Toyota :: 1999 - Grinding Noise On Cold Start
Nov 10, 2015
I have a 99 Toyota Tacoma 4 cylinder. Just reached 200,000 miles this past Sunday. I did a cold start this morning and there was a grinding, metallic noise from under the hood. I turned the key bafk because it didn't sound good. Turned the key again and it started like normal and ran fine. I had a new starter installed last Thursday and now I'm wondering where this noise is coming from. Before I changed my starter, I had the bad starter symptoms in the last two weeks, slow to crank over, the whining airplane noise (happened 3 times in the last 3 weeks). But now, this new grinding noise has me even more worried. Does my engine have to get used to the new starter and what other issues could this be? The battery passed the battery test at Autozone, and my alternator is fine as i unplugged the positive and negative wires from the battery while was truck was running. I really really like my truck and am trying everything in my power to keep it running as smoothly as possible.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon. The A/C will only come on if the switch is turned to full blast, but even then it makes a really loud grinding noise and does not blow very cold air. Is this a compressor issue or blower motor? I am assuming the switch is bad since it only works on highest speed, but could it be something else causing this also?
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I just purchased a 2012 CC-R 2.0T Manual. One issue I'm having is during a cold start, the engine makes a very loud noise that doesn't resemble a higher rpm that usually comes with a warm up stage. It sounds like something is grinding, followed by a vacuum/sucking noise. It lasts about 20sec and then idles normally. It only happens during cold start.
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When I start my car (usually a cold start) I hear a TERRIBLE grinding-like noise. Other times it sounds like a shuffling noise. And then other times it's like its over-exerting itself trying to start up. I've taken it to the dealer many times as it's a 2014 Corolla. They have no answers. The claim it's just a characteristic of the car. I call bull. This isn't normal for any car. My car has a CVT transmission by the way. Could it be the starter? Spark plugs? Note: the noise is about 1000x worse in winter. Audio is attached in separate comment.
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I recently had TSB 0146-10 ( grinding noise at cold start ) performed and my cold starts are even louder now. My dealer screwed it up 2 times and I have to return again due to this noise, leaking valve covers, and lots of metal filings found in oil and filter? It seems to me Toyota has a big issue with the VVT cam gear on this engine and wanted to post a video of my cold start?
My vehicle is a 2010 RAV4 with the 2AR-FE ( 2.5 ltr ).
This is after 2 cam gear replacements and the dealer confirmed this to be the sound of a bad VVT gear.
YouTube
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So we have had problems with the starter (and flywheel?) since we acquired the truck, these problems being that when we would go to start the car, it would make a horrible "grinding" noise a few times, but would eventually start up. Recently, the car would not start at all, and made no noise when the key was turned. Called AAA, they gave us a jump, and the truck started again. Assuming the problem was then with the battery, we replaced it as well as both terminals. The truck would still not start after doing this, no noise at all when key turned. My questions then would be, if the battery is not the problem, why did the truck start after we had a jump? I'm thinking it might be the starter, and if the starter was shot, would the truck have no sign of life when the ignition was turned on? Should i try and change the starter or is there possibly another variable? 1986 auto Toyota Pickup....
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Noise question. I have a 2011 super duty f250 xlt, and my question is I have a grinding noise that does not sound metallic and only shows up when its below freezing, only in drive and for about 50 yards.
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It was having trouble turning over for a few weeks, getting progressively worse, but we just didn't have time to look it over. Well, it finally died--now if I turn the key a couple times we got a grinding noise but mostly just nothing at all. The lights, radio, etc all turn on though so we were sure it wasn't the battery. Thinking it was the starter, we pulled that out and took it down to Advanced Auto Parts, but they ran a test on it and said it was still good. So we put that back in the car and brought them the battery instead--they tested it and said it was charging and holding voltage but not amperage, and that, that would mean the lights and things could come on but it wouldn't have enough kick to actually start the car.
So, we bought a new battery, went home, and popped it in. Still, nothing. My friend says it's not the alternator because with a fully charged battery the car would start even if the alternator wasn't right (and would just die in a couple days, at which point you'd know you needed to replace the alternator) and my car's still not starting. The last thing we tried before we gave up for the moment last night was checking fuses in the driver's side of the car and also under the hood, the handful we thought could be related to the starter, alternator, and/or battery, but they all looked good.
The only other thing I read about online with Infinitis was that if the security system was activated it wouldn't start, however, while I noticed the light for it is flashing which I'm not sure if that was normal before or not, I THINK if it is activated it would be solid red, and at any rate, I tried what I read online to unlock it (put key forward for 5 seconds, then off, repeat 2 more times, then try to start) and that didn't do anything either.
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I've got a '99 Teg LS auto trans with 67k miles. When I start it cold, there is some valvetrain clatter that quiets out after a few minutes. I'm thinking this is due to some sticking valve lifters but I don't know this engine very well.
Does the 18b engine have hydraulic lifters?
I've also seen on other forums that the noise could be due to a worn distributor bearing, but with this low miles I find it hard to believe. Or it could be both.
