Toyota :: 1992 - Died While Driving Down Freeway
Jul 6, 2011
I have a 1992 Toyota MR2 and the other day I was driving home on the freeway. I started to hear this slight ticking noise from the engine compartment. I let off the gas and the noise stopped. I decided to pull over at the next exit but when I steeped on the gas again the engine died. No idiot lights on or gauges going wild that I remember seeing.
Now it won't even attempt to start. When I tried to roll start it, (it's a manual transmission) the wheels were locked up and actually tried rolling backward. When the car died on the freeway it just rolled to a stop so I know the tires worked fine when it died. What this might be? By the way, it's a non-turbo, 2.2 liter.
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I have a 92 ranger 6cyl 4L. The truck stopped running while driving then kicked on again, it did this several times over about 20 minutes then finally died and now I can't get it started. I recently replaced the fuel pump and filter and spark plugs and wires. I get spark if I ground the plug and some gas will pour out of the fuel pressure test valve when I stick a screws driver in. When I check engine codes I get an all pass. Truck will turn over and sometimes run for 2 or 3 seconds but that is it.
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I have a 1999 Toyota Camry 2.2 4cyl with 220K+ miles.
I was driving on the freeway when I heard a loud "POP" and rat-tat-tat cracking sound from my engine. I managed to pull over on the road where the car rolled to a stop. I tried to start up the car and the starter cranked, but the engine wouldn't start.
I thought it might be a broken timing belt since a similar situation happened to a family member (who was driving another Camry) a couple of years ago, and we were able to fix the car by changing the worn down timing belt. So today I spent all day taking things apart and finally got to the timing belt, but to my surprise, the belt looks completely fine.
I fear I might've actually blown the engine but don't know how to diagnose this.
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I have a 96 Rav4. When I am driving on the freeway it will get stuck at 3000 RPMs for a good 20 miles. It doesn't do it all the time, but it does it a lot. The car will only be going 50 mph, but its stuck at high RPMs. The mechanic has no idea what is going on.
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I have 2002 camry 4 cylinders and has 175,000 miles. I was driving on the freeway and suddenly I felt a jerky motion and check engine light came on. When I stopped at light the car began to vibrate and when started driving at low speeds it got me home. Admittedly I had put lot of hard miles on the car in past 6 months and I was lazy in getting oil changed in time. It might have been 7000 miles since oil chg. I took the car to local oil change place they did not mention anything about engine but they said my transmission oil was dark and burnt. They said I should flush and replace. I agreed and tech said he had to do second flush as oil was still dark. After second flush, he said its little bit better.
I was hoping this would solve my problem but unfortunately no. Car was still vibrating and when i drove at slow speed it was driving but as soon as I tried to accelerate the car lost power. Check engine light has been on since the incident at freeway, but now check oil light and battery sign came on. The power steering lost power. I had to park the car and restarted, as long as I drove very slowly it would drive but if I tried to accelerate where the rpm went from 1 or to next level car would loose power with warning lights on. I had recently replaced fuel pump, filter and any repair which was suggested to me. Admittedly I have not done timing chain or belt.
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My 1992 one ton Toyota pickup with the V6 died on my several times Thursday morning driving to work. The first time it restarted but made a bad noise on the highway. I pulled over the next time and it took a while to restart and had some white smelly exhaust smoke. It died a couple more times before I got to work. My mechanic told me there are some bad noises coming from the timing belt area and the harmonic balancer is bad but those shouldn't cause the dying. It has 278k miles on it and I'd love to hit 300k.
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5 speed stick shift, first thing in the morning no problem, after driving a while it shakes in reverse and does not want to move, going forward is no problem, clutch and cv joints were replaced 4 years ago, 170k miles.
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I have a F150 2001 6cyl. Other day was doing 75 on freeway and lost all power. I replaced fuel filter, and pump is humming good (was replaced 4 years ago) checked the Inertia Switch and checked all relays, but truck still wont fire. I checked spark first and that's good.
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My 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon died in the middle of the freeway last night without any warning...I was driving it home after purchasing it from a private seller who is completely ignoring me now (of course). The car ran fine on the test drive and fine for the 40 or 50 miles on the way back home and then suddenly stepping on the gas did nothing and I had to get off the road immediately. I'm 8 months pregnant so needless to say, I was extremely freaked out.
Anyways, I had it towed home. Today I went out and started it and it was a little bit hesitant but it started. The RPMs were bouncing around below 1000 and the car sounded like it wanted to stall but didn't.
I read online to start it and turn the AC on see what the RPMs do and that this can diagnose an idle control valve that needs replacing. I went out and started the car again, blasted the AC and now the RPMs were staying steady at 1000 and the car no longer sounded like it was about to stall. The RPMs did shoot up passed 2000 once shortly after turning the AC on. I'm assuming this must mean that the idle control valve needs to be replaced.
Someone else had posted about their car (same model/year as mine) would die unexpectedly and in their case it turned out to be the mass air flow sensor. I am really wondering about the fuel pump, fuel pump sensor / relay.
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My master warnIng lIght came on In my car.I took my car into Hooman Toyota in Long Beach, California. They did a diagnostic test and performed their MPI WORLD CLASS INSPECTION. While I was getting it tested they said the invert water pump was under recall. No biggie. Nothing was found in the diagnostic and the recall was fixed.
Two days later I took my car to Palms Springs. While I was driving out there the master warning light came on. I started to lose power but it seemed like the computer would reset and it would be ok for about 15 minutes. I even lost power in the engine. I finally made it out there and figured it just needed to rest. 6 hours later I took off for home. 10 minutes into it the lights on the dashboard came on. The car lost all power and I was stranded off the freeway. My battery was down to 1 bar. I left it there overnight and had it towed to the nearest Toyota dealer. They said I need a new battery and that theirs bad gas. They wanted to replace the fuel tank. I replaced the battery.
