Toyota :: 1993 - Installing Thermostat On Custom Built Coolant System?
Aug 13, 2011
I purchased my 1993 Toyota from someone who modded a bunch of stuff in the engine, including putting in a header, taking out the Catalytic convertor, removing the A/C compressor and moving/rewelding different pipes (including the cooling system pipes).
Anyway, I've noticed that it's heater has never worked, and I just figured I needed to replace the thermostat. In the stock engine, you need to drain the coolant system, and then remove the bottom radiator hose. I did that, and discovered that when he welded the new coolant pipes on, he failed to put in mounts for a thermostat, and there was no thermostat there. Is this fixable at all, or am I stuck without a thermostat (and heating in the winter?)
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I am looking to install a rear view mirror gps system with built in backup camera on my 2011 Corolla S. I have been searching for various different types and so far I have found these two links which look to be suitable.
will the wireless camera work good or is it better to get a wired one? Sounds like the gps system included maps for Canada & US. I am not sure if the camera will fit properly on this car or will it stick out. Also whether running a wire from the mirror to the camera will be challenging.
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After buying and installing the low temp thermostat, fan switch and green top sensor, I'm still encountering boiling in the line and a temp of 3/4 of the way when at idle. My coolant mixture is about 70/30 and unfortunately I had to use a temporary fix of the prestone universal coolant mix due to the dealer being closed and I didn't want to add more water
What would be the disadvantages of running straight g12 coolant? My issue is boiling and I figure the more coolant and less water, the less chance of boiling to occur.
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I been wondering if I put light weight 17-inch rims on my car with low profile tires will that destroy my mpg?
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I recently had a new engine and radiator installed in my 1993 toyota pickup. I checked the coolant and oil every day since the install, then drove it 250 miles or so without checking the coolant, and found that all the coolant was gone from the reserve tank, and there was a sludge at the bottom. I don't see any leaks, and the thermometer indicator was normal.
I don't understand where the coolant could have gone, given that it's a totally new motor and new radiator, new hoses. I'm worried about the competence of my mechanic, not noticing a dirty coolant reservoir and maybe messing something else up.
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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I changed the radiator and thermostat, changed the coolant, and my fans work. however, whenever i take the car for a short drive, the temp goes up. I stop the car and shut it off, it steams near th coolant tank. it sounds like its almost boiling..
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I am getting a coolant overheating fault! No visible leaks. I don't wanna believe my radiator is bad ($$$$) So I wanna try the cheap stuff first.
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02 Jetta 2.0L that I changed the thermostat. o-ring, and cover on when I first got the car about a year and a half ago.
I see dry g12 coming out from behind the cover and my coolant bulb had dipped quite a bit in recent weeks requiring a refill. What is most likely the problem here in such a short period of time? I've only put like 10k miles on the car in that period. O-ring couldn't have seated wrong because wouldn't the problem have been apparent immediately back when I did the job? Maybe I need to re-torque the cover? Cracked cover?
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I have a coolant leak coming from I am assuming the thermostat housing or thermostat. My question is, is there a gasket behind this that I am assuming is bad or is the thermostat bad.
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2002 Camry 4 cyclinder. P0128 code - replaced the thermostat and coolant. P0128 code is now locked in. Lifetd the battery cable, but it is still there when I start the engine - or - it comes comes back immediately when I start the engine. Coolant temperature looks normal on the dashboard gage when I drive the car. What should I do now?
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I have a 95 skylark 4 cylinder, i have what appears to be a coolant leak from the thermostat housing and i also have coolant mixing with my oil. Can the leak from the housing cause the coolant to mix with the oil? If not what else could be the issue?
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If I don't replace it, will it cause any trouble?
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I'm getting a P0128 thermostat coolant below temp. Coolant level checks out. Temp sensor seems to work. It climbs to 160 and holds steady. I simultaneously had a thermometer in the top of the radiator. It went from 86 to 160 with with jump from 86 to 135 which corresponded to the temp sensor reading of 135.
I am assuming this is the thermostat opening. So, the level is right. The sensor is working and the thermostat appears to open and close. Why its throwing a code?
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1995 Ford Van E150. So I've been trying to solve my overheating problem for months now. One morning I walked out of my house and all of my coolants was on the street. I could not completely detect the source of the leak after running more coolant through it. I also checked the dip stick and coolant on the ground for any sign of oil/coolant mixing. I started by replacing the thermostat.
I did a more thorough inspection and found a crack at the bottom of the radiator that I replaced less than two years ago. I replaced the radiator again and while I had the belt, intake and fan disassembled I switched out the water pump as well. The old water pump was gunked and the gasket was almost completely worn off. The van is still overheating and spitting out coolant at a much higher rate. I'm guessing because of the new water pump. A friend said it could be the intake manifold because of where the steam was coming from the motor.
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Bought a 04 GLI had the bad engine, had the engine installed sat at the shop for nearly a year. Towed car to my house to finish it and now I am running into their lack of knowledge and fixing their crap. Now the current issue...On the thermostat housing, a nipple that comes off the side has nothing connected and leaking coolant.
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I'm about to replace my IPR and my thermostat, and just watched a video saying after replacing the thermostat you need to bleed the air out of the system to get rid of air pockets so you don't overheat the engine. Is this true and if so how do you do it? Also, how much coolant do I need to drain before taking off the upper radiator hose?
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2009 Ford Explorer, 6 cyl, 4.0L, 74K. Read code w/scanner - "P0128 - Coolant Temp below thermostat regulating temperature". Assuming this is pretty straight forward but was wondering what the most likely culprit is (?thermostat?). Ironically, this code popped about a week ago, I cleared it and actually got my inspection sticker earlier today and then later in the day, the CEL came on again and once again, the P0128 code. The coolant level is perfect so I know there aren't any leaks.
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Temperature gauge quit working after changing the thermostat and coolant.
With the engine off, I disconnected the single wire from the temperature sending unit and switched on the ignition without starting engine. The gauge pointer stayed in at the Cold mark. Using a Jumper wire, I grounded the sending unit wire and the needle on the gauge went to the Hot mark.
I quickly turned off the ignition, and replaced the sending unit with a SW-2328 (F1SZ-10884-A) Temp Sender. Warmed up the engine, but still no reading on the dash gauge.
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If you have a coolant leak at the y hose for the intake manifold and the thermostat, make sure you replace the upper radiator hose as well as the y hose.
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I replaced the fan clutch and thermostat on my 1999 5.4. Do I need to "burp" the system or anything?
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