My Dad has a 1992 Toyota Pick-up with a 22RE engine it is a 2 wheel drive automatic. The truck stopped running while idling, he did code tests on it and they came up clear. He can get it to run on propane but not on gas. He did change all the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, and spark plug wires.
View 13 RepliesI have a 92 ranger 6cyl 4L. The truck stopped running while driving then kicked on again, it did this several times over about 20 minutes then finally died and now I can't get it started. I recently replaced the fuel pump and filter and spark plugs and wires. I get spark if I ground the plug and some gas will pour out of the fuel pressure test valve when I stick a screws driver in. When I check engine codes I get an all pass. Truck will turn over and sometimes run for 2 or 3 seconds but that is it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1992 Toyota Camry EL that has been running fine - up until about 3 weeks ago. It has developed a problem of stalling when idling, sometimes, not always. My mechanic has replaced the vacuum hose to the idle air control after finding it was cracked. It kept on stalling after that. Then he replaced the exhaust gas recycling valve assembly, but it still will stall at times. I have noticed that sometimes the engine will rev way up then way down while I'm sitting at a stop light. This morning it stalled while I backed out of a parking spot. Only 95K miles on this car, and I would like to keep it going if possible.
View 2 RepliesDrove the truck one week ago today and it ran perfectly fine. Drove it last night for about 20 minutes - ran fine. Drove it again today just 1 minute up the road - ran fine. Started it again this evening and drove it 5 minutes down the road - ran fine. Stopped and put gas in it - now it's not fine. After putting gas in it it refused to start but will turn over. Put a booster pack on it and it will start but would only stay running with the gas pedal pushed all the way to the floor, as soon as you took it off it dies. Now it will not stay running even with the gas pushed all the way down.
View 5 RepliesMy truck is leaking transmission fluid. I know you are going to tell me that i need new seals but, i have taken this truck to many mechanics and they assure me that its not the problem. It is leaking out the vent. There are two holes in the transfer case that we aren't sure if they are plugs but we plugged em anyway just to see what would happen and its still leaking so...not a fix. Apparently this is a rare transfer case and even rarer information to be found bcuz this model was only made for two years and because they were pretty reliable finding people that actually worked on them is even harder. Should I just buy a new transfer case or is there a way to fix this?
View 2 Repliesok,up to yesterday, my wife's car started and ran fine. but we had not driven it in about 3weeks, and it was on empty. well, my kids would listen to the radio and, i think, starting it while we were at work. anyway, they ran it out of gas. so put gas in it, 3gallons, turned the key on and off a couple of times to get a good prime. started it up, died, i figured not enough fuel, yet tried again. started, but started spitting and sputtering and idling really ruff, had to hold to the floor to keep it running. removed the maf. it started and did the same. finally, i held down the gas and brake at the same time, took off to the store, got gas, but it died half way there. got it to the pump, put more gas thinking that's the problem. nope, the same. got it home, but when i let off the gas, it idles like it's not getting fuel and dies. so, any clue what it is? remember, 3 weeks ago it ran fine.
View 1 RepliesMy 94 truck (Toyota 6 cylinder 3VZ engine) is currently idling at ~2000 when I first start the engine. After warming up or driving for a substantial amount of time, this eventually drops to ~1000-1100. I had the throttle body removed and cleaned (twice). This stopped some up-and-down revving which was happening, but not the high idling. This is a relatively recent development, and I've gone to 3 mechanics AND the dealer, all of whom say, 'it's fine'. They say it should run 'a little higher when it's cold'.
I think some of these assessments were based on the simple lack of engine error messages (no codes from the computer = no problem). I admit that I'm no expert, but I've had the truck for a decade; I know what's 'fine' and what's not. The usual idle was ~800 (in agreement with specs) and I've driven this truck in temps down to -30F. It has never idled this high before. Since it gets close to normal RPMs after warming up, I don't want to turn the idle adjustment down. I moved from a very cold, very dry climate at 6000 ft to a very wet, moderately cold climate at sea level - is there some other adjustment I need to make? Or is it normal for this engine to run so differently in these two climates? I'm at the end of my rope since no one thinks it's a problem except me.
I was driving along as happy as could be, and suddenly lost power. 2000-2001 Ranger, 5 speed. After I got it home, I plugged in a charger, tried jumping it and all. I was getting a few turnovers, now I only get a click. Wipers, Lights and fans all work so there is some power at least.
I finally found my Ohm Multimeter and checked the current from battery to power box.
battery + to - 12.96
battery - to power - 0.00
battery - to power + 12.96
battery + to power - 0.00
battery + to power + 0.00
Now that just seems insanely odd to me.
I have a 2003 Ex 6.0 psd, 155k miles, and was on my way to work to a site 40 miles from nowhere. I was about 10 miles from my destination cruising around 65 when the Ex started losing power. I would say within a couple of miles power was gone and i had no choice but to pull over. I popped the hood, got out had a look around and saw no leaks or anything out of the ordinary. Let it sit for a few minutes and tried to restart it to no avail. There was no check eng light or any signs something was wrong.
I just so happened to have my OBD scanner with me and plugged it in and read for any extra codes. Three popped up on the screen: P0232, P0263, and P0278.
P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary (Feedback) Circuit High Voltage,
P0263 is described as a cylinder number 1 contribution/balance. In essence, this code is stating that the number one cylinder in the firing order is experiencing a fuel-related problem.
P0278 same as above for cyl 6.
Right away i thought the fuel/lift pump took a dump on me and was causing the fuel issues in the two cylinders.
I drive a 1992 Nissan Primera wagon 2.0 slx, automatic transmission. Generally the car has been the picture of reliablility. Just lately it "chugs," especially evident when I'm at low speed of idling. This morning, as I idled for few minutes, the rpm's fluctuated between 1000 and 2000 rpms, as if I was depressing the accelerator.
View 1 Replies1992 Chevy Cavalier, about 120,000 miles. A few months ago my car has started to rumble and vibrate while idling in drive. It only occurs while I'm in drive and completely stopped. If I change to neutral or park, it immediately goes away. Also, if I'm in drive, keep my foot on the brake and give it a little gas, the vibration goes away. I've changed the spark plugs, had the throttle body cleaned (not very thoroughly) and my mechanic said my engine mounts look fine and to not worry too much about it. Is this a problem I can ignore as an inconvenience or should I put more effort into getting this fixed?
View 2 RepliesAs I was driving, my break light came on and my ABS light came on. Also, the temp gauge stopped registering and my AC stopped blowing cold air. Is this a familiar problem or do i have a legit electrical problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1992 GMC step side, short bed, 350 engine, Sierra, auto trans, factory air, factory exhaust, power steering.......
Three years ago the fuel pump went out. I have to work alone so I lowered the tank after draining and went through a lot of agony with floor jacks, supports, etc. but finally got the job done in 3 days.
The replacement was a Bosch fuel pump.
It went out today while I was at Sams stores. I got a pull home and it is in my driveway.
It started up once I got it home, but that is what it did the last time it went out, 3 years ago.
Question...should I check the ground first to make sure it is not getting intermittant ground or just do the job with a new pump?
Also, can I do this job by raising or sliding the bed after I unbolt it? I have heard war stories but no actual person that has done it.
Also, when moving the bed either up or sliding it back, isn't there a concern about wires that go to the tail lights?
I cannot afford the 500 dollar shop fee to have it towed and fixed.
My 92 f150 has been running rough at around 30 to 40 mph and around 60 and 70. It has a 5.9 v8. I have recently replaced the plugs, plug wires, dis cap, and fuel filter without it solving this problem at all. Someone said this could be my transmission or throttle body.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1992 Cadillac DeVille with 25,000 miles on it. It’s never been driven in the winter and garaged when not being driven.Last year, it was running rough, so I took it to the dealer. They changed the spark plugs and wires. There seemed to be some improvement after that. After about 500 miles, it started to rn rough again. I returned to the dealer who changed the spark plugs again and replaced two of the fuel injectors. Still no improvement. A few hundred miles later, I took it to a local mechanic. He replaced four more fuel injectors and there seemed to be some improvement.After another few hundred miles, the engine started to run rough again, the fuel dropped down from about 20 mpg to 10 mpg, and it stalls at traffic stops or if the brake is applied. After 30 minutes of idling it will use 5 gallons of gas. There are no strange odors or visible leakage.
View 2 RepliesI have a 92 chevy truck with a 350 engine that came out of a 93 chevy my problem is my module in the distributor keeps going bad when i spoke with the previous owner of the motor he told me that he had the same problem and advised me to change the distributor. So I took my distributor out of the original motor and put in but the problem still exist, also I have noticed that I have nearly twice the exhaust coming from the drivers side tail pipe as I do the passengers side.
View 1 RepliesHave a '92 Olds Cutlass Ciera 6 cyl 3300 engine. After 20-30 mins of driving it dies when I have to stop for a light. Depressing the brake kills the engine. Starts right up after but as soon as I put it in drive, it dies. If the car sits for 20 mins or so after problem begins it's okay. If I get to an intersection and have to stop, I put it in neutral. When I have to go again I rev the engine, let it die down some and then put it in drive (hard on the car, I know, but it's only way to get going again. Once I'm moving, I can accelerate and it's okay. What is wrong with my car?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 GMC Canyon pickup with ~43,000 miles. This January 2012 it started shuddering while stopped or idling, shaking down from approximately 900RPMs to 5-600RPMs. It felt like it would shut down, but then jumped back up to normal. I had the fuel system cleaned out, which included a chemical clean of the throttle body. It ran fine for a few weeks but then came back with a vengeance, now also shuddering while accelerating on the freeway. After the check engine light came on (and then went off), I brought it to the dealership and they told me it was definitely something internal to the engine but couldn't tell me what.
View 6 Replies1992 Volvo 240 ... I'm having car jerking problem after running for about 20 minutes at speed between 90 -110 kph. Car stabilizes again when the speed comes back to 90kph. There is no problem initially when running beyond 120kph when the engine first started up. The problem only starts after a short while.
View 1 Replies1992 Honda Civic Starts fine but kills as soon as you release the key. Hold the key in the position with the starter motor running and it keeps running. In the old days we would replace the resistor on the firewall. Today?
View 3 RepliesThey are about my F250. It is a 92 with 186000 miles. I love this truck.
After a long trip, maybe 1.5 hours, the truck will shudder while I let out the clutch in first gear. This only occurs in first, and it doesn't happen after the truck sits for a bit, just after driving.
I have an opportunity for a good deal on a F150. It is a 2001 with 181,000 miles for $4000. Is it worth updating for the new technology even if there is the same old high mileage issue?