Toyota :: 1993 MR2 Turbo Chugging On Cold Starts
Apr 29, 2012
I have a 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo with about 150,000 miles on it. For the past several years on a cold start (it doesn't seem to matter what the outside temperature is, just that the car has sat for a long time, like overnight), if I try to drive away immediately the car will chug. It almost feels like the car is choking or is not firing. It happens mostly on acceleration above 2500 rpm and in 2nd and 3rd gears, getting worse as you go higher in the gears.
After a few minutes the problem goes away and the car will run fine. Also, if I start the car and let it idle for 5-6 minutes it seems like the car will run fine without the chugging.
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I've been getting some grayish/blueish smoke on cold starts lately and decided to do some investigation to see if there was a problem or just the cold temps.
I googled it and turbo oil seal problem was pretty common so I figured it was easiest to start there. I removed the pipe between turbo and CAC and it had quite a bit of oil it in. The pipe after the CAC had a fair amount as well. I checked the oil level in the engine and it was slightly down but I can't say how accurate the dipstick is nor it was completely full after the last oil change. Either way, not much oil is entering the intake but I would assume any is too much.
Here's my main concern - What's the likelihood of getting a runaway from this?? Is it possible for the oil seal to fail 'more' than it already has putting more oil in the intake allowing for a runaway condition?
Obviously the turbo needs replaced but is it safe to run it the way it is until it completely fails or replace immediately?
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I've got this 96 neon. I can drive it to work and almost exactly 10 miles into the trip everyday I notice a subtle chug. Then it gets worst and within a couple of miles it chugs progressively worse until it dies. I pull over to the side of the road for 5-10 minutes. Then I can start it back up and run down the road another 3-5 miles before it happens again. I've changed the computer, coil, cam positioning sensor, O2 sensor, gutted the cat, changed plugs and wires. I'm to the end of my rope with this car. The codes that its throwing are no dice.
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I own a 1996 Toyota Celica. When the car is cold it starts and run for about 5 minutes then dies. When I try to start the car, with the key in the 'on' position, I have no check engine light. If I crank the engine and release the key to the 'run' position, the 'check engine' light turns on. When the car is cold or I leave it to rest for a couple hours and I turn the key on the 'check engine' light turns on. it is after the car stalls out i have this problem. At this point if I spray some starter fluid into the intake the car attempts to start. I thought that it was the pump so I installed a new one. Fuel pressure is good. It seems to me that the injectors are not working.
Is it the computer? Given that fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors are not firing, Given that I have ignition since when I spray starter fluid into the intake the car fires up and runs until it runs out of starter fluid. Where do I start? I have not used a noid light as yet to check the injector harness and as you all know the harness is a little difficult to get at because of its location under the intake.
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I have a 2002 Toyota camry that smokes on cold starts. No oil is being consumed because I check frequently. What could be causing this white smoke which lasts about 10-15 seconds?
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1997 Chevy C2500 silverado... Ok, so when i go to turn my truck on she'll sit there and chug as it starts. usually a few seconds and then roars up just fine. However I've noticed a couple of distinct things. 1. when it does start i see a second or three of black exhaust come from the tail pipe. 2. if its been started recently. IE within 24 hrs it has problems. but if i leave it over a weekend then the first start has no problems. 3. Last weekend we replaced the Fuel filter and the first few starts there was significantly less problems starting but after 5 starts its back to doing it again.
I checked and the fuel pump does work, I've tried changing the fuel filter ( #2 above), and put sea foam into the gas tank hoping to clean out any gunk in the lines somewhere. It does turn on and when it does it runs great so i know its not having electrical problems as well as the alternator is charging like normal.
Im about to take it in for an oil change and see if that does anything, and I'm praying its not a clog in the Catylitic converter.
