Toyota :: 1990 - Rear Brake Drums Overheating
Nov 10, 2015
Brake rear drums overheating on My LC 80 series '90 GX model has been having reoccurring left side rear overheating after driving for 2-3 hours in traffic. It has been worked on many times since the lastest attempt both sides heated to about 100-110+F on the rim with the right one the hotter. The wheel cylinders have been replaced, the brake shoes, bearings and seals on the left side in the hub with the springs, self adjuster and cable in the drum, the front disc pads also. There has been some engineering: welding on the lh rear axle diff tube which was done. The problem stressed out the last mechanic. He wants to replace the master cylinder next. Remove self-adjuster mechanisms is it a possible fix?
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Gen 5.5 (2006 LE (57K miles), Rear brake drums and parking brake.
I want to get my parking brake lubricated and rear drums cleaned and adjusted. Is is difficult to lubricate the parking brake?
I plan on getting this done with a Mobile One oil change at a local garage.
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My c is about 5 12 months old now, and the rear brake drums are already covered in rust.
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I have A 97 F-150 4X4 with rear drums. I noticed the brakes felt like they weren't releasing right away after i let of the brake pedal. i took drums off and noticed on the left rear the front shoe moved normal but the rear shoe didn't move at all. on the right side front shoe moves normal rear shoe very very slow, and i could see rear shoe was worn way more than front. So I replaced on both rear the shoes, all the hardware, springs, wheel cylinders and brake line from cylinders to the proportioning valve.bleed the brakes, and adjusted the drag on the drums. Now i drive it, test it out, feels like the same issue is going on. feels like im driving with the brake on, and right rear gets really hot. Did i miss something? not do something right?
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I have a 1990 Toyota pickup. I've been told to always put the brake on when I park. The brake is a hand lever under the dash that I pull out and then to release, I push a button, pull a little and then push. Yesterday I got into the truck and went to release the brake and it was stuck. I had my foot on the brake, and it was in 1st which isn't out of the norm for how I start the truck. I did notice that the handle seemed loose. I eventually got it back in after starting the truck again and putting it into first and trying to pull forward with the brake on. I'm concerned that if I use it again it will stick again and not go back in! What has happened!?
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I recently put new wheels on my 2012 (more open spoke than stock ones), very soon started to notice the brake drums getting rusty. Is there anything I can do to 1) get rid of that and 2) stop it from happening? It's really killing the look of the new wheels. (The wheels themselves are spotted right now from sprinklers this morning.)
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Early 90's Toyota Corolla.
I've been hearing this sound the past couple weeks coming from the rear of the car. Not related to the rpm, only occurs if the car is moving slowly -- like when I'm driving in a parking lot, looking for a space. Occurs when turning, even slightly, but not when going dead-straight. It it intermittant, seems to occur more often on hot afternoons, never heard it all winter, or even now in the morning. Not that loud, but noticeable. Sounds a little bit like a vibration, sort of a buzzing sound, but more musical than a simple buzz.
The best way I can describe it is that it sounds almost exactly like that sound they make in kids cartoon shows on Saturday morning, when something bad happens, like one of the characters get hit on the head with a baseball bat ..." waah waah waah" .. sort of like a muted trumpet or muted trombone.
Rear wheel bearings? Brakes?
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Did a complete rear brake job on a 90 Ranger including a pair of Pronto brake drums. Here are some videos of the problem.
Wheel and tire with new brake drum. Bad wobble.
Wheel and tire with brake drum - YouTube
Wheel and tire installed without brake drum. No wobble.
Wheel and tire without brake drum - YouTube
Brake drum only. Bad wobble
Brake drum - YouTube
Bare axle. No wobble.
Bare axle - YouTube
So is it safe to conclude the brake drum is bad? The other side is worse. I cleaned the axle surface so its flat. Wheels and tires are new.
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I have a 1990 4x4 ford Ranger, the little truck was purchased in early 2008 as a work truck but has ended up becoming my main vehicle, it has been a good truck for the most part but know I am having some brake issues, well have been having for some time but they seem to come and go. Usually it happens when I have to hit the brakes hard, the rear brakes lock up, I replaced the master cylinder months ago and thought that fixed it, then a month later it happened again. The last time it happened was friday, the time before that was in march 09'.
I have searched this online and found numerous try this but the original poster never comes back to say if the problem is fixed or what fixed it. My ABS light DOES NOT come on when this happens, it does function properly, it illuminates when the key is turned on then goes off. My parking brake no longer works either but I think that is from me "driving thru" the locked up rear brakes. I plan on replacign both drums and shoes within the next week but would like an option to repair the locking up issue.
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I am having a issue with my 07 accent. Had front rotors and pads replaced because they needed to be. Clicking continued. Had drums and shoes replaced last month. Clicking went away for a few weeks. Recently started back up just the other day. The clicking is only when applying the brake and it sounds like it is coming from the right rear drum. It doesn't interfere with stopping, but it s so annoying and brakes shouldn't make that kind of noise anyway.
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I took my car in about three months ago when brake indicator started squeaking in the rear. Shop told me that the drums, shoes and wheel cylinders needed replacing. After spending a few hundred replacing all those parts, the squeaking began. It's a kind of rhythmic squeak that starts towards the end of braking. the rate varies with the speed of the car, so it definitely seems to be coming from the brakes. I took it in not long after. They said they only heard a clicking noise, and that was because the brakes were mis-adjusted. They re-adjusted it. I drove it home. The squeaking is still there. This also happens a lot more when it's heated up so maybe that's why they didn't hear it in the first place.
I take the car back. They said the drum has been warped. They replace the drums. I take it home. Still squeaking a few days later, and I feel the brake pedal pulsating now. I take it back in. They say the issue is from the front brake rotors being warped. I get these replaced elsewhere with ceramic pads. Squeaking is still there.
