myself?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with 183,000 miles on it. My mechanic noticed that the right front strut was leaking oil. In addition to replacing it recommended getting a strut mount installed as well. Is this an necessary component at the age of my car or can just replacing the strut do the trick?
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My sonata 3.3 dies when switching from forward to reverse and vice versa. Suspecting the fuel pressure regulator. Have seen conflicting sites saying its on the firewall and some saying in-tank. What else may be causing this.
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Yesterday, I went to charge a friend's GPS in my 2008 Toyota Corolla. I discovered that a dime was stuck in the charging port (but why, by the way). I had to use a pen to carefully get the dime out, but in the process, I shorted out the car radio/CD player, clock, and the charging port. Everything else electrical works. How can I fix this problem?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla. There are two plastic covers on the undercarriage of the vehicle in the front.. The front driver's side is loose; the oil change told me the little clips are broken and they used a "strap" to hook it back up. Well, on the Fla turnpike, the strap lasted about 30 minutes
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My 2006 Toyota Corolla will suddenly decelerate for a period of 3 to 5 seconds. No warning lights come on and the engine does not cut out. This has been happening sporadically for about 2 years. It will occur 2 ot 3 times in a day of driving. The dealership says they cannot diagnose the problem since they can't duplicate it. The ECM was replaced several months ago. The car has 120000 miles on it. I just got a new battery and transmission fluid.
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The problem began a year ago when the car would randomly lose power while hubby was driving it, and then regain power almost immediately and continue to move forward. Weird. Fast forward a year and the problem is happening more frequently. Couple that with the car taking a lonnnnng time to start up in the morning. One day, it ceases to start altogether. Had a mechanic friend of ours look at it and tell us we need a new fuel pump. Okay, no problem. We paid him for the pump and he installed it. Before I could dance a victory dance, though, as hubby turned the key....the car still won't start. Mechanic buddy takes another look at the car and said the ECM is cracked and needs replacement. Looked it up online and ECM is covered under safety recall. Had car towed to the dealership, waited 2 weeks on ECM replacement, dealer called us up to let us know that....the car still won't start, and looks like we need a new fuel pump.
Mechanic friend took another look at it and said it looks like a bad connection between the pump and made an adjustment to it. The car works! Sort of. Car starts acting funny again. We're driving along and the car is losing/gaining/losing/gaining power, tachometer goes up and down, we hear a funny clicking coming from the dash area every time the car loses power. Last night, the car just refused to start. This morning, it started. After several attempts. Made that fun "verr-verr-verr-verr-verr-verr" sound without the "-rooom" at the end. Since my knowledge of fuel pumps and their casings, ECMs, and the like are limited to this situation, I'd love to know what's REALLY going on with the car. I have a suspicion that it goes beyond the fuel pump situation, but mechanic friend thinks it is the casing or something like that.
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The check-engine light on my 2006 Toyota Corolla came on a couple of weeks ago after I started the car on a 7-degree F morning. Code was P-0171. Mechanic cleaned the MAF and the light went off. Light stayed off 'til I started the car on another 7-degree F morning. Mechanic said that the MAF didn't look dirty, and the readings didn't change after cleaning. No vacuum leaks. O2 sensors responding normally. What's going on? I travel a lot in this car, so I don't want to damage the car by ignoring the check-engine light.
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