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This is a great little truck we only use occasionally. It has 145,000 miles and runs great, but the a/c temperature is very sporadic, and this week it is 100 degrees! One day it will work fine, and the next day it will only blow hot air. Sometimes the air starts out cold, but after 5 min of driving, it turns hot. I have had the freon checked and my mechanic said part of the compressor (forget what he called it) was probably getting stuck at times, and he would have to pull it all out and possibly replace...
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1992 Ford Explorer XLT 4wd 4.0L (California vehicle) runs good for about 15 minutes, then suddenly starts 'chugging,' loses power, and check engine light comes on. After sitting overnight, it will again run good for about 15 minutes, then repeats the problem.
This problem began AFTER smog check test failed (it ran smoothly all the time before) and after, as was recommended to me, I replaced the 02 sensor. (Failure of smog check, it turns out, was more likely because, unknown, a 10" piece of exhaust pipe was missing, so Catalytic Converter was not connected to the tailpipe).
I had a mechanic scope the Explorer but he could not determine a specific failure from the codes, although he suggested possibly it's the missing 'Octane Adjust Shorting Bar,' or maybe the 'crank position sensor' is bad, but he could not give a diagnosis.
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have an 2009 Toyota Corolla 62K miles. If the car sits out 8 hours or more in VERY COLD (zero degrees) weather makes a 1-2 second clashing/sparking noise the split second after turning the ignition on but before engine starts. I tried to attach video/audio. The car starts and runs fine. isn't a ticking or knocking or tapping noise assoc. with bad engine. It isn't squealing noise assoc. w/ serpentine belt. I've been waiting for it to get cold enough to leave overnight at Toyota dealer. I keep wondering if it isn't related to the botched oil changed at the Toyota dealer a couple yrs ago when they forgot the oil & I ran car about 30-60 seconds. At the time, they said all was okay and did compression test (Cyl 1=178psi, #2=175 #3=180 #4=178) all within the normal specs 145-189. I got a 2nd opinion at another Toyota dealer at time who removed valve cover and inspected cam caps and scoped cylinder walls and said all was okay and compression good. No mechanical problems- uses no oil, check engine light not on, etc. What noise is and why just when very cold and car sits out long time?
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The truck is a 4WD with the 4.8L V8, has 134k problem free miles. While pulling a camper trailer the Service Engine Soon light came on and was blinking. After removing the camper the light went away. Now the light has returned and blinks occasionally. The light is not the larger issue tho. When the engine is cold it is difficult to start and I have to hold the accelerator to the floorboard to keep it running or rather chugging but only on days when ambient temps are below 50ish. As the motor warms it chugs less and eventually smooths out. Once the engine has warmed up it runs as if there is no kind of problem. The service engine light stays on but does not blink. This all began suddenly tho there might have been a problem before but we recently moved to the Chicago area from the Phoenix area. A stop at the local auto parts store for a code read said the fuel pressure sensor is bad tho it seems there is something more than that going on. With a Chicago winter coming this needs repaired!
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I posted about this back when I bought it back in Feb. and I thought the problem worked itself out but its back. When the temperature drops below 55 degrees or so, coming from the passenger side of the engine there is a chugging or knocking sound, more so when RPMs are high.
I had no issues with it all summer, but now that the temperature is dropping I noticed its back. Is this something I should worry about? What could be causing this? I had the same engine in my 07 and it never did this.
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My Corolla started making a new noise recently. It only makes this noise when I'm moving/giving the car gas. The noise sounds like the noise from those safety strips on the side of the interstate but not quite as loud coming definitely from the front end, possibly isolated to the driver side. The faster I go the more apparent the noise is. It's not really a click noise it's more of a dull sound. It occurs at low speeds and high speeds, but not when idling. It's almost as though the engine is running hard but I'm not convinced it's originating from the engine.
The engine idles normally and I don't think there is anything wrong with the bearings or CV joints as I have replaced the left CV joint/axle and the right front bearing recently.