I take it back in to the original shop because I'm certain it's from the rear. They look at it again and say the drums are warped, again, and that they'd never seen anything like it. They turn the drums. (and receipt says there will be no more warranty on the rear drums... what?)
Unsurprisingly, squeaking did not stop, not even the day after. I took it to a different shop. They spent all day on it and drove it around with me and their final word is that the reason for the squeaking is cheap parts. They recommended I call the original shop and ask for factory parts and offer to pay the difference for the parts.
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I had reason to believe that my back brakes needed replacing. While I was at it, I also attempted to swap out my front rotors, but was stopped when I was unable to remove my front brake calipers. All in all, I essentially did nothing. I checked the back brake drums and put those tires back on and then took front tires off and put them back on. I woke up today to drive to work, and and after getting about a mile down the road and going about 30-35 mph I noticed my wobble. It seemed to be coming from the front, but still hard to be sure. I know my rotors are a little warped, but I usually always experience that when braking, not when just coasting or accelerating. What to check on, or what I could have done? If it makes any difference, I am driving a 2002 Ford Taurus.
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I am trying to fix the rear drum brakes on my girlfriends 2010 corolla. So I replaced everything (everything is new) and i took it for a drive to find some SERIOUS rear vibration and clunking. I tried adjusting the rear pads and everything.
The clunking/vibration does not happen in reverse. I don't know what to do to fix this. I have tried the self adjusting e-brake in reverse method.
-clunking happen both when applying the brake pedal and the e brake while going forward
-clunking and low speeds and major vibrations at high speeds all while braking
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Ok today I just drove from my house to my parents to get an electrical panel and it drove fine. It is about 17 miles of 55mph country winding highway. I arrive there and I smell the all too familiar hot brakes smell. I get out and see a little smoke coming from the right rear brakes. I know it must be either a locking up caliper or a bad caliper bracket as these are the Akebono brakes. What are your recommendations for replacement parts?
I plan to replace the drivers side rotor as more than likely it is now warped. I plan to change pads on both sides and the drivers side rear caliper. Is there a special procedure for a vehicle with anti-lock brakes to properly bleed them? I have a caliper spreader will I screw up the accumulator for the ABS if I just spread the old caliper for removal?
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I have a 1998 f150 4x4 4.6 triton V8 regular cab, I would like to ditch the rear drum brakes in favor of disk brakes. is this an easy bolt on project? I do know that 2003 f150's had rear disk brakes and was wondering if i bought those parts if the procedure would be fairly easy. I know i would have to take a check valve out of the master cylinder to gain pressure to the rear.
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I got a 1990 Ranger 4x4 2.9l that loves to get hot only when the ac is on. The engine was rebuilt by me about 2000 miles ago and I made sure to have the block boiled in order to clean out any crap that could've been built up in the water jackets. So far the radiator, cap, thermostat, and fan clutch have been replaced. The fan shroud is intact and the condenser has a few bent fins but not many.
Here in Vegas we're looking at 100+ from 10 am - 4 pm so the ac is a must. I could be sitting at a light all day with the ac turned off and the truck doesn't have an issue. When I turn the ac on though the truck almost immediately begins to get hot. The engine drops maybe 100 rpms and the voltage gauge also drops a little. At night if I'm running the ac the voltage drops to what looks like 10 volts.
While the ac is on there is an immediate loss of power as well. In my head I'm thinking a failing compressor, water pump, and alternator are at fault. It doesn't matter if the truck is moving either, the temp still climbs.I know the rangers are funky with their cooling so when I burped the system i turned the heater on and lifted the front end about 1 ft off the ground with the cap off.
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A few months ago I did some work to my rear wheels. I replaced the drums, shoes, springs, etc., and (though this probably isn't important) the strut assemblies. All is well. Within the last few weeks, my right rear wheel has been squeaking and squealing when I brake and just today it is so bad I am afraid to drive it. It even started to squeak (just slightly) while I drive after I let off the brakes. I just pulled the drum off and it all looked fine. I did not see any metal rubbing the drum nor did I see any unusual wear on the shoes. What the noise could be?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Sienna van. My garage failed to check the brake shoes as requested, so I gouged the back brake drums and had to have them replaced. Shortly afterwards, whenever I brake, in the last 2-3 seconds before I stop there is a thumping noise from the right rear wheel. It will thump a few times, maybe 2-5 times, perhaps one thump per wheel rotation. I don't feel any pulsing in the brake pedal, and except for the noise braking seems normal. Could this be due to the shoe adjustment being too loose, so the shoe has room to pulse inside the drum?
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Don't seem to have an adjustment hole on my 2002 Tundra SR5, 2W drive. These are self adjusting brakes and, if they are, how to I go about adjusting them....simply backing up and engaging the brakes?
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No brake fluid pressure to right rear wheel cylinder on a 08 Prius. Also abs, vsc and brake system warning lights are on. All started after installing new rear brake shoes.
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I have a 2005 Highlander that had repeated rear brake noise problem after the dealership serviced the brake in May this year. The sound was like dragging or grinding. After that, I brought my car back but the noise came up every time in 3-7 days. Here is the of the service record from the dealership:
5/31/2011: initial maintenance. Rotor resurfaced, pad replaced
6/17/2011: Adjustment and lubrication.
7/13/2011: Replaced the pad.
8/20/2011: Technician could not hear the noise during drive test. Ticket withdrawn.
8/26/2011: Tighten e-brake, lubrication.
Tech told me the left and right brakes were not balanced. I recorded the noise in the following Youtube video: [URL] .....
Turn volume up and notice the last two stops. What I should say to the dealership service? I plan to take the car back in a few days.
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