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I have a 1999 BMW 3 series, 112K, 5 speed, immaculate condition, only full synthetic oil used. After a cold start - even today at 55 degrees - I get a strange noise from the engine compartment which gets louder according to RPMs. The BMW dealer replaced the oil separator for the motor ventilator and some of the respective hoses and valves associated with it. They also checked the oil pressure when the motor was hot and cold and advised it's fine; however, the noise is still there. (A different BMW dealer service advisor said, just after hearing it, it was an oil pump issue.)
On an unrelated note, when the motor is warm and I'm in stop and go traffic, the idle speed will sometimes go up and down (500 RPM - 900 RPM), and when it reaches 500 or so RPM, it dies. The car always starts back-up right away. Spark plugs are new and I used OEM BMW spark plugs. My thoughts are the idle air control valve.
Otherwise, the car is great; yesterday I took it on a 250 mile RT highway trip without any problems.
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Think i have an exhaust leak in a 1999 s10 blazer lt 4x4 4 door. the loudest spot where i can hear the exhaust noise at cold start and idle, is the passenger side right behind the front tire. on cold mornings where you can see the exhaust smoke prior to warming up i cannot see anything coming from this area. non mechanic types have suggested either the y pipe, or where the y pipe meets the header. Would both have to be replaced to fix this problem if this is the case? and how intensive is this to fix? meaning would the whole motor have to be pulled to remove the entire exhaust piping to have it brazed? my dad is a mechanic, so the tools I've got and his know-how, just need to know what to do? Any definitive way to tell where an exhaust leak is, beyond having a friend cup their hand over the tail pipe, while they look for it..
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We got a 15 F150 yay for her but I got stuck with her 113k.
So the engine makes a chain grinding sound on cold start ups and the tranny is slipping pretty hard.
Can I swap a 2.4 with a 5spd without doing a bunch of wiring?
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I just had new pads(ceramics, not sure of the brand) all around and new front rotors installed from a local shop that I trust. When braking while cold, there is a grinding sound and feel, I took the car back to the shop, they've acknowledged the issue, double checked their work, and are willing to replace the pads if it continues, which it has. Is there a break in period for ceramics, should I specify a different type of pad.
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Need to determine the noise before I took the vehicle in to be serviced. I don't know if I would necessarily describe this as grinding...to me it doesn't sound like metal on metal..but it's not normal.
Only happens on a cold startup, and even then it hasn't been 100% of the time...probably 80% of the time though.
2007 Hyundai Sonata - Startup Noise - YouTube
I found this thread, Grinding Sound On Statup but not sure it's the same issue. This just started. Vehicle has 150K miles on it.
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I have a 2008 manual transmission toyota tacoma about 50k miles. I am in vegas for the summer and since being here in the last couple weeks when I just start driving and go from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a grinding sound. Also a little bit when in 3rd gear. After the first couple minutes of driving it doesnt do that at all. What it may be or what I can do to alleviate the problem without a shop selling me a new transmission.
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My 2009 Toyota Corolla has started to make a grinding noise when starting. The sound is identical to when you try to start an idling car. What the problem is?
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2000 Acura Integra 98k miles. Around 90k timing belt, water pump and all sealants were done - and valve adjustment.
Since then I thought that there is a minor loss of coolant - also heard some grinding sound at cold start.
Today in calif, weather is under freezing. I saw handful of coolant under the car where the water pump is. The reserve tank is almost empty - at 95k coolant was topped up.
I went to another mechanic and he wanted to bring the car next week - he will try pressure test - if it is minor leak, it might not work he said - will do other tests. Didn't say the price. Not sure what the fee is for diagnostic.
What are some practical tips? This is the first car now and plan on keeping it. Given it is been about 2yrs with the timing belt job, I am not sure if I have any recourse. Credit card companies only take care if it is within 2 yrs.
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01 Passat v6 150K tiptronic. When cold, the tranny makes an occasional grinding noise however when at operating temp it runs fine with no slippage. Changed the fluid/filter and added lucas treatment. It worked a little but my mech said to warm up the car before driving. Might be the torque converter?
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I have been doing some research on why my 6sp MT makes a weird almost "Plastic Grinding" noise when shifting from 1st to second on cold days when it sits overnight. It has been getting under 40 degree that last couple days and it seems to go away after just a few minutes of driving. It only happens from 1st to 2nd. I have been told its normal and just because the trans fluid is thicker when cold.
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My G1 prius (2001) started making a grinding noise when I start it up in the morning. There are no warning lights (yet) and it drives fine, but that noise can't be good -- something will fail shortly. I've searched the internet quite thoroughly and there was one similar problem reported, which ended up being linked to the ABS pump. The noise seems to come from the inverter, or somewhere under the inverter. I took a video of it and posted it here.
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I drive a 2004 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 and wound up doing a bit of unexpected rock crawling on a recent camping trip. After a whole lot of cussing and praying I got out with a couple of dents. Since then, I started to notice a strange noise. When I shift from 2nd to 3rd (~2500 rpm) and start to accelerate, I hear a metallic grinding/pinging for roughly a second. The clutch is fully released and it happens whether or not the engine is hot. It's the 2.7 liter 4 cylinder.
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