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Our 2002 Camry is in very good condition with ~75k miles. The other day we went to start the car up and it wouldn't turn over. The car would turn a couple of times and then start clicking. We jumped the car and I hopped in to take it to our local mechanic. I instantly noticed during the entire trip to the mechanic that the idle was very slow and chugging. Like it wanted to die anytime I was stopped.
I got to the mechanic and pulled in the lot. The car died. However, I was able to start it up again with no issues. A day later I get a call from the mechanic telling me that they had no issues starting the car whatsoever. They said the battery was a little weak so they replaced it (it was the original battery). I was also told that I might consider changing the spark plugs in the near future. Otherwise they said the car was running great.
After getting the car home I am once again noticing the low/chugging idle. It doesn't seem anywhere near as bad as before, but it is there sometimes.
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My 1998 Toyota Corolla has 180 K miles. Two days ago I was putting the pedal down to get to work on time and it bucked, began chugging like a motorcycle and the check engine light (which was already on because of an emissions issue) began to flash. A mechanic looked at it and saw that cylinder 3 wasn't sparking. He changed the plugs and wires but the engine was still chugging, especially when idling. The mechanic decided it was a stuck or burnt valve because he said he could hear/feel a lack of compression in the cylinder. I'm looking for a second opinion on the issue, and a first opinion on the mechanic!
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I've got a 99 1.8t, and every once in awhile when the turbo starts spooling I hear a fluttering, not sure how to describe it. sort of like when your valves run low on oil and you can hear em tick? Like something is fluttering in the turbo when its spooling, instead of just a steady sucking of air.
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Every once in a while, turbo will not work. If I pull over a do a restart, it will work every time. It happened once about a year ago and now it seems to happen once every 5 starts. Bad wastegate? Covered under warranty?
2012 with 87k
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My 94 850 turbo wagon starts rough and idles very high. the rpms dont come down. After turning car off, wont restart again unless I let in sit for a while.
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3.0, SOHC engine...car started for coolant system leak check. Idle jumped to. 3000 RPMs. Shut car off...disconnected throttle cable from throttle body. Started car again, engine ran normally, no coolant leak found. Reconnected accelertor cable to throttle body. Tried starting car again, started rough then died after a few seconds. Changed fuel filter...disconnected fuel line to fuel rail and lots of comes out. MFI solenoid inside car clicks several times after engine dies. Engine tries to run, but wont, after it dies. ECU bad? Other issue?
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Have a 93 Bronco, 5.0. replaced battery, IAV and had a complete tune-up. Now starts great, runs fine until it gets warm, than in about 5 - 10 minutes the idle starts to fluctuate. A little at first but eventually between 1000 to 300 rpm and will stall if you don't give it some gas. Turn it off, restart, starts fine and runs OK again for a while.
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Mechanics say they don’t know what wrong… I had some transmission work done on my truck – mostly an leak and replacing the harness – and ever since then after it rains or if we have a heavy dew my truck does the following:
Driving from O to 49 miles an hour truck is fine, as soon as I hit 50 the truck starts surging and you can see the tachometer jumping from 2000 RPM to 2500 RPMs. I drive around 17 miles to work where my truck will sit for seven hours. On the way home the truck is fine. I find this to be more of a problem when the truck has sat for a day or two over the weekend without driving it. Sometimes the “check engine” light will come on, sometimes not.
I have taken it to two different places and neither one says they can find anything wrong with the truck. I have driven this truck for over 11 years and know it very well. There is something wrong, but what? 1993 Chevy Silverado 3500 Diesel....
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So I brought the Sonata home and she sat in the garage for 5 days as I was traveling. Then when I got back, I was so eager to take her for a drive. At this point she only had 72 miles on the Odometer. When I started her up, I thought the engine sounded rougher and louder than usual. My other car is a Turbo Diesel and that does not make this loud a clatter. After a few minutes of idling and driving, the engine quietened down quite a bit.
Video of the sound at cold start up.
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