The next day they said that wasn't it and was going to continue searching. I ended up towing it to my mechanic. He said there was no coolant and the headers are blown. He said I was better off getting a new engine. Let me take you back two days when that WORLD CLASS MPI INSPECTION was done. There was an 8 page report specifying what was passed on the inspection. The battery, coolant levels along with other fluids passed. Not to mention hoses and clamps and about 30 other things. I feel something was missed in that WORLD CLASS INSPECTION. I feel they are responsible for the car ending up the way it was.
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I have a 1992 Ranger with 2.3L that suddenly lost power on freeway and stopped and couldn't restart. Towed it to Seattle, WA and need Ford Ranger 2.3L engine mechanic to double check the timing since new belt installed to make sure it was done right before cover and rest of engine reinstalled.
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Picked up another 92 extended! Seller's mechanic thought ECM died. When you connect the battery, the fuel pump runs, steady. 167K, same as my DD van! Plans are to pull the trans and swap tires first, and eventually pull the motor and freshen the seals and gaskets, and a timing chain. I would like to have it run first though. I'll take pics after it's hauled home.
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I purchased a 1992 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer edition two weeks ago from a private dealer. Last week I went to start the car, and it started, but then turned off almost immediately. I dismissed it at the time saying I did not turn the key long enough or far enough because when I tried it again, it started.
However, this morning (05/06/14) it turned itself off again. It was on for about a second or two before it died. I started it again and pumped the gas. It started for me but it sounded rough like it might die again.
I am not sure how to fix this. The previous owner did not mention that there was any problem. I am thinking that I'll either need to replace the battery or the spark plugs.
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I have a 92 Deville. I drove a pretty good distance today and on the way home stopped at the store and left the car on in the parking lot. I got in and the engine died as I tried to pull out of the lot. When I try to start the car all the lights come on but nothing happens, no clicks or anything. Lights don't even go dim. Could this be the alternator? I know that the starter suddenly dying won't cut off the engine like that. Everything seemed fine before idk what gave out?
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My '96 Toyota Corolla has difficulty going beyond 45 mph on the freeway, especially when the temperature gets down to zero. Normally the car shifts into 3rd gear at 45 mph. Instead it has excessive engine noise. I just keep my foot on the gas, and it goes past 50 mph, but with considerable effort. It sounds like I have the car in 2nd gear when driving at 50 mph. Eventually it "lets go" and shifts to 3rd. There is no CEL on, fuel filter replaced, transmission flushed, spark plugs checked last fall. From other issues I've read, I'm guessing it might be a bad thermostat? The car heats fine. Gas mileage is more than normal. No gas smells when I park. Once the engine warms up, I have no problems with the gears shifting. I had this problem a few years ago. Don't know what my mechanic did to fix it. My budget is pretty tight right now, so if I can fix it myself, I'd really like to do so.
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I have a 1989 BMW 635csi. Usually runs great. Driving down the freeway yesterday, the car started to run rough and the yellow ABS light came on. I slowed, the car ran smoothly, but then the ABS light would come on. By accelerating or decelerating, the light would go off. But in stop & go traffic, the engine ran very roughly and I smelled unburnt or poorly burnt exhaust. Took it to the BMW place today. Runs great. They cannot duplicate the problem.
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I drive a 2002 Toyota Camry. Mostly runs great! If I drive on the freeway at 60-70 mph for 30-45 minutes, when I get off on surface streets the engine starts to die. I have to keep one foot on the brake and one foot on the accelerator to keep the engine >1000rpm. When I park at my destination and park the car for 1-2 hours, everything is fine when I start up again. Happens repeatedly - not always, maybe 95% of the time. Two mechanics can't figure it out and are unable to reproduce the problem after they drive the car on the freeway.
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CAR: 2013 VW GTI
MILES: 645 (I HAVEN'T EVEN BROKEN IT IN YET AND I STILL DRIVE IT UNDER 3)
STORY: As I was driving on the freeway, I tried to press down on the clutch to change gears (from forth to fifth), but my clutch wouldn't move at all; it was like stepping on a rock. So my clutch wasn't engaging and I couldn't do anything, but I managed to pulled off the freeway and I parked my car in the first neighborhood that I saw. By the time I had parked my car, my clutch was smoking profusely. I called VW Road Side and had my car towed to the dealership. They call me the next day to tell me that my clutch was completely burnt out, but there's no signs of harsh driving. They stated that it might be a defect (loose screw, bearing, etc).
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I have a 2002 4Runner that has recently developed a vibration at freeway speeds. I purchased new tires about two months before the vibration started. I have been back to the place where I bought my tires and the assure me that they are balanced.
I have been dealing with this problem for the past couple of months and have been getting nowhere. When I took my 4Runner into the dealership to get the lower ball joint replaced I spoke with the service folks about the vibration problem and all I got in response was "we've never heard of that before".
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I was driving on the freeway in houston yesterday and it was about 30 degrees. The low temperature light was on... Does it make a difference when it is cold? Why would there be a light to tell u that it is cold outside?
Anyways as I was driving on the freeway the red triangle with an exclamation mark came on and disappeared. Then a minute later it went on again and on the navi screen shows high coolant temperature symbol on it. But then it would turn off right away too so is this normal because I was kind of slowing down on the freeway and the book did say something but I don't think it was an excessive speed or anything.
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My tpms light came on tonight after 15 minutes of freeway driving. I checked the pressure in all 4 tires, and they were all right about 36 lbs. The door jamb tire info says 33 lbs cold, so this seems about right to me. why the tpms light might have come on? Is the spare tire hooked up to the tpms system? My Passat is only 1 month old, so I'm surprised the light came